I still have to post our pictures from our 10-day trip to Egypt. A little bit of beach, a little bit of archaeology, a little bit of cultural craziness. As a result (and with our three cameras between me, Kyle and my daughter) I have something like 1000 pics to go through, arrgh.
In the meantime, here's a recipe for chickpea fritters. I'm a big fan of falafel (which presented at breakfast once when I asked for Egyptian breakfast!) but it's kind of a pain to make during the week because you have to soak the dried chickpeas, then grind them up in a food processor that I don't have, then deep-fry them. Fine when you have some time, but when you need to make dinner in an hour? No way.
As a substitute, I use canned chickpeas during the week. I mash the chickpeas with a potato masher, then add the rest of ingredients and a little bit of flour. And if you have chickpea flour? Even better. I then pan-fry them in olive oil. They're more like little veggie burgers than falafel, but they are still really good.
Serve these with a cucumber or red cabbage pickle and red onions for bite. Tahini sauce is great, but I've also used tzatziki here, and will post the recipe for that soon as well. I've used store-bought pita, but it's much, much better if you toast it in the oven or also fry it in a little bit of oil.
Chickpea fritters Makes about 12-14 2-inch fritters, about 2 for each sandwich
Ingredients 2 15-ounce (500 g) cans chickpeas 4 garlic cloves, minced A large handful of parsley, minced 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander 1 large egg approx 1/4 cup flour or chickpea flour 1-1/2 teaspoons salt A generous sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper
6-8 pitas, warmed in the oven Tahini or tzatziki Sliced red onions Salad fixings
Drain and rinse the chickpeas in a colander. Pour them into a large bowl. Mash with a potato masher. You may have to put a towel underneath the bowl to keep it from sliding around. If you don't get all the beans mashed, don't worry; it's okay if there are a few whole ones.
Add the garlic, parsley, cumin, coriander, salt and pepper. Mix it up really well with your hands. Add the egg and continue mixing. Add the flour and continue mashing the mixture around with your hands until all is well-combined.
Form into 2-inch patties (smaller if you like).
Heat an even layer of olive oil over medium heat in a large pan. When a tiny bit of the chickpea mixture starts bubbling and frying, the oil is ready.
Fry the chickpeas until they are golden brown, about 3-4 minutes on each side. Drain on a wire rack.
Serve in the warmed pitas with sauce and salad. I like to mash up the chickpeas just a little bit.
I love cold noodle and pasta salads. These sesame noodles are my favorite lunchbox lunch: the combination of sesame, green onion, garlic and ginger are total harmony.
Last week, I didn't have any leftover grilled chicken, or uncooked chicken that I could poach and shred into the noodle salad like I usually do. Instead, I used some smoked eel that I had in the fridge. It's available everywhere here - called gerookte paling filet - and I really like the texture and smokey taste. Luckily, the result was amazing. The saltiness and strong flavor really complimented the other strong flavors. Cold noodle zen achieved.
I like to eat this with sliced cucumber (or cucumber pickle) and shredded carrots, so you get the whole crunchy/soft contrast.
Sesame noodles with smoked eel
serves 4-6
The noodle recipe is adapted from Cooks Illustrated. Here, I used Chinese fat egg noodles that you can find in Asian groceries. If you don't have those, use spaghetti. It works great, and I won't tell anyone.
Note: Toast the sesame seeds, stirring constantly in a dry skillet over medium heat for 10 minutes or so, until fragrant
Ingredients
1 pound (500 g) dried noodles
1 tablespoon table salt
2 tablespoons Chinese sesame oil
For the sauce:
3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
1/4 cup tahini (use peanut butter if you don't have tahini -- it tastes great too)
1 thumb-sized knob fresh ginger, minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup soy sauce (regular soy sauce, not thick 'superior')
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons lightly packed brown sugar
hot water
Additions:
75 to 100 g smoked eel, shredded (this is maybe 1-2 pieces of eel)
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
2 scallions, sliced thin
1 grated carrot
1 sliced cucumber
Prepare the noodles according to package instructions (i.e. add with the salt to boiling water for the package-defined amount of time). Drain and rinse with cold water. Toss immediately with the sesame oil in a large bowl and set aside.
Combine all sauce ingredients in a blender or food processor, add a tablespoon of hot water, and process until smooth. (Add a bit more water and process until it is the texture of heavy cream).
Toss the sauce with the noodles and scallions. Top with the sesame seeds, carrot and cucumber. If you like it spicy, garnish with some chile sauce.
Spring is slowly arriving, so one of the first things I did was fire up the grill. Don't get me wrong, if I want barbeque enough, I will shiver out there in the middle of the winter, with snow on the ground. But it's much, much nicer when you don't need to wear a coat.
My favorite grilled food is still pork skewers, but chicken thighs are nice because I basically just use the same marinade. The marinade is based on a mixture of soy, ketchup and pineapple juice (in my other recipe, I talk about why I replaced the 7up with pineapple juice). I know not everyone is keen on ketchup, but I'm with Jamie Oliver here: the ketchup gives you that nice stick-to-your-ribs stickiness that caramelizes on the grill. (Of course, he was referring to the pig's ribs, or what used to be the pig's ribs.) One substitution I made to my previous recipe is instead of sugar, I used honey. This gave the marinade an extra stickiness.
Make sure to use chicken thighs, or at least dark meat. I never grill chicken breasts -- they dry out way too fast. The chicken thighs stay really juicy and taste the best when grilled. Serve with steamed rice, spicy duck sauce and cucumber pickle and it'll feel like yer kickin it in the islands.
Grilled chicken thighs
Ingredients
2 pounds (1 kg) boneless skinless chicken thighs
1/2 head garlic, minced
1/4 cup ketchup
1/4 cup dark soy sauce (sometimes called 'dark superior')
1/4 cup pineapple juice
3 tablespoons honey
2 teaspoons palm vinegar (white wine vinegar or rice wine vinegar works here)
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Whisk together the ketchup, soy, pineapple juice, honey vinegar, sesame oil, salt and pepper. Set aside 1/4 cup for brushing on the chicken while you're grilling. To the remaining mixture, add the minced garlic.
About 5 hours before grilling, place the chicken in a large bowl or ziploc bag. Add the marinade and let sit in the refrigerator until you are ready to grill.
Prepare the grill. Remove the chicken from the marinade (discard the marinade) and grill for 6-7 minutes each side, brushing with the reserved sauce before turning.
One of my favorite recipes is Mark Bittman's minimalist recipe for Paella with Tomatoes. The reason I love it so much is because it takes paella out of the realm of specialty dish with specialty cookware (paella pan) and expensive seafood ingredients, into a simple dish with simple ingredients. In a way this brings us back to the humble beginnings of paella, a laborers dish from Valencia, cooked with easily available ingredients.
This is great for a weekday because prep and cooking from beginning to end takes less than an hour. A couple things I've found that for me, make the recipe even better: it's not traditional, but I like to first fry fresh sausage (such as Italian sausage) in the pan first. You then will get a nice little fond to fry the onions with, giving the dish even more flavor. Another thing I like to do is use shrimp stock if I have it -- usually if I prepare a dish where I shell shrimp, I simmer the shells in water and salt, and get a nice, quick little stock. Save it in the freezer for a dish like this (or as a substitution for chicken stock in other recipes). Do use saffron. I don't care that other recipes (including Bittman's) consider the saffron optional. I consider it essential to give it that specifically 'paella' taste. Instead of adding it directly, I steep it in the warm cooking liquid -- this takes less saffron to give it a still potent taste. I know it's expensive, but a little goes a long way.
Most importantly, use the right rice: in order to cook correctly with these proportions of water to rice, it must be a short grain. Arborio or risotto rice is a nice substitution if you don't have access to paella rice.
Weekday paella
adapted from The New York Times
serves 4
Ingredients
2 cups paella rice (bomba, valencia or as a substitute, arborio rice)
3-1/2 cups seafood stock (chicken stock or water, if you don't have seafood stock)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and pepper
1 pound ripe tomatoes
1 pound fresh sausage
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion, minced
large pinch saffron threads
1 teaspoon pimenton
handful fresh parsley, minced
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (220 C). Warm stock or water in a saucepan. Put tomatoes in a medium bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle them with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Toss to coat.
Place the stock or water in a small saucepan and heat over medium low (the stock just needs to be warm when you add it to rice later on.) When the stock has some steam coming off of it, add the saffron and stir to combine.
Heat a large pan over medium high. Add 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the sausage and turn to brown. Add 2 tablespoons of water and cover the pan. Lower heat to medium low and continue frying until the sausage is cooked through, about 8-10 minutes. Uncover and remove the sausage. Slice the sausage evenly.
Add the remaining olive oil to the hot pan. Over medium heat, add the onion and garlic and cook until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the paprika and cook for another minute. Add the rice and stir until shiny. Add the liquid and stir until combined.
Put the tomatoes and sausage on top and drizzle the tomato liquid over the whole thing. Roast, uncovered and undisturbed, for 15 minutes. Turn off oven and let the pan sit in the oven for another 10 minutes.
Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle with parsley.
When I was a kid, one of my favorite dishes was my mom's coconut shrimp: it was super garlicky, a little bit spicy and creamy. One of the things I loved most about it is that she would cook the shrimp whole: heads, tails and shells, so you would have to eat the shrimp and rice with your hands. And the best thing? Sucking the delicious juice out of the shrimp heads. (Now THAT is a straight up Filipinas thing to do!)
Now that I'm making this on my own, I'm finding that not everyone wants the down-and-dirty, smelling-like-a-fish-market hands for three days. The problem is that without all those shells and heads, the broth won't taste as good. So I came up with an alternative way of cooking it: shell the shrimp, then put it in the coconut milk to simmer before you stir-fry everything. This gives you that prawn-y taste and still be able to eat with utensils - if that's what floats your boat.
Do make sure to buy the shrimp with the heads on: those heads contain loads of flavor.
Six cloves of garlic, ready to go in
Garlic shrimp in coconut milk
serves 4
This recipe calls for a lot of garlic. If you need to do things like, I don't know, talk to people, afterwards, you can always cut down on the garlic. (Although in my opinion, it won't taste as good.)
Ingredients
1-1/2 pounds (700 g) shrimp with the heads on (the shrimp should be 16-20 count/lb)
15 ounces (500 g) coconut milk
2 dried red chile peppers
6 to 7 cloves of garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons fish sauce
minced parsley or coriander (for garnish)
Skim about 2 tablespoons of the cream off of the top of the coconut milk and set aside (this will be used for stir-frying later)
Remove the shells and heads from the shrimp and set in a medium saucepan. Pour the remaining coconut milk over it and add the salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and continue simmering for 15 minutes. Check it -- the coconut milk should now be slightly pink.
Drain the coconut milk through a strainer and set aside.
Heat a wok to medium high. Add the coconut cream, stirring until the oil separates and the coconut bits start browning (add a little vegetable oil if there is not enough oil at this point).
Add the shrimp and chile peppers and fry for 2 minutes, until the shrimp is nice and pink. Add the garlic and stirfry for another minute. Now add the coconut milk and fish sauce and simmer for 2-3 minutes.
Remove the shrimp to the serving dish. Continue simmering the coconut milk for a few more minutes, until it has thickened slightly (you can decide if you like it thicker or thinner at this point -- if you like it thicker, just continue to simmer for a bit longer). Taste to see if it needs more salt. Pour the coconut milk over the shrimp.
Garnish with the parsley or coriander and serve with steamed rice.
I came up with the recipe for this buttercream because I saw that a Seattle cupcake shop (which shall remain unnamed, but those of you who know me will know which one I'm talking about) had a salted caramel cupcake as a recently added flavor. Now, I find their cupcakes generally too sweet, and it has to do with that powdered-sugar buttercream that I can't swallow. I'm not sure how that would fly with caramel on top of all that sugar (remember, caramel is sugar too, right?) so, curious, I set out to do my own.
I tried to do a coconut cupcake because I love coconut, but the cake came out dry, so I'm still working on it. The recipe I started with was Ina Garten's coconut cupcakes, but I'm not so big on those because I find sweetened coconut flakes kinda vile. I tried to replace it with regular coconut, but it didn't turn out quite right, so I'll have to do some more experimenting in this area (and I'm sure my family won't want to ever see another coconut cupcake, ever.) The next time, I did a standard vanilla cupcake and it tasted really nice with the caramel.
This uses a base of Swiss meringue buttercream with the caramel mixed in at the end. It is light and fluffy, but has good caramel flavor. For the caramel I added salt (I call it 'salted caramel' even though I always add salt to the caramel I make for say, leche flan). Sprinkle the cupcakes with some fleur de sel at the end and it will totally elevate the frosting to the next level.
Vanilla cupcakes (my go-to recipe is here) makes 12 cupcakes Note: I prefer to grease and flour muffin tins because I like eating cupcakes where I don't have to peel off the wrapper, but the recipe does not change if you want to use cupcake papers.
Ingredients 1-1/2 cups all purpose flour 3/4 cups sugar 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, room temperature 1/2 cup sour cream 1 large egg, room temperature 2 large egg yolks, room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 350 degrees with the oven rack in the middle position. Grease and flour a 12-cup muffin tin.
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.
Cream together the butter and sugar until light colored and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Add the egg, egg yolks and vanilla and beat at medium speed until thoroughly incorporated.
Add the sour cream and beat until incorporated.
Add the flour mixture and beat until just incorporated.
Spoon the mixture into the muffin cups and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean, about 20 minutes.
Remove and cool to room temperature on a rack, about 45 minutes. In the meantime, prepare the frosting of your choice.
Salted Caramel Buttercream makes enough to frost 12 cupcakes
Ingredients
For the caramel:
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup heavy cream
pinch sea salt
Add the sugar to a small saucepan and pour the water over it. With the heat on low, swirl the pan around until the sugar has nearly dissolved. Be careful not to let it boil -- if it starts getting too hot, remove it from the burner for a few seconds, continuing to swirl.
Once the sugar has mostly dissolved, raise the heat to medium-high and bring the mixture to a boil. Cover it immediately and leave on boil for 2 minutes.
Uncover and continue swirling the mixture until it becomes dark amber. (Be careful -- you want it to be dark, but it can go from dark to burning in seconds.) Take it off the heat immediately.
Slowly pour in the cream, stirring with a whisk. Again, be careful as the caramel will start splattering, and will splatter even more if you add the cream too fast. Whisk until combined and set aside.
Ingredients
For the buttercream:
3 egg whites
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 sticks of butter, at room temperature (I actually use salted butter)
Combine the sugar, egg whites, cream of tartar and water in the stainless steel bowl of an electric mixer (i.e. your KitchenAid bowl). Bring a large pan of water to simmer, making sure that the water is a the same height as the egg whites in your stainless bowl. Set the bowl in the pan of simmering water and whisk constantly until the mixture reaches 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Be really careful not to curdle the egg whites-- simply remove the bowl from the heat for a bit if it feels like that's happening. Also, you'll know when it's getting close to 160 degrees; the mixture will be getting ultra foamy, like the top of a latte. (A really good latte that is-- one of those kinds where it has a leaf-pattern on top, you know what I'm talking about.)
Remove the bowl to your stand mixer and beat on high speed for 3-5 minutes, until the mixture holds glossy, marshmallowy peaks. Remove the meringue to another bowl.
In the standing mixer, beat half the butter and one-third of the meringue until well combined. Continue to add the remaining two-thirds of the meringue a dollop at a time. The mixture may look scarily curdled at this point; adding the remaining butter a tablespoon at a time will smooth things out. (Basically, just keep adding a bit of butter at a time until the curdling corrects itself.)
With the mixer on low, add the caramel and mix until well-combined.
Frost the cupcakes using an offset spatula. Sprinkle with sea salt.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Weekday spaghetti and meatballs - no jars!
Spaghetti is such a great comfort food, and for those of us with kids, who hasn't made it at home? We have spaghetti on a regular basis, usually with me making ragu on the weekend -- the time it takes to simmer only makes it taste better. After I watched Hancock with the Little Guy, he became obsessed with eating spaghetti with meatballs ('Spaghetti Madness'!) I thought, why not?
