I came up with the recipe for this buttercream because I saw that a Seattle cupcake shop (which shall remain unnamed, but those of you who know me will know which one I'm talking about) had a salted caramel cupcake as a recently added flavor. Now, I find their cupcakes generally too sweet, and it has to do with that powdered-sugar buttercream that I can't swallow. I'm not sure how that would fly with caramel on top of all that sugar (remember, caramel is sugar too, right?) so, curious, I set out to do my own.
I tried to do a coconut cupcake because I love coconut, but the cake came out dry, so I'm still working on it. The recipe I started with was Ina Garten's coconut cupcakes, but I'm not so big on those because I find sweetened coconut flakes kinda vile. I tried to replace it with regular coconut, but it didn't turn out quite right, so I'll have to do some more experimenting in this area (and I'm sure my family won't want to ever see another coconut cupcake, ever.) The next time, I did a standard vanilla cupcake and it tasted really nice with the caramel.
This uses a base of Swiss meringue buttercream with the caramel mixed in at the end. It is light and fluffy, but has good caramel flavor. For the caramel I added salt (I call it 'salted caramel' even though I always add salt to the caramel I make for say, leche flan). Sprinkle the cupcakes with some fleur de sel at the end and it will totally elevate the frosting to the next level.
Vanilla cupcakes (my go-to recipe is here) makes 12 cupcakes Note: I prefer to grease and flour muffin tins because I like eating cupcakes where I don't have to peel off the wrapper, but the recipe does not change if you want to use cupcake papers.
Ingredients 1-1/2 cups all purpose flour 3/4 cups sugar 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, room temperature 1/2 cup sour cream 1 large egg, room temperature 2 large egg yolks, room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 350 degrees with the oven rack in the middle position. Grease and flour a 12-cup muffin tin.
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.
Cream together the butter and sugar until light colored and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Add the egg, egg yolks and vanilla and beat at medium speed until thoroughly incorporated.
Add the sour cream and beat until incorporated.
Add the flour mixture and beat until just incorporated.
Spoon the mixture into the muffin cups and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean, about 20 minutes.
Remove and cool to room temperature on a rack, about 45 minutes. In the meantime, prepare the frosting of your choice.
Salted Caramel Buttercream makes enough to frost 12 cupcakes
Ingredients
For the caramel:
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup heavy cream
pinch sea salt
Add the sugar to a small saucepan and pour the water over it. With the heat on low, swirl the pan around until the sugar has nearly dissolved. Be careful not to let it boil -- if it starts getting too hot, remove it from the burner for a few seconds, continuing to swirl.
Once the sugar has mostly dissolved, raise the heat to medium-high and bring the mixture to a boil. Cover it immediately and leave on boil for 2 minutes.
Uncover and continue swirling the mixture until it becomes dark amber. (Be careful -- you want it to be dark, but it can go from dark to burning in seconds.) Take it off the heat immediately.
Slowly pour in the cream, stirring with a whisk. Again, be careful as the caramel will start splattering, and will splatter even more if you add the cream too fast. Whisk until combined and set aside.
Ingredients
For the buttercream:
3 egg whites
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 sticks of butter, at room temperature (I actually use salted butter)
Combine the sugar, egg whites, cream of tartar and water in the stainless steel bowl of an electric mixer (i.e. your KitchenAid bowl). Bring a large pan of water to simmer, making sure that the water is a the same height as the egg whites in your stainless bowl. Set the bowl in the pan of simmering water and whisk constantly until the mixture reaches 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Be really careful not to curdle the egg whites-- simply remove the bowl from the heat for a bit if it feels like that's happening. Also, you'll know when it's getting close to 160 degrees; the mixture will be getting ultra foamy, like the top of a latte. (A really good latte that is-- one of those kinds where it has a leaf-pattern on top, you know what I'm talking about.)
Remove the bowl to your stand mixer and beat on high speed for 3-5 minutes, until the mixture holds glossy, marshmallowy peaks. Remove the meringue to another bowl.
In the standing mixer, beat half the butter and one-third of the meringue until well combined. Continue to add the remaining two-thirds of the meringue a dollop at a time. The mixture may look scarily curdled at this point; adding the remaining butter a tablespoon at a time will smooth things out. (Basically, just keep adding a bit of butter at a time until the curdling corrects itself.)
With the mixer on low, add the caramel and mix until well-combined.
Frost the cupcakes using an offset spatula. Sprinkle with sea salt.
Happy Valentine Day! This is the time to bake chocolatey desserts. I thought that the best place to start was with the recipe from a recent LA Times Culinary SOS: Milk's ooey gooey double chocolate cookies. I read the description and was totally sold.
But something wasn't quite right -- I wasn't liking all the unsweetened chocolate the recipe called for, and I felt like (is this possible?) that there was too much chocolate for the chocolate chunks -- I mean, really, a whole pound for only 18 cookies is kind of ridiculous; I'd sooner eat bon bons. The reason I don't like unsweetened chocolate is that it can be a difficult element to control. There are lots of options out there for excellent bittersweet and semisweet chocolate, but there are few choices for unsweetened. And, on top of that, I can't easily find it where I live.
I tried the recipe anyway and was pretty disappointed by the texture. The melted chocolate was great, but the cookie part was disappointing -- no chew and it actually had a bit of a, I don't know, gritty texture. I was convinced that just cramming as much chocolate into a cookie as possible does not a great cookie make.
In the end I found a great Martha Stewart double chocolate cookie recipe with better proportions of sugar, flour and chocolate. (Chocolate and cocoa add quite a bit of starch to a recipe, so a good chocolate recipe will automatically look as though it has too little flour). I bumped up the amount of chocolate chunks for this recipe, and replaced all the milk chocolate with bittersweet for a darker, less sweet cookie.
They came out perfect -- the cross between a brownie and a cookie that I was looking for, with lots of gooey chocolate chunks. Bake them right after you've mixed them -- for some reason, the texture was better before I left the dough in the fridge (unusual with most drop cookies). These are best warm out of the oven. Skip the chocolate souffle and bake these for your sweetie!
Gooey double chocolate chip cookies makes about 2 dozen cookies
Ingredients 4 ounces (150g) bittersweet chocolate 1/2 cup (1 stick, or 110g) butter 2 large eggs 1-1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 cup (130g) all-purpose flour 1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1-1/2 cups (8 ounces, or 300g) chocolate chunks or chocolate chips
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F (165 C). In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt. Set aside.
Melt the butter and 4 ounces of bittersweet chocolate together over low heat. Remove from heat and add the vanilla.
In the bowl of a mixer, combine the eggs and sugar and beat at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Lower the speed to low and beat in the chocolate mixture until well combined.
Add the flour and stir until just combined. Fold in the chocolate chips or chocolate chunks.
Drop 1-1/2 tablespoon portions 2-inches apart onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
Bake for no longer than 13 minutes -- they should be slightly underbaked so the interior stays chewy and soft. Remove the whole sheet of parchment to a cooling rack and cool until just warm and set.
A few weeks ago (okay, before Christmas) I heard this story on NPR in which Shirley Corriher, author of Bakewise and frequent guest on Good Eats talks about what makes a good cookie. She ended with one of her recent favorites, chocolate crinkle cookies. I had never made them before, so I was intrigued. (Butterhorns were the holiday cookie of choice in our household growing up.)
After looking at the recipe, and reading about bloggers' attempts to make the cookie, I realized that I would first of all have to cut back on the sugar. The recipe calls for an ungodly 2-3/4 cups of sugar, and that is not even including the powdered sugar on the outside. Holy toothache! Many other bloggers said that it was in fact, too too TOO sweet.
I worked on it for a couple of weeks and came down to this recipe. I reduced the sugar and replaced the canola oil with melted butter. (Come on, why make a cookie without butter?) It is a bit more fudgy than chewy, but is still really super chocolatey. The key is to not overbake it, and in fact underbake it just a little bit. A nice tip I took away from the NPR story was first rolling the cookies in granulated sugar, then powdered sugar prevents the cookie from absorbing the powdered sugar so it stays snowy white.
Chocolate Crinkle Cookies makes about 2 dozen cookies
Ingredients 6 tablespoons (75g) butter 8 ounces (227g) bittersweet chocolate 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1-1/4 cup (250g) granulated sugar 2 tablespoons honey or corn syrup 2 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk 1-3/4 cup flour (232g) 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt
For rolling: 1/2 cup granulated sugar 3/4 cup powdered sugar
Melt together the butter and chocolate. Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla.
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a separate bowl. Set aside.
With a mixer with a paddle attachment, combine the sugar, honey and eggs on medium speed for 3-4 minutes. The mixture should be lightened and thickened quite a bit.
Add the chocolate-butter mixture to the egg mixture. Beat at medium low speed until well combined.
Add the flour mixture to the chocolate mixture, and beat at low speed just until combined.
Refrigerate the batter for at least 4 hours.
When you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 325 F (170 C). Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Roll the dough into 2-inch balls. Roll in the granulated sugar, then the powdered sugar.
Bake for 11 - 13 minutes (I bake them at 11 minutes, but I think my oven runs too hot). They should still look a bit gooey inside.
Let cool and eat the same day if possible (that's when they are best!)
We just got back from a whirlwind trip to Seattle a couple weeks ago and I'm finally getting around to posting some pics!
We hit our usual places (sushi, burgers, etc.) and my sis held her wedding reception at Palisades which was totally delish (this is such a great place for a reception!) A couple of my favorite new finds:
Samurai Noodle: This place on the side of Uwajimaya totally blew my mind. I loves some noodle soup, but the pork broth seriously Knocked. Me. Out. It was that good -- creamy, salty, tasty tonkotsu broth (not to be confused with tonkatsu, which is pork cutlet). No wonder the place is jammed at all hours of the day. Thanks to my sis for the awesome tip!
Trophy Cupcakes: Another recommendation from my sis. I am normally not super impressed with cupcake joints because usually their goods seem too sweet. (See this post for my typical opinion). Even though they were sweet, I really liked the cupcakes at Trophy. The price almost made me fall over, so at first I bought two cupcakes (at $2.99 a pop, they'd better be good!), but we gobbled them down so fast that we had to go back for more. The flavor not to miss? S'mores. This one took the cake, so to speak. And I don't even like real s'mores.
Stumptown Coffee: This one was a tip from my friend Joseph, the best home barista I know. Here you can get the perfect latte. My brother called them "those feather coffees" because of the leaf pattern on top -- which, as I've mentioned before, is the sign that the coffee and milk were worked perfectly. Sigh, I don't find that too often here in NL, so Seattlelites, don't take your great baristas for granted!
Delicioso tonkotsu ramen at Samurai Noodle
Ordering fish and chips at Jack's at Pike Place Market
A pretty little chai cardamom cupcake at Trophy (good, but the s'mores cupcakes are still my fave.)
Merry Christmas! Here's the perfect holiday snack -- roasted chestnuts. Last year we were in Rome just after Christmas, and a few times a day we would buy a cone of grilled chestnuts on the streets. Nothing beats it in cold weather. I couldn't resist when I saw some at the produce stand a few days ago. Make sure they are really fresh, and if you keep them in the fridge for a couple of days, keep them in a bag that breathes, rather than a plastic bag. These are ready to eat in a half hour, and if you have a house full of people who love chestnuts (like mine) they won't last more than a half hour.
Roasted chestnuts
Ingredients
1 pound (1/2 kilo) fresh chestnuts
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F (225 C). Prepare the chestnuts by slicing an 'x' into the flat side of each chestnut with a serrated knife. Be very careful not to cut yourself, especially if the chestnuts are really hard.
Lay the chestnuts flat on a roasting pan and sprinkle liberally with water.
Roast for 15 minutes, then turn the chestnuts over. Sprinkle them with water again.
Roast for another 15 minutes, then remove from the oven.
Cool until you can handle them, then eat immediately -- they are delicious warm.
I have been just a little bit obsessed with pumpkin over the past few weeks. I've made a bunch of pies, bars, you name it. I felt like making a slightly different dessert, and having bought a bunch of cream cheese with the intention of making a lemon cheesecake, I switched gears and went for a pumpkin one instead. 'Tis the season.
One accidental discovery in the process was that kruidnoten, the crunchy tiny Sinterklaas cookies that Zwarte Pieten throw at all the kids this week, make a really excellent cheesecake crust. If you don't have access to pepernoten, gingersnaps are a good substitute. Also, if you don't have access to pepernoten, you are probably better off. They are seriously like an addictive cookie version of crack -- you have one and you can't stop consuming them. Luckily, they are a seasonal treat.
Some tips: Do make sure to use a bain-marie (water bath) to make sure the cheesecake cooks evenly. If you use canned pumpkin, the amount called for here is equivalent to one 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree. Do make sure to cook it briefly (as mentioned in the recipe). I like to serve it with sweetened vanilla creme fraiche. If you don't have easy access to creme fraiche (or if it is expensive), you can add 2 tablespoons of buttermilk to 1 cup of heavy cream, shake it in a jar, and leave it out at room temperature overnight.
Pumpkin cheesecake with sweetened vanilla cream makes one 9-inch cake
Ingredients
For crust: 9 ounces (250 g) kruidnoten (or gingersnaps) 6 tablespoons (90g) butter, melted and cooled to room temperature
For cheesecake: 1 kabocha pumpkin, about 2 pounds (or 1 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree) 1-1/2 teaspoons speculaas spice (or pumpkin pie spice) 1-1/2 pounds (700g) cream cheese, room temperature 1 cup sugar 5 large eggs, at room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla
For vanilla creme fraiche: 1 cup (200ml) creme fraiche 2 teaspoons vanilla 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
If you are using fresh pumpkin: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F (160 C). Cut the pumpkin into quarters, scooping out the seeds and stringy stuff. Place in a baking dish, cover with foil, and roast for 1 hour or until soft. Scoop out the flesh and measure out 2 cups.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (160 C). Crush the cookies in a bag or give it a whirl in a food processor until it is completely in crumbs. Using a fork, combine with the butter until all the crumbs are moistened. Press them firmly into a 9-inch springform pan.
Bake for 15 minutes, until fragrant. Remove to a cooling rack.
Combine the pumpkin with the spices. In a medium saucepan, heat the pumpkin over medium heat, stirring. Cook for 3-5 minutes, until shiny and slightly thickened. Remove and cool to room temperature.
In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the cream cheese and sugar. With the paddle attachment, mix at low speed for a few seconds until softened a bit. Add the cooled pumpkin and vanilla, mix at low speed for another minute or so. Scrape down the bowl. With the mixer running on low, add the eggs one at a time. Scrape down the bowl and combine for another 1-2 minutes.
Cover the outside of the springform pan in two layers of aluminium foil, making sure it is secure around the pan -- you don't want water to get in. Pour the cheesecake filling into the springform pan. Set the springform pan into a roasting pan. Set the pan on the oven rack and fill the roasting pan halfway up the sides with very hot tap water.
Bake the cheesecake for 1 hour. Check the temperature with an instant-read thermometer -- the temperature should be at least 160 degrees F (72 degrees C). If not, bake for 15-20 minutes longer.
Turn off the oven and prop the door open with the handle of a wooden spoon. Leave the cheesecake in the oven for 1 hour. Remove from the oven and the water bath. Run a knife around the cake to make sure it doesn't stick to the sides of the springform pan. Set on a cooling rack until cooled to room temperature. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving.
For the creme fraiche: Combine the creme fraiche, vanilla and sugar. Stir together and refrigerate until you serve the cheesecake.
I was lucky enough to find big American marshmallows in the gourmet grocery
My friend Martha recently posted on Facebook that she was driving 25 minutes away for hot chocolate. This may sound ridiculous -- unless you've had good hot chocolate.
Some of my favorite hot chocolate is at Angelina in Paris. And yes, to say my favorite hot chocolate is in Paris makes me cringe at how much I sound like some sort of pompous foodie. But really, the hot chocolate is goooood. It is dark and thick, almost like pudding, and tastes like a warm melted chocolate bar. And it also costs a fortune.
Rather than take the train eight hours round trip for a hot beverage, I've been lucky enough to come across a recipe, courtesy of Jeffrey Steingarten (speaking of pompous foodies, he's my favorite) that basically mimics that hot chocolate that I crave.