I made this based on a combination of a few recipes and it came out delish. At the moment, everyone in the house prefers it to our usual ragu, which is good because this takes less than an hour to make, so you can actually make it on a weekday.
Basically, I fry the meatballs and then use the fond to start the sauce by deglazing the pan with some wine. It makes it super flavorful, even with few ingredients. A few tips: Do use the beef/pork mix. It makes the meatballs taste better and juicier. When you fry the meatballs, you can brown them on the outside, but don't worry if they don't cook all the way through -- they will finish cooking in the sauce. Also, they are a bit delicate, so be careful when turning them.
Spaghetti with meatballs serves 4
For meatballs: 1/2 cup whole milk
2 slices white bread, crusts cut off
1/2 pound ground beef
1/2 pound ground pork
1 egg
1 shallot, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper a handful of fresh parsley, minced very fine 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
For sauce: 1/2 cup white wine 1 shallot, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 28-ounce can of whole tomatoes (2 - 500g cans), chopped, also reserve the juice 1-1/2 teaspoons salt another handful of fresh parsley, minced fine
1 pound of spaghetti
Tear the bread into small pieces and add the milk. Allow the mixture to soak for 5 minutes.
Add the rest of the meatball ingredients. Mix lightly with your hands. Form into 2-inch meatballs.
Heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil over medium-high heat in a Dutch oven. Add the meatballs and brown for 3.4 minutes, Turn over and brown on the other side. Remove to a plate and set aside.
Pour all but 3 tablespoons of oil out of the pan. Over medium heat, add the shallots. Allow to soften for 3 minutes or so. Add the wine and scrape up all the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Allow the wine to reduce by half. Add the tomatoes and sauce, garlic, salt and pepper. Stir to combine.
Add the meatballs to the sauce and cover. Lower the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. In the meantime, start boiling the water for the spaghetti.
Uncover the saucepan. Simmer uncovered for another 10 minutes, until the sauce has thickened slightly.
Make the spaghetti according to the directions.
Add the parsley to the sauce and stir. Serve with the spaghetti and pass the Parmigiano!
Happy Valentine Day! This is the time to bake chocolatey desserts. I thought that the best place to start was with the recipe from a recent LA Times Culinary SOS: Milk's ooey gooey double chocolate cookies. I read the description and was totally sold.
But something wasn't quite right -- I wasn't liking all the unsweetened chocolate the recipe called for, and I felt like (is this possible?) that there was too much chocolate for the chocolate chunks -- I mean, really, a whole pound for only 18 cookies is kind of ridiculous; I'd sooner eat bon bons. The reason I don't like unsweetened chocolate is that it can be a difficult element to control. There are lots of options out there for excellent bittersweet and semisweet chocolate, but there are few choices for unsweetened. And, on top of that, I can't easily find it where I live.
I tried the recipe anyway and was pretty disappointed by the texture. The melted chocolate was great, but the cookie part was disappointing -- no chew and it actually had a bit of a, I don't know, gritty texture. I was convinced that just cramming as much chocolate into a cookie as possible does not a great cookie make.
In the end I found a great Martha Stewart double chocolate cookie recipe with better proportions of sugar, flour and chocolate. (Chocolate and cocoa add quite a bit of starch to a recipe, so a good chocolate recipe will automatically look as though it has too little flour). I bumped up the amount of chocolate chunks for this recipe, and replaced all the milk chocolate with bittersweet for a darker, less sweet cookie.
They came out perfect -- the cross between a brownie and a cookie that I was looking for, with lots of gooey chocolate chunks. Bake them right after you've mixed them -- for some reason, the texture was better before I left the dough in the fridge (unusual with most drop cookies). These are best warm out of the oven. Skip the chocolate souffle and bake these for your sweetie!
Gooey double chocolate chip cookies makes about 2 dozen cookies
Ingredients 4 ounces (150g) bittersweet chocolate 1/2 cup (1 stick, or 110g) butter 2 large eggs 1-1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 cup (130g) all-purpose flour 1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1-1/2 cups (8 ounces, or 300g) chocolate chunks or chocolate chips
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F (165 C). In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt. Set aside.
Melt the butter and 4 ounces of bittersweet chocolate together over low heat. Remove from heat and add the vanilla.
In the bowl of a mixer, combine the eggs and sugar and beat at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Lower the speed to low and beat in the chocolate mixture until well combined.
Add the flour and stir until just combined. Fold in the chocolate chips or chocolate chunks.
Drop 1-1/2 tablespoon portions 2-inches apart onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
Bake for no longer than 13 minutes -- they should be slightly underbaked so the interior stays chewy and soft. Remove the whole sheet of parchment to a cooling rack and cool until just warm and set.
A few weeks ago (okay, before Christmas) I heard this story on NPR in which Shirley Corriher, author of Bakewise and frequent guest on Good Eats talks about what makes a good cookie. She ended with one of her recent favorites, chocolate crinkle cookies. I had never made them before, so I was intrigued. (Butterhorns were the holiday cookie of choice in our household growing up.)
After looking at the recipe, and reading about bloggers' attempts to make the cookie, I realized that I would first of all have to cut back on the sugar. The recipe calls for an ungodly 2-3/4 cups of sugar, and that is not even including the powdered sugar on the outside. Holy toothache! Many other bloggers said that it was in fact, too too TOO sweet.
I worked on it for a couple of weeks and came down to this recipe. I reduced the sugar and replaced the canola oil with melted butter. (Come on, why make a cookie without butter?) It is a bit more fudgy than chewy, but is still really super chocolatey. The key is to not overbake it, and in fact underbake it just a little bit. A nice tip I took away from the NPR story was first rolling the cookies in granulated sugar, then powdered sugar prevents the cookie from absorbing the powdered sugar so it stays snowy white.
Chocolate Crinkle Cookies makes about 2 dozen cookies
Ingredients 6 tablespoons (75g) butter 8 ounces (227g) bittersweet chocolate 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1-1/4 cup (250g) granulated sugar 2 tablespoons honey or corn syrup 2 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk 1-3/4 cup flour (232g) 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt
For rolling: 1/2 cup granulated sugar 3/4 cup powdered sugar
Melt together the butter and chocolate. Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla.
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a separate bowl. Set aside.
With a mixer with a paddle attachment, combine the sugar, honey and eggs on medium speed for 3-4 minutes. The mixture should be lightened and thickened quite a bit.
Add the chocolate-butter mixture to the egg mixture. Beat at medium low speed until well combined.
Add the flour mixture to the chocolate mixture, and beat at low speed just until combined.
Refrigerate the batter for at least 4 hours.
When you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 325 F (170 C). Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Roll the dough into 2-inch balls. Roll in the granulated sugar, then the powdered sugar.
Bake for 11 - 13 minutes (I bake them at 11 minutes, but I think my oven runs too hot). They should still look a bit gooey inside.
Let cool and eat the same day if possible (that's when they are best!)
A while back we were at a dinner where Kyle was discussing 'going green' with a woman at our table. She was explaining all the measures her family takes to reduce their carbon footprint: driving less, reusing and recycling, not flying as much, etc. Kyle said, "The thing that's hardest for us is eating less meat." She wasn't sure what he meant (as she continued eating the delicious steak we were served) so he mentioned about how in this NY Times article, Mark Bittman explains how global meat production actually produces more carbon than transportation. (Nothing like factoids from the NY Times to ruin a juicy steak!) She was really disheartened to hear this, just as I was when I read about it. Somehow, with all the talk about reducing carbon footprints, this aspect just doesn't get mentioned so much -- I think because it is a difficult idea to face.
I too find not eating meat to be a difficult idea. However, we've been working for a while on trying to reduce our consumption of meat for health and financial reasons anyway. I remember a few years back when Kyle was doing his internship, we were trying to save cash, so we cooked a lot and got our meat fix by flavoring the veggies and beans with bacon. (A little bit of bacon goes a long way, believe me.) For the New Year, I am trying to follow Mark Bittman's tenet about treating meat like a side dish: flavor the other stuff with meat, just like we did back then with the bacon (After all, bacon is meat candy, as my friend Ryan says, and even Rick Bayless wore one of those shirts on his show!)
The following is one of my fave dishes -- I've been making this for years, and when I bust out the block of tofu, the kids actually get excited for dinner (They don't understand tofu's bad rep because this and hotpot are the only ways they eat it). The key is to make sure and get the extra firm tofu (sometimes called 'Chinese-style'). Don't even think about making this with softer tofu -- it'll just absorb all the oil and taste gross.
One interesting takeaway from all the handwringing is that reducing one's meat consumption by just 20 percent is like switching from a regular sedan (such as a Camry) to a fuel efficient Prius. If I take this into account on a weekly basis, I can eat that barbeque pork later -- just not every day.
Tofu with peanut sauce serves 4
Ingredients 1 pound (500g) of extra-firm tofu 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 scallion, minced, white part separated from the green part 1/4 cup sesame or peanut oil For the peanut sauce: 1/2 cup boilng water 3 tablespoons natural peanut butter 2 teaspoons fish sauce 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar
For the sauce: combine the peanut butter, fish sauce, soy sauce, rice vinegar and sugar. Pour the hot water over it, whisking with a fork. It'll take a little time for it to come together, but continue whisking until smooth. Taste for salt. Set aside.
Pour the liquid off the tofu and press slightly to remove as much of the liquid as possible. Cut into 3/4-inch thick slabs. Blot with a paper towel to dry the tofu.
Heat the oil over high in a large nonstick wok or skillet (you will need to be careful -- the tofu will splatter, so if you have a screen you can set over the skillet, have it ready).
Slide the tofu pieces into the oil and let it fry, undisturbed for 3-5 minutes, or until golden. Flip over and brown on the other side. Set on a paper towel.
Pour off all but a couple tablespoons of the oil from the skillet. Add the whites of the scallions and garlic and swirl around. Add the tofu back in and toss. Pour in the peanut sauce and toss the tofu to coat in the sauce. The sauce will thicken really fast, so do this quickly.
Pour the mixture into a serving dish and serve with white rice.
Merry Christmas! Here's the perfect holiday snack -- roasted chestnuts. Last year we were in Rome just after Christmas, and a few times a day we would buy a cone of grilled chestnuts on the streets. Nothing beats it in cold weather. I couldn't resist when I saw some at the produce stand a few days ago. Make sure they are really fresh, and if you keep them in the fridge for a couple of days, keep them in a bag that breathes, rather than a plastic bag. These are ready to eat in a half hour, and if you have a house full of people who love chestnuts (like mine) they won't last more than a half hour.
Roasted chestnuts
Ingredients
1 pound (1/2 kilo) fresh chestnuts
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F (225 C). Prepare the chestnuts by slicing an 'x' into the flat side of each chestnut with a serrated knife. Be very careful not to cut yourself, especially if the chestnuts are really hard.
Lay the chestnuts flat on a roasting pan and sprinkle liberally with water.
Roast for 15 minutes, then turn the chestnuts over. Sprinkle them with water again.
Roast for another 15 minutes, then remove from the oven.
Cool until you can handle them, then eat immediately -- they are delicious warm.
I have been just a little bit obsessed with pumpkin over the past few weeks. I've made a bunch of pies, bars, you name it. I felt like making a slightly different dessert, and having bought a bunch of cream cheese with the intention of making a lemon cheesecake, I switched gears and went for a pumpkin one instead. 'Tis the season.
One accidental discovery in the process was that kruidnoten, the crunchy tiny Sinterklaas cookies that Zwarte Pieten throw at all the kids this week, make a really excellent cheesecake crust. If you don't have access to pepernoten, gingersnaps are a good substitute. Also, if you don't have access to pepernoten, you are probably better off. They are seriously like an addictive cookie version of crack -- you have one and you can't stop consuming them. Luckily, they are a seasonal treat.
Some tips: Do make sure to use a bain-marie (water bath) to make sure the cheesecake cooks evenly. If you use canned pumpkin, the amount called for here is equivalent to one 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree. Do make sure to cook it briefly (as mentioned in the recipe). I like to serve it with sweetened vanilla creme fraiche. If you don't have easy access to creme fraiche (or if it is expensive), you can add 2 tablespoons of buttermilk to 1 cup of heavy cream, shake it in a jar, and leave it out at room temperature overnight.
Pumpkin cheesecake with sweetened vanilla cream makes one 9-inch cake
Ingredients
For crust: 9 ounces (250 g) kruidnoten (or gingersnaps) 6 tablespoons (90g) butter, melted and cooled to room temperature
For cheesecake: 1 kabocha pumpkin, about 2 pounds (or 1 15-ounce can of pumpkin puree) 1-1/2 teaspoons speculaas spice (or pumpkin pie spice) 1-1/2 pounds (700g) cream cheese, room temperature 1 cup sugar 5 large eggs, at room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla
For vanilla creme fraiche: 1 cup (200ml) creme fraiche 2 teaspoons vanilla 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
If you are using fresh pumpkin: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F (160 C). Cut the pumpkin into quarters, scooping out the seeds and stringy stuff. Place in a baking dish, cover with foil, and roast for 1 hour or until soft. Scoop out the flesh and measure out 2 cups.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (160 C). Crush the cookies in a bag or give it a whirl in a food processor until it is completely in crumbs. Using a fork, combine with the butter until all the crumbs are moistened. Press them firmly into a 9-inch springform pan.
Bake for 15 minutes, until fragrant. Remove to a cooling rack.
Combine the pumpkin with the spices. In a medium saucepan, heat the pumpkin over medium heat, stirring. Cook for 3-5 minutes, until shiny and slightly thickened. Remove and cool to room temperature.
In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the cream cheese and sugar. With the paddle attachment, mix at low speed for a few seconds until softened a bit. Add the cooled pumpkin and vanilla, mix at low speed for another minute or so. Scrape down the bowl. With the mixer running on low, add the eggs one at a time. Scrape down the bowl and combine for another 1-2 minutes.
Cover the outside of the springform pan in two layers of aluminium foil, making sure it is secure around the pan -- you don't want water to get in. Pour the cheesecake filling into the springform pan. Set the springform pan into a roasting pan. Set the pan on the oven rack and fill the roasting pan halfway up the sides with very hot tap water.
Bake the cheesecake for 1 hour. Check the temperature with an instant-read thermometer -- the temperature should be at least 160 degrees F (72 degrees C). If not, bake for 15-20 minutes longer.
Turn off the oven and prop the door open with the handle of a wooden spoon. Leave the cheesecake in the oven for 1 hour. Remove from the oven and the water bath. Run a knife around the cake to make sure it doesn't stick to the sides of the springform pan. Set on a cooling rack until cooled to room temperature. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving.
For the creme fraiche: Combine the creme fraiche, vanilla and sugar. Stir together and refrigerate until you serve the cheesecake.
I've been really lazy about posting recipes for Thanksgiving, but here's a side dish that is super-easy and won't have you falling over after preparing another, oh, dozen or so other dishes.
Brussels sprouts is one of those vegetables, like lima beans, that has a classic much-hated-vegetable reputation. I know exactly why, in one word: boiling. I have no idea why anyone would ever boil brussels sprouts, but one taste of boiled brussels sprouts will turn you off of this veggie forever.
Thankfully, I never had brussels sprouts growing up, so it wasn't ruined for me forever. These are totally a popular seasonal vegetable here in NL -- it reminds me of fall when I start seeing them in the grocery. I split them and stirfry them with garlic. The insides get brown and crispy, and they taste delish with liberal amounts of fresh black pepper.
Stir-fried brussel sprouts with garlic serves 4 as a side dish
Ingredients 1 pound (500g) small brussels sprouts 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon butter 3 cloves garlic, minced coarse salt and black pepper to taste
Trim the ends off the sprouts and split each one in half.
Heat a wok over high heat. When the pan is hot, add the oil and butter, swirl it around and add the sprouts. Let the sprouts sit for 30 seconds or so, then stir them around (the ones that were on the bottom should be a bit brown). Cover, and lower heat to medium low.
After 5-7 minutes, uncover and try to pierce a sprout with a fork. If it's still too firm for the fork to go through, cover the sprouts again and continue cooking for another 3-4 minutes. You may need even more time if the sprouts are large ones. Just keep checking in the same way every few minutes.
Once the sprouts are fairly soft, raise the heat to high again and add another tablespoon of oil. Add the garlic and salt and pepper and stir around until the sprouts brown a little bit more. Taste for salt. Serve immediately.
I was lucky enough to find big American marshmallows in the gourmet grocery
My friend Martha recently posted on Facebook that she was driving 25 minutes away for hot chocolate. This may sound ridiculous -- unless you've had good hot chocolate.
Some of my favorite hot chocolate is at Angelina in Paris. And yes, to say my favorite hot chocolate is in Paris makes me cringe at how much I sound like some sort of pompous foodie. But really, the hot chocolate is goooood. It is dark and thick, almost like pudding, and tastes like a warm melted chocolate bar. And it also costs a fortune.
Rather than take the train eight hours round trip for a hot beverage, I've been lucky enough to come across a recipe, courtesy of Jeffrey Steingarten (speaking of pompous foodies, he's my favorite) that basically mimics that hot chocolate that I crave.
The most important thing about this recipe is that you use a good chocolate that you like to eat. I really like Valrhona and Scharffen-Berger dark chocolate (70% cacao). Callebaut will do in a pinch. For the love of Jacques, don't use Hersheys, unless you are making this for someone you don't like. Also, do use the salt -- it brings out the chocolatey in chocolate.
Okay, enough writing. Must have hot chocolate.
Favorite hot chocolate serves 4 adapted from Jeffrey Steingarten
Ingredients 1-1/2 cup whole milk 1/4 cup water 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 3 ounces (80g) of your favorite bittersweet chocolate, cut into chunks 3 tablespoons Dutch cocoa powder (Droste is my favorite) a generous pinch of salt
In a saucepan, stir together the milk, water and sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat.
Add the chocolate and cocoa, bring to a boil again, whisking until the chocolate and cocoa are dissolved and the mixture is thickened.
Serve in little cups -- a little goes a long way with this hot chocolate!
Here's a recipe for the weekend where you have time to actually cook, but don't want to spend the whole time in front of the stove. (For me, those are few and far between!) You can, in fact do this on a weekday if you don't allow the sauce to simmer so long, and if you use dried pasta (or ready-made fresh pasta) instead of making the pasta yourself, but the sauce doesn't seem to achieve that magical transformation from a long simmer. Spaghetti and sauce is one of those things that can be either really common or really special, and changing things up just a little -- making your own sauce rather than bottled, using fresh pasta rather than dried -- elevates it to the "really special" level.
Other than the time this sauce takes, it's otherwise really simple. It's not a true bolognese, by any means (there is way too much tomato for that). Rather, it takes some cues from bolognese, such as how I like adding a liver element (chicken livers are often used in bolognese; I shortcut it here by putting in just a little pate), and milk, and then I just add the other ingredients that appeal to me personally. (Spaghetti sauce is one of those things I've found is really personal when it comes to preference -- some like it sweeter, some like fewer tomatoes -- it's really up to you.) You can skip the pate if you don't like liver. The kids and I love it, but Kyle hates anything liver-y, so I don't always put it in. (Hey, I grew up eating liver pate sandwiches at lunch!) You can also adjust the meat if you prefer, say, an all-beef sauce rather than beef and pork. Definitely a recipe that is open to interpretation.
For the noodles I have a KitchenAid pasta roller. This makes it super, super easy to roll uniform fresh pasta -- and is essential if you want to make super-thin, almost transparent fresh lasagna sheets that you don't have to boil. (Lasagna, by the way, is a great use for the leftover sauce.) I haven't tried a manual pasta roller, but that would work fine too. The recipe for the pasta is just the one I got off of the KitchenAid instructions. It's worked better for me than other ingredient ratios.
This sauce either feeds a crowd, or better yet, allows you to save half of it by freezing it. Then, when you want weekend ragú during the week, just thaw it out and use dried pasta. Or, what I like to do is sometimes use the leftover sauce for a big lasagna. Lots of possibilities.
Weekend ragú makes enough to serve 8
Ingredients 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 ounces (100g) diced bacon or pancetta 2 large white onions, diced 6 cloves of garlic, minced 1 medium carrot, shredded 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 pound (500g) ground beef 1 pound (500g) ground pork (you can also use 2 pounds "meatloaf mix", which includes beef, pork and veal in substitution for the beef and pork) 1 tablespoon liver pate (optional) 1-1/2 cups (400ml) whole milk 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup (250ml) red wine 1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes (2 500g cans) 1 15-ounce can tomato sauce (500ml) 1/2 teaspoon pepper 3 teaspoons salt handful of chopped parsley
Preheat oven to 250 degrees F (120 C). Heat a large Dutch oven on the stovetop over medium heat. Add the olive oil and the bacon. Fry until the bacon has browned a bit and some of it's fat has melted.
Add the onions, garlic and carrots. Fry until soft, about 5 minutes.
Add the ground meat and pate (if using). Break up the meat with a wooden spoon and fry until the meat is mostly brown.
Add the milk and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 15-20 minutes, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the fat separates from the milk and the meat is sizzling.
Tilt the dutch oven, and using a large spoon, spoon out as much of the fatty liquid as you can without spooning out the meat. (It's okay if it seems like a lot is remaining; this is just to keep the sauce from being really greasy).
Return the pot to medium heat. Add the tomato paste and stir to mix. Add the red wine and allow it to simmer in the meat until it has mostly reduced.
Add the tomatoes (with their juice), breaking it up with your hand as you add it to the sauce. Add the tomato sauce, salt and pepper and stir to combine. Bring the whole thing to a low simmer.\
Cover the pot and place in the oven. Simmer in the oven for about 3 hours. Take it out to stir it once every hour or so, making sure the meat is not sticking to the bottom of the pan.
After 3 hours, remove from the oven. Skim fat off the top of the sauce. Stir in the parsley and serve with noodles, passing shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Fresh spaghetti (or fettuccini or linguini, depending on your pasta cutter) makes about 1 pound
Ingredients 4 large eggs 3-1/2 cups sifted all-purpose flour (400g) 1 tablespoon water
Place the ingredients in your stand mixer. Combine the ingredients on the lowest setting.
Put the dough hook on and beat at medium-low for two minutes. You may need to take it out and knead it by hand for a few minutes. It shouldn't feel crumbly -- rather it should feel leathery and smooth, but not sticky. If it is crumbly, add a bit more water. If it is sticky, add a bit more flour.
Let the dough rest, covered with a dry towel, for 15 minutes.
Run through your pasta roller as directed. (Make sure to dust the noodles with flour, otherwise they will stick together.)
Last weekend we had a great time (and great weather) picking apples and pears at a farm nearby. Elstar apples and Conference pears were in season -- my favorite kinds! The fruit trees are pruned to be short, more like bushes, so it was easy for the kids, even the baby, to join in. We ended up with 11 kilos (!) of fruit, but I gotta say, it was really hard for the kids to stop adding to the bags. So, to use up some of this fruit, desserts are in order. I've re-posted one of my favorite recipes for Dutch appeltaart here. (Here's the original post as well.)
Baby-sized Conference pears: perfect for snacking.
You must do a bit of taste-testing...
... and make sure to wear waterproof boots.
Short trees make you pick too many, of course.
A pear tree tipping under the weight of all that deliciousness.
Dutch Appeltaart makes one 9-inch taart
For the crust: 2 cups all-purpose flour (300 grams) 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar (150 grams) zest from one mandarin orange 1 teaspoon salt 12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (about 175 grams), cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 egg 1 slice white bread, processed into breadcrumbs in a food processor
For the filling: 2 pounds apples (I like Granny Smith for its texture and tartness) 4 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla
Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper. Combine the flour, brown sugar, orange zest and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and cut it into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. (Alternatively, use a food processor.) Stir in the egg with a fork, then use your hands to knead the mixture until it resembles, well, a ball of dough. Flatten the dough into a 6-inch disk, wrap in cling wrap and place in refrigerator for at least an hour.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll out 3/4 of the dough between two sheets of cling wrap to about a 13-inch circle (set aside the other 1/4 of the dough for the top of the tart). Set it into the springform pan. Don't worry if it tears; the dough is really forgiving, so just pat it into the bottom and sides of the pan. Scatter the breadcrumbs along the bottom of the tart crust. Place it into the refrigerator while preparing the filling.
Core and peel the apples. Divide each apple into 16 slices. (Place the apples in a bowl of ice water so they don't turn brown.) Drain the apple slices and combine with the cornstarch, salt, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla.
Roll out the remaining crust dough into strips to create a lattice-like top. (Don't worry about making it perfect-- it'll sort of 'melt' in the oven anyway.)
Place the apple mixture (but make sure not to include the accumulated liquid) into the tart crust and lay the lattice-dough-strips on top.
Bake in preheated oven for 50 minutes. Remove and cool on a cooling rack-- once it's cooled to room temperature, remove the springform sides. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.
My friend Dana here in Den Haag asked me for this recipe. These are little bar cookies that are especially nice for school lunches -- they transport well, and they're sweet, but not too sweet, and they have kind of this granola bar thing going because of the oatmeal. That said, they are still dessert -- they have a really buttery shortbread base in which part of it is mixed up with the oats and nuts to create a streusel topping. Really nice for an afternoon snack.
Raspberry oatmeal bars adapted from Cooks Illustrated makes about 24 bar cookies
Ingredients 2-1/2 cups AP flour (350 grams) 2 sticks of butter (220 grams), cut into small chunks, at room temperature 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup granulated sugar (100 grams) 1/4 cup packed brown sugar (60 grams) 1/2 cup rolled oats (45 grams) 1/2 cup chopped pecans or walnuts (50 grams) 3/4 cup fresh or frozen raspberries (100 grams), thawed, if frozen 3/4 cup raspberry jam (240 grams) 2 teaspoons lemon juice
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 C). Line a 13x9-inch baking pan with parchment paper. Reserve 2 small chunks of the butter and set aside (this will be for the streusel).
In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the flour, salt and white granulated sugar. With the paddle attachment and the mixer on low, add the butter one piece at a time. Mix until it looks like wet sand starting to clump together (this is a great tip from Cooks Illustrated -- usually, or rather, always, recipes call for a mixture to resemble "coarse meal" which sometimes seems meaningless.).
Measure out half the mixture (about 1-1/4 cup) and set aside for the streusel. Press the rest of the mixture down into the baking pan with your hands, making sure it's as even as possible. Bake the shortbread for 14-15 minutes, until it is lightly brown.
In the meantime, combine the remaining flour-butter mixture with the oats, brown sugar, and nuts. Adding the butter you set aside earlier, rub the mixture together with your fingers until it creates large clumps and kind of adheres together, but still looks crumbly.
In a small bowl, mash up the raspberries a bit, then add the jam. Test for sweetness/sourness and add the lemon juice if it's too sweet (the lemon also keeps the raspberries a nice bright color). Mash it together. Pour the raspberry mixture over the shortbread and spread with a spatula.
Sprinkle the streusel evenly over the shortbread and raspberries.
Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling and the top is golden brown. Cool on a rack until room temperature or just warm, then cut into squares.
I will admit that I have never been big on salad. We didn't eat a lot of salad growing up because a lot of our favorite vegetable dishes were cooked. (Pinakbet, a type of vegetable stirfry is one of my all-time faves).
The reason we eat salad, like, three or four times a week now is because I've finally dialed in the easiest salad ever.
How? I finally started buying bag salad and spinning it in my trusty Oxo salad spinner. I used to buy each of the types of greens, then wash all the dirt off of them, tear the leaves into bits, rinse them again, then spin them in the salad spinner. I liked the salad in the end, but the process was a real turnoff, so odds are I would look at the lettuce in the fridge and grab the stir-fry-easy snow peas instead.
Also, I make my own dressing.
I hate bottled dressing. It always tastes kind of chemical to me, and it is always too sour, too sweet, or too creamy. I started making my own, which started out as ambitious as the lettuce I talked about above. This also had me reaching for the snow peas instead. Finally, I figured out how to reduce the ingredients to only the bare essentials. My basic rule of thumb is 4 parts oil, 2 parts vinegar, 1 part honey or other sweetness. Then, on top of that, add whatever floats your boat. I only make enough dressing to coat the greens a bit so they aren't drowning. Now salad is thrown together literally two minutes before dinner.
I personally like salad to have elements of bitter, sweet and crunch. For bitter, my favorite is arugula (otherwise known as rucola, or rocket). I basically don't make salad at home without arugula now (even though generally I find it an overused nouveau ingredient in other things). For sweet I put a bit of honey in the dressing. And for crunch I really like salted pecans.
Find a variation you like of these ingredients, and you'll probably find yourself eating salad almost every day too.
Everyday salad Serves 4
Ingredients 150-200 grams baby salad greens (I like a combination of arugula, baby chard and curly leaf lettuce -- this is what's in my fave salad mix) 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 clove garlic, minced ½ tablespoon honey a couple pinches of salt a few grinds of black pepper handful of chopped salted pecans
Rinse the greens and spin them in a salad spinner. Add the pecans. Set in a bowl and place the bowl in the fridge.
Place the garlic in a small bowl. Add the balsamic vinegar, then the olive oil. Pour the honey into the same measuring spoon that you used for the olive oil. (This will keep the honey from sticking to the spoon – a brilliant tip I learned from Alton Brown!) Add the salt and pepper. Whisk together the ingredients. (Alternatively, you can place all the ingredients in a small jar, close the lid and shake it like mad. All you really need is to make sure the vinegar and oil come together.)
Pour the dressing over the greens and mix. Serve immediately.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Madeleines (with the right tin)
Last year, I posted a recipe for teacakes because I couldn't find a proper madeleine tin here in Den Haag. I even went to the chi-chi DOK kitchen shop in the Passage (definitely my fave kitchen shop in town) and asked about it: yes, they had silicone baking forms for madeleines as well as non-stick baking tins: neither of which I wanted. Not that you couldn't bake using those: I just feel like the regular tins maybe brown better -- perhaps because you have to properly prep them with butter and flour. (Or maybe it's just because I find them more aesthetically pleasing? Yes, I'm shallow.)
A few weeks ago, I was standing in the baking section at DOK with my friend Deb (who was visiting from Boston), and lo and behold, the regular metal madeleine baking tins were shining at me from a lower shelf. Yay! Deb bought me two of them as a prezzie (thanks Deb!), and I was on my way to baking proper madeleines.
Like the teacakes recipe, these have a mild orange flavor. I adjusted the recipe to add baking powder, which is far from authentic for madeleines. However, I find it easier to deal with because you are not entirely dealing with eggs for all the lift -- I don't have a ton of patience to "carefully fold" the flour into the eggs. With the baking powder, this recipe is a bit more forgiving. And trust me, you won't notice it when you are dipping a madeleine into some tea, a la Proust.
Almost classic madeleines
makes 24 large madeleines, or 80 tiny ones
Ingredients 1-1/2 cups sifted all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 6 ounces butter (170 grams), melted and cooled to room temperature zest of one orange 3 large eggs 1 egg yolk 3/4 cup granulated sugar powdered sugar (optional, for sprinkling)
Prepare the baking tins by buttering liberally, then sprinkling flour and tapping out the excess. Preheat oven to 450 F (220 C).
Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a large bowl.
Combine the butter and orange zest in a medium bowl and set aside.
Combine the eggs, egg yolk and sugar in the bowl of a mixer. Beat with whisk attachment for 3 minutes on medium high, until mixture is light and airy.
Sift the flour mixture into the egg mixture and fold in until it is all combined and there isn't any more dry flour. Spoon out about a quarter of the flour-egg mixture and stir into the butter. Pour the butter mixture back into the flour-egg mixture and fold in.
Spoon into the baking tins (each shell form should be about 3/4 full). Bake for about 8 minutes, until risen and golden brown.
Cool in the tin for about 5 minutes, then remove madeleines and cool on a baking rack until just warm. They are delicious with tea or coffee.