The most important thing about this recipe is that you use a good chocolate that you like to eat. I really like Valrhona and Scharffen-Berger dark chocolate (70% cacao). Callebaut will do in a pinch. For the love of Jacques, don't use Hersheys, unless you are making this for someone you don't like. Also, do use the salt -- it brings out the chocolatey in chocolate.
Okay, enough writing. Must have hot chocolate.
Favorite hot chocolate serves 4 adapted from Jeffrey Steingarten
Ingredients 1-1/2 cup whole milk 1/4 cup water 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 3 ounces (80g) of your favorite bittersweet chocolate, cut into chunks 3 tablespoons Dutch cocoa powder (Droste is my favorite) a generous pinch of salt
In a saucepan, stir together the milk, water and sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat.
Add the chocolate and cocoa, bring to a boil again, whisking until the chocolate and cocoa are dissolved and the mixture is thickened.
Serve in little cups -- a little goes a long way with this hot chocolate!
Last weekend we had a great time (and great weather) picking apples and pears at a farm nearby. Elstar apples and Conference pears were in season -- my favorite kinds! The fruit trees are pruned to be short, more like bushes, so it was easy for the kids, even the baby, to join in. We ended up with 11 kilos (!) of fruit, but I gotta say, it was really hard for the kids to stop adding to the bags. So, to use up some of this fruit, desserts are in order. I've re-posted one of my favorite recipes for Dutch appeltaart here. (Here's the original post as well.)
Baby-sized Conference pears: perfect for snacking.
You must do a bit of taste-testing...
... and make sure to wear waterproof boots.
Short trees make you pick too many, of course.
A pear tree tipping under the weight of all that deliciousness.
Dutch Appeltaart makes one 9-inch taart
For the crust: 2 cups all-purpose flour (300 grams) 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar (150 grams) zest from one mandarin orange 1 teaspoon salt 12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (about 175 grams), cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 egg 1 slice white bread, processed into breadcrumbs in a food processor
For the filling: 2 pounds apples (I like Granny Smith for its texture and tartness) 4 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla
Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper. Combine the flour, brown sugar, orange zest and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and cut it into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. (Alternatively, use a food processor.) Stir in the egg with a fork, then use your hands to knead the mixture until it resembles, well, a ball of dough. Flatten the dough into a 6-inch disk, wrap in cling wrap and place in refrigerator for at least an hour.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll out 3/4 of the dough between two sheets of cling wrap to about a 13-inch circle (set aside the other 1/4 of the dough for the top of the tart). Set it into the springform pan. Don't worry if it tears; the dough is really forgiving, so just pat it into the bottom and sides of the pan. Scatter the breadcrumbs along the bottom of the tart crust. Place it into the refrigerator while preparing the filling.
Core and peel the apples. Divide each apple into 16 slices. (Place the apples in a bowl of ice water so they don't turn brown.) Drain the apple slices and combine with the cornstarch, salt, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla.
Roll out the remaining crust dough into strips to create a lattice-like top. (Don't worry about making it perfect-- it'll sort of 'melt' in the oven anyway.)
Place the apple mixture (but make sure not to include the accumulated liquid) into the tart crust and lay the lattice-dough-strips on top.
Bake in preheated oven for 50 minutes. Remove and cool on a cooling rack-- once it's cooled to room temperature, remove the springform sides. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.
I was going through our photos recently and realized that I had never posted pics from a long weekend in Italy that the little chica and I took to visit her friend in Bergamo. Although it was a very short trip, it was good eating, as usual! We stayed in Bergamo with our friends the Myliuses, and took a couple of day trips: one to Lake Como and another to Verona, both of which are really charming places to visit (even though the day we were at Lake Como, there was a freakish rain/windstorm that seemed to catch everyone off guard!)
Donatella made us a delicious appletart from a family recipe, among other yummy things to eat.
Of course we picked up sweets at this bakery in Citta Alta, Bergamo.
At one of the bakeries in Bergamo, Donatella pointed out a specialty: a giant croissant filled with Nutella. Bon appetito!
Donatella took us to an amazing restaurant the night before we left -- La Colombina, which specializes in la cucina bergamasca, total dishes from Bergamo. Here are casoncelli, the local filled ravioli served with butter, bacon and sage, and risotto with a red wine reduction. Very very rich but really delish. (and also affordable, with the most expensive dish being only 12 euro!)
In season peaches at the neighborhood market near the Mylius home.
The town center of Verona is really compact and walkable. Here is a statue of Berto Barbarani, a famous poet from Verona.
And of course no trip is complete without gelato! Here is the little chica's favorite flavor: yogurt.
My friend Dana here in Den Haag asked me for this recipe. These are little bar cookies that are especially nice for school lunches -- they transport well, and they're sweet, but not too sweet, and they have kind of this granola bar thing going because of the oatmeal. That said, they are still dessert -- they have a really buttery shortbread base in which part of it is mixed up with the oats and nuts to create a streusel topping. Really nice for an afternoon snack.
Raspberry oatmeal bars adapted from Cooks Illustrated makes about 24 bar cookies
Ingredients 2-1/2 cups AP flour (350 grams) 2 sticks of butter (220 grams), cut into small chunks, at room temperature 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup granulated sugar (100 grams) 1/4 cup packed brown sugar (60 grams) 1/2 cup rolled oats (45 grams) 1/2 cup chopped pecans or walnuts (50 grams) 3/4 cup fresh or frozen raspberries (100 grams), thawed, if frozen 3/4 cup raspberry jam (240 grams) 2 teaspoons lemon juice
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 C). Line a 13x9-inch baking pan with parchment paper. Reserve 2 small chunks of the butter and set aside (this will be for the streusel).
In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the flour, salt and white granulated sugar. With the paddle attachment and the mixer on low, add the butter one piece at a time. Mix until it looks like wet sand starting to clump together (this is a great tip from Cooks Illustrated -- usually, or rather, always, recipes call for a mixture to resemble "coarse meal" which sometimes seems meaningless.).
Measure out half the mixture (about 1-1/4 cup) and set aside for the streusel. Press the rest of the mixture down into the baking pan with your hands, making sure it's as even as possible. Bake the shortbread for 14-15 minutes, until it is lightly brown.
In the meantime, combine the remaining flour-butter mixture with the oats, brown sugar, and nuts. Adding the butter you set aside earlier, rub the mixture together with your fingers until it creates large clumps and kind of adheres together, but still looks crumbly.
In a small bowl, mash up the raspberries a bit, then add the jam. Test for sweetness/sourness and add the lemon juice if it's too sweet (the lemon also keeps the raspberries a nice bright color). Mash it together. Pour the raspberry mixture over the shortbread and spread with a spatula.
Sprinkle the streusel evenly over the shortbread and raspberries.
Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling and the top is golden brown. Cool on a rack until room temperature or just warm, then cut into squares.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Madeleines (with the right tin)
Last year, I posted a recipe for teacakes because I couldn't find a proper madeleine tin here in Den Haag. I even went to the chi-chi DOK kitchen shop in the Passage (definitely my fave kitchen shop in town) and asked about it: yes, they had silicone baking forms for madeleines as well as non-stick baking tins: neither of which I wanted. Not that you couldn't bake using those: I just feel like the regular tins maybe brown better -- perhaps because you have to properly prep them with butter and flour. (Or maybe it's just because I find them more aesthetically pleasing? Yes, I'm shallow.)
A few weeks ago, I was standing in the baking section at DOK with my friend Deb (who was visiting from Boston), and lo and behold, the regular metal madeleine baking tins were shining at me from a lower shelf. Yay! Deb bought me two of them as a prezzie (thanks Deb!), and I was on my way to baking proper madeleines.
Like the teacakes recipe, these have a mild orange flavor. I adjusted the recipe to add baking powder, which is far from authentic for madeleines. However, I find it easier to deal with because you are not entirely dealing with eggs for all the lift -- I don't have a ton of patience to "carefully fold" the flour into the eggs. With the baking powder, this recipe is a bit more forgiving. And trust me, you won't notice it when you are dipping a madeleine into some tea, a la Proust.
Almost classic madeleines
makes 24 large madeleines, or 80 tiny ones
Ingredients 1-1/2 cups sifted all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 6 ounces butter (170 grams), melted and cooled to room temperature zest of one orange 3 large eggs 1 egg yolk 3/4 cup granulated sugar powdered sugar (optional, for sprinkling)
Prepare the baking tins by buttering liberally, then sprinkling flour and tapping out the excess. Preheat oven to 450 F (220 C).
Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a large bowl.
Combine the butter and orange zest in a medium bowl and set aside.
Combine the eggs, egg yolk and sugar in the bowl of a mixer. Beat with whisk attachment for 3 minutes on medium high, until mixture is light and airy.
Sift the flour mixture into the egg mixture and fold in until it is all combined and there isn't any more dry flour. Spoon out about a quarter of the flour-egg mixture and stir into the butter. Pour the butter mixture back into the flour-egg mixture and fold in.
Spoon into the baking tins (each shell form should be about 3/4 full). Bake for about 8 minutes, until risen and golden brown.
Cool in the tin for about 5 minutes, then remove madeleines and cool on a baking rack until just warm. They are delicious with tea or coffee.
Friday, August 08, 2008
Rhubarb strawberry crumble
One of my favorite ingredients lately is rhubarb. This may be because I didn't grow up eating it at all, so it has that interesting novelty to it. I remember being curious about it in the supermarket, but that was the extent of it. We lived in a Filipino household, and it's not like they grow rhubarb in the Philippines, so that's that. My husband Kyle on the other had, grew up in a house with a giant vegetable garden out back where his parents would pull up loads of rhubarb every summer. I was actually introduced to properly using it as an ingredient by his mom, who, as I wrote in a previous post, made the most delicious rhubarb bread.
This recipe is for a crumble, which is one of my favorite desserts to make. First, it's super easy to make, like, right before dinner. Secondly, you can really improvise with the fruit, depending on what is in season and what you have on hand. You have blueberries? Pears? Go for it, just adjust the sugar accordingly. Rhubarb naturally loves strawberries and oranges, so try to use one or both of these (in the form of juice, zest, etc.) when using it. They are very, very happy together.
The crumble part is lifted from a Jamie Oliver recipe that I love because it seems to call for 100 grams of everything (sugar-- for the topping, flour, oats and butter), making it a very easy recipe to remember.
Rhubarb strawberry crumble adapted from At Home With Jamie
Ingredients 1 pound rhubarb, cut into chunks 1 pound strawberries, halved 200 grams brown sugar (1 cup, packed) zest and juice of one small orange 100 grams AP flour (1-1/2 cup) 100 grams butter, cold and cut into chunks (7 tablespoons butter) 100 grams oatmeal (1-1/3 cup) a pinch of salt
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180 C). In a medium saucepan, combine the rhubarb with 100 grams of the sugar, salt, and the zest and juice of the orange. Heat over medium heat and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add the strawberries, if using.
Combine the flour, butter and remaining brown sugar (100 grams) in a large bowl. Using a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the oats and toss it through with your fingers.
Spoon the rhubarb mixture into the bottom of an 8x8 baking dish. Sprinkle the oatmeal mixture over the rhubarb. Bake for 30 minutes until the sauce is bubbling and the topping is brown and fragrant.
I always do this. I always wait until something is going out of season before I'm like, "Oh no! It's going out of season!" This happens to me every summer with strawberries. We see the first ones appear in April or May, and usually I tell the kids, "Let's wait a bit -- those ones will be too sour yet." Then June is prime time for the berries and I usually am thinking, "Still a while to go while they're in season." Then I start seeing strawberries from Spain show up in the market and it's finally, "Uh oh..."
So with a last hurrah, I'll usually make strawberry shortcake. I actually make scone-ish, biscuit type shortcake, which I think with it's crunchy edge, tastes a lot better with berries and whipped cream. And speaking of whipped cream, I prefer this with sweetened creme fraiche, or even sweetened Greek yogurt. This is a super easy dessert, easily prepared right before dinner so the the biscuits bake while you are eating.
If you prefer regular whipped cream, check out my recipe for strawberry waffles (another great dessert prepared in almost the same way.)
Don't be like me -- don't wait until they're going out of season. But if you do, this is a great way to have that last in-season bite.
Strawberry shortcakes 8 servings
For strawberry mixture: 2 pints fresh strawberries (about 1 liter volume) 1/4 cup sugar (50 g) a pinch of salt
For biscuits: 2 cups AP flour (250 g) 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup sugar (50 g) 1 stick (110 g) butter, chilled and cut into small cubes 1 large egg, beaten 1/2 cup milk (120 ml) 1 cup creme fraiche, with 1 teaspoon vanilla and 1 tablespoon sugar stirred in
Quarter the strawberries, and take 1/3 of them and mash with a fork. Combine the mashed strawberries with the quartered strawberries and sprinkle with the sugar and salt. Allow to macerate for about a half hour.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F (22o C). Combine flour, baking powder, salt and sugar in a large bowl. Add the cold butter. With a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. (You can also combine the ingredients in a food processor and give it a whiz for a few seconds.)
Whisk together the egg and milk and pour into the flour mixture. Using a spatula, mix until the dough comes together. Turn it out onto a floured surface and flatten out.
With a knife, cut into 8 squares. Place the squares on a baking sheet prepped with parchment paper. Brush tops with milk and sprinkle with extra sugar.
Bake for 12-14 minutes. Remove and cool on a cooling rack.
To serve: Place the biscuits on the serving plates, then split the biscuits lengthwise. Spoon the strawberry mixture on each biscuit and top with the creme fraiche.
Here are some more from our trip to Milwaukee and Chicago...
Sparkly. We attended my friend Sandra's wedding in Chicago. Here's her cake, beautifully appropriate for the Fourth of July (and we even got to watch the fireworks from the boat on Lake Michigan where she had the reception!)
Tasty. My brother's girlfriend Marnie cooked dinner for us. She is an amazing cook! Here are the brussel sprouts with Asiago (from one of her fave recipes on the excellent food blog, 101 Cookbooks.)
Creamy. More from Marnie: creamy bacony stuffed mushrooms.
Refreshing. My friend Jen and her little boy made ice pops for the kids and me. They were made out of a nice, not-to-sweet peach fruit juice. Perfect for a hot afternoon!
Crispy. The great thing about being home for Fourth of July weekend is getting to have lots and lots of barbeque! Here are some of the excellent marinated bbq pork by my friend Mark's wife, Jessica and my friend Mayette. Man, that crispy fatty part is the best.
Wisconsinite/Filipino. If you grow up in Wisconsin, you grow up on bratwurst. But being Filipino, at our house it was never served grilled on a bun. Instead we grilled them and ate it with rice and tomatoes, or pancit. Believe me, an excellent combination.
Trashy. On the way back from Chicago I was jonesing for some Castle, the tiny steamed burgers that are ultimately, to be honest! pretty mediocre. (See my post on Kopps to read about great burgers in Wisconsin.) Of course, (as I realized all through college) you only have to have them at 1 o'clock in the morning after a night out (a la Harold and Kumar) to find out how truly outstanding they really are!
Beefy. My mom received a bunch of steaks from my aunt, who lives in Ohio. She and my uncle donate money to their local 4H beef breeding program. Basically, the group raises a steer for beef, the meat then being divided among those supporting the program. (I believe this is how it works-- correct me if I'm wrong!) I find this program interesting for a few reasons: it seems to put children in touch with animals and how they are raised for meat -- super topical these days, especially as a backlash against industrial farming. Secondly, supporters of the program essentially get a local product, great for those who are interested in 'eating local'. When I had some of this, even before I knew, I was like, "These steaks are awesome-- where did you get them?" It doesn't hurt either that my dad is awesome at the grill.
The flavor of the day when we were at Kopps: Peanut butter banana nut. The kids went loco over it.
When we took a much overdue trip to Milwaukee and Chicago a couple weeks ago, one of the things I was obsessed with was frozen custard. Oh, you haven't had frozen custard? Let's just say it is one thing you must eat if you like a) sweet things or b) food. Seriously, it is almost worth a trip across the ocean all by itself.