Friday, August 08, 2008
Rhubarb strawberry crumble
One of my favorite ingredients lately is rhubarb. This may be because I didn't grow up eating it at all, so it has that interesting novelty to it. I remember being curious about it in the supermarket, but that was the extent of it. We lived in a Filipino household, and it's not like they grow rhubarb in the Philippines, so that's that. My husband Kyle on the other had, grew up in a house with a giant vegetable garden out back where his parents would pull up loads of rhubarb every summer. I was actually introduced to properly using it as an ingredient by his mom, who, as I wrote in a previous post, made the most delicious rhubarb bread.
This recipe is for a crumble, which is one of my favorite desserts to make. First, it's super easy to make, like, right before dinner. Secondly, you can really improvise with the fruit, depending on what is in season and what you have on hand. You have blueberries? Pears? Go for it, just adjust the sugar accordingly. Rhubarb naturally loves strawberries and oranges, so try to use one or both of these (in the form of juice, zest, etc.) when using it. They are very, very happy together.
The crumble part is lifted from a Jamie Oliver recipe that I love because it seems to call for 100 grams of everything (sugar-- for the topping, flour, oats and butter), making it a very easy recipe to remember.
Rhubarb strawberry crumble adapted from At Home With Jamie
Ingredients 1 pound rhubarb, cut into chunks 1 pound strawberries, halved 200 grams brown sugar (1 cup, packed) zest and juice of one small orange 100 grams AP flour (1-1/2 cup) 100 grams butter, cold and cut into chunks (7 tablespoons butter) 100 grams oatmeal (1-1/3 cup) a pinch of salt
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180 C). In a medium saucepan, combine the rhubarb with 100 grams of the sugar, salt, and the zest and juice of the orange. Heat over medium heat and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add the strawberries, if using.
Combine the flour, butter and remaining brown sugar (100 grams) in a large bowl. Using a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the oats and toss it through with your fingers.
Spoon the rhubarb mixture into the bottom of an 8x8 baking dish. Sprinkle the oatmeal mixture over the rhubarb. Bake for 30 minutes until the sauce is bubbling and the topping is brown and fragrant.
I always do this. I always wait until something is going out of season before I'm like, "Oh no! It's going out of season!" This happens to me every summer with strawberries. We see the first ones appear in April or May, and usually I tell the kids, "Let's wait a bit -- those ones will be too sour yet." Then June is prime time for the berries and I usually am thinking, "Still a while to go while they're in season." Then I start seeing strawberries from Spain show up in the market and it's finally, "Uh oh..."
So with a last hurrah, I'll usually make strawberry shortcake. I actually make scone-ish, biscuit type shortcake, which I think with it's crunchy edge, tastes a lot better with berries and whipped cream. And speaking of whipped cream, I prefer this with sweetened creme fraiche, or even sweetened Greek yogurt. This is a super easy dessert, easily prepared right before dinner so the the biscuits bake while you are eating.
If you prefer regular whipped cream, check out my recipe for strawberry waffles (another great dessert prepared in almost the same way.)
Don't be like me -- don't wait until they're going out of season. But if you do, this is a great way to have that last in-season bite.
Strawberry shortcakes 8 servings
For strawberry mixture: 2 pints fresh strawberries (about 1 liter volume) 1/4 cup sugar (50 g) a pinch of salt
For biscuits: 2 cups AP flour (250 g) 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup sugar (50 g) 1 stick (110 g) butter, chilled and cut into small cubes 1 large egg, beaten 1/2 cup milk (120 ml) 1 cup creme fraiche, with 1 teaspoon vanilla and 1 tablespoon sugar stirred in
Quarter the strawberries, and take 1/3 of them and mash with a fork. Combine the mashed strawberries with the quartered strawberries and sprinkle with the sugar and salt. Allow to macerate for about a half hour.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F (22o C). Combine flour, baking powder, salt and sugar in a large bowl. Add the cold butter. With a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. (You can also combine the ingredients in a food processor and give it a whiz for a few seconds.)
Whisk together the egg and milk and pour into the flour mixture. Using a spatula, mix until the dough comes together. Turn it out onto a floured surface and flatten out.
With a knife, cut into 8 squares. Place the squares on a baking sheet prepped with parchment paper. Brush tops with milk and sprinkle with extra sugar.
Bake for 12-14 minutes. Remove and cool on a cooling rack.
To serve: Place the biscuits on the serving plates, then split the biscuits lengthwise. Spoon the strawberry mixture on each biscuit and top with the creme fraiche.
I'm sure nearly everyone has those evenings where you get home and there is a five minute instance, looking around in the kitchen, where you need to decide whether you will a) try to cook something, or b) take the easy route and get takeout.
This happens to me at least once or twice a week. Thankfully, I'm not that thrilled with the takeout scene near where we live, so I tend to make "what's in the house" dinners. This is the unplanned what's-in-the-fridge-and-pantry-right-now-that-I-can-use ingredient list. I have a few dishes that I can go back to, but one of the nicest -- and easiest -- is dal.
Dal is what you call the dried, split red lentils. It is great because I always have it on hand, as well as the other ingredients on the list. I make a really simple version of it (taken from one of my favorite cookbooks by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid), flavored with cinnamon, cumin, mustard seed and curry leaves. The dal turns mushy as it cooks, so it's almost like a thick gravy that you can eat with rice -- steamed rice, which cooks in the rice cooker while you are making the dal (for you lucky ones that have a rice cooker!). All in all this dish takes about 30 minutes (take that Rachael Ray!) and involves ingredients you can always have on hand. What's better than that?
Curry leaves and mustard seeds
What's-in-the-house dal adapted from Seductions of Rice serves 4 with rice
Ingredients 1 cup dal (red split lentils) 4 cups water 1/2 stick cinnamon 2 dried bay leaves 2 teaspoons salt 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 medium white onion, chopped 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon crushed curry leaves 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro (coriander), chopped (optional)
Place the dal in a dish and pick out any stones or sediment. Rinse under cold water in a colander. Combine the dal and the water in a medium saucepan. Add the cinnamon and bay leaves.
Over medium high heat, bring the mixture to a simmer (make sure not to let it boil over-- this tends to boil over really easily.). Scrape the scum off the surface of the water and discard. Lower the heat and partially cover, low simmer, for 25 minutes. The dal should turn yellowish and look a bit watery/mushy. When it is done, remove and discard the cinnamon and bay leaves, and add the salt.
While the dal is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee over medium heat in a small saucepan (that has a cover). Add the mustard seeds, give it a stir to coat it in the oil and cover. Wait until you hear popping (this is why it is important to cover it). When the popping has mostly subsided, uncover and immediately add the cumin seeds and curry leaves. Stir to combine, then add the onion and garlic. Stir until the onions are soft and even a little bit brown on the edges.
Add the onion spice mixture to the dal when it is done. Cook over medium heat to combine the flavors for 5 minutes. Sprinkle the cilantro over it and serve immediately with rice.
If you go to any summertime event at which a large number of Filipino-Americans are gathered, I guarantee that you will see some version of barbeque pork skewers. Often at food stands it is listed as "pork on a stick", serving as an example of how Filipinos keep it real when it comes to food descriptions (no fancy menu language here!) Here I will just call them pork skewers as pork-on-a-stick sounds like some kind of horrible jerky or something you would feed to your dog.
When I was growing up, my uncle made the most kickass pork skewers. I remember asking him what was in it and he always said "7up!" I thought he was full of it until my mom was like, "There really is 7up in there, you know." I thought, "Awesome. Now that is totally summertime trashy!" When I began making my own marinade for pork skewers, I started out using 7up. There is science to it, not just shock value. (Speaking of which, I was making the marinade at a friend's house once and she was watching me pour half a can of Coke in it -- there wasn't any 7up -- and she was like, "That's what we're eating tomorrow??"). The carbonation helps soften the meat, and the sugar helps the meat caramelize on the grill (this is why so many bbq sauces have copious amounts of sugar). Ultimately, I replaced the 7up with pineapple juice -- this gives it a really nice 'fruity' flavor, also a boost in acidity, but still sweet. And, as we all know from Hawaii, pork and pineapple are an excellent combination.
Whenever we've had summer barbecues, and I would literally make a hundred of these and still have none left at the end. They are kind of like lumpia shanghai -- you don't know how many you've eaten until you've eaten too many.
A couple of important factors when it comes to making the skewers: Do prepare the marinade and marinate the pork the night before. I usually give it a stir in the morning to mix things up. The pork I use is pork shoulder -- it has nice amounts of fat in it that keeps the meat moist when it hits the grill. Don't use lean pork -- it'll just get dry. Also the fat itself ends up being those little crunchy bits that you hated as a kid but love as an adult. Save a bit of marinade for brushing over the meat while it's cooking (I've adjusted the recipe so you should have about 1/2 cup leftover for brushing when you are grilling). And last but not least, soak the skewers in water that day: it'll make it easier to put the pork on it without it reducing to shards. It also keeps the sticks from burning on the grill.
BBQ pork skewers makes about 20 skewers
Ingredients For marinade: 1/2 head of garlic, minced 1/2 cup pineapple juice 1/2 cup ketchup 1/3 cup dark soy sauce 1 teaspoon sesame oil 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 tablespoon honey 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt
2 pounds pork shoulder 8-inch bamboo skewers
Combine all the marinade ingredients. Let it sit while you prepare the pork.
Cut the pork into small pieces about ¼ inch in width. It'll feel like the pieces are too small, but this is important as huge chunks will not cook fast enough on the grill. Transfer the pork to an airtight plastic container.
Reserve about a 1/2 cup of marinade. Pour the rest over the pork. Stir, put the cover on (make sure it is sealed, otherwise everything in your fridge will smell and taste like marinade). Set in the refrigerator for 8-24 hours.
In the morning, give the pork a stir to make sure it's all distributed. Set your skewers in a container of water.
About a half hour before you plan on grilling (more if you are making a lot), start skewering the pork, leaving an inch or so at the bottom of the skewer.
Heat your grill as you normally do (relatively high if you have a gas grill). Grill the pork, brushing with the excess marinade everytime you turn them over.
Serve with steamed rice, or, if you want to go classic pinoy fiesta-style, with pancit, lumpia shanghai and rice.
Monday, June 16, 2008
Stir-fried gai lan (chinese broccoli)
One of my all-time favorite vegetables is Chinese broccoli (also known as gai lan, sometimes spelled kai lan). It not only is really good for you (it's a classic leafy green, high in vitamin A and C), but it is super easy to cook and goes with just about anything. It is also really mild, absorbing the flavors of whatever you cook it in, so it is a good choice for those who are not crazy about greens. (We have this trick with my 5-year-old to get him to eat green vegetables. My daughter tells him, "It will make you really big and strong and it's good for your brain!" When he ate gai lan the other day, he said, "I can feel my brain growing!")
Classic flavors with gai lan are oyster sauce, soy, garlic and ginger. Oyster sauce is great by itself if you do a quick steam, then just pour a bit of oyster sauce over the greens. The water coming off the greens and oyster sauce will create a watery sauce that is really great on rice. My favorite though is a quick stir-fry with garlic, ginger and soy, which is how I prepare it in the recipe below.
Stir-fried gai lan serves 4
Ingredients about 200 grams gai lan 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon shredded ginger 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce, mixed with ½ cup water
Trim the ends of the stalks of the gai lan. Rinse under cold water.
Heat a wok over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon cooking oil and swirl around to coat the pan. Add the gai lan. Fry, stirring, for 1 minute.
Add the garlic and ginger and stir until combined (be careful not to burn the garlic). Add the soy mixture. Cover and reduce heat to medium low for 3-4 minutes.
Uncover and stir. You might want to check the stalks to make sure they are tender enough. If they are still tough, add a bit more water and cover and cook for another minute or two. Otherwise, taste for saltiness and add a bit more soy if it's not salty enough.
Clockwise, from top left: Canarian mojo, Chickpeas stew, Homemade naan, Chicken katsu
I started a Facebook group called Rice With Everything. (In hypnotic voice, "You must join....") Basically, I realized, when I was watching Kyle eat spaghetti sauce with rice the other day, that yes, I have managed to have an impact on him. Good or bad is up to you.
In conjunction with the group creation, I've rounded up my "must-eat-with-rice" recipes. Peruse, and make sure to eat it all with rice.
On a related note, in all seriousness, there is a dark side. I read this article about the rising cost of rice and a worldwide shortage. If you've ever been to the Philippines, you'll understand why this situation is so dire: it is basically the only food that much of the population was able to afford. I felt the rice increase halfway across the globe-- the 20 lb bag at the Chinese grocery was nearly one-third more expensive. If I'm feeling the impact of rice prices, how much more devastating is it in the developing world? (One way to have a small impact? Play FreeRice.com.)
Even in the U.S., many people are hoarding rice because of the shortages. This may be hysteria (for now, at least), but I'll tell you what this most has to do with: rice type. For westernized Asians, this most impacts the sort of rice you buy. I gotta admit, when I have to buy anything other than jasmine rice (or even particular brands of jasmine rice) I can seriously tell the difference. I'm not exaggerating when I say I may have a freak out if the specific rice bag I normally buy is unavailable, or if the price is jacked. I'm hoping this hysteria in SF is just that: hysteria.
So I think I've finally done it. I finally have the perfect kickass brownie recipe. I know your heart is palpitating with excitement (sit down, you don't want to faint) but at the same time, you're wondering, "What makes it perfect?"
We can all argue (for days, perhaps) the merits of fudgy versus chewy versus cakey brownies. Believe me, unless you are some sort of psychotic chocolate hater, you probably have an opinion on it. What I've realized is that you can't please everybody when it comes to brownies, so you might as well just make yourself happy. What do I like? For me, it is the chewy with the crackly top.
I thought I had come across the right recipe, but somehow this ended up feeling too... I don't know, intensely chocolate, almost like a flourless chocolate cake. I've been trying to find something ever since that has more chewiness, still chocolatey but doesn't knock you out-- or basically not falling over from the chocolate and sugar rush afterward.
I came across a NY Times article on this very subject. (Great article-- with a brief history of the brownie, just in case you are a food nerd like me.) In it, one of the recipes had the unusual ingredient of brown sugar, which I never thought to put into brownies. I gave this recipe a go and there was my Baking Epiphany: the brown sugar added moisture, which made it chewy, and a quick whisk on the eggs gave it the crinkly top. The only thing I found is that it was too sweet. So I adjusted the sugar by cutting back on the white sugar, and replacing some of it with brown sugar. One major plus point with brownies is that you don't have to bother with super expensive chocolate. Believe me, it won't make a difference. Just use chocolate that you would choose to eat. (If you hate Hershey's, don't use it. I'll admit, I don't like Hershey's. But I'll use Ghirardelli for brownies any day.) That is one of the things that is awesome about brownies: they are totally common, totally proletariat, but even the most pretentious, Valrhona-only-eating foodie still digs them.
With this recipe, the brownies taste even better the next day (if they last that long). They become sort of chewier; just make sure you wrap them up tightly when storing.
Kickass brownies adapted from the NY Times Makes 9 large brownies or 12 smallish ones
Ingredients 4 ounces butter (110 grams) 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (110 grams) 2 eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup dark brown sugar (155 grams) 1/4 cup granulated sugar (50 grams) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 cup all-purpose flour (56 grams) 1/3 cup chopped walnuts (optional)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180 C). Butter and flour an 8-inch pan.
Melt the butter and chocolate over low heat in a small, heavy saucepan, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in salt, brown sugar, white sugar and vanilla. Cool until just warm.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs lightly. Whisk in the chocolate mixture. Stir in the flour and nuts.
Pour the batter in the baking pan and bake for 30 minutes, until the top is shiny (you can check whether it's done with a skewer, but crumbs should easily cling to the skewer. Try not to overbake). Cool on a baking rack.
Earlier this month we had two weeks solid of summery weather, total no-jacket weather with absolutely no rain. Of course this got us thinking about barbecue. We went to the park and there were people barbecueing there, and Kyle was like, "Man, that is what summer smells like in the States." Most summers in Seattle, we would grill Filipino pork skewers (only the most kickass grilled item ever) and spend half the summer outside (since that is the only time of year you can spend any concentrated amount of time outside in Seattle).