Basically, it is like a creamier, smoother version of ice cream. Oh yes, and also fattier and denser than gelato. First, a primer on what is important with ice cream texture. There are a couple of things that have a major impact on texture: butterfat and overrun. Butterfat content typically creates a "fattier" smooth texture of ice cream that 'coats the tongue'. Yes, sounds gross, but is important to texture and taste. Overrun is the amount of air that mixed into the ice cream as it is churned.
Here is what is special about frozen custard:
It has an egg custard base (hence, the name frozen custard).
It has a high butterfat content (it must have at least 10 percent butterfat, like ice cream, although my favorite custard, Kopp's, has 16 percent butterfat).
It has low overrun of only 20 percent, while regular ice cream has between 50 to 100 percent overrun (that's a lot of air!). This is due to the special, freaky-looking churner that spits out frozen custard in a giant vanilla or chocolate snake of frozen goodness. It churns more slowly, thereby preventing too much air being churned in.
Frozen custard is served at a higher temperature, normally 18 degrees Fahrenheit rather than the 10 degrees Fahrenheit that standard ice cream is served at. This prevents it from numbing your tongue, and because it is so dense, it doesn't seem to melt that quickly. Perfect!
Do not confuse real frozen custard with soft serve ice cream. Soft serve is just an imposter, usually with a high amount of overrun and totally artificial flavors. Avoid it!
The Milwaukee area is loaded with real frozen custard joints. My personal fave is Kopps, simply because I grew up on it. They always carry vanilla and chocolate, then two flavors of the day. (My favorite flavor of the day? Caramel cashew-- it has loads of real cashews.) My mom practically swears by the chocolate malts at Gilles Frozen Custard (she is the biggest chocolate malt aficionado I know) -- she said it has the most malt flavor of any of the custard stands. Leon's is the classic stand where Bill Clinton visited. (Where has he not eaten?) If you are outside the Milwaukee area, Culvers will do if you need to get a fix, (they are a chain that started in Wisconsin) but I don't find their custard nearly as good as other Milwaukee-only joints. (But I dig those burgers!)
Speaking of which, the burgers at Kopps are not so shabby either. And you gotta love that the fried onions, ketchup, mustard and relish are free condiments, while all the veggies like lettuce and tomato cost extra. Why try to dress up a butter burger with healthy stuff? Honesty is delicious.
Our friend Fiona was kind enough to bring us some Tim Tams, chocolate covered biscuits, from Australia a few weeks ago. Tim Tams really are an ordinary, basically mediocre biscuit, but this was an extra special treat for one reason: the Tim Tam Slam. One of our friends introduced us to the Slam a while back, and we were instantly addicted. Basically, you use the biscuit as a 'straw' for hot coffee, tea or milk. The biscuit totally disintegrates into a delicious, oozy, sloppy mess.
Clockwise, from top left: Canarian mojo, Chickpeas stew, Homemade naan, Chicken katsu
I started a Facebook group called Rice With Everything. (In hypnotic voice, "You must join....") Basically, I realized, when I was watching Kyle eat spaghetti sauce with rice the other day, that yes, I have managed to have an impact on him. Good or bad is up to you.
In conjunction with the group creation, I've rounded up my "must-eat-with-rice" recipes. Peruse, and make sure to eat it all with rice.
On a related note, in all seriousness, there is a dark side. I read this article about the rising cost of rice and a worldwide shortage. If you've ever been to the Philippines, you'll understand why this situation is so dire: it is basically the only food that much of the population was able to afford. I felt the rice increase halfway across the globe-- the 20 lb bag at the Chinese grocery was nearly one-third more expensive. If I'm feeling the impact of rice prices, how much more devastating is it in the developing world? (One way to have a small impact? Play FreeRice.com.)
Even in the U.S., many people are hoarding rice because of the shortages. This may be hysteria (for now, at least), but I'll tell you what this most has to do with: rice type. For westernized Asians, this most impacts the sort of rice you buy. I gotta admit, when I have to buy anything other than jasmine rice (or even particular brands of jasmine rice) I can seriously tell the difference. I'm not exaggerating when I say I may have a freak out if the specific rice bag I normally buy is unavailable, or if the price is jacked. I'm hoping this hysteria in SF is just that: hysteria.
So I think I've finally done it. I finally have the perfect kickass brownie recipe. I know your heart is palpitating with excitement (sit down, you don't want to faint) but at the same time, you're wondering, "What makes it perfect?"
We can all argue (for days, perhaps) the merits of fudgy versus chewy versus cakey brownies. Believe me, unless you are some sort of psychotic chocolate hater, you probably have an opinion on it. What I've realized is that you can't please everybody when it comes to brownies, so you might as well just make yourself happy. What do I like? For me, it is the chewy with the crackly top.
I thought I had come across the right recipe, but somehow this ended up feeling too... I don't know, intensely chocolate, almost like a flourless chocolate cake. I've been trying to find something ever since that has more chewiness, still chocolatey but doesn't knock you out-- or basically not falling over from the chocolate and sugar rush afterward.
I came across a NY Times article on this very subject. (Great article-- with a brief history of the brownie, just in case you are a food nerd like me.) In it, one of the recipes had the unusual ingredient of brown sugar, which I never thought to put into brownies. I gave this recipe a go and there was my Baking Epiphany: the brown sugar added moisture, which made it chewy, and a quick whisk on the eggs gave it the crinkly top. The only thing I found is that it was too sweet. So I adjusted the sugar by cutting back on the white sugar, and replacing some of it with brown sugar. One major plus point with brownies is that you don't have to bother with super expensive chocolate. Believe me, it won't make a difference. Just use chocolate that you would choose to eat. (If you hate Hershey's, don't use it. I'll admit, I don't like Hershey's. But I'll use Ghirardelli for brownies any day.) That is one of the things that is awesome about brownies: they are totally common, totally proletariat, but even the most pretentious, Valrhona-only-eating foodie still digs them.
With this recipe, the brownies taste even better the next day (if they last that long). They become sort of chewier; just make sure you wrap them up tightly when storing.
Kickass brownies adapted from the NY Times Makes 9 large brownies or 12 smallish ones
Ingredients 4 ounces butter (110 grams) 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (110 grams) 2 eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup dark brown sugar (155 grams) 1/4 cup granulated sugar (50 grams) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 cup all-purpose flour (56 grams) 1/3 cup chopped walnuts (optional)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180 C). Butter and flour an 8-inch pan.
Melt the butter and chocolate over low heat in a small, heavy saucepan, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in salt, brown sugar, white sugar and vanilla. Cool until just warm.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs lightly. Whisk in the chocolate mixture. Stir in the flour and nuts.
Pour the batter in the baking pan and bake for 30 minutes, until the top is shiny (you can check whether it's done with a skewer, but crumbs should easily cling to the skewer. Try not to overbake). Cool on a baking rack.
This article is great, with a totally disgusting breakdown of what are in some of America's favorite drinks. (Whoever thought that Vitamin Water is so unhealthy? Shame on you 50 Cent!) Ever since I read once that one Cinnabon contains as many calories as a pork chop dinner, I've been fascinated by what we are basically eating when it comes to throwaway fatty sugary foods.
I will admit this though: I love that Jamba Juice Peanut Butter Moo. (Although knowing that it has more sugar than an entire bag of chocolate chips will definitely make me think twice next time.)
When we're not having waffles on the weekend, we're usually having pancakes. With Mothers Day around the corner, I started thinking about one of my favorites: oatmeal pancakes. My mom really likes pancakes, and she really likes oatmeal for breakfast. I came across a recipe for oatmeal pancakes in Debra Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. It turns out they are in fact two great things that taste great together. And you get fiber in your weekend breakfast to boot.
My kids are big fans of these. I serve them with a sweetened yogurt banana topping. (Bananas and oatmeal: another great combo.) They are really nice with basically any fruit topping, or just maple syrup. If you're feeling really saucy you can try a Nutella chocolate sauce-- it is really delish with the yogurt-banana topping. Don't make this on a weekday or you'll be in trouble (unless whipping up pancakes before work is your idea of fun!).
Oatmeal pancakes adapted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone makes about a dozen small pancakes
Ingredients 1-1/2 cup oatmeal 2 cups buttermilk 2 tablespoons brown sugar 4 tablespoons melted butter 2 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1/2 cup flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt
Combine the oatmeal and buttermilk in a large bowl. Let stand for 20 minutes.
In a smaller bowl, combine the sugar, melted butter, eggs and vanilla and whisk until combined. Add to the oatmeal mixture.
Combine the flour, baking soda and salt in a small bowl. Add to the oatmeal mixture and whisk until just combined.
Heat a lightly greased pan or griddle over medium heat. Drop batter in 1/4 cup portions and cook until bubbles form on the surface, then flip and cook on the other side for a bit longer. Serve immediately, or keep warm in a 200 F (90 C) oven.
Yogurt banana topping 3/4 cup plain yogurt 1/4 cup sour cream or creme fraiche 3 tablespoons brown sugar (more or less for sweetness) 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 ripe banana, sliced
Combine the yogurt, sour cream, brown sugar and vanilla and stir until combined. Taste for sweetness, adding more brown sugar if necessary.
Add the banana and serve immediately.
Nutella topping 1/4 cup Nutella spread 3 tablespoons boiling water
In a medium bowl, combine the Nutella with the water. Whisk quickly until smooth-- the chocolate will seize and will initially look kind of lumpy, but it will smooth out with whisking.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
How to make Filipino leche flan
Yes, I know I've been terrible about posting (omg, has it really been almost a month??) But between starting a new job, being terribly sick and then having my kids terribly sick, I think it's understandable.
A few days ago one of my colleagues asked me if I've ever uploaded video for my blog. So I decided to make a Filipino style leche flan simply because on paper, it looks super easy because there are so few ingredients, but it is actually a bit difficult to make. I made at least a couple dozen of these babies before my mom (my food critic for all things Filipino) actually said, "Hey, this is good!"
So here is said video. Excuse the YouTube quality crappiness. I'll try to do something about that. Oh, and I'll post the recipe next. Enjoy!
Update: Man, YouTube turns videos into a GD crapfest. I updated the embed below to Google Video which has but a *slightly* higher image quality. But it still looks like I'm making leche flan in a flippin snowstorm. What gives?
Update 2: I LOVE Vimeo! Seriously, don't use anything else for embedded videos!
On my previous post, Crispy Waffle reader Kathleen asked about rice pudding. This was good timing because rice pudding is one of those things I've been craving a lot of lately. It is one of those foods that makes everyone as happy as a baby because it essentially resembles baby food. (But tastes better of course.)
This particular recipe is really easy because all it requires leftover rice; you can use already cooked rice. We always, always have leftover rice, usually sitting in the rice cooker from last night. (Go to any Asian's house. You'll probably find leftover rice from last night in the rice cooker.) One thing I noticed is that this recipe actually works best with room temperature rice. If the rice has been refrigerated overnight, it does not seem to absorb the milk as nicely, and the pudding becomes more soupy. So if you have leftover rice, make sure it is soft and at room temperature. Save the cold rice for fried rice.
If you don't have leftover rice, simply prepare 1 cup of uncooked rice for this recipe, as you would normally cook rice. You can make the below recipe immediately after the rice is cooked, and it'll come out fine.
One thing that makes this pudding extra yummy is that I use a vanilla pod rather than vanilla extract. You get those crunchy little bits of vanilla and a bigger hit of vanilla taste this way.
Rice pudding makes about 6 servings Ingredients 2-1/2 cups whole milk 1/2 cup heavy cream 3 cups cooked rice 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
In a heavy medium saucepan, combine all the ingredients.
Cook over medium heat, stirring, until mixture comes to a simmer. Lower heat and simmer for about 15-20 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thickened.
Saturday, March 01, 2008
Revisiting a classic: chocolate chip cookies
I can bet nine times out of ten when I ask my kids what they want for dessert (and I'm in the mood to make it, that is) that they will ask for the same thing: chocolate chip cookies. Somehow this isn't surprising, even though I make tons of their other favorites: rice pudding, brownies, various tarts, ice cream even. Is it a lack of creativity? Or is it true that Americans are always craving chocolate chip cookies? (Actually, when their friends are over, none of whom are American, this is the one thing besides popcorn that they can all agree on eating).
I earlier posted a recipe on chocolate chip cookies, but this is the version that I almost always go to. A couple of key things: make sure to toast the nuts first (if you are using them). This makes a huge difference in flavor. This recipe, which I've adapted and adjusted from The Best Recipe, creates not-too-sweet cookies that are chewy, rather than crispy. Do take them out of the oven earlier rather than later-- if you overbake them, they will end up crunchy later on. (They are still great later on, but I won't lie; they are definitely best a few minutes out of the oven.)
A few weeks ago I was watching the movie Stranger Than Fiction. (Aside: I found that movie, cliched title and all, to be really inventive, funny and touching. Totally underrated!) In a pivotal scene, Maggie Gyllenhaal, playing a baker, gives Will Ferrell's character chocolate chip cookies. (Another funny aside: in the movie she is a tax-evading lefty kook. The name of her bakery? The Uprising.) Here is where both Kyle and I got distracted: the cookie looked great, but it was so so tiny! We were like, "what kind of baker bakes choco chip cookies the size of a dime?" Anyway, with these, you won't have a problem. Just dole at least a tablespoonful for each cookie and they will be nice and big, and taste just as good as that Stranger Than Fiction cookie looked.
Classic chocolate chip cookies makes about 2 dozen cookies
Ingredients 2/3 cup (150 grams) butter, melted and cooled to room temperature 1 cup (200 grams) packed light brown sugar 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk 2 teaspoons vanilla 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (235 grams) all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup (150 grams) chocolate chips 1/2 cup (50 grams) chopped walnuts (or pecans or almonds)
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Combine the flour, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.
Combine the cooled melted butter with the white and brown sugar in the mixing bowl of a stand or hand mixer. Mix at low speed.
Add the eggs and vanilla and beat at medium speed until the mixture has turned much lighter and airy. Scrape down the bowl and add the flour mixture. Beat together at low speed only until just combined. Stir in the nuts and chocolate chips.
Drop the dough in one-tablespoon portions onto the baking sheet, leaving a bit of space around each cookie. Bake for 12 - 15 minutes. (Take them out of the oven before they seem fully baked -- leave them on the baking sheet for another 5 minutes out of the oven and they will continue to bake a bit, but still stay chewy later.)
Remove to a cooling rack and serve warm and gooey.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Raspberry almond clafoutis
A couple weeks ago, The Minimalist in the NYT had a recipe for clementine clafoutis. Clafoutis is a classic French dessert, basically fresh fruit baked in a batter, not unlike pancake batter. I thought that it was a great idea because now we have tons of mandarins in the house at any given time (it is the season, after all), and I always have the batter ingredients on hand (flour, sugar, eggs), so it's about the easiest dessert you can make in a pinch.
I had my doubts, however, about the oranges. I discovered, of course, that yes, there is a reason you don't usually hear of baked fruit desserts containing fresh oranges (I'm not talking about orange zest or juice). The batter was delish, but the mandarins were, well, basically just hot oranges. Which is exactly as appetizing as it sounds: ick.
The next night, I found a better use for that great easy batter recipe: berries and nuts. Now, it's not the season for raspberries at all, but frozen berries are, obviously, quite abundant. I used toasted sliced almonds because raspberries and almonds are so happy together.
You can totally pop this dessert in the oven as you are eating dinner, and it'll be ready when you're ready for dessert. And with creme fraiche and powdered sugar, it beats warm oranges any day.
Oh, by the way, eat this for breakfast or brunch sometime. I won't tell anyone.
Raspberry Almond Clafoutis adapted from The Minimalist makes 1 9-inch clafoutis
Ingredients 1 pint fresh or frozen raspberries 1/2 cup toasted sliced almonds 3 large eggs 1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 3/4 cup heavy cream 3/4 cup whole milk 1/2 cup flour sweetened creme fraiche and powdered sugar for serving
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter and flour a 9-inch pie pan, and tap out the excess flour.
Whisk the eggs in a large bowl until frothy. Add the sugar and whisk. Add the cream, milk and vanilla. Add the flour and whisk until combined.
Arrange the raspberries in the pie pan and pour the batter over it. Sprinkle the almonds over the batter.
Bake for 40 minutes, or until puffed. It'll be a little custardy inside, but it's good that way. Serve with creme fraich and powdered sugar.