We decided to grill that day, and of course it didn't occur to me that everyone and their mother would be grilling too (did I mention it was also a holiday weekend?) We found one bag of charcoal at the gas station, Kyle set it down for a second and yoink! some dude walked off with it. The last bag of charcoal in the neighborhood. Kyle had to bike to four different places before finding more.
When I forget to marinate something the day before, we'll just break out the burgers. I call these umami burgers because umami is that elusive "savouriness" taste that is most often provided by MSG (which I am definitely not opposed to because, you know, I'm Asian and all). Here it's worked in with Worcestershire sauce, and surprise, surprise, ketchup. (Why just have ketchup on top of the burger?) And seriously? It does not get any easier than grilling burgers (see 2-step process below.)
Umami burgers about 8 small burgers
Ingredients 1 kg ground beef 1 white onion, minced 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce 3 tablespoons ketchup 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt
Mix all ingredients in a large bowl. Form into 8 patties.
Grill!
Of course you'll want to go the extra yard and toast and butter the kaiser rolls (my bread of choice for this). Oh and cheese, and preferably some guac and it may just be the perfect burger.
When we're not having waffles on the weekend, we're usually having pancakes. With Mothers Day around the corner, I started thinking about one of my favorites: oatmeal pancakes. My mom really likes pancakes, and she really likes oatmeal for breakfast. I came across a recipe for oatmeal pancakes in Debra Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. It turns out they are in fact two great things that taste great together. And you get fiber in your weekend breakfast to boot.
My kids are big fans of these. I serve them with a sweetened yogurt banana topping. (Bananas and oatmeal: another great combo.) They are really nice with basically any fruit topping, or just maple syrup. If you're feeling really saucy you can try a Nutella chocolate sauce-- it is really delish with the yogurt-banana topping. Don't make this on a weekday or you'll be in trouble (unless whipping up pancakes before work is your idea of fun!).
Oatmeal pancakes adapted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone makes about a dozen small pancakes
Ingredients 1-1/2 cup oatmeal 2 cups buttermilk 2 tablespoons brown sugar 4 tablespoons melted butter 2 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1/2 cup flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt
Combine the oatmeal and buttermilk in a large bowl. Let stand for 20 minutes.
In a smaller bowl, combine the sugar, melted butter, eggs and vanilla and whisk until combined. Add to the oatmeal mixture.
Combine the flour, baking soda and salt in a small bowl. Add to the oatmeal mixture and whisk until just combined.
Heat a lightly greased pan or griddle over medium heat. Drop batter in 1/4 cup portions and cook until bubbles form on the surface, then flip and cook on the other side for a bit longer. Serve immediately, or keep warm in a 200 F (90 C) oven.
Yogurt banana topping 3/4 cup plain yogurt 1/4 cup sour cream or creme fraiche 3 tablespoons brown sugar (more or less for sweetness) 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 ripe banana, sliced
Combine the yogurt, sour cream, brown sugar and vanilla and stir until combined. Taste for sweetness, adding more brown sugar if necessary.
Add the banana and serve immediately.
Nutella topping 1/4 cup Nutella spread 3 tablespoons boiling water
In a medium bowl, combine the Nutella with the water. Whisk quickly until smooth-- the chocolate will seize and will initially look kind of lumpy, but it will smooth out with whisking.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
How to make Filipino leche flan
Yes, I know I've been terrible about posting (omg, has it really been almost a month??) But between starting a new job, being terribly sick and then having my kids terribly sick, I think it's understandable.
A few days ago one of my colleagues asked me if I've ever uploaded video for my blog. So I decided to make a Filipino style leche flan simply because on paper, it looks super easy because there are so few ingredients, but it is actually a bit difficult to make. I made at least a couple dozen of these babies before my mom (my food critic for all things Filipino) actually said, "Hey, this is good!"
So here is said video. Excuse the YouTube quality crappiness. I'll try to do something about that. Oh, and I'll post the recipe next. Enjoy!
Update: Man, YouTube turns videos into a GD crapfest. I updated the embed below to Google Video which has but a *slightly* higher image quality. But it still looks like I'm making leche flan in a flippin snowstorm. What gives?
Update 2: I LOVE Vimeo! Seriously, don't use anything else for embedded videos!
On my previous post, Crispy Waffle reader Kathleen asked about rice pudding. This was good timing because rice pudding is one of those things I've been craving a lot of lately. It is one of those foods that makes everyone as happy as a baby because it essentially resembles baby food. (But tastes better of course.)
This particular recipe is really easy because all it requires leftover rice; you can use already cooked rice. We always, always have leftover rice, usually sitting in the rice cooker from last night. (Go to any Asian's house. You'll probably find leftover rice from last night in the rice cooker.) One thing I noticed is that this recipe actually works best with room temperature rice. If the rice has been refrigerated overnight, it does not seem to absorb the milk as nicely, and the pudding becomes more soupy. So if you have leftover rice, make sure it is soft and at room temperature. Save the cold rice for fried rice.
If you don't have leftover rice, simply prepare 1 cup of uncooked rice for this recipe, as you would normally cook rice. You can make the below recipe immediately after the rice is cooked, and it'll come out fine.
One thing that makes this pudding extra yummy is that I use a vanilla pod rather than vanilla extract. You get those crunchy little bits of vanilla and a bigger hit of vanilla taste this way.
Rice pudding makes about 6 servings Ingredients 2-1/2 cups whole milk 1/2 cup heavy cream 3 cups cooked rice 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
In a heavy medium saucepan, combine all the ingredients.
Cook over medium heat, stirring, until mixture comes to a simmer. Lower heat and simmer for about 15-20 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thickened.
Saturday, March 01, 2008
Revisiting a classic: chocolate chip cookies
I can bet nine times out of ten when I ask my kids what they want for dessert (and I'm in the mood to make it, that is) that they will ask for the same thing: chocolate chip cookies. Somehow this isn't surprising, even though I make tons of their other favorites: rice pudding, brownies, various tarts, ice cream even. Is it a lack of creativity? Or is it true that Americans are always craving chocolate chip cookies? (Actually, when their friends are over, none of whom are American, this is the one thing besides popcorn that they can all agree on eating).
I earlier posted a recipe on chocolate chip cookies, but this is the version that I almost always go to. A couple of key things: make sure to toast the nuts first (if you are using them). This makes a huge difference in flavor. This recipe, which I've adapted and adjusted from The Best Recipe, creates not-too-sweet cookies that are chewy, rather than crispy. Do take them out of the oven earlier rather than later-- if you overbake them, they will end up crunchy later on. (They are still great later on, but I won't lie; they are definitely best a few minutes out of the oven.)
A few weeks ago I was watching the movie Stranger Than Fiction. (Aside: I found that movie, cliched title and all, to be really inventive, funny and touching. Totally underrated!) In a pivotal scene, Maggie Gyllenhaal, playing a baker, gives Will Ferrell's character chocolate chip cookies. (Another funny aside: in the movie she is a tax-evading lefty kook. The name of her bakery? The Uprising.) Here is where both Kyle and I got distracted: the cookie looked great, but it was so so tiny! We were like, "what kind of baker bakes choco chip cookies the size of a dime?" Anyway, with these, you won't have a problem. Just dole at least a tablespoonful for each cookie and they will be nice and big, and taste just as good as that Stranger Than Fiction cookie looked.
Classic chocolate chip cookies makes about 2 dozen cookies
Ingredients 2/3 cup (150 grams) butter, melted and cooled to room temperature 1 cup (200 grams) packed light brown sugar 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk 2 teaspoons vanilla 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (235 grams) all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup (150 grams) chocolate chips 1/2 cup (50 grams) chopped walnuts (or pecans or almonds)
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Combine the flour, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.
Combine the cooled melted butter with the white and brown sugar in the mixing bowl of a stand or hand mixer. Mix at low speed.
Add the eggs and vanilla and beat at medium speed until the mixture has turned much lighter and airy. Scrape down the bowl and add the flour mixture. Beat together at low speed only until just combined. Stir in the nuts and chocolate chips.
Drop the dough in one-tablespoon portions onto the baking sheet, leaving a bit of space around each cookie. Bake for 12 - 15 minutes. (Take them out of the oven before they seem fully baked -- leave them on the baking sheet for another 5 minutes out of the oven and they will continue to bake a bit, but still stay chewy later.)
Remove to a cooling rack and serve warm and gooey.
Last week I was in the grocery store grabbing stuff for making tacos (we do tacos stuffed with a chicken/chile/potato mixture courtesy of an old Rick Bayless recipe, sounds odd, yes but is totally delish) when I noticed green stuff next to the jars of salsa. It was jar guacamole, and it was something I hadn't noticed before. For whatever reason, I was fascinated: avocados can't possibly taste good out of a jar. I wasn't interested enough to invest in it just out of curiosity (something I often end up doing in the grocery store) and instead I grabbed the usual avocados instead.
The main reason that the jar-o-guac mystified me is because guacamole is so easy to make. I guess there are fancy lots-of-ingredients guac, but I prefer the simplest kind that you slam together right before eating. Mine has 4 ingredients: avocados, red onions, salt and vinegar. White wine vinegar works great, so does palm or rice vinegar. The onions don't even have to be red onions. If you have scallions on hand (and you probably will for the tacos anyway) use those, or even shallots, just not yellow onions. And kosher salt or sea salt is best because the texture is a bit crunchy. The only really important thing is that the avocados are ripe. If when you squeeze one at the store and it's the texture of a baseball, then it's not ripe yet-- don't use it that day. It should be a bit soft, but not too soft. And I don't care about the specific breed of avocado, a ripe one of any sort will taste good so don't spend a fortune on a Haas one or whatever, especially if it is out of season.
And maybe I'll try and post that chicken tacos recipe one of these days.
I love guac makes about 3/4 cup guacamole
Ingredients 1 medium avocado, very ripe 1/2 small red onion, minced 1-2 tablespoons white wine vinegar Salt to taste
Halve the avocado and remove the pit. Scoop out the flesh into a medium bowl.
Put the minced onion in a small sieve and run it under cold water. (This keeps the onion from being too sharp.) Shake off the excess water and add it to the avocado.
Mash the mixture with a fork, adding 1 tablespoon of vinegar and a couple pinches of salt. Stir and taste, adding more vinegar if necessary.
Serve with tortilla chips, or tacos, burritos, whatever!
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Raspberry almond clafoutis
A couple weeks ago, The Minimalist in the NYT had a recipe for clementine clafoutis. Clafoutis is a classic French dessert, basically fresh fruit baked in a batter, not unlike pancake batter. I thought that it was a great idea because now we have tons of mandarins in the house at any given time (it is the season, after all), and I always have the batter ingredients on hand (flour, sugar, eggs), so it's about the easiest dessert you can make in a pinch.
I had my doubts, however, about the oranges. I discovered, of course, that yes, there is a reason you don't usually hear of baked fruit desserts containing fresh oranges (I'm not talking about orange zest or juice). The batter was delish, but the mandarins were, well, basically just hot oranges. Which is exactly as appetizing as it sounds: ick.
The next night, I found a better use for that great easy batter recipe: berries and nuts. Now, it's not the season for raspberries at all, but frozen berries are, obviously, quite abundant. I used toasted sliced almonds because raspberries and almonds are so happy together.
You can totally pop this dessert in the oven as you are eating dinner, and it'll be ready when you're ready for dessert. And with creme fraiche and powdered sugar, it beats warm oranges any day.
Oh, by the way, eat this for breakfast or brunch sometime. I won't tell anyone.
Raspberry Almond Clafoutis adapted from The Minimalist makes 1 9-inch clafoutis
Ingredients 1 pint fresh or frozen raspberries 1/2 cup toasted sliced almonds 3 large eggs 1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 3/4 cup heavy cream 3/4 cup whole milk 1/2 cup flour sweetened creme fraiche and powdered sugar for serving
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter and flour a 9-inch pie pan, and tap out the excess flour.
Whisk the eggs in a large bowl until frothy. Add the sugar and whisk. Add the cream, milk and vanilla. Add the flour and whisk until combined.
Arrange the raspberries in the pie pan and pour the batter over it. Sprinkle the almonds over the batter.
Bake for 40 minutes, or until puffed. It'll be a little custardy inside, but it's good that way. Serve with creme fraich and powdered sugar.
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Madeleines, or if you prefer, teacakes
Several weeks ago, we took a short trip to Lorraine, France to check out some World War II historical sites, as well as to eat some quiche lorraine at the source. One thing I hadn't realized is that in the province of Lorraine is the town of Commercy, famous for madeleines. Madeleines are, of course, the famous little cakes that triggered the memories that triggered Proust's novel A la recherche de temps perdu, (Rememberance of Things Past). (And no, I'm not the preeminent Proust scholar in the country.)
I mentioned that we were going to the region where madeleines were invented to the 10-year-old. I told her they were the cute little shell-shaped cakes. She immediately recounted her Remembrance of Madeleines Past. "Oh yeah, madeleines. I remember we were in Starbucks once and you wouldn't buy one for me." Doh! So I let her know that, "Yeah, but now you get to have madeleines that are actually good."
Although we didn't get to Commercy, she was able to have one for dessert in the town of Verdun. While we were there, I went into a hardware store to buy a couple of madeleine tins. The ones that are tinned metal rather than non-stick are actually kind of hard to find here in Holland. Some of these local little hardware stores are really weird in rural France. Right next to vacuum cleaner bags, you might find a full array of Le Creuset cookware in all colors. Anyway, I found the tins (6 euros each!) and tried to find the checkout counter. First of all, let me say that this store clearly hadn't changed since 1964. And neither had its clientele. I was the only one there under the age of, oh, 60 or so. And did I mention the lighting was like it was a garage? And there was no heat on so the proprietors were wearing their winter coats? So after waiting in line for what seemed like forever, I had to ditch the pans and leave because 1) there didn't appear to be a cash register anywhere in site, and 2) Kyle was waiting outside for me with a screaming baby.
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find those same pans here-- only non-stick and silicone. So in the meantime, tiny tin brioche pans have had to do. So maybe these technically aren't madeleines then, but teacakes. They are a bit on the dense and slightly dry side (as true madeleines are), but I've given them a bit of an orange flavor, and they are really nice for dunking in coffee or tea, if you want to go all Proust on it.
These are really easy to make -- it is basically a standard genoise batter spooned into smaller molds. Have all ingredients at room temperature, particularly the eggs, as this is an important factor. As there is no leavener, make sure to beat the eggs until they've tripled in volume. They will give the cakes their lift. As a result, it's important to use the batter right away.
Teacakes not Madeleines Makes 24 teacakes
Ingredients 4 large eggs, room temperature 1/2 cup sugar zest from one orange pinch salt 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons butter, melted then cooled to room temperature
Preheat oven to 400 F. (200 C). Butter and flour the molds, generously. This is really important if you are using standard tins, but do it anyway if you are using non-stick because it will still make removal easier.
Combine the eggs and sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer. Beat on medium-high until it has tripled in volume and a ribbon forms, about 3 minutes. Beat in the orange zest and salt.
Sprinkle one third of the flour over the egg mixture. Gently fold it in until combined. Repeat twice more, with the rest of the flour, being sure to fold as gently as possible.
Place the butter in a medium bowl. Stir in one third of the egg/flour mixture. Pour the butter/egg/flour mixture back into the rest of the batter, making sure, once again to fold as gently as possible.
Pour immediately into the molds. Bake for 10 minutes. Let the cakes cool in the molds for 5 minutes then remove to a rack. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve immediately.
We're having a lazy Thanksgiving. We live in Holland, where it's not a holiday, so everyone went to work, school, etc. So what are we eating? Chinese takeout. That said, we are going to celebrate proper Thanksgiving over the weekend, so you can forgive me for eating chow fun today.
In the meantime, I was looking at previous posts on Crispy Waffle, and have some suggestions if you haven't made dessert yet. Thanksgiving is one of those days where you want one of those 'ooh, ahh' desserts to hit the table. So here are some kickass tarts you can wow your family with. (And going along with my laziness theme, I will just link to the Crispy Waffle posts where the recipes are located.)