It's been a while since my previous post, but hopefully some travel pics will make up for it. During the holidays, my mom and niece came to visit, and as a treat, we went to Rome for a few days. We'll definitely have to make a return trip because three of the five days were spent tending to a sick baby with an awful stomach virus, poor thing. Thankfully, we were staying in an apartment in Prati, where there was no shortage of good takeout pizza.
I had come to Rome with a list of recommendations from various articles and blogs. But after Day 1, I came away a bit disappointed and discovered that coming with a list is totally unnecessary in Rome; I didn't need to seek out the absolute best coffee, or ice cream or pizza because if you stay in a regular, not-too-touristic neighborhood, the great stuff will just be at the place closest to your neighborhood. Within a few blocks of where we stayed, we stumbled on a really good bakery, a restaurant that was happy to do takeout pizza for us and a shop dedicated to fresh pasta of every sort (which we unfortunately did not have time to try.) The standard of things like coffee and ice cream is high everywhere, so, like Paris, it's not necessary to go across town for the one that the Times or the foodies on eGullet claim is the absolute best. Ultimately, maybe my palate isn't so refined, but who cares? We still had some great eats!
I discovered that I found central Rome to be incredibly touristic (not a surprise, but still a surprise, like the crowds at the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain, yikes!), and I also discovered that when given her own camera, my 10-year-old little chica takes some really nice pictures. In fact, while I was getting deja vu while snapping pictures of Piazza Navona and the like (you know how you feel like you've seen something 100 times before, but not in person?), she somehow captured some interesting shots of the photographed-for-the-millionth time Pantheon and Coliseum. There's something to be said for seeing something for the first time ever!
Here's Dolce Maniera, the bakery where we picked up fruit tarts and croissants. Kyle and I stopped in here because we saw a group of old ladies standing outside with bags, so we walked down this stairs to this bakery which seemed to always be this crowded. The cornetti were really nice: sweet but not too sweet, and they had an orange taste to it. We devoured a bag of them on the plane ride back to Holland. Oh and can I talk about queuing in Rome? I got the impression that there is none. You push your way to the front, that's the queue. What was funny is that on this night, there was a group of Filipinas there (no queuing over there either, believe me), so the crowd was twice as pushy. Go to a popular Filipino seafood market sometime and you'll know what I'm talking about!
Chestnut vendor in the Campo de' Fiori. We all loved the roasted chestnuts in the street. The smell alone was worth the trip. All the vendors used these drum grills and the same yellow paper cones.
Another treat in the Campo de' Fiori. Pizza from the Forno Campo de' Fiori. Not quite street food like panzerotti, but still awesome. The little guy likes.
Hot chocolate at Tazzo d'Oro, near the Pantheon. Hey, the coffee here wasn't too shabby either.
Sundried tomatoes at the market.
And of course, ice cream. Who cares that it's winter? I didn't have anything quite like Grom, but I didn't have anything bad either.
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Madeleines, or if you prefer, teacakes
Several weeks ago, we took a short trip to Lorraine, France to check out some World War II historical sites, as well as to eat some quiche lorraine at the source. One thing I hadn't realized is that in the province of Lorraine is the town of Commercy, famous for madeleines. Madeleines are, of course, the famous little cakes that triggered the memories that triggered Proust's novel A la recherche de temps perdu, (Rememberance of Things Past). (And no, I'm not the preeminent Proust scholar in the country.)
I mentioned that we were going to the region where madeleines were invented to the 10-year-old. I told her they were the cute little shell-shaped cakes. She immediately recounted her Remembrance of Madeleines Past. "Oh yeah, madeleines. I remember we were in Starbucks once and you wouldn't buy one for me." Doh! So I let her know that, "Yeah, but now you get to have madeleines that are actually good."
Although we didn't get to Commercy, she was able to have one for dessert in the town of Verdun. While we were there, I went into a hardware store to buy a couple of madeleine tins. The ones that are tinned metal rather than non-stick are actually kind of hard to find here in Holland. Some of these local little hardware stores are really weird in rural France. Right next to vacuum cleaner bags, you might find a full array of Le Creuset cookware in all colors. Anyway, I found the tins (6 euros each!) and tried to find the checkout counter. First of all, let me say that this store clearly hadn't changed since 1964. And neither had its clientele. I was the only one there under the age of, oh, 60 or so. And did I mention the lighting was like it was a garage? And there was no heat on so the proprietors were wearing their winter coats? So after waiting in line for what seemed like forever, I had to ditch the pans and leave because 1) there didn't appear to be a cash register anywhere in site, and 2) Kyle was waiting outside for me with a screaming baby.
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find those same pans here-- only non-stick and silicone. So in the meantime, tiny tin brioche pans have had to do. So maybe these technically aren't madeleines then, but teacakes. They are a bit on the dense and slightly dry side (as true madeleines are), but I've given them a bit of an orange flavor, and they are really nice for dunking in coffee or tea, if you want to go all Proust on it.
These are really easy to make -- it is basically a standard genoise batter spooned into smaller molds. Have all ingredients at room temperature, particularly the eggs, as this is an important factor. As there is no leavener, make sure to beat the eggs until they've tripled in volume. They will give the cakes their lift. As a result, it's important to use the batter right away.
Teacakes not Madeleines Makes 24 teacakes
Ingredients 4 large eggs, room temperature 1/2 cup sugar zest from one orange pinch salt 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons butter, melted then cooled to room temperature
Preheat oven to 400 F. (200 C). Butter and flour the molds, generously. This is really important if you are using standard tins, but do it anyway if you are using non-stick because it will still make removal easier.
Combine the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer. Beat on medium-high until it has tripled in volume and a ribbon forms, about 3 minutes. Beat in the orange zest and salt.
Sprinkle one third of the flour over the egg mixture. Gently fold it in until combined. Repeat twice more, with the rest of the flour, being sure to fold as gently as possible.
Place the butter in a medium bowl. Stir in one third of the egg/flour mixture. Pour the butter/egg/flour mixture back into the rest of the batter, making sure, once again to fold as gently as possible.
Pour immediately into the molds. Bake for 10 minutes. Let the cakes cool in the molds for 5 minutes then remove to a rack. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve immediately.
We're having a lazy Thanksgiving. We live in Holland, where it's not a holiday, so everyone went to work, school, etc. So what are we eating? Chinese takeout. That said, we are going to celebrate proper Thanksgiving over the weekend, so you can forgive me for eating chow fun today.
In the meantime, I was looking at previous posts on Crispy Waffle, and have some suggestions if you haven't made dessert yet. Thanksgiving is one of those days where you want one of those 'ooh, ahh' desserts to hit the table. So here are some kickass tarts you can wow your family with. (And going along with my laziness theme, I will just link to the Crispy Waffle posts where the recipes are located.)
This linzertorte is both impressive and fast-- you can make it in a couple of hours, thanks to the sneaky cheaty lattice. Linzertorte with cheater's lattice
I haven't been doing a whole lot of ice cream experimenting lately, mainly because autumn has set in with a vengeance. You know it's fall when everyone riding their bikes in Den Haag have simultaneously busted out the ubiquitous wool scarves. (It's one of those things that makes you feel like the expat that didn't get the memo for the Opening Day of Scarf Season.)
However, I had been having an interesting correspondence with Grant, a Crispy Waffle reader all about ice cream makers and textural improvements to ice cream. A topic I've alluded to before, one of my issues with homemade ice cream is that it never seems to have the 'chew' that I want, especially after being in the freezer overnight. I've been upping the sugar-- especially basterd sugar, which contains invert sugar. Invert sugar is sweeter but has the same role as corn syrup; it does increase chewiness in baked goods, and seems to have a similar impact on ice cream. The sugar helps lower the freezing point, keeping it from being too icy. However, the ice cream was getting too sweet for my taste. I mentioned this to Grant, and he suggested an increase in milk solids through the use of dried milk powder. This was a total "oh yeah" moment for me-- I remembered reading here that milk solids also play a role in lowering freezing point, but had only accidentally accomplished this through the use of sweetened condensed milk in some recipes. So thanks to my new ice cream buddy, the texture of my homemade ice cream has dramatically improved. One of the things I love about having a blog is that it connects me to like-minded people. I have bored the hell out of people when they ask, "Do you like your ice cream maker?" and I go on a rant and rave about textural quality and invert sugar. This is a pretty good way to get someone to start eyeing escape routes in the room. Not so when you have an email thread with someone willing to rhapsodize about the virtues of Philadelphia-style ice cream versus custard-style, the ratios of cream to milk, and the texture of super-premium ice creams.
I don't have access to very 'neutral' flavored powdered milk, which Grant mentioned is important to usage in this case (you won't get that nasty dried-milk flavor invading your ice cream). I tend to use instead sweetened condensed milk and/or evaporated milk to increase the milk solids percentage, both of which have double to milk solids of ordinary milk. In the process, I've noticed that using other dairy products such as creme fraiche also naturally increases the percentage of milk solids in the mixture. Going further with this, I experimented with quark, a type of cheese that resembles a cross between sour cream and cream cheese. In fact, it is often used here in the Netherlands for making cheesecake.
The results were really nice, and resulted in an ice cream that tasted kind of like cheesecake as well. You can go with this theme, adding mix-ins that are 'cheesecakey': lemon zest, or graham crackers or cherry jam swirled in. If you don't have access to quark, you can substitute with equal parts sour cream and cream cheese. I love this ice cream with just a classic shortbread, which is super easy to make and in a way, resembles a cheesecake crust.
Quark ice cream makes about 1 quart
Ingredients 1 cup quark 3/4 cup whole milk 3/4 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup sugar 4 egg yolks pinch of salt zest from one lemon (optional)
In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the egg yolks and the sugar. Beat with whisk attachment over medium speed for 3 minutes or so, until the mixture is lightened and doubled in volume.
Heat the milk, cream and salt in a heavy saucepan over medium heat until just steaming. Add the milk mixture in a steady stream into the egg mixture, stirring with a hand whisk the entire time (so the eggs don't curdle).
Put the entire egg/milk mixture back into the saucepan and add the lemon zest, if using. Stirring constantly, heat over medium until the mixture reaches 175 degrees. (To use the old kitchen measure-- it'll be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon).
Pour through a strainer into a large bowl. Cool for just a couple minutes, then stir in the quark. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until very cold. (I like to leave it overnight or all day, when I can).
Freeze according to your ice cream maker's instructions. Freeze to let it ripen for a couple of hours, then serve with cookies, such as the classic shortbread, below.
Classic shortbread makes 1 8-inch pan of shortbread The is super buttery, so make sure you use really nice tasting butter, as there's not much else to compete with it.
Ingredients 150 grams (about 10 tablespoons) butter, at room temperature 1/4 cup powdered sugar, sifted 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1/4 cup cornstarch
Preheat oven to 300 F (150 C). Combine the butter, powdered sugar and granulated sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, and not grainy, about 2-3 minutes.
Sift the flour and cornstarch over the butter mixture and stir until blended. The dough should be rather dry, but should hold together. Press into an 8-inch baking pan. Using a fork, mark the outlines of your shortbread squares (to make it easier to cut later).
Bake for 45 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes and cut into squares.
Thursday, November 01, 2007
No cookie recipe for you!
Whenever it starts getting close to the holidays, I start thinking about cookies. Not that I don't think about cookies all the time, but I start thinking about specific cookies.
My favorite holiday cookies are butterhorns. They are crispy, sugary, and shaped like little baby croissants. Kind of like rugelach without the jam. My mom makes dozens and dozens of these every Christmas, to keep and give away as gifts, and they never lasted very long in our house.
I was just up on my Flickr account recently and saw some pictures I took many months ago of a batch of butterhorns I had baked with my mom's recipe. I had wanted to post te recipe here, but when I phoned my mom, she was like, "No, you are not posting my recipe."
I should have expected such a response. I've grown up with many Filipina cooks in my family, both on my dad's and mom's side, and every one is loathe to share recipes. When they do, you might as well throw the recipe away, because odds are they've left out 1) a crucial step, or 2) a crucial ingredient. As a result, your version of your Auntie's famed ensaimadas are too dry, or your pancit is just somehow a little bit off. I'm not sure what they're afraid of-- maybe that you will become the Pancit Queen of the family and their glory will be taken from them. They imagine you cackling and rubbing your hands together, "The pancit palabok fortune will be mine!"
My sister and mom have been begging my Auntie for her suman recipe for years. (Suman is a delicious sweet rice and coconut dessert, wrapped in banana leaves.) It's gotten to the point where, not only will she not give the recipe, but she's not about to let anyone watch her make it. Yes, it is clear we won't ever get our grubby hands on that recipe. Maybe she's doing the right thing; it has certainly elevated the suman to family fame status.
So no suman, ensaimada or butterhorns recipe will appear here these days, although here's a pic of said butterhorns to make you determined to get at it.
Just like I'm determined to publish my very own pancit recipe. hOh yes, I will be the Pancit Queen.
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
The best (and easiest) yeasted waffle
I've realized by the comments on my Perfect Waffle post that my actual go-to waffle recipe is hidden away in another post. Both involve yeast (of course-- don't make waffles without it!), but my first recipe involves separating the eggs and whipping the egg whites right before making the waffles. Eventually, I found this tiresome on a weekend morning when I haven't even had my coffee yet. So the recipe I actually use all the time involves combining all the ingredients and raising the batter in the refrigerator overnight. The waffles are still super crispy in the morning and you don't have to bust out a hand mixer! Perfect for a pre-coffee bleary-eyed Saturday morning.
The Easiest Crispiest Yeasted Waffles
Ingredients 2 cups flour 1-1/2 tsp instant yeast 1 stick melted butter (1/2 cup or 110 grams) 2 cups warm milk (heated to about 110 degrees) 2 eggs 2 tsp vanilla extract 1 tbsp sugar 1/2 tsp salt
The night before:
Combine and whisk together the dry ingredients in a large bowl: flour, yeast, sugar and salt.
Combine the melted butter and milk. Add the mixture to the dry ingredients.
Whisk eggs and vanilla together in a separate small bowl. Add the egg-vanilla mixture to the other mixture, and whisk until well-combined.
Cover with plastic wrap and stick in the fridge until tomorrow morning. (The batter can rise for 10 to 24 hours.)
The next morning:
Prepare waffle iron as usual. Stir the batter to deflate it (it should be puffy and frothy).
Add to waffle iron the same way you would other batter, keeping in mind that this batter will rise more than batters that use baking powder instead of yeast.
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Wacky ice cream 1: Sweet potato
So taking advantage of my new ice cream maker, I've decided to revisit some weirdo flavors I've been experimenting with over the years, back when I was using my plan-way-ahead-of-time Krups ice cream maker. I thought, "Why not a series?" so here's the first one.
I found a recipe for sweet potato ice cream in The Ultimate Ice Cream Book, but like all of Weinstein's recipes, I modified it. (I often find his recipes sickeningly sweet, and at times even cut the sugar to a quarter of what he calls for.) I liked his idea of roasting the sweet potatoes so that they caramelize, so this is how I started my recipe.
For whatever reason, the normal grocery stores in Holland don't seem to carry sweet potatoes, and when they do, it usually is the normal pale type rather than the sweeter bright orange varieties. Don't quiz me on the variety names-- I have no idea really, besides "orange" and "yellow". So anyway, they carry sweet potatoes / yams at the big open market, but being too lazy to go down there, I picked some up at the regular store for like, 3 euros a pound or something ridiculous. But given that it was going toward ice cream, I figured that perhaps it was worth the cost.
I started with what is developing into my standard custard base and mixed in the sweet potato puree that the four-year-old kitchen helper made with a strainer. (He was bored, I wasn't letting him watch TV or play Gameboy that afternoon, so what was a boy to do?) If you don't have a four-year-old kitchen helper, don't worry; you can use a food processor instead.
The result is a sweet ice cream that, for me, tastes like a cross between candied sweet potatoes and ube (purple yam). Those who eat it must be fans of sweet potatoes-- if they aren't, this recipe won't convert them. But if you love candied yams, this will taste heavenly.
Making sweet potato puree-- the old fashioned way
Sweet potato ice cream makes about 1 quart
Ingredients 2 pounds (about 1 kilo) sweet potatoes, the kind with the orange flesh (not orange skin) 1 cup whole milk 1-1/2 cup heavy cream 3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed 4 egg yolks 2 teaspoons vanilla
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Scrub the sweet potatoes, arrange in a baking dish and bake for 1 hour, or until the potatoes are tender enough to put a skewer through easily. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temp.
Combine the eggs and sugar in a standing mixer. Beat until lightened in color and a ribbon forms.
In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and cream to barely a simmer and slowly pour into the egg mixture, whisking the whole time to prevent the eggs from curdling. Transfer back into the saucepan.
Stirring constantly over medium-low heat, bring the mixture to 180 degrees. (It'll be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon). Remove from heat and add the vanilla
Peel the sweet potatoes. Add a pinch of salt, and using a sieve or a food processor, make a puree.
Strain the custard into the sweet potato puree and make sure it's well combined. Refrigerate for at least an hour.
Freeze according to the instructions on your ice cream maker. This ice cream tastes excellent with salted pecans!
Monday, June 25, 2007
SHF: Chocolate malt, perfected
My retro craving: notice that the straw stands up straight.
I like the theme of this month's Sugar High Fridays: Cravings. There are desserts I make a lot (like brownies because they are ridiculously easy and you get your chocolate and sugar fix instantly), and then there are others that if a craving hits me, I will run out -- meaning, I will make a special trip -- and get the ingredients.
Once the weather hits the no-long-sleeves point every summer, the first thing I want is a chocolate malt. I grew up in Milwaukee, where the fave frozen confection is frozen custard, a softer version of ice cream, and fattier than gelato. Man, it is soooo good. I honestly don't know why they don't have this stuff all over the U.S. (I am partial to Kopps-- this is where I would get my turtle sundae fix as a kid.) Chocolate malts are alive and well in the Midwest, like, real chocolate malts where: 1) it is so thick the straw stands up, and 2) they always, always give you the tin with the extra malt in it that was used in the shake blender. You know, because it's not fattening enough just to have the malt that's in the glass, right?
So where I live now (Europe) chocolate malts are non-existent, so I make my own. This way, I can also take total charge of the ingredients, so I'll use ice cream and chocolate syrup I made. And, of course, Horlicks malt powder which thankfully I can get at the British expat store. Don't use that Carnation stuff, which is super sweet and has chocolate powder in it and whatnot. Horlicks can be found, oddly enough, in a lot of Asian grocery stores. This is the stuff that will make you an addict. Oh, speaking of, as a kid I ate a lot of the Horlicks malt tablets, which were a type of candy. I cannot find this stuff anywhere! I wonder if anyone else craves this-- I know I didn't imagine it because my sister remembers them too.
There are purists who believe that chocolate malts should be made with vanilla ice cream, obtaining their chocolate flavor from just the syrup. I don't care either way; but I personally prefer it with vanilla ice cream just because it seems to taste like just the right ratio of chocolate to malt. Plus there's something about the chocolate that comes from a syrup that gives it that kitschy, retro soda fountain taste. (I don't know how else to explain it. But anyway, a premium, super chocolate ice cream is not going to get you that same nostalgic taste I'm talking about!)
So make a classic chocolate malt -- you won't be disappointed, even if you make it with store-bought vanilla and Hershey's syrup. For the love of Mike, don't use ice cubes. But make sure to use the Horlicks.
My ideal chocolate malt makes one large malt, or two short ones, if you want to share
Ingredients 3 scoops vanilla ice cream (my recipe for Philadelphia-style is here) 2 tablespoons chocolate syrup (recipe below) 1/2 cup whole milk (very very cold-- keep it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so) 3 tablespoons Horlicks malt powder
Pour the ingredients into a blender and pulse for 20-30 seconds.
Top with whipped cream and if you want to go seriously classic, a maraschino cherry.
Chocolate syrup I really like this chocolate syrup because it is not too sweet, but is still really chocolatey. I find commercial chocolate syrup too sugary. You can also use a tablespoon of this in a cup of hot milk to make quick hot chocolate.
Ingredients 1 cup water 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Combine the water and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk until the sugar has dissolved and bring to a slight simmer.
Add the cocoa and salt and whisk until smooth. Simmer lightly for about 3 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Let cool to room temperature. Keep in the refrigerator.
After I wrecked the freezer bowl on my Krups ice cream maker, I decided to get serious and spring for an ice cream maker with a compressor. This basically translates into an ice cream maker with its own freezer, so you can make ice cream whenever you want. After some research, I ended up with a Nemox Gelatissimo, which looks like some sort of miniature toilet. Yes, not the most attractive thing to have hogging up precious space on the kitchen counter.
Nemox Gelatissimo. Does it flush?
Anyway, it ended up being 220 euros which is a pretty good deal as this seems to usually go for about 400 euros. It seems like I'll have to make more than a few ice cream cones to make up for the cost, but hey, I have kids that loooove ice cream. Plus I can make all my weirdo flavors like corn, avocado, etc. that you can't get at the ice cream joint around the corner.
So now I am totally obsessed and have been making ice cream nearly every day. So I'm learning a lot-- I'm trying to perfect the texture, which is a much harder thing to do than get the flavorings and sweetness right. Ice cream is all about texture. So some things I've learned so far:
Too much butterfat will taste like, well, butterfat. Some Italian machines, like Simac, Nemox, etc. will churn a super fatty mixture into basically, butter. So a good balance of milk and cream is necessary.
Sugar does more than just make it sweet. Sugar also helps improve texture-- it prevents the mixture from getting too icy, and lowers the freezing point. If you are like me and are curious about food science, you can get your fill about ice cream science here. Because I live in Holland, I have access to this weird form of sugar called white basterd sugar (yes, it really is called basterd sugar, although spelled differently than, I don't know, Fat Bastard). I guess we can call this Sweet Basterd. So this Sweet Basterd is a sugar that is basically the texture of brown sugar, but white. Because it partially contains inverted sugar syrup, it makes for a 'chewier' ice cream, and this type of sweetener behaves a bit like corn syrup-- it depresses the freezing point even further. (Yes, food science again! I have to experiment with white basterd sugar for other goods that need 'chew', such as brownies. More on this later!)
White basterd sugar-- it looks a bit like shave ice, and it feels exactly like traditional brown sugar.
With these things to remember, I've been working on the perfect custard (for me, at least). I'm not there yet, but I have been able to develop my go-to chocolate ice cream recipe. This is way over the top on the chocolate, but without being too fatty; I use more milk than cream in this recipe. Try it if you want total chocolate flavor without it being too sweet.
I have been making ice cream and then letting it sit in the freezer for 2 hours before we eat it. I think it hardens up too much (our freezer is 15 degrees centigrade) past that point, but 2 hours in, the texture is that perfect chewy, a bit melty, gelato-y texture. (In the picture above, it had been in the freezer for 4-5 hours, so you can see that it has gotten more of that American style hard-scoop texture. But it was still good!)
Super Chocolatey Ice Cream makes approximately 1 quart
Ingredients 1-3/4 cups whole milk 1/4 cup Dutch-process cocoa, such as Droste 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 large egg yolks 1/2 cup white basterd sugar (if you don't have access to this, substitute 1/3 cup white granulated sugar) 3/4 cup heavy cream 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 2 teaspoons vodka (optional)
Combine the eggs and the sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer. Beat on medium-high speed until the mixture is lightened in color, and thickened, about 3 minutes.
In a heavy saucepan, bring the milk and salt to a simmer, whisk in the cocoa and simmer until the cocoa is dissolved.
Add the milk mixture to the egg mixture slowly, in a steady stream, whisking the whole time -- this tempers the eggs and keeps them from curdling. Place the milk/egg mixture back in the saucepan.
Over low heat, stir the mixture constantly, until it reaches 180 degrees F. Pour through a strainer into a clean bowl.
Place the chopped chocolate in a bowl. Bring the cream just barely to a boil in a saucepan and pour it over the chocolate. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir with a whisk until the mixture is totally smooth, with no chocolate pieces.
Pour the ganache into the custard. Refrigerate until cold, then freeze in an ice cream maker according to instructions.
I've decided to submit this recipe for SHF 31: Neutral Territory. The theme is sweets in shades of white. To be honest, I rarely make desserts that don't involve some form of chocolate (hey, I have a house full of chocolate addicts!) but this is one of my current favorite, creamy white desserts. Plus, what's whiter than coconut and cream?
A couple of weeks ago I found unsweetened shredded coconut at the Asian grocery store. This was a big deal because 1) I wasn't sure I could get it here, without shredding it myself, and 2) it was hella cheap. A bag the size of say, a box of cereal was 1.65 euro. So I bought half that-- it was 80 cents -- and I still have a huge plastic container of it. As a result of this bounty, I decided to work on coconut cream pie.
I inserted coconut into every element of the pie: the crust, the custard, and I put toasted coconut on the top. I usually dislike American coconut cream pie because it is made with sweetened coconut flakes (gross) and it doesn't taste much like real coconut. Rather, as Cooks Illustrated put it, it tastes more like suntan lotion. (Not that I eat suntan lotion, but you know what I mean!)
The resulting tart tasted sooo good and coconut-y, but I decided I wanted to totally put this over the top. And what's more over the top than adding caramel? So first, I added dulce de leche to the custard itself. This turned out okay, but not great. What was really strange was that this version came out tasting like Girl Scout Samoas cookies for some reason, even though there was no chocolate. Tasty, but not like, 'wow' tasty.
I then was like, "Why not just set the caramel over the crust, then put the custard over it?" This simplified things because if you have caramel or dulce de leche on hand (as I usually do- yeah, that's right) then all you have to do is heat it a bit and pour it over the crust without the annoyance of adding it to the custard. Voila! This was the over-the-top tart that I was looking for, and our dinner friends, Vanja, Ruth and Rachel approved (and requested the recipe, so here you go!)
Coconut caramel cream tart makes one 9-inch tart
Ingredients
For the coconut shortbread crust: 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (115 grams) 2 tablespoons grated coconut (NOT the sweetened kind!) 1/4 cup sugar (25 grams) 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 stick butter (110 grams), cold, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 egg yolk
For the filling: 1/2 cup dulce de leche, cajeta or caramel 1 can coconut milk (a 14 oz. or 400 gram can) 1 cup milk (240 ml) 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup grated coconut (50 grams) (the same unsweetened kind as above) 1/4 teaspoon salt 5 large egg yolks 1/4 cup cornstarch (30 grams) 1 tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the topping (this is optional; I personally like the tart without whipped cream, but most people I know prefer it with the cream): 1 cup cold heavy cream 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons grated unsweetened coconut, toasted in a dry pan until brown
Preparing the shortbread crust: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (180 degrees centigrade.) Butter a 9-inch tart pan or springform pan. (If using a springform pan, you can also line the bottom with parchment paper, then butter the parchment paper.) Combine the flour, coconut, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter, and using a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add the egg yolk and bring the mixture together with your hand until it forms a ball.
Pat the crust in the prepared pan. (It is a soft crumbly crust, so I've found that unless it is refrigerated for several hours, it is almost impossible to roll out.) Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork. Bake for 15-17 minutes, until the crust is golden but not totally brown. Set on a cooling rack and cool to room temperature.
The caramel: Warm the caramel a little and add a bit of water (if needed) to give it the consistency of honey. Pour the caramel on the cooled shortbread crust and tilt the crust so the caramel covers the entire bottom of the crust. Cool to room temperature.
The custard: Bring the coconut milk, milk, shredded coconut, sugar and salt to a slight simmer in a medium saucepan.
In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, cornstarch and 1 tablespoon sugar together. Slowly pour the warm milk mixture over the eggs, whisking the entire time (this tempers the eggs).
Transfer the mixture back to the saucepan. Stirring with a spoon or whisk, bring the mixture to a boil and boil for 1 full minute. Remove from heat and add the vanilla and butter. Stir until the vanilla is incorporated.
Transfer immediately to the pie crust and smooth the surface. Cover with cling wrap directly touching the custard. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
The topping: Refrigerate or freeze your mixing bowl and beaters for a half hour or so. Meanwhile, toast the coconut in a dry skillet over medium heat until golden brown. Set aside to cool.
Just before serving, place the cream and sugar in the mixing bowl and beat over medium-high speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, spread over the top of the tart. Sprinkle with toasted coconut and serve immediately.
Friday, January 19, 2007
SHF 27: Droste chocolate cake
This month's theme for Sugar High Friday is Chocolate by Brand. Initially I thought I would participate by making something with one of my favorite dark chocolates, Scharffen-Berger or Valrhona (since I can't get Scharffen-Berger here in Europe. Or, at least I don't know where to get it.) Here in Holland, it seems even the most common chocolate is really good. Even the local grocery store chain, Albert Heijn, has their generic house brand of chocolate produced by Callebaut, the prominent Belgian company. That said, the secret is that the French win in the chocolate department. All the worthwhile chocolate shops here seem to make their bon bons with Valrhona, a French chocolate. The Belgians may know their bon bons, but the French know their chocolate.
But the winners when it comes to cocoa are the Dutch. Know the term "Dutch cocoa"? Yep, that's right, it was actually invented here, in the 19th century by one Coenraad J. van Houten. 'Dutching' is a method in which the cocoa is processed to create a more alkaline product. (Cocoa has a naturally high level of acidity. with a pH of about 5.4.) This creates cocoa that is darker, milder and less bitter. To 'Dutch' cocoa, cocoa nibs are soaked in an alkaline solution that raises the pH level to 7. In the process, it becomes darker as well, as opposed to the 'grayer' color of non-Dutched cocoa. (Non-Dutch-processed cocoa is also referred to as 'non-alkalized'.)
The most famous of the Dutch cocoa brands is Droste. It also has the most famous branding, the nun/nurse (all I know is she is described in Dutch as verpleegster, which is nurse. I've never seen a nurse like that, but whatever.) She stands on the box, staring at you with her steely, cold blue eyes. The box on her tray also stares at you with the box's nurse's steely cold blue eyes. And on and on. (In Dutch, this visual 'infinity' effect is even known as 'The Droste effect'. Sorry, I'm a graphic designer, so I couldn't resist this piece of visual history.) I guess she's trying to hypnotize you with her chocolate drink.
But she doesn't need to hypnotize us because Droste is excellent cocoa. In my mind, it makes the best darkest, tastiest chocolate cake. Don't bother with actual chocolate in your basic American-style chocolate cake; cocoa is the way to go. (Save the good chocolate for where it'll matter, such as a flourless chocolate cake or a souffle.) Chocolate does weird stuff to the consistency and never seems to actually make a basic cake taste the most chocolatey. Cocoa on the other hand, gives intense chocolate flavor in cake without compromising the texture.
This cake I made for my son's daycare class. It's fantastic with chocolate buttercream, but for a group of 3-year-olds, I skipped the frosting and just dusted it with powdered sugar. I then filled it with a thin layer of vanilla bean buttercream. The whole thing is not too sweet-- which is just the way I like desserts. The leftovers were great with tea that afternoon.
Dark Chocolate Cake made with Droste Cocoa adapted from The Best Recipe
For the cake: 1 cup boiling water 1/2 cup Droste cocoa 2 teaspoons espresso powder 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature 1-1/4 cups granulated sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1-1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt powdered sugar, for dusting
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut out 2 parchment rounds that will fit in the bottoms of your two 8-inch cake pans. Grease the pans with butter. Place the parchment rounds in the bottoms of the pans, and grease them. Dust the pans with flour and tap out the excess.
Mix the cocoa and espresso powder and pour the boiling water and mix until smooth. When it's cooled to room temperature, add the vanilla.
Whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
Beat butter in electric mixer set to medium-high speed about 30 seconds. Gradually add sugar and beat until the mixture is fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, beating one minute after each addition. Scrape down the bowl.
With mixer on the lowest speed, add 1/3 of the flour mixture, followed immediately by 1/3 of the cocoa mixture; mix until the ingredients are almost incorporated into the batter. Repeat process twice more. Scrape down the bowl and beat for another 30 seconds.