This linzertorte is both impressive and fast-- you can make it in a couple of hours, thanks to the sneaky cheaty lattice. Linzertorte with cheater's lattice
I haven't been doing a whole lot of ice cream experimenting lately, mainly because autumn has set in with a vengeance. You know it's fall when everyone riding their bikes in Den Haag have simultaneously busted out the ubiquitous wool scarves. (It's one of those things that makes you feel like the expat that didn't get the memo for the Opening Day of Scarf Season.)
However, I had been having an interesting correspondence with Grant, a Crispy Waffle reader all about ice cream makers and textural improvements to ice cream. A topic I've alluded to before, one of my issues with homemade ice cream is that it never seems to have the 'chew' that I want, especially after being in the freezer overnight. I've been upping the sugar-- especially basterd sugar, which contains invert sugar. Invert sugar is sweeter but has the same role as corn syrup; it does increase chewiness in baked goods, and seems to have a similar impact on ice cream. The sugar helps lower the freezing point, keeping it from being too icy. However, the ice cream was getting too sweet for my taste. I mentioned this to Grant, and he suggested an increase in milk solids through the use of dried milk powder. This was a total "oh yeah" moment for me-- I remembered reading here that milk solids also play a role in lowering freezing point, but had only accidentally accomplished this through the use of sweetened condensed milk in some recipes. So thanks to my new ice cream buddy, the texture of my homemade ice cream has dramatically improved. One of the things I love about having a blog is that it connects me to like-minded people. I have bored the hell out of people when they ask, "Do you like your ice cream maker?" and I go on a rant and rave about textural quality and invert sugar. This is a pretty good way to get someone to start eyeing escape routes in the room. Not so when you have an email thread with someone willing to rhapsodize about the virtues of Philadelphia-style ice cream versus custard-style, the ratios of cream to milk, and the texture of super-premium ice creams.
I don't have access to very 'neutral' flavored powdered milk, which Grant mentioned is important to usage in this case (you won't get that nasty dried-milk flavor invading your ice cream). I tend to use instead sweetened condensed milk and/or evaporated milk to increase the milk solids percentage, both of which have double to milk solids of ordinary milk. In the process, I've noticed that using other dairy products such as creme fraiche also naturally increases the percentage of milk solids in the mixture. Going further with this, I experimented with quark, a type of cheese that resembles a cross between sour cream and cream cheese. In fact, it is often used here in the Netherlands for making cheesecake.
The results were really nice, and resulted in an ice cream that tasted kind of like cheesecake as well. You can go with this theme, adding mix-ins that are 'cheesecakey': lemon zest, or graham crackers or cherry jam swirled in. If you don't have access to quark, you can substitute with equal parts sour cream and cream cheese. I love this ice cream with just a classic shortbread, which is super easy to make and in a way, resembles a cheesecake crust.
Quark ice cream makes about 1 quart
Ingredients 1 cup quark 3/4 cup whole milk 3/4 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup sugar 4 egg yolks pinch of salt zest from one lemon (optional)
In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the egg yolks and the sugar. Beat with whisk attachment over medium speed for 3 minutes or so, until the mixture is lightened and doubled in volume.
Heat the milk, cream and salt in a heavy saucepan over medium heat until just steaming. Add the milk mixture in a steady stream into the egg mixture, stirring with a hand whisk the entire time (so the eggs don't curdle).
Put the entire egg/milk mixture back into the saucepan and add the lemon zest, if using. Stirring constantly, heat over medium until the mixture reaches 175 degrees. (To use the old kitchen measure-- it'll be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon).
Pour through a strainer into a large bowl. Cool for just a couple minutes, then stir in the quark. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until very cold. (I like to leave it overnight or all day, when I can).
Freeze according to your ice cream maker's instructions. Freeze to let it ripen for a couple of hours, then serve with cookies, such as the classic shortbread, below.
Classic shortbread makes 1 8-inch pan of shortbread The is super buttery, so make sure you use really nice tasting butter, as there's not much else to compete with it.
Ingredients 150 grams (about 10 tablespoons) butter, at room temperature 1/4 cup powdered sugar, sifted 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1/4 cup cornstarch
Preheat oven to 300 F (150 C). Combine the butter, powdered sugar and granulated sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, and not grainy, about 2-3 minutes.
Sift the flour and cornstarch over the butter mixture and stir until blended. The dough should be rather dry, but should hold together. Press into an 8-inch baking pan. Using a fork, mark the outlines of your shortbread squares (to make it easier to cut later).
Bake for 45 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes and cut into squares.
One of my favorite pieces of cookware is my carbon-steel wok. You've seen these before: if you've ever walked into a Chinatown grocery store, they are in the aisle on the far wall, near the soup bowls and such, usually teetering haphazardly in stacks. They are really cheap-- usually unber 20 euros-- and come in loads of different sizes.
There are problems with these woks when you first bring them home. They have a nasty metallic smell. They rust instantly. They usually have cheap wooden handles that instantly turns black. But once properly seasoned, they are the most excellent cooking utensils for anything stir-fried.
You may ask, why go through the trouble? Why not buy a super nice non-stick wok made by All-Clad or Calphalon? I admit, I have a non-stick wok. But I use this almost exclusively for garlic fried rice (Filipino sinangang - yum) or making omelettes (yes, it sounds weird, but my non-stick wok is the easiest thing for cooking eggs-- they are really easy to flip!). However, the carbon steel wok is the hero of the stir fry-- you can use it over the highest heat you can get, and if it's well-seasoned, it will not only make the food taste better (all the little browned caramelized parts everywhere), but it'll be naturally non-stick as well. This applies as well to a well-seasoned cast iron pan: anyone who's used one knows that non-stick cookware is not a substitute.
I've actually combined two methods of seasoning: 1) rubbing oil into the wok surface, and 2) deep-frying chinese chives. I've never actually tried the deep frying of chives by itself, but I've heard that this is a good way, by itself, to cure a wok. I feel as though it gets rid of that weird metallic smell and taste. The thing to remember is to discard the chives rather than eating them.
Once you've seasoned the wok, whip up a batch of snow peas. This is one of the simplest things I know how to make, and the flavor is best in a wok. Plus it has the added value of continuing to season -- a seasoned wok only gets better with use.
How to season a carbon steel wok
Scrub the brand new wok inside and out with hot water, dish detergent and a scouring pad. Set on a burner over medium heat.
Using tongs, dip a wadded-up paper towel into peanut oil. Rub it around the inside of the wok until it 'drinks' up the oil.
Switch to a new wadded-up paper towel and rub the oil all around the inside of the wok. Once it seems like it's absorbed all the oil, repeat step 2.
Keep doing steps 2 and 3 until the paper towel no longer turns black when rubbing. This should take about 15-20 minutes, and will be about 3 or 4 repetitions of steps 2 and 3.
You should have a blackened area in the center of the wok - after lots of use, your wok will eventually look entirely like that.
Heat the wok again over medium heat. Add 1 cup peanut oil and a large handful of chinese chives. Fry for about 10 minutes. Discard.
To care for your wok, rinse it each time immediately after frying in it without using dish soap; just a soft sponge. Dry it on the burner rather than using towels or dish racks-- this will prevent rusting.
Stir-fried snow peas Don't substitute snap peas. Those are delicious too, but they need to be cooked differently. They will become instantly mushy in a high-heat stir fry.
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
The best (and easiest) yeasted waffle
I've realized by the comments on my Perfect Waffle post that my actual go-to waffle recipe is hidden away in another post. Both involve yeast (of course-- don't make waffles without it!), but my first recipe involves separating the eggs and whipping the egg whites right before making the waffles. Eventually, I found this tiresome on a weekend morning when I haven't even had my coffee yet. So the recipe I actually use all the time involves combining all the ingredients and raising the batter in the refrigerator overnight. The waffles are still super crispy in the morning and you don't have to bust out a hand mixer! Perfect for a pre-coffee bleary-eyed Saturday morning.
The Easiest Crispiest Yeasted Waffles
Ingredients 2 cups flour 1-1/2 tsp instant yeast 1 stick melted butter (1/2 cup or 110 grams) 2 cups warm milk (heated to about 110 degrees) 2 eggs 2 tsp vanilla extract 1 tbsp sugar 1/2 tsp salt
The night before:
Combine and whisk together the dry ingredients in a large bowl: flour, yeast, sugar and salt.
Combine the melted butter and milk. Add the mixture to the dry ingredients.
Whisk eggs and vanilla together in a separate small bowl. Add the egg-vanilla mixture to the other mixture, and whisk until well-combined.
Cover with plastic wrap and stick in the fridge until tomorrow morning. (The batter can rise for 10 to 24 hours.)
The next morning:
Prepare waffle iron as usual. Stir the batter to deflate it (it should be puffy and frothy).
Add to waffle iron the same way you would other batter, keeping in mind that this batter will rise more than batters that use baking powder instead of yeast.
The other day I was filling in some profile information on Chowhound, such as location, website, blah blah blah, but because it's a foodie message board, it had some interesting ones like "The best meal you ever had." I had to think for a second on the one labeled, "Favorite comfort food." What is my favorite comfort food? I guess for me, what it ultimately means is not just what gives me comfort to eat, but what dish am I happy to cook, and what does my family like to eat over and over again.
My friends Melinda and Mark just moved to Hawaii recently. After the envy subsided, I started--of course--thinking about lunch. Hawaiian plate lunch, specifically. Oh, you don't know what plate lunch is? Let me tell you-- it is basically the ultimate comfort food for an Asian. It's typically some sort of meat (you choose) served with heaps of rice and a huge scoop of mac salad. Double starching it-- oh yeah! (I love the double starch. At home whenever I make mashed potatoes, we end up eating it with rice.) The Filipino version of the ABC motto should be "Always Be Carb-loading".
I realized then that actually my favorite home-cooked comfort food is something that definitely falls into plate lunch world: Katsu chicken. This is totally my kids' favorite dish and about the easiest thing in the world to make. Basically it's chicken cutlet, but with panko breadcrumbs and served with rice and tonkatsu sauce. It's like, Asian chicken fingers or something. And it is delish. We eat so much katsu at home that when we moved to Holland, I was really worried about something that seems relatively minor to most anyone else: Where would I get tonkatsu sauce? My four-year-old basically needs to drown his rice in the sauce when we eat katsu, so you can't underestimate the importance of the sauce. (Otherwise, it's just fried chicken and rice, right?) I had an elaborate plan of asking all visitors from the States to bring us a bottle each time they visited, and then we would build up a stockpile. But no need, in the end I randomly found the famous Bulldog label glowering at me from the shelf at a Chinese grocery in the Hague. Yes, it was like 5 euros for a small bottle. But who cares at that point?
So pour on the Bulldog, and maybe even make some macaroni salad. Put on some Iz and at least you can pretend you're in the islands. And Mark and Melinda: eat some malasadas for me-- those donuts beat Crispy Creme any day!
Katsu Chicken serves 4 Don't bother if you don't have panko breadcrumbs; it absolutely will not be the same. If you can, try honey panko. It has a very subtle sweetness to it (and smells lovely when you pour it into the bowl.)
Ingredients 1-1/2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 large eggs 1 cup Japanese panko breadcrumbs 2 cups canola oil (or any other light-colored oil, such as sunflower oil, which is what I prefer)
With a sharp chef's knife, split the chicken breasts lengthwise so you have two equal pieces. (this will make the chicken flatter so it cooks faster when you deep fry it.) Pound (but not too thin) to equal thickness all over. Pat dry with a paper towel.
Combine the flour, salt and pepper in one bowl. Beat the eggs lightly in a second bowl. Place the panko in a large, shallow bowl or pie plate.
Bread the chicken in the typical assembly line: flour first, then eggs, then panko. Shake off excess after each step. Place the breaded pieces on a plate.
Heat the oil in a heavy 3 or 4-quart saucepan to 325 degrees (I always use a candy thermometer.)
Fry the chicken in batches, 1-2 minutes on each side. Place the finished pieces on a cooling rack to stay crispy (I noticed that they get a bit soggier if you put them on paper towels, so a cooling rack does a better job.)
Serve with tonkatsu sauce and heaps and heaps of steaming white rice.
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Wacky ice cream 1: Sweet potato
So taking advantage of my new ice cream maker, I've decided to revisit some weirdo flavors I've been experimenting with over the years, back when I was using my plan-way-ahead-of-time Krups ice cream maker. I thought, "Why not a series?" so here's the first one.
I found a recipe for sweet potato ice cream in The Ultimate Ice Cream Book, but like all of Weinstein's recipes, I modified it. (I often find his recipes sickeningly sweet, and at times even cut the sugar to a quarter of what he calls for.) I liked his idea of roasting the sweet potatoes so that they caramelize, so this is how I started my recipe.
For whatever reason, the normal grocery stores in Holland don't seem to carry sweet potatoes, and when they do, it usually is the normal pale type rather than the sweeter bright orange varieties. Don't quiz me on the variety names-- I have no idea really, besides "orange" and "yellow". So anyway, they carry sweet potatoes / yams at the big open market, but being too lazy to go down there, I picked some up at the regular store for like, 3 euros a pound or something ridiculous. But given that it was going toward ice cream, I figured that perhaps it was worth the cost.
I started with what is developing into my standard custard base and mixed in the sweet potato puree that the four-year-old kitchen helper made with a strainer. (He was bored, I wasn't letting him watch TV or play Gameboy that afternoon, so what was a boy to do?) If you don't have a four-year-old kitchen helper, don't worry; you can use a food processor instead.
The result is a sweet ice cream that, for me, tastes like a cross between candied sweet potatoes and ube (purple yam). Those who eat it must be fans of sweet potatoes-- if they aren't, this recipe won't convert them. But if you love candied yams, this will taste heavenly.
Making sweet potato puree-- the old fashioned way
Sweet potato ice cream makes about 1 quart
Ingredients 2 pounds (about 1 kilo) sweet potatoes, the kind with the orange flesh (not orange skin) 1 cup whole milk 1-1/2 cup heavy cream 3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed 4 egg yolks 2 teaspoons vanilla
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Scrub the sweet potatoes, arrange in a baking dish and bake for 1 hour, or until the potatoes are tender enough to put a skewer through easily. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temp.
Combine the eggs and sugar in a standing mixer. Beat until lightened in color and a ribbon forms.
In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and cream to barely a simmer and slowly pour into the egg mixture, whisking the whole time to prevent the eggs from curdling. Transfer back into the saucepan.
Stirring constantly over medium-low heat, bring the mixture to 180 degrees. (It'll be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon). Remove from heat and add the vanilla
Peel the sweet potatoes. Add a pinch of salt, and using a sieve or a food processor, make a puree.
Strain the custard into the sweet potato puree and make sure it's well combined. Refrigerate for at least an hour.
Freeze according to the instructions on your ice cream maker. This ice cream tastes excellent with salted pecans!
Monday, June 25, 2007
SHF: Chocolate malt, perfected
My retro craving: notice that the straw stands up straight.
I like the theme of this month's Sugar High Fridays: Cravings. There are desserts I make a lot (like brownies because they are ridiculously easy and you get your chocolate and sugar fix instantly), and then there are others that if a craving hits me, I will run out -- meaning, I will make a special trip -- and get the ingredients.
Once the weather hits the no-long-sleeves point every summer, the first thing I want is a chocolate malt. I grew up in Milwaukee, where the fave frozen confection is frozen custard, a softer version of ice cream, and fattier than gelato. Man, it is soooo good. I honestly don't know why they don't have this stuff all over the U.S. (I am partial to Kopps-- this is where I would get my turtle sundae fix as a kid.) Chocolate malts are alive and well in the Midwest, like, real chocolate malts where: 1) it is so thick the straw stands up, and 2) they always, always give you the tin with the extra malt in it that was used in the shake blender. You know, because it's not fattening enough just to have the malt that's in the glass, right?