Pour the batter evenly divided into the cake pans. Bake for 20 minutes until a toothpick comes out with just a few crumbs clinging to it. Cool in the pans on wire rack for 10 minutes. Run knife to loosen cake from pans and invert cakes, peeling off parchment paper. Turn the cakes right side up and cool entirely. Prepare the frosting.
Vanilla bean buttercream: 2 large eggs 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1 vanilla bean, scraped 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 8 pieces
Bring a pan of water to a simmer. Combine the eggs, sugar, vanilla bean contents and salt in bowl of standing mixer and set over the simmering water. Whisk constantly to keep the eggs from curdling. Continue whisking until the mixture is foamy and is 160 degrees on an instant read thermometer.
Set the bowl in the stand mixer and beat with a whisk attachment on medium-high speed until the mixture is light and airy, about 5 minutes. Reduce speed to medium, and add butter one piece at a time until each piece is incorporated. (Keep adding the butter, even if it starts looking curdled; it'll correct itself once all the butter is added.)
Frost the inside layer of the cake. You can freeze the rest of the buttercream for another recipe. (To thaw, set at room temperature until softened.)
Use a paper doily or cut paper into shapes for dusting powdered sugar on the top of the cake.
Monday, January 15, 2007
Linzertorte with cheater's lattice
Sometimes I get obsessed. Then I feel restless until I do something about it. Over the past few days it has been creating a lattice-top for a tart. I think maybe it was spurred by seeing a really awesome looking tart in one of my favorite cookbooks, Baking With Julia. Or maybe it was all the appeltaart I've been baking lately, complete with half-assed tic-tac-toe-board-looking lattices on top. Or maybe I just want all my baked goods to somehow resemble waffles. I don't know. But I decided I had to fix this trivial problem by making the most classic of lattice-topped desserts, a linzertorte. The linzertorte (according to Wikipedia, where I lazily do all my research) is generally considered "the oldest cake in the world". Yeah, I guess, if a cake looked like a pie. But whatever. After baking it for friends this weekend, I realized that a linzertorte has other things going for it, namely, the amazing smell it gives off while baking. It's all spicey and cinnamony and buttery, and there is not a Yankee damn candle in the world that can duplicate it. I decided before it even came out of the oven that I would be making this tart again, even if it tasted like cat food. But thankfully, it was delicious too (especially with vanilla whipped cream), which gave it that extra advantage as a keeper recipe.
But back to the lattice. I wanted something that didn't just smell good and taste good. I wanted to make it look good, like one of those pies in the cartoons that would be cooling on the windowsill until a hobo came by and stole it. So this meant making a proper lattice. What I realized is that the trick to making a proper lattice top is to not make it properly at all. I always thought I would have to weave the strips like a basket, in which case they start falling apart and before you know it, you have a disaster of little square dough pieces. The fakey lattice has a design that starts with a giant 'X' in the middle, and the rest of the strips positioned around it. (See my photo of the completed tart, since I was bad about documenting it as I was working.) Sneaky you-- no one will be the wiser! And to make things even easier, cut the dough into strips and freeze the strips for 20 minutes and you won't have any melting or frustrating tears, followed by you in frustrated tears.
Linzertorte adapted from Cooks Illustrated with modifications makes one 9-inch tart
Ingredients For the dough: 1/2 cup toasted almonds (40 grams) 1 cup toasted walnuts (about 100 grams) 1/2 cup sugar (100 grams) zest from 1 lemon 1 teaspoon salt 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour (150 grams) 1/4 teaspoon allspice 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (175 grams), cut into 1/2 cubes 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the filling: 3/4 cup raspberry preserves (about 300 grams) 1 tablespoon juice from a lemon
Glaze: 1 tablespoon cream
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Cut a round of parchment paper to fit the removable base. Place in the tart pan and butter the parchment paper as well.
Combine the walnuts, almonds, sugar and salt in a food processor and process until finely ground. Add the lemon zest and process just a bit more, until combined.
Turn the mixture into a large bowl and add the flour, allspice and cinnamon. Cut the butter into the flour mixture with a pastry knife until it resembles coarse meal. Whisk the egg and vanilla together and add to the flour mixture. Use your hand to combine until the dough comes together.
Turn the dough onto some cling wrap and divide into three equal pieces. Combine two of the pieces into a single ball, flatten into a 5-inch disk, wrap in cling wrap and place in the refrigerator.
Place the third piece on the tart pan bottom (which is lined in the parchment paper), cover with a piece of cling wrap and roll out the dough until it is the size of the tart pan bottom. Remove the cling wrap and place the tart bottom in the tart pan. Place on a baking sheet, prick holes into the dough with a fork and bake the tart bottom for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool to room temperature. (This prebaking keeps the bottom of the tart from getting soggy when the filling is added.)
For the filling, mix together the raspberry preserves with the lemon juice and set aside until needed.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Now to make the sides of the tart. Break off one-third of it and with your hands roll it into a rope about 3/8-inches in diameter. Press it into the sides of the tart pan (the dough is very forgiving) until you have the sides all the way around.
Set the remainder of the dough onto parchment paper. Roll the dough into a 9-inch square, approximately. Cut into strips that are 3/4-inches wide. You should have at least 10 strips. (You'll probably have extra just in case.) Slide the parchment paper with the dough on it onto a baking sheet, cover loosely with a sheet of parchment and freeze for 20 minutes.
Spread the preserves mixture evenly onto the tart.
Take the dough strips out of the freezer and invert. Carefully remove the dough strips as you are making the lattice on the top of the tart. Start with an 'X' in the middle, and alternate the strips around it to create the lattice pattern.
Brush with heavy cream. Place the tart on a baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes. Cool on wire rack for 1 hour and serve with vanilla whipped cream.
Instructions for creating the lattice pattern. Just overlay the strips in the order above.
The NY Times ran a story on one of my obsessions, dulce de leche, the other week. I finally got up the nerve to do the can-of-condensed-milk-boiled-til-it-turns-into-caramel trick. This is even though the story started with an account of an exploding can of condensed milk-- which has been my fear whenever I've thought about doing it. But no matter. Now I had a set of easy instructions and honestly, since having a baby, I don't have time or patience to stand around and stir a saucepan of cajeta for an hour. The can method is just as time consuming, but a lot less maintenance. I wouldn't recommend leaving the house while it's simmering away though-- unless you like the idea of caramel-colored walls in your kitchen.
Can o' dulce de leche adapted from the New York Times
Ingredients: 1 can sweetened condensed milk, label removed
Set the can of condensed milk in a large saucepan or stockpot and cover with water by at least an inch. Bring the water to a boil and reduce heat until just simmering. Simmer for 3-4 hours, making sure that the water always covers the can entirely. (I'm assuming that it is the change in pressure if the can is not completely covered that would cause it to explode.). Remove from heat and allow the can to cool for at least an hour before opening.
Use it to top something, or better yet, just eat it straight out the can. Classy!
Friday, January 05, 2007
Appeltaart: apple pie, Dutch stylie
Although this is a post from long ago, I decided it's just the thing for SHF 34: Going Local. Enjoy!
I hate to admit it, but I don't really like apple pie. I don't care how American it is. Basically, I have worked on apple pie to make it so I would like it: I perfected a butter crust, I took away all that cinnamon that usually takes over the filling (this is an improvement-- I use copious amounts of vanilla instead), and tinkered with the type of apple used. I managed to make improvements but never got around to really liking it, so on top of all that, I smother it with vanilla ice cream.
But then I met appeltaart. Appeltaart and coffee is like, practically an afternoon ritual in Holland. This is basically the Dutch version of apple pie, and it is totally Dutch in so many ways. It is totally practical; it's not pretty, like a French tart tatin. And it's basically designed to go with coffee-- and let me tell you, the Dutch? They love their coffee, man. So it has a few things going for it. But for me, what makes all the difference in the world is the crust. Rather than a traditional American style pie crust, appeltaart typically has a sugary shortbread-like crust. The filling typically has apples, huge amounts of cinnamon (again) and raisins (ickers). Because of these filling flaws, I set out to make my own appeltaart. Recipes vary hugely, much more, it seems than with American apple pie recipes. But after a lot of trial and error (such as recipes that called for self-rising flour, and one that called for zero liquid in the crust dough!) I think I've come up with the right combination. I added a bit of orange zest to the crust because I had mandarin oranges on hand, and was just like, "What the hey? Let's try this..." Turns out the taste is excellent with the apples. Serve this with sweetened whipped cream and you won't think the same way about apple pie again.
Dutch Appeltaart makes one 9-inch taart
For the crust: 2 cups all-purpose flour (300 grams) 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar (150 grams) zest from one mandarin orange 1 teaspoon salt 12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (about 175 grams), cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 egg 1 slice white bread, processed into breadcrumbs in a food processor
For the filling: 2 pounds apples (I like Granny Smith for its texture and tartness) 4 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla
The dough before it goes into the fridge.
Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper. Combine the flour, brown sugar, orange zest and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and cut it into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. (Alternatively, use a food processor.) Stir in the egg with a fork, then use your hands to knead the mixture until it resembles, well, a ball of dough. Flatten the dough into a 6-inch disk, wrap in cling wrap and place in refrigerator for at least an hour.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll out 3/4 of the dough between two sheets of cling wrap to about a 13-inch circle (set aside the other 1/4 of the dough for the top of the tart). Set it into the springform pan. Don't worry if it tears; the dough is really forgiving, so just pat it into the bottom and sides of the pan. Scatter the breadcrumbs along the bottom of the tart crust. Place it into the refrigerator while preparing the filling.
Core and peel the apples. Divide each apple into 16 slices. (Place the apples in a bowl of ice water so they don't turn brown.) Drain the apple slices and combine with the cornstarch, salt, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla.
Roll out the remaining crust dough into strips to create a lattice-like top. (Don't worry about making it perfect-- it'll sort of 'melt' in the oven anyway.)
Place the apple mixture (but make sure not to include the accumulated liquid) into the tart crust and lay the lattice-dough-strips on top.
Bake in preheated oven for 50 minutes. Remove and cool on a cooling rack-- once it's cooled to room temperature, remove the springform sides. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.
Monday, November 20, 2006
Chocolate butter cookies
Love it or dread it, Christmas cookie season is upon us. When I was growing up, my mom would go on a baking frenzy around the holidays, making dozens of different kinds of cookies: butterhorns (my absolute favorites), spritz cookies, thumbprints, crumbly almond cookies, the list goes on and on. Because I don't have the patience that my mom has (she is the most patient person in the world, but the gene pool from my dad's side is anything but), I'm not about to sit down with a cookie gun squirting out tiny little spritz cookies (I will buy those from the bakery, thank you!).
So here's an easy cookie with two qualities I want: 1) chocolatey goodness, and 2) ease of use. All you need is great ingredients: a good cocoa, such as Droste and good quality butter. Espresso powder and salt enhance the chocolatey flavor (whenever I bake anything with chocolate, I will almost always add either espresso or espresso powder). If you split up the dough, you can have cookies fresh out of the oven for most of the week. Yum.
Twinkle twinkle, baby, twinkle twinkle
Chocolate butter cookies Adapted from Cooks Illustrated Makes about 3 dozen cookies
Ingredients: 1/2 cup cocoa 2 teaspoons espresso powder 250 grams unsalted butter (about 2-1/4 sticks butter), at room temperature 1 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 large egg yolks 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour Chopped walnuts for decorating (optional)
Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter and stir in the cocoa and espresso powder until it forms a smooth paste. Let sit for 15 minutes to cool.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the sugar, salt, remaining butter and chocolate paste. Mix on high speed until fluffy, about 1 minute, scraping down sides when necessary. Add yolks and vanilla and mix at medium speed for 30 seconds. Scrape down sides of the bowl.
Run mixer at low and add flour in three additions, making sure mixture is combined before adding next addition, and scraping down bowl between additions.
Turn dough onto counter and divide into 3 four-inch disks. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Roll out dough disk to 1/8-inch thick between cling wrap (on the bottom) and a sheet of parchment paper (on the top). (Alternatively, you can roll the dough between two sheets of parchment paper, but I find this impossible to keep from sliding around on the counter top.) Turn the rolled-out dough over, so the parchment paper is on the bottom and the cling wrap is on the top. Peel off the cling wrap and cut the dough into shapes using cookie cutters. If you want to add walnuts (as I've done-- it's an easy way to decorate the cookie), place on the cookies before baking.
Bake on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper for 8-10 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through baking. Make sure not to overbake-- do not let the cookies become too dark on the edges. Cool on cookie sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack. When cool you can glaze or decorate with melted white chocolate.
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
Waffles, not shortcakes
The Belgians are onto something. Everywhere in Brussels you see people carrying around little plates of luikse wafels with strawberries and whipped cream on top. Messy and delicious. I bought some fresh strawberries the other day and decided to recreate this favorite street food. I usually make biscuits for strawberry shortcake, but for me, this is an even easier dessert because, naturally, I almost always have waffle batter on hand. Not to say I dislike shortcake; in fact, I love it. I just love waffles more.
Strawberry Cream Waffles serves 4
For the strawberries: 2 pints fresh strawberries 3 tablespoons sugar a pinch of sea salt
For the whipped cream: 1 cup heavy cream 2 teaspoons vanilla 1 tablespoon sugar
Quarter the strawberries, and take 1/3 of them and mash with a fork. Combine the mashed strawberries with the quartered strawberries and sprinkle with the sugar and salt. Allow to macerate for about a half hour.
Preheat your waffle iron. Prepare the waffles as directed and keep warm in a 200-degree oven.
Place the heavy cream, sugar and vanilla in a stand mixer. Mix on low speed until bubbles form, then raise the speed to medium-high. The cream will start leaving a path. Continue mixing until the cream is light and airy, but make sure not to mix too long or you'll end up with butter.
Plate the waffles and top with the strawberries and whipped cream.
Wednesday, September 20, 2006
Chocolate walnut tart with cajeta (surprise!)
For my first time participating in the Food Blogger event Sugar High Friday, I settled on a tart that I make every now and then. The theme is "surprise"-- as in surprise ingredient or filling.
What I didn't realize about this tart is that whenever I make this, guests are pleasantly surprised that what appears to be a chocolate tart with walnuts is really a caramel tart with a thin topping of chocolate ganache. And you can't beat the combination of chocolate and caramel! (And for those who love walnuts, this tart is the best.)
This was originally a recipe for a chocolate caramel walnut tart out of Cooks Illustrated (my favorite cooking mag), but I've adjusted it in a number of ways. Ever since I mastered making cajeta, the Mexican version of dulce de leche, I try to keep some on hand (for what else? waffles, of course). This is my favorite caramel: it gives an extra layer of flavor that comes from that cinnamon-y, extra-milky flavor and texture that only cajeta has (and dulce de leche possesses as well, sans cinnamon). I also salt the walnuts and the ganache because salt is soooo good with caramel, and I've cut the amounts for the ganache because, well, a 9-inch tart shell just didn't seem to have enough room for the ingredients called for.
Another thing I really like about this tart is that the crust slices perfectly. I know that seems trivial, but anyone who's tried to slice a good ol' American fruit pie in front of company will understand why this is important-- if you want actual slices rather than a pile of crust and filling on a plate, then have a go at this tart.
Chocolate walnut tart with cajeta makes one 9-inch tart
For extra tasty walnuts, take all the walnuts in the recipe and toast in a 350-degree oven for about 8 minutes.
Ingredients Tart crust: 1/2 cup toasted walnuts, chopped 1/2 cup powdered sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 large egg, separated 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
Cajeta and walnut filling: 1-1/2 cups cajeta (my recipe is here), or dulce de leche 1 cup toasted walnuts, chopped, sprinkled with a pinch of salt
Chocolate ganache: 1 egg yolk 4-ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 1 tablespoon plus 1/4-cup heavy cream 1/4 cup whole milk pinch of salt 1 tablespoon of butter 16 walnut halves, toasted and sprinkled lightly with salt
Instructions For tart crust:
Whisk the egg white in a small bowl until frothy. Lift out 1 tablespoon of the egg white and transfer to the egg yolk. Add vanilla to the egg yolk and whisk until combined. (Set aside the remaining egg white in the fridge-- you will use it later to 'seal' the crust.)
Combine the walnuts and powdered sugar in a food processor and grind until well-combined. Add the flour and salt and process until combined. Add the cold butter until it resembles coarse bread crumbs.