So where I live now (Europe) chocolate malts are non-existent, so I make my own. This way, I can also take total charge of the ingredients, so I'll use ice cream and chocolate syrup I made. And, of course, Horlicks malt powder which thankfully I can get at the British expat store. Don't use that Carnation stuff, which is super sweet and has chocolate powder in it and whatnot. Horlicks can be found, oddly enough, in a lot of Asian grocery stores. This is the stuff that will make you an addict. Oh, speaking of, as a kid I ate a lot of the Horlicks malt tablets, which were a type of candy. I cannot find this stuff anywhere! I wonder if anyone else craves this-- I know I didn't imagine it because my sister remembers them too.
There are purists who believe that chocolate malts should be made with vanilla ice cream, obtaining their chocolate flavor from just the syrup. I don't care either way; but I personally prefer it with vanilla ice cream just because it seems to taste like just the right ratio of chocolate to malt. Plus there's something about the chocolate that comes from a syrup that gives it that kitschy, retro soda fountain taste. (I don't know how else to explain it. But anyway, a premium, super chocolate ice cream is not going to get you that same nostalgic taste I'm talking about!)
So make a classic chocolate malt -- you won't be disappointed, even if you make it with store-bought vanilla and Hershey's syrup. For the love of Mike, don't use ice cubes. But make sure to use the Horlicks.
My ideal chocolate malt makes one large malt, or two short ones, if you want to share
Ingredients 3 scoops vanilla ice cream (my recipe for Philadelphia-style is here) 2 tablespoons chocolate syrup (recipe below) 1/2 cup whole milk (very very cold-- keep it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so) 3 tablespoons Horlicks malt powder
Pour the ingredients into a blender and pulse for 20-30 seconds.
Top with whipped cream and if you want to go seriously classic, a maraschino cherry.
Chocolate syrup I really like this chocolate syrup because it is not too sweet, but is still really chocolatey. I find commercial chocolate syrup too sugary. You can also use a tablespoon of this in a cup of hot milk to make quick hot chocolate.
Ingredients 1 cup water 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Combine the water and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk until the sugar has dissolved and bring to a slight simmer.
Add the cocoa and salt and whisk until smooth. Simmer lightly for about 3 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Let cool to room temperature. Keep in the refrigerator.
After I wrecked the freezer bowl on my Krups ice cream maker, I decided to get serious and spring for an ice cream maker with a compressor. This basically translates into an ice cream maker with its own freezer, so you can make ice cream whenever you want. After some research, I ended up with a Nemox Gelatissimo, which looks like some sort of miniature toilet. Yes, not the most attractive thing to have hogging up precious space on the kitchen counter.
Nemox Gelatissimo. Does it flush?
Anyway, it ended up being 220 euros which is a pretty good deal as this seems to usually go for about 400 euros. It seems like I'll have to make more than a few ice cream cones to make up for the cost, but hey, I have kids that loooove ice cream. Plus I can make all my weirdo flavors like corn, avocado, etc. that you can't get at the ice cream joint around the corner.
So now I am totally obsessed and have been making ice cream nearly every day. So I'm learning a lot-- I'm trying to perfect the texture, which is a much harder thing to do than get the flavorings and sweetness right. Ice cream is all about texture. So some things I've learned so far:
Too much butterfat will taste like, well, butterfat. Some Italian machines, like Simac, Nemox, etc. will churn a super fatty mixture into basically, butter. So a good balance of milk and cream is necessary.
Sugar does more than just make it sweet. Sugar also helps improve texture-- it prevents the mixture from getting too icy, and lowers the freezing point. If you are like me and are curious about food science, you can get your fill about ice cream science here. Because I live in Holland, I have access to this weird form of sugar called white basterd sugar (yes, it really is called basterd sugar, although spelled differently than, I don't know, Fat Bastard). I guess we can call this Sweet Basterd. So this Sweet Basterd is a sugar that is basically the texture of brown sugar, but white. Because it partially contains inverted sugar syrup, it makes for a 'chewier' ice cream, and this type of sweetener behaves a bit like corn syrup-- it depresses the freezing point even further. (Yes, food science again! I have to experiment with white basterd sugar for other goods that need 'chew', such as brownies. More on this later!)
White basterd sugar-- it looks a bit like shave ice, and it feels exactly like traditional brown sugar.
With these things to remember, I've been working on the perfect custard (for me, at least). I'm not there yet, but I have been able to develop my go-to chocolate ice cream recipe. This is way over the top on the chocolate, but without being too fatty; I use more milk than cream in this recipe. Try it if you want total chocolate flavor without it being too sweet.
I have been making ice cream and then letting it sit in the freezer for 2 hours before we eat it. I think it hardens up too much (our freezer is 15 degrees centigrade) past that point, but 2 hours in, the texture is that perfect chewy, a bit melty, gelato-y texture. (In the picture above, it had been in the freezer for 4-5 hours, so you can see that it has gotten more of that American style hard-scoop texture. But it was still good!)
Super Chocolatey Ice Cream makes approximately 1 quart
Ingredients 1-3/4 cups whole milk 1/4 cup Dutch-process cocoa, such as Droste 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 large egg yolks 1/2 cup white basterd sugar (if you don't have access to this, substitute 1/3 cup white granulated sugar) 3/4 cup heavy cream 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 2 teaspoons vodka (optional)
Combine the eggs and the sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer. Beat on medium-high speed until the mixture is lightened in color, and thickened, about 3 minutes.
In a heavy saucepan, bring the milk and salt to a simmer, whisk in the cocoa and simmer until the cocoa is dissolved.
Add the milk mixture to the egg mixture slowly, in a steady stream, whisking the whole time -- this tempers the eggs and keeps them from curdling. Place the milk/egg mixture back in the saucepan.
Over low heat, stir the mixture constantly, until it reaches 180 degrees F. Pour through a strainer into a clean bowl.
Place the chopped chocolate in a bowl. Bring the cream just barely to a boil in a saucepan and pour it over the chocolate. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir with a whisk until the mixture is totally smooth, with no chocolate pieces.
Pour the ganache into the custard. Refrigerate until cold, then freeze in an ice cream maker according to instructions.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Four ingredients = Tomato mozzarella tart
My friend Deb brought over some really nice plum tomatoes from our excellent (and huge!) market right here in Den Haag. They were so sweet, and I also had some cherry tomatoes from our vegetable subscription, so I had to make something that featured them. Salad? Too boring. I ended up making something just as easy: a tomato mozzarella tart that, besides the tomatoes, uses only three other ingredients that anyone might have on hand: fresh mozzarella, basil and frozen puff pastry. (I'm not counting olive oil or salt and pepper as ingredients though!)
One rule though: you gotta have good tomatoes, so none of those icky pink winter hothouse tomatoes here-- only the real deal will do.
Tomato mozzarella tart adapted from Cooks Illustrated makes one 9 x 13 tart
Ingredients 1 pound box of frozen puff pastry, thawed in refrigerator overnight 8 ounces fresh mozzarella, drained and sliced 1 pound ripe tomatoes a handful of basil leaves, chopped
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Set parchment paper on a 13 x 9 baking sheet. Lay out the puff pastry, pressing down to seal the seams between the sheets. Cut 1-inch strips of pastry to make a frame around the tart, brushing with egg or water between the layers. Bake for 15 minutes or until puffed and golden brown.
Remove tart shell from oven and cool on a cooling rack. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees F.
Slice the tomatoes into rounds and set in a single layer over paper towels. Sprinkle liberally with salt and allow to sit for 30 minutes.
Press down on the tomatoes with more paper towel, absorbing some of the moisture (this will prevent the tart from becoming too soggy).
Place the cheese in a single layer on the pastry crust. Place the tomatoes in a single layer on top of the cheese. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Drizzle olive oil over the whole thing.
Bake for 15-17 minutes. Sprinkle the basil over the tart. Cool on a cooling rack for a few minutes, transfer to cutting board or serving dish and serve warm or at room temperature.
While in Bergamo, Italy, I bought some local dried porcini mushrooms as recommended by our friend Donatella. (An aside: let me tell you-- it is soooo nice travelling with someone local to ask all the questions and tell you where to go! And she knows her food, so that's an added bonus.) I brought them home and what's the natural thing to do with them? Make risotto, of course.
Some notes: Risotto is usually stirred constantly while cooking. I've found that this doesn't necessarily have to be the case (although maybe some like the arm workout.) I add the first couple cups of stock straightaway, cover, and let it simmer away for eight minutes or so, until the stock is mostly absorbed. This way, it's off to a rockin start, and you just have to do the stir-and-add-stock for the last ten minutes of cooking or so. Plus, you can make a salad and slice up some bread in the meantime.
If you have a risotto method that you already like-- go for it. Just because I'm lazy doesn't mean you have to follow me!
Risotto with dried porcini mushrooms 4-5 servings
Ingredients 30 grams dried porcini mushrooms 5 cups chicken stock 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 shallots, minced 1/2 cup red wine 2 teaspoons sea salt 1-3/4 cups arborio rice A small handful of fresh sage leaves, minced Grana Padano, for grating
Soak the porcini mushrooms in 1 cup of hot water for 30 minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid. Add the soaking liquid to the chicken stock. Chop the mushrooms very fine.
Place the stock in a medium saucepan over low heat. Make sure it's on the burner next to the one you'll be using for the risotto. The stock will stay over the low heat as you cook the risotto.
Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Melt the butter and add the shallots, sauteing them until they are soft, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and continue stirring and cooking for a minute or two.
Add the mushrooms and wine. Stir until the liquid is mostly absorbed.
Add 2 cups stock and the salt, bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the liquid is mostly absorbed, 8-10 minutes.
Uncover, add 1/2 cup stock and stir until, again, mostly absorbed. Continue adding the stock in 1/2 cup increments until its finished. The mixture should be quite creamy, but the rice will still have just a hint of chew. Taste for salt.
Sprinkle the sage over the rice and pass the cheese for grating.
I've decided to submit this recipe for SHF 31: Neutral Territory. The theme is sweets in shades of white. To be honest, I rarely make desserts that don't involve some form of chocolate (hey, I have a house full of chocolate addicts!) but this is one of my current favorite, creamy white desserts. Plus, what's whiter than coconut and cream?
A couple of weeks ago I found unsweetened shredded coconut at the Asian grocery store. This was a big deal because 1) I wasn't sure I could get it here, without shredding it myself, and 2) it was hella cheap. A bag the size of say, a box of cereal was 1.65 euro. So I bought half that-- it was 80 cents -- and I still have a huge plastic container of it. As a result of this bounty, I decided to work on coconut cream pie.
I inserted coconut into every element of the pie: the crust, the custard, and I put toasted coconut on the top. I usually dislike American coconut cream pie because it is made with sweetened coconut flakes (gross) and it doesn't taste much like real coconut. Rather, as Cooks Illustrated put it, it tastes more like suntan lotion. (Not that I eat suntan lotion, but you know what I mean!)
The resulting tart tasted sooo good and coconut-y, but I decided I wanted to totally put this over the top. And what's more over the top than adding caramel? So first, I added dulce de leche to the custard itself. This turned out okay, but not great. What was really strange was that this version came out tasting like Girl Scout Samoas cookies for some reason, even though there was no chocolate. Tasty, but not like, 'wow' tasty.
I then was like, "Why not just set the caramel over the crust, then put the custard over it?" This simplified things because if you have caramel or dulce de leche on hand (as I usually do- yeah, that's right) then all you have to do is heat it a bit and pour it over the crust without the annoyance of adding it to the custard. Voila! This was the over-the-top tart that I was looking for, and our dinner friends, Vanja, Ruth and Rachel approved (and requested the recipe, so here you go!)
Coconut caramel cream tart makes one 9-inch tart
Ingredients
For the coconut shortbread crust: 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (115 grams) 2 tablespoons grated coconut (NOT the sweetened kind!) 1/4 cup sugar (25 grams) 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 stick butter (110 grams), cold, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 egg yolk
For the filling: 1/2 cup dulce de leche, cajeta or caramel 1 can coconut milk (a 14 oz. or 400 gram can) 1 cup milk (240 ml) 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup grated coconut (50 grams) (the same unsweetened kind as above) 1/4 teaspoon salt 5 large egg yolks 1/4 cup cornstarch (30 grams) 1 tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the topping (this is optional; I personally like the tart without whipped cream, but most people I know prefer it with the cream): 1 cup cold heavy cream 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons grated unsweetened coconut, toasted in a dry pan until brown
Preparing the shortbread crust: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (180 degrees centigrade.) Butter a 9-inch tart pan or springform pan. (If using a springform pan, you can also line the bottom with parchment paper, then butter the parchment paper.) Combine the flour, coconut, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter, and using a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add the egg yolk and bring the mixture together with your hand until it forms a ball.
Pat the crust in the prepared pan. (It is a soft crumbly crust, so I've found that unless it is refrigerated for several hours, it is almost impossible to roll out.) Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork. Bake for 15-17 minutes, until the crust is golden but not totally brown. Set on a cooling rack and cool to room temperature.
The caramel: Warm the caramel a little and add a bit of water (if needed) to give it the consistency of honey. Pour the caramel on the cooled shortbread crust and tilt the crust so the caramel covers the entire bottom of the crust. Cool to room temperature.
The custard: Bring the coconut milk, milk, shredded coconut, sugar and salt to a slight simmer in a medium saucepan.
In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, cornstarch and 1 tablespoon sugar together. Slowly pour the warm milk mixture over the eggs, whisking the entire time (this tempers the eggs).
Transfer the mixture back to the saucepan. Stirring with a spoon or whisk, bring the mixture to a boil and boil for 1 full minute. Remove from heat and add the vanilla and butter. Stir until the vanilla is incorporated.
Transfer immediately to the pie crust and smooth the surface. Cover with cling wrap directly touching the custard. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
The topping: Refrigerate or freeze your mixing bowl and beaters for a half hour or so. Meanwhile, toast the coconut in a dry skillet over medium heat until golden brown. Set aside to cool.
Just before serving, place the cream and sugar in the mixing bowl and beat over medium-high speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, spread over the top of the tart. Sprinkle with toasted coconut and serve immediately.
Somehow I have many friends right now expecting babies. Here's the perfect food gift to bring over for new parents who are too exhausted to cook. I don't know anyone who doesn't like quiche, and honestly, who doesn't like an all-butter pastry crust? I have two options here: one with bacon, and one with spinach and mushrooms for those that don't dig meat. But, you can basically use any savory ingredients that you would use in an omelet-- it'll all taste good.
Quiche with bacon and cheese makes one 9-inch quiche
Ingredients
For pastry crust: 1-1/4 cups flour (160 grams) 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 stick (8 tablespoons) very cold butter (110 grams), cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon creme fraiche 3 tablespoons ice water
For the filling: 150 grams bacon 1 cup shredded cheese, such as a medium Gouda or cheddar 3 large eggs 3/4 cup heavy cream (180 ml) 3/4 cup whole milk (180 ml) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon finely ground black pepper pinch of nutmeg
For the pastry crust: Combine flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter, and using a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal, with some crumbs the size of peas. (It is important that the mixture is not totally uniform.) Combine the creme fraiche and water. Add the creme fraiche mixture to the flour mixture, stirring with a fork. The dough should still be rather dry, but add up to 2 tablespoons of water until the dough gathers into a ball, but is not sticky. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
On a floured surface, roll the dough into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie dish or tart pan. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the dough to settle.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C). Prick the crust all over the bottom with a fork. Bake for 17 minutes. (If within the first few minutes of baking, the pie crust starts to balloon a bit, just push the ballooning areas back down gently with your finger.
For the filling: In the meantime, prepare the filling. Fry the bacon until crisp, then crumble into bite size pieces.
Combine the eggs, milk, cream, salt pepper and nutmeg.
When the crust is done baking, lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C). Sprinkle the shredded cheese over the bottom of the crust, making sure to cover any holes in the crust with the cheese (this will prevent the crust from leaking). Sprinkle the bacon over the crust, then pour the eggs mixture into the crust. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the crust is brown and the filling is golden and puffy.