Add the egg yolk mixture to the food processor and run until the dough forms a ball.
Remove and shape into a 6-inch disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and set in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes, lightly flour two large sheets of cling wrap. Set the dough disk on one sheet, then cover with the other. Roll out dough with a rolling pin into a 13-inch sheet. Set on a baking sheet in the freezer for 15 minutes.
Remove dough from freezer and peel off top layer of cling wrap. Overturn into a greased 9-inch tart pan. This dough is really forgiving, so just pat it into the pan and use the scraps that hang over the edges to make sure the crust is solid without holes or patches. Refrigerate crust in tart pan for 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place refrigerated tart pan on a baking sheet. Set a piece of foil in the crust and place pie weights in it, distributing evenly. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and pie weights and bake for an additional 10 minutes.
Remove the tart shell from the oven and cool the whole thing, baking sheet and all on a cooling rack. Brush the inside of the tart shell with the reserved egg white from earlier.
For the cajeta and walnut filling:
You should have approximately 1-1/2 cups of cajeta. Either let it sit at room temperature for a half hour or so, or heat it in the microwave for about 30 seconds to soften it a bit. Add the 1 cup of toasted walnuts.
Pour the filling into the cooled tart shell, spreading evenly.
For the chocolate ganache:
Whisk the egg yolk with the one tablespoon of cream. Set aside.
Place the milk and 1/4-cup cream in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer.
Remove from heat and add the chocolate and butter. Cover for 2 minutes. Use a spatula to stir the contents until you have a smooth chocolate mixture.
Stir in the egg yolk mixture until smooth.
Pour the mixture over the caramel filling in the tart shell, covering the whole thing.
Preheat oven to 300 degrees and bake for 25 minutes until the filling is still shiny and a bit wobbly.
Arrange the salted toasted walnut halves around the perimeter of the tart.
Cool on a cooling rack for 30 minutes, then refrigerate, uncovered, for 3 hours.
I admit it: I'm a bit of a snob when it comes to chocolate. I love French chocolate, especially Valrhona, and will eat it whenever possible. (My favorite American chocolate is Scharffen-Berger, which I think can compete with the best of European chocolates.) However, I am also unbelievably cheap, so I don't believe in wasting an exceptional eating chocolate on just any baked good. For example, brownies and chocolate-chocolate-chip cookies benefit from a mellower chocolate such as standard semi-sweet chips because a good American brownie seems to require a bit of that sweetness. And there is too much flour in these baked goods to allow the chocolate itself to really shine. I'll stick with good ol' Ghirardelli bittersweet chips for these treats.
Souffles, on the other hand, are a different story. In a proper chocolate souffle, there is nearly nothing to compete with the flavor of the chocolate, so this is where an outstanding chocolate can really make a difference. To give it the most intense chocolate taste, it should be a bitter chocolate that has at least 70% cacao content. (For those who aren't faint of heart, gourmet chocolate manufacturers such as Dagoba, have chocolate bars with cacao content as high as 90%.) The souffle I love is traditional; it has an egg base (utilizing both yolks and whites) and some sugar, Grand Marnier and vanilla added (although the last two can be left out if all you really want is chocolate). Souffles have an unfair reputation for being difficult to make, but once you've made one, you realize that it's not difficult; it's just timing that matters-- it should be popped in the oven at once, and then when finished bakng, removed from the oven and eaten at once if you want it to maintain that grand look (it's true-- souffles deflate almost instantly once removed from the heat).
Serve it straight up if you want a head-spinning hit of chocolate. Or if that's a bit too much of an overdose, then top it with sweetened creme fraiche.
This one didn't rise as much as usual-- I think it may be because I had the rack on the lower part of the oven, rather than the middle like I usually do. But, it was good anyway.
Intense Dark Chocolate Souffle
Ingredients 1 tablespoon butter, softened, and 1 tablespoon sugar (for preparing the souffle dish) 8 oz. 70% cacao content bittersweet chocolate (I recommend Valrhona, Scharffen-Berger and Dagoba, but any of your favorite eating chocolate will do) 4 tablespoons butter 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 6 egg yolks 1/3 cup sugar 8 egg whites 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Have rack in the center of the oven.
Butter a 2-quart souffle dish with the 1 tablespoon butter. Make sure the butter covers every surface. Sprinkle the 1 tablespoon sugar over the entire inner surface and rim of the dish. Place the dish in the refrigerator while you prepare everything else.
Melt the chocolate with the 4 tablespoons butter in a double boiler over low heat. Remove from heat and add the Grand Marnier, salt and vanilla. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool to just warm.
In a standing mixer, beat the egg yolks with the sugar at medium speed for about 3-4 minutes, until pale yellow and a bit thick. Stir into the chocolate mixture.
Clean out the mixer bowl (really well) and beat the egg whites at medium-high speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat on high until it forms stiff, but not dry peaks.
Stir one-fourth of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then gently fold in the rest. Then transfer to the prepared souffle dish.
Bake until the souffle has risen and the center is moist but set, about 25 to 28 minutes. (You can check this by inserting a wooden skewer in the side at a 45 degree angle, and it should come out not wet, but with moist chocolate clinging to it.
Sprinkle powdered sugar over the top if you like, and serve immediately.
Folding the egg whites into the chocolate mixture with a spatula
Anyone who has eaten waffles with me (yes, there are enough of you out there!) knows that I am not a fan of chemical leaveners when it comes to the mighty waffle. As evidenced by my fave waffle recipes, I always use good old-fashioned yeast for an overnight rise if I want waffles in the morning (or an all-day rise if we're having waffles for dessert after dinner).
However, I understand that this is not always practical, especially when you wake up in the morning, groggy-eyed, craving waffles with your morning coffee. I make waffles at least once a week, and I still sometimes forget to put the batter on the night before. So we end up having pancakes instead, which are still delish but sadly, not the same.
I decided that I needed to find a practical wake-up-in-the-morning-craving-waffles recipe, that utilizes those very chemical leaveners (i.e. baking soda and baking powder). I've tried many recipes that have let me down-- even the typically foolproof Best Recipe had a shoddy recipe, resulting in the same dense, soggy consistency as in every other recipe. (And to make up for this, they actually suggest to use cornmeal in the batter to add crunch. Blasphemy!) I was getting desperate.
Then I came across Alton Brown's basic waffle recipe from his episode about waffles. (After I met AB, I had actually emailed his production company requesting a waffle episode, and lo and behold, they came through! However, I was extremely disappointed-- there was not a single recipe -- or mention -- of using yeast to raise waffles. Even AB let me down. I guess my crusade continues solo.) AB's basic waffle recipe uses the same basics as a good pancake: buttermilk, baking powder and baking soda acting as the raising agents. But, wisely, Alton adjusts the ratios with the understanding that a waffle is fundamentally different from a pancake. (As an aside, I had never understood the term 'waffle and pancake mix' which is used for almost all mixes you find in the grocery store -- and, no they do not typically adjust the ratios.)
Because he gets this distinction straight, his waffle recipe actually works, and produced the first genuinely crispy waffle I've ever made using buttermilk and chemical leaveners. I was psyched to have an alternative to an overnight batter. Keep in mind though: you must eat these waffles immediately, or they lose their crispness. Ten minutes out of the iron they will end up reminding you of those insipid diner waffles you were trying to avoid. As a recipe adjustment I did not use whole wheat flour-- why try to make a waffle healthy? If I want a healthy breakfast I'll eat muesli.
I know the Belgians eat waffles with powdered sugar, or whipped cream and fruit. I like it (especially as street food), but for breakfast I am American through and through: I just want to see syrup and butter on my plate. Serve these with good maple syrup. I am in paradise since our good friend Jason left Holland-- in his moving chaos, he gave Kyle a huge bottle of Grade A Dark Amber maple syrup from Trader Joe's that he had in his fridge. Maple syrup is hard to come by here (they prefer this vile molasses-like concoction called stroop instead), and dark amber is almost impossible to come by as expat and gourmet stores only seem to stock the more expensive light amber, which has less maple-y taste. So we'll miss you Jason but thanks for the syrup!
Basic Buttermilk Waffles adapted from Good Eats
2 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 3 whole eggs 1/4 cup butter (half a stick), melted and cooled slightly 2 cups buttermilk at room temperature
Preheat the waffle iron while you set about making the batter.
Whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and sugar in a large bowl.
Separate the eggs. Whisk the yolks with the melted butter in a small bowl (make sure the butter is cooled enough that it won't curdle the yolks). Whisk the egg whites into the buttermilk. Pour the butter/yolks into the buttermilk mixture and whisk well.
Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir until combined. Allow the mixture to rest for 5 minutes.
I can't believe I haven't posted in nearly a month. Well, actually, I can. My mother-in-law died a couple of weeks ago, so we made a whirlwind emergency trip to Montana, U.S. of A. (Believe me, getting an international flight from Amsterdam at the height of the tourist season, even with a bereavement reason, was no small feat.)
Her death was sudden, and related to the Type 1 diabetes she had been living with for nearly three decades. As someone who enjoys their sugar, I always felt for Yvonne, knowing that once you have diabetes, dessert is a different matter altogether (both my grandmothers had late-onset diabetes as well, so I'm unfortunately familiar with the diet changes that come with it.)
This made my mom-in-law that much more remarkable. She continued to bake tons and tons of sweet cakes and breads for the kids and me, as well as for the rest of the family and her circle of friends. The willpower that must've taken: all that sugar in the oven and not having a taste. What a great lady!
Just a few weeks ago, I tried a recipe that had been making the rounds in Seattle-- it is the rhubarb cake that China's President Hu had for dessert at Bill Gates' house. The Seattle Times published the recipe, so I tried it. Unfortunately, I have to say, it came out awful. The methodology was really unconventional from the beginning to the end, and it had kind of a weird set of ingredients (who uses that much powdered sugar within a cake? and egg whites rather than whole eggs?) Anyway, this recipe only made me long for a rhubarb bread that Yvonne would send us every few months, and after I threw out President Hu's rhubarb cake, I wished I were able to eat her delicious bread instead.
After the funeral, my sister-in-law Danelle was looking through Yvonne's recipe files while I was in the kitchen and she found the rhubarb bread recipe. (Unfortunately, she wasn't able to find the granola recipe, which, after Yvonne found out I loved it, would also send, along with all the rhubarb bread.) I made it a few days ago and Kyle was like, "Yeah, that's my mom's legacy, right there."
So here's the recipe from my lovely mother-in-law. We'll miss her terribly, but it's nice to know we'll have little things like this to remember her by.
Yvonne's Rhubarb Bread Makes 2 8-1/2 x 4-1/2 loaves
Ingredients 1 cup buttermilk 1/2 cup salad oil (I assumed this meant just a light-colored oil, such as canola oil) 1 egg 2-1/2 cups flour 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 cup chopped walnuts, toasted 2 cups rhubarb, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces (this is approximately 2 stalks)
For streusel topping: 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter (room temperature)
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line the bottoms of two loaf pans with parchment paper.
Combine the ingredients for the streusel topping, mashing it together with a fork until it resembles breadcrumbs. Set aside.
Combine the wet ingredients: buttermilk, oil and egg and whisk together with a fork.
Whisk together the flour, sugar, salt and baking soda. Pour in the wet ingredients and stir until combined. Fold in the rhubarb and walnuts.
Pour into the two loaf pans and sprinkle with the streusel topping (there is a lot of the topping, but use all of it because this is what makes a crispy crust on top.)
Bake for 60 minutes or until a toothpick comes out with moist crumbs clinging to it. Cool in the pans.
The resulting bread is more like a moist, sweet cake with a crispy crunch from the cinnamon topping. When served warm it is delicious with excellent vanilla ice cream.
Friday, June 09, 2006
Having your (cup)cake and eating it two (ways)
Yeah I know, terrible terrible title! But I couldn't help myself. So I apologize anyway. Sorry!
Having found cupcake wrappers at the British expat store (of course it took me a while because they call it 'muffin cases', how un-American of them!) I've been psyched to start working on cupcakes again. This baking frenzy was spurred a few weeks ago when I was asked, by a fellow Seattlelite, which cupcake at Cupcake Royale was my favorite. As always when I'm talking with Seattlelites, I had to apologetically confess that actually, no, I didn't eat cupcakes at Cupcake Royale anymore because the level of sweetness makes me incredibly sick. I am always met with a totally incredulous look, and I always feel bad about this admission because let me tell ya, Seattlelites love themselves some Cupcake Royale. The problem is that in Seattle, Cupcake Royale is the only game in town; I think there needs to be some friendly competition in that space!
That said, I actually like their cake part of the cupcake quite a bit: it's got that crispy top 'lip' that is special about cupcakes as opposed to regular cakes. The part that I can't deal with is the frosting: it is truly, stickily, sickeningly sweet. I found out that it is what is known as 'American buttercream' or for those who are sticklers about accuracy, an American butter frosting (since it doesn't involve the creaming of eggs and butter that a classic buttercream has). An American buttercream consists of butter, flavoring such as vanilla or chocolate or whatever, and copious amounts of powdered sugar to give it a creamy consistency and sweet taste. Too sweet, in my opinion. But, I know there are people out there who like it, and who've grown up on American cakes and frostings. I actually have a beautiful mother who loves to bake, so we grew up either eating her cakes, or cakes she bought at Filipino bakeries. The taste in Filipino desserts is far less sweet than the typical American dessert, so preference is basically, (literally) a matter of taste.
I made a batch of yellow cupcakes and gave them two different frosting treatments: a chocolate American buttercream, and a classic chocolate Swiss meringue buttercream. I prefer eating the meringue buttercream because you can more easily control the sugar, as the texture is not dependent on the amount of sugar used, as it is in an American buttercream. But honestly, the butter + powdered sugar method is incredibly easy and worth doing if you don't have the time to do a classic buttercream (and don't mind copious amounts of powdered sugar.)
The cake I made is a favorite: you'll find it's the easiest recipe there is (I based it on a recipe from Cooks Illustrated), and it's great especially for a meringue buttercream because the icing gives you a use for the egg whites you would otherwise discard. Also, if you fill the cups up enough you will get that crispy 'lip' on the edges of the cupcakes. Delish!
Vanilla Cupcakes makes 12 cupcakes
Ingredients 1-1/2 cups all purpose flour 3/4 cups sugar 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, room temperature 1/2 cup sour cream 1 large egg, room temperature 2 large egg yolks, room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 350 degrees with the oven rack in the middle position. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with cupcake wrappers.
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.
Cream together the butter and sugar until light colored and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Add the egg, egg yolks and vanilla and beat at medium speed until thoroughly incorporated.
Add the sour cream and beat until incorporated.
Add the flour mixture and beat until just incorporated.
Spoon the mixture into the muffin cups and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean, about 20 minutes.
Remove and cool to room temperature on a rack, about 45 minutes. In the meantime, prepare the frosting of your choice.
Buttercream 1: Chocolate American Buttercream For this recipe, I tried to cut down a bit on the confectioners' sugar that is normally called for in a typical recipe, but don't take it down any further because it will affect texture. If you like a less sweet frosting, try the Meringue Buttercream below.
Ingredients 2 sticks (1 cup) butter 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted in a double boiler and cooled to room temperature 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 tablespoon milk 1-1/2 cups confectioners' sugar
In a stand mixer, beat butter until smooth and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Add chocolate and stir until just combined with a rubber spatula.
Add milk, vanilla and sugar. Beat at medium speed until just combined. (be careful not to overbeat).
Frost the cupcakes with an offset spatula.
Cupcakes with chocolate American buttercream
Buttercream 2: Chocolate Swiss Meringue Buttercream This buttercream is definitely more of a pain in the neck to make, but it has its advantages over the easy recipe above: it has a super creamy texture that you can't achieve with confectioners' sugar, it can be adjusted for sweetness while still maintaining its creamy texture, and it doesn't get crusty like a confectioners' sugar icing. Also, it actually uses less butter because it gets a lot of volume from the egg whites. All in all, I think, worth the trouble.
Ingredients 1/4 cup fine granulated sugar 2 egg whites 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 tablespoon water 1 teaspoon vanilla 1-1/2 sticks (3/4 cups) butter 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted in a double boiler and cooled to room temperature
Combine the sugar, egg whites, cream of tartar and water in the stainless steel bowl of an electric mixer (i.e. your KitchenAid bowl). Bring a large pan of water to simmer, making sure that the water is a the same height as the egg whites in your stainless bowl. Set the bowl in the pan of simmering water and whisk constantly until the mixture reaches 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Be really careful not to curdle the egg whites-- simply remove the bowl from the heat for a bit if it feels like that's happening. Also, you'll know when it's getting close to 160 degrees; the mixture will be getting ultra foamy, like the top of a latte. (A really good latte that is-- one of those kinds where it has a leaf-pattern on top, you know what I'm talking about.)
Remove the bowl to your stand mixer and beat on high speed for 3-5 minutes, until the mixture holds glossy, marshmallowy peaks. Remove the meringue to another bowl.
In the standing mixer, beat half the butter and one-third of the meringue until well combined. Continue to add the remaining two-thirds of the meringue a dollop at a time. The mixture may look scarily curdled at this point; adding the remaining butter a tablespoon at a time will smooth things out. (Basically, just keep adding a bit of butter at a time until the curdling corrects itself.)
Using a rubber spatula, stir in the melted chocolate until well-combined.
Frost the cupcakes using an offset spatula.
Cupcakes with chocolate swiss meringue buttercream
Tuesday, April 25, 2006
Recipes: When life hands you vanilla, make ice cream
So the weather is finally picking up here in the Netherlands. It's about time! So what do I always think about when the weather starts getting warm? The ice cream maker that has been laying dormant in my freezer for months and months, of course.
I try to make lots of flavors that I really like, but usually aren't that good when you buy them: mango, mexican chocolate, and one of my favorites, corn ice cream (which tastes exactly like the Filipino treat, maiz con hielo, which is corn kernels with shave ice, milk and sugar, yum). But in the spring, the first I always make is good vanilla ice cream. Why? Because store-bought vanilla never seems to have enough vanilla for me. I love the crunchy bits of vanilla bean in good vanilla ice cream. Not to mention it's the perfect topping for a good apple pie, but that's a topic for another day.
My favorite recipe for vanilla (after trying many) is Alton Brown's. I don't normally like "Philadelphia" style ice cream (this means ice cream that does not include an egg custard), but for vanilla, it is really nice because it keeps the ingredients to the essentials: cream, sugar, vanilla. And when there's only cream and no custard to fight with the bean, you get a much bigger hit of vanilla. However, I do away with the peach preserves in his recipe (why dilute the vanilla-y flavor with anything else?), double the vanilla, and add a pinch of salt because I always want a bit of salt in my dessert (I am Asian, after all.) Because there is no egg to add that richness, it is essential to use really good cream. We have, generally, delicious dairy products here in the Netherlands, but when I make this ice cream in the States, I am partial to Straus Family Creamery organic whipping cream and half-and-half. The cream is delicious, and seems thicker than standard whipping cream, and trust me, for Philadelphia-style ice cream, this is essential. (For most custard-based ice cream, that contains tons of egg yolks, I just use typical grocery-store whipping cream and milk). The other essential is vanilla bean. Don't even think about using vanilla extract here. I am not a vanilla bean snob (i.e. I would never waste a good vanilla bean for baking a cookie), but for custards and ice cream, I am a believer in the superiority of The Bean.
This will take some planning, meaning, you will have to let the mixture sit overnight. But it will be worth it, and perhaps you can eat some with your breakfast waffles. :)
Ingredients 1-1/2 cups half-and-half 1-1/2 cups whipping cream 3/4 cup sugar 2 vanilla beans, split and scraped Pinch of salt
Combine all ingredients (including the beans and their pulp) in a large saucepan and place over medium heat. Attach a frying or candy thermometer to inside of pan. (see note below) Stirring occasionally, bring the mixture to 170 degrees F. (Note: do not let it boil.) Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Remove the hull of the vanilla bean, pour mixture into lidded container and refrigerate mixture overnight to mellow flavors and texture.
Freeze mixture in ice cream freezer according to unit's instructions. The mixture will not freeze hard in the machine. Once the volume has increased by 1/2 to 3/4 times, and reached a soft serve consistency, spoon the mixture back into a lidded container and harden in the freezer at least 1 hour before serving.
Mmmm, vanilla... (sorry for the horrible picture-- I was more interested in eating it than photographing it.)
Sunday, January 29, 2006
Recipes: Chewy chocolate chip cookies, by accident
One thing that annoys me about American baking recipes is that ingredients are always noted in volume. For example, rather than saying 4 ounces of butter, a typical recipe will say 8 tablespoons of butter. This is no good for an obsessive person like me. I need things to be PRECISE. (And I'm not the only one fighting this battle. Alton Brown notes items like flour in weight, as does Marion Cunningham. Jeffrey Steingarten has ranted about the weight vs. volume issue. No surprise that all three are some of my favorite cookbook authors and food writers.)
This issue is especially problematic now that I'm living in Europe. Not only do I have to deal with the imprecision of "1/2 cup" in a baking recipe, but now I have to make the volume conversion to metric. Thankfully, I don't have to do this too often because I have American measuring cups, but it's a problem with butter. Butter is an issue because it ought to be noted by weight, as it is in European recipes, but too often it's noted by tablespoon volume in American recipes. In America, you just slice the stick of butter to the "3 tablespoon" hashmark, right through the paper. Here, because it's noted in metric on the butter wrapper, I would actually have to break out the tablespoon. Have you ever put butter in a tablespoon? The consistency makes it a horrible thing to measure, and half of it stays in the tablespoon or measuring cup or whatever.
So, lazy me, I've been doing the conversions in my head and basically eyeballing the 250-gram stick of butter. Fortunately, the other day this half-witted methodology resulted in an excellent chocolate chip cookie, so I'm reproducing the accidental recipe here (complete with volume measurements for butter-- lucky you!)
Metric Mismeasurement Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies Normally my go-to recipe for chocolate chip cookies is the excellent Thick and Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies from The Best Recipe (one of my favorite cookbooks for American standards). I started mixing the ingredients before realizing that I may not have enough butter, so I added light cooking oil to make up the difference. Turns out I had too much butter, which is what ended up making the end-product so good: they were huge, flat and chewy and not overly sweet.
Ingredients 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 stick butter (4 oz.), melted and cooled until warm 1/4 cup light cooking oil (i.e. sunflower oil, which is what I used) 3/4 cup dark brown sugar 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1 large egg, and 1 large egg yolk 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1-1/2 cups bittersweet chocolate chips (i.e. Ghirardelli bittersweet) 1 cup toasted and chopped walnuts (optional)
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.
Stir together the flour, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
Combine the melted butter and cooking oil.
Beat the butter/oil and sugars at low speed in an electric mixer until combined. Beat in egg, yolk and vanilla until combined. Add the flour mixture and beat until just combined, at low speed.
Stir in the chocolate chips and nuts until just combined.
Drop the dough by the tablespoon on the cookie sheet, leaving about 2-inches space between the dough. Flatten the doughballs slightly in the center with your fingertips or the back of the tablespoon.
Bake for 8-10 minutes until the cookies are golden brown at the center, medium brown at the edges. Remove from the oven and cool on the cookie sheets, transferring to a wire rack once cooled.
Thursday, January 26, 2006
Recipes: Cajeta, documented
Caramel is delicious, any caramel. But the total take-the-cake caramel is my favorite, dulce de leche. This is an Argentinian reduced-milk caramel that is thicker and creamier than your run of the mill ice cream topping (which, by the way, is an excellent use for dulce de leche). So given my love of this Sweetener From God, what better way to improve things than to make it myself? The close-enough recipe I latched onto was Rick Bayless' for Mexican cajeta, which is basically a dulce de leche made with goat milk and cinnamon. This is apparently RB's favorite sweetener, judging by how many flippin recipes he has that include cajeta. But whatever; I guess you can't blame the guy for being obsessed with caramel.
So I got my friend Jason on the "time to make cajeta" bandwagon, we followed a recipe for it and had a Cajeta Disaster. I can't put my finger exactly on what happened, but it turned out like, grainy and a color kind of like tapioca, and a texture like Cream of Wheat.
Some comments: Jodie: "Why does this taste like lemons?" Kyle: "This looks like some sort of weird gravy." (and puts it on his ice cream anyway.)
I mean, the junk was off. It could have been a number of things: maybe it was the eyeballing of the actual amount of goat milk instead of actually, like, measuring it. Maybe it was the half cup of sugar and handful of baking soda thrown in at the end. Who knows. But anyway, it was wrong enough that after a sleepless night of Cajeta Nightmares, I had to set things right.
Not Quite Cajeta I call this Not Quite Cajeta because I didn't have any goat milk laying around the kitchen so I used good old-fashioned whole milk from a cow. And it turned out really nice anyway, with a really smooth texture. You should come out with about 3/4 cup of caramel at the end, which is delicioso on top of ice cream, or, what do you know? Waffles of course.
Ingredients 2 cups of whole milk 1/2 cup sugar 1 stick of cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1-1/2 teaspoon water pinch of salt
Place the milk, sugar, salt and cinnamon in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat.
Once it boils, take it off the heat and stir in the diluted baking soda—make sure to be ready to stir it down; it will bubble up and threaten to boil over the edge of the pan. Set it back on the burner over medium heat and keep stirring.
This next step takes forever, but if you've ever made risotto, you'll know what I'm talking about. Basically just stir the mixture over medium heat for about 35 minutes. Stir stir stir stir. And it'll threaten to boil over every now and then but just lift it off the burner until it settles down, dammit! and stir stir stir some more. Towards the end of about 35 minutes, a wonderful alchemy will take place and you'll start getting a golden color. It'll still be bubbly but thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
Once it looks sort of pudding-like, reduce the heat a bit, but keep stirring. After 5-10 minutes it will be the color of butterscotch and the thickness of something like Nutella spread. At this point, you can take it off the heat.
Let it cool a little, add a half-teaspoon of your favorite rum or liqueur (I added Grand Marnier) and thin it with warm water until you have about 3/4 cups. According to Rick, you can keep this in the fridge for up to a month (but you and I both know it won't last that long.)
Azucar!
Regular old milk as it looks when you first place it in the saucepan with the cinnamon
After adding the baking soda. You may have to remove the pan from heat to prevent it from boiling over.
This is what it should look like after about a half hour of simmering and stirring
Now when it tries to boil over, it'll look shiny and thick, rather than foamy
Now it's pretty much done...
The finished product, after adding some booze and water.
A few weeks ago, I decided to make pancakes for breakfast (usually when I have time, we carb out at breakfast-- either pancakes or waffles are the order of the day). Halfway through the process, after mixing the dry ingredients and making 'clabbered' milk (milk curdled with a tablespoon of lemon juice; handy when buttermilk isn't available), I realized that there were no eggs in the house-- something that never happens in my house. (It's basically like, if my house didn't have butter or bacon. Never!)
So instead of panicking, I thought about making scones. I had a few scone recipes that manage without eggs, so I modified a combination of a few (and used that clabbered milk as well so it wouldn't get wasted). What resulted was an unusual scone-- not fluffy, but instead crispy and delicious. It was awesome straight out of the oven with just butter (or butter and jelly, as my kids like it).
The Accidental Scone 2 cups flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 cup cold butter, cut into small chunks 3/4 cups 'clabbered' milk (3/4 cup milk mixed with 1 tablespoon lemon juice, allowed to sit for 5 minutes until thickened)
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Combine the dry ingredients in a large shallow bowl. Toss in the chunks of cold butter and toss to combine. With a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the flour until it's the texture of course meal, with some pea sized pieces of butter. Make a well in the middle of the mixture and pour in the milk. Mix with a fork until combined. On a floured surface, turn out the mixture and pat it down until it's about 1/2-inch thick. Cut with a knife into 8 triangular pieces and transfer to a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.
Bake for 10 minutes, or until it looks brown and crispy on the top. Careful when opening the oven-- hot steam will rush out and if you want to keep your eyebrows, be careful! :)
Monday, February 14, 2005
Have an outrageous Valentine's Day!
Because Valentine's Day puts chocolate on everyone's mind (and because Food TV shoves Chocolate Obsession Week at us this time of year), here's my recipe for Little Outrageous Brownies. I call them Little Outrageous Brownies because I had to adjust Ina Garten's (Barefoot Contessa) recipe for Outrageous Brownies. No wonder she's gained weight-- who makes a 13 x 18 sheet pan of brownies?! So given most people's appetites, I've been working to get this recipe down to a normal-sized 8 x 8 inch pan.
This is my favorite brownie recipe so far (and believe me, I've tried a lot!). This one finally gives you that nice crackly top that you usually only get with commercial brownie mix because it has a healthy dose of baking powder-- something that is often missing from homemade brownie recipes. This also calls for a bit of instant espresso, which does wonders for bringing out the taste of the chocolate. The great thing about brownies, including these ones, is that you don't really need a super-high-quality chocolate for it (except use some great chocolate for the chips). And I made it even easier than Ina's recipe by replacing the unsweetened chocolate with additional bittersweet. Eet smakkelijke!
Yummy crackly top
Little Outrageous Brownies adapted from The Barefoot Contessa
7 oz. bittersweet chocolate (I like Ghirardelli double chocolate chips) 3/4 cup butter (yes it's a lot, so what) 2/3 cup sugar 1-1/2 tsp instant espresso powder 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk 2 tsp. vanilla 1/3 cup all-purpose flour (plus 1 tbsp for tossing nuts and chocolate chips in) 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder 2/3 cup bittersweet chocolate chips 2/3 cup chopped roasted pecans (yeah, it's a pain, but do roast them-- it tastes much better!)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt the butter and chocolate together over low heat, or over a double-boiler. Cool until just warm. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs with the sugar and espresso. Slowly pour the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture while whisking. Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Stir into the egg/chocolate mixture until well-blended. Toss the nuts and chocolate chips in the 1 tablespoon of flour (this will keep them from settling to the bottom of the brownies) and add to the chocolate mixture. Scrape out the mixture into a nice little 8 x 8 pan.
Bake for about 24 minutes, just, just until a toothpick inserted in center comes out with just a bits of chocolate clinging to it. Let cool, cut into squares and serve with excellent vanilla ice cream. :)
After meeting AB, my obsession with the perfect waffle continues, mostly because AB has not done a waffle show. (Amazing, I know). A few weeks after returning from Holland, I was in fact able to recreate those Brussels waffles that I looooved so much. Here's a reminder of what they look like:
Yummm...
Anyway, I'm trying to get a stove-top waffle iron on eBay so I can recreate something along these lines. I currently have a Villaware from Williams-Sonoma-- it does okay, but doesn't quite get to the heat level that I need for the ultimate super-crispy waffle.Unfortunately, I have turned into a complete waffle snob. The thing is, you can't get a decent waffle in America, once you've had a proper one. The secret ingredient: yeast. Sounds annoying, I know, but if you simply think about it the night before, yeasted waffles are just as easy to prepare as regular ol' buttermilk ones. I emailed my recipe for yeasted waffles to AB-- hopefully a waffle episode is in our future!
The Crispiest Waffle 1 tsp. instant yeast (Not to be confused with active dry yeast. Make sure it says "Instant") 2-1/4 cups flour 2 tbsp. sugar 1/2 tsp. salt 1 stick butter, melted, then cooled 2 cups warm whole milk (about 110 degrees) 2 tsp. vanilla extract 2 eggs, separated
The night before you want yummy waffles:Stir together the dry ingredients: flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Stir the melted butter into the dry ingredients. Stir in the warm milk and vanilla until combined. Cover with plastic wrap (or my favorite, Press 'n Seal, yeah!). Leave overnight out on the counter.The morning you'll eat the yummy waffles:The batter should look frothy. Heat waffle iron as you usually do. Add the egg yolks to the batter. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks and fold carefully into the batter. This batter will rise a little more than usual, so test out a waffle or two before you really get started. Eet smakelijke!
Welcome to Sheryl's site dedicated to the humble waffle, among other sweet, savory and delicious things. I'm based in The Hague, Netherlands, and post recipes and travel (food, of course) photos. Mmmm...photos...