Quiche with spinach, mushrooms and cheese makes one 9-inch quiche
Ingredients
1 recipe pastry crust (above) 3-4 ounces fresh spinach (100 grams) 8 ounces sliced button mushrooms (250 grams) 1 shallot, minced 1 cup shredded cheese, such as a medium Gouda or cheddar 3 large eggs 3/4 cup heavy cream (180 ml) 3/4 cup whole milk (180 ml) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon finely ground black pepper pinch of nutmeg
Prepare the pastry crust same as above. While the crust is pre-baking, prepare the filling. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. Saute the mushrooms until they are lightly browned. Add the shallot and spinach and continue to saute until the spinach is bright green. Season with a bit of salt and pepper and set aside.
Combine the eggs, cream, milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set aside.
Remove the pastry crust from the oven and lower oven temperature to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C). Sprinkle the shredded cheese over the bottom of the crust, making sure to cover any holes in the crust with the cheese (this will prevent the crust from leaking). Add the spinach mushroom mixture, then pour the egg mixture over it. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the crust is brown and the filling is golden and puffy.
This is the naan recipe to serve with butter chicken. I've tried buying the ready-made stuff at the Asian grocery store, but am generally not that excited about it. (A lot of the time, it just ends up resembling really doughy pita bread.) It is nothing like the crispy/chewy/a-bit-greasy naan that you get at the hole-in-the-wall. So I decided to make my own. Granted, this isn't really naan, which is prepared in a tandoori oven when it's the real deal, but it comes at least a bit closer than those packages at the grocery store. I've tried recipes from Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford (one of my favorite food writing teams-- Hot Sour Salty Sweet is still one of the best cookbooks out there, in my opinion), but they somehow seemed too involved, and seem to require huge amounts of bread-baking flour-- something I don't always have on hand. I found the go-to recipe in Joy of Cooking of all places (the 1997 edition, not the new one). It is easy, quick if you use a stand mixer, and it basically rises while you make the rest of dinner.
A bit like naan Makes 4 12-inch pieces of naan
Ingredients 2 cups bread flour (I usually just substitute all-purpose flour) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1-1/4 teaspoons instant yeast (the same type of yeast I use for waffles) 3/4 cups whole milk yogurt, at room temperature (if I'm in a hurry, I heat cold yogurt in the microwave for 10 seconds or so, then stir it so it's room temperature) 2 tablespoons cooking oil 2 tablespoons water
Combine the flour, salt and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer. Stir until well-combined.
Add the yogurt and cooking oil. Using the dough hook at medium-low speed, gradually add the water. Knead with the dough hook for 10 minutes until the dough looks nice and elastic. Form into a bowl, transfer into a large, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with cling wrap and let rise for 1-1/2 hours.
Preheat oven with baking sheet in it, at 475 degrees F. Punch down the dough and divide into 4 balls. Roll in a bit of flour and let stand, covered with cling wrap, for 10 minutes.
On a lightly floured surface, roll or stretch the dough into pieces about 12-14 inches in length and about 6 inches in width. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sea salt.
Bake for 6 minutes until light golden and puffy in areas. Remove to a cloth lined dish.
Kyle and I love spicy food. This is all fine and good, but things change when you have a gang of kids. Judging by the chicken fingers and mac and cheese all over childrens' menus, most North American kids aren't fans of the spicy. My kids won't eat five-alarm stuff, but they are generally okay with mildly spicy. I don't know why this is-- maybe because they were breastfed and the tastes come through? (I guess this applies to garlic too). Whatever it is, we're blessed because they can generally eat what we eat. (And if it's still not spicy enough for Kyle, he'll add a bit of that Canarian mojo to get the job done.)
I do have a couple of tricks up my little sleeve to get them to eat hotter food than general though: cream and coconut milk. When one of these ingredients are involved, we can add a bit more chile than the kiddos would like otherwise. Here's one of their favorite mildly spicy curries. (I know it's not real butter chicken-- there's no butter in sight-- but it resembles the butter chicken at my kids' favorite Indian place in Seattle.)
Butter chicken serves 4
For the chicken: 1/2 kilo boneless skinless chicken (either chicken breasts or thighs, or a combination of the two) 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon dried turmeric
For the sauce: 1 large onion, minced 6 cloves of garlic, minced 1-inch piece of ginger, minced 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/4 teaspoon dried turmeric 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3/4 cups pureed canned tomatoes 1/4 cup whole milk yogurt 1/2 cup water 2 teaspoons salt 1/3 cup full cream 1 teaspoon garam masala 1 handful cilantro, minced
Combine the spices for the chicken. Rub onto the chicken pieces and let sit for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, combine the garlic, ginger and a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle and pound until a paste forms. Add 3 tablespoons of water to the paste. Set aside.
In a small bowl, combine the cumin, coriander, cayenne pepper, black pepper and turmeric for the sauce and set aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons sunflower oil in a large Dutch oven over high heat. Add the chicken pieces (don't crowd) and brown on both sides-- don't worry if they aren't cooked in the middle; they will finish cooking in the sauce later. Remove the chicken pieces and set aside on a plate.
Lower the heat to medium and add the onions. Fry until the onions are just a bit browned, then add the garlic/ginger mix. Cook until the water is almost evaporated, then add the dried spice mixture. Stir carefully until the spices are fragrant, taking care not to burn them.
Add the pureed tomatoes and lower heat to medium low. Cook, stirring for about 5 minutes until the sauce has thickened a bit.
Add the yogurt, maybe a tablespoon at a time, making sure it is incorporated before adding more. (This prevents the yogurt from curdling.)
Add the chicken, along with it's accumulated juices. Stir to combine, then add the 1/2 cup water and 2 teaspoons salt. Lower heat to low, cover and cook for 15 minutes. (If you are using chicken thighs, cook for 10 minutes longer.)
Remove the chicken to a cutting board. Add the cream to the sauce, along with the garam masala and stir to combine, reducing the sauce just a bit. Cut the chicken into serving pieces and add back to the sauce, along with the cilantro. Serve right away with rice and naan (see recipe here).
Arid hills on Fuerteventura, Canary Islands. Many of the hills like this had goats grazing on them.
We just got back from Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands. It was really nice for a short sun and sand holiday, and better yet, we discovered a couple of local treats that we didn't previously know about. But first, here are some facts about the islands:
There are seven major islands in the Canaries: La Palma, El Hierro, La Gomera, Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura and Lanzarote
All canaries (the birds) descend from birds native to the Canaries (the islands). The name of the islands came first, allegedly named by the Romans when they encountered fierce dogs kept by the native population. (And so called the island 'Gran Canaria', and the people canarii, because they kept the dogs; canine being Latin for dog, of course. )
The islands have been under Spanish rule since 1495.
The indigenous population is called the Guanches.
Fuerteventura, which has a dry desert climate (only 18 days of rain a year, on average), still has more goats than people.
Some of the ingredients for mojo picón: red pepper, dried pepper, garlic
So even if my facts are iffy, no matter-- there's your primer! Anyway, back to the treats. Although the food encountered is mostly mainland Spanish (jamón serrano, tapas, bocadillos), we did find a few things unique to the Canaries. The main indigenous Canarian food staple is gofio, a toasted grain flour that is used to make porridge and desserts. You could maybe call it the poi of the Canaries. I had never seen gofio on mainland Spain, and so I bought a bag of it at the grocery, where there was an entire section of the various types of gofio. (Some consist of corn, barley, wheat, or a mixture of the different grains.) I'm going to try to reproduce the one gofio item that I ate that was delish: a dessert called mus de gofio, or gofio mousse. All the recipes I've seen so far differ immensely (some call for egg yolks, like a traditional mousse, and others call for condensed milk as a sweetener, with no egg). Hopefully I'll figure it out and post it, without wasting the whole kilo of gofio in the process!
Other Canarian specialties are queso majorero (Canarian goat cheese), and anything involving goat meat, such as roasted cabrito (roasted kid goat). (Fuerteventura has a lot of goats because of the non-vegetation-friendly climate there-- there are barely any trees on the island!) The food preparation that most captured our attention was mojo. Not mojo like Austin Powers, but mojo-- pronounced 'mo-ho'-- as in a sauce. It is basically the Romesco sauce of the Canaries, and comes in different incarnations: red mojo (the most common), green mojo, goat cheese mojo, etc. It is apparently used on nearly everything, but most commonly found on papas arrugadas, or 'wrinkled potatoes'. These are small potatoes boiled in their skins in sea water then cooked dry until they gain a wrinkly appearance. Mojo is then poured on top and it is served as the most common tapa in the Canaries. I bought a bottle of the mojo picon, the red pepper mojo, but decided to just try to make my own at home. After going through various recipes (in Spanish and English!) here's what I came up with. It is actually really similar to Romesco-- many recipes even call for almonds-- but all seemed to have the North African touch of cumin, which gives it a bit of a different flavor. Many recipes seem to call for the spicy dried red pepper found in the Canaries, but as that isn't very common, I used a typical dried red pepper, like the type found in Asian grocery stores, and used a bell pepper to give it fresh flavor, color and also to control the spiciness. (There was no point in using several dried peppers-- all you would taste is spicy and nothing else.) I came pretty close to the mojos that I had while there, and you can further adjust it to taste by using more or less vinegar as well.
Canarian Mojo Picón makes about 1 cup of sauce
Ingredients: 8 cloves of garlic, minced 1 dried red pepper 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 small red bell pepper, diced, seeds and stem removed 1/4 cup white wine vinegar 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Remove the seeds from the dried red pepper. Soak it in boiling water for at least 2 hours.
Mash the dried pepper in a mortar and pestle. Add the cumin seeds, garlic and salt, and pound until a paste is formed.
Place the paste in a blender or food processor. Add the bell pepper, vinegar and olive oil, and process until smooth.
The sauce is traditionally served with papas arrugadas. You can substitute steamed or boiled new potatoes. I had larger potatoes on hand last night, so I roasted them instead, with olive oil and salt, and they tasted crazy good with the mojo.
Friday, January 19, 2007
SHF 27: Droste chocolate cake
This month's theme for Sugar High Friday is Chocolate by Brand. Initially I thought I would participate by making something with one of my favorite dark chocolates, Scharffen-Berger or Valrhona (since I can't get Scharffen-Berger here in Europe. Or, at least I don't know where to get it.) Here in Holland, it seems even the most common chocolate is really good. Even the local grocery store chain, Albert Heijn, has their generic house brand of chocolate produced by Callebaut, the prominent Belgian company. That said, the secret is that the French win in the chocolate department. All the worthwhile chocolate shops here seem to make their bon bons with Valrhona, a French chocolate. The Belgians may know their bon bons, but the French know their chocolate.
But the winners when it comes to cocoa are the Dutch. Know the term "Dutch cocoa"? Yep, that's right, it was actually invented here, in the 19th century by one Coenraad J. van Houten. 'Dutching' is a method in which the cocoa is processed to create a more alkaline product. (Cocoa has a naturally high level of acidity. with a pH of about 5.4.) This creates cocoa that is darker, milder and less bitter. To 'Dutch' cocoa, cocoa nibs are soaked in an alkaline solution that raises the pH level to 7. In the process, it becomes darker as well, as opposed to the 'grayer' color of non-Dutched cocoa. (Non-Dutch-processed cocoa is also referred to as 'non-alkalized'.)
The most famous of the Dutch cocoa brands is Droste. It also has the most famous branding, the nun/nurse (all I know is she is described in Dutch as verpleegster, which is nurse. I've never seen a nurse like that, but whatever.) She stands on the box, staring at you with her steely, cold blue eyes. The box on her tray also stares at you with the box's nurse's steely cold blue eyes. And on and on. (In Dutch, this visual 'infinity' effect is even known as 'The Droste effect'. Sorry, I'm a graphic designer, so I couldn't resist this piece of visual history.) I guess she's trying to hypnotize you with her chocolate drink.
But she doesn't need to hypnotize us because Droste is excellent cocoa. In my mind, it makes the best darkest, tastiest chocolate cake. Don't bother with actual chocolate in your basic American-style chocolate cake; cocoa is the way to go. (Save the good chocolate for where it'll matter, such as a flourless chocolate cake or a souffle.) Chocolate does weird stuff to the consistency and never seems to actually make a basic cake taste the most chocolatey. Cocoa on the other hand, gives intense chocolate flavor in cake without compromising the texture.
This cake I made for my son's daycare class. It's fantastic with chocolate buttercream, but for a group of 3-year-olds, I skipped the frosting and just dusted it with powdered sugar. I then filled it with a thin layer of vanilla bean buttercream. The whole thing is not too sweet-- which is just the way I like desserts. The leftovers were great with tea that afternoon.
Dark Chocolate Cake made with Droste Cocoa adapted from The Best Recipe
For the cake: 1 cup boiling water 1/2 cup Droste cocoa 2 teaspoons espresso powder 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature 1-1/4 cups granulated sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1-1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt powdered sugar, for dusting
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut out 2 parchment rounds that will fit in the bottoms of your two 8-inch cake pans. Grease the pans with butter. Place the parchment rounds in the bottoms of the pans, and grease them. Dust the pans with flour and tap out the excess.
Mix the cocoa and espresso powder and pour the boiling water and mix until smooth. When it's cooled to room temperature, add the vanilla.
Whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
Beat butter in electric mixer set to medium-high speed about 30 seconds. Gradually add sugar and beat until the mixture is fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, beating one minute after each addition. Scrape down the bowl.
With mixer on the lowest speed, add 1/3 of the flour mixture, followed immediately by 1/3 of the cocoa mixture; mix until the ingredients are almost incorporated into the batter. Repeat process twice more. Scrape down the bowl and beat for another 30 seconds.
Pour the batter evenly divided into the cake pans. Bake for 20 minutes until a toothpick comes out with just a few crumbs clinging to it. Cool in the pans on wire rack for 10 minutes. Run knife to loosen cake from pans and invert cakes, peeling off parchment paper. Turn the cakes right side up and cool entirely. Prepare the frosting.
Vanilla bean buttercream: 2 large eggs 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1 vanilla bean, scraped 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 8 pieces
Bring a pan of water to a simmer. Combine the eggs, sugar, vanilla bean contents and salt in bowl of standing mixer and set over the simmering water. Whisk constantly to keep the eggs from curdling. Continue whisking until the mixture is foamy and is 160 degrees on an instant read thermometer.
Set the bowl in the stand mixer and beat with a whisk attachment on medium-high speed until the mixture is light and airy, about 5 minutes. Reduce speed to medium, and add butter one piece at a time until each piece is incorporated. (Keep adding the butter, even if it starts looking curdled; it'll correct itself once all the butter is added.)
Frost the inside layer of the cake. You can freeze the rest of the buttercream for another recipe. (To thaw, set at room temperature until softened.)
Use a paper doily or cut paper into shapes for dusting powdered sugar on the top of the cake.
Monday, January 15, 2007
Linzertorte with cheater's lattice
Sometimes I get obsessed. Then I feel restless until I do something about it. Over the past few days it has been creating a lattice-top for a tart. I think maybe it was spurred by seeing a really awesome looking tart in one of my favorite cookbooks, Baking With Julia. Or maybe it was all the appeltaart I've been baking lately, complete with half-assed tic-tac-toe-board-looking lattices on top. Or maybe I just want all my baked goods to somehow resemble waffles. I don't know. But I decided I had to fix this trivial problem by making the most classic of lattice-topped desserts, a linzertorte. The linzertorte (according to Wikipedia, where I lazily do all my research) is generally considered "the oldest cake in the world". Yeah, I guess, if a cake looked like a pie. But whatever. After baking it for friends this weekend, I realized that a linzertorte has other things going for it, namely, the amazing smell it gives off while baking. It's all spicey and cinnamony and buttery, and there is not a Yankee damn candle in the world that can duplicate it. I decided before it even came out of the oven that I would be making this tart again, even if it tasted like cat food. But thankfully, it was delicious too (especially with vanilla whipped cream), which gave it that extra advantage as a keeper recipe.
But back to the lattice. I wanted something that didn't just smell good and taste good. I wanted to make it look good, like one of those pies in the cartoons that would be cooling on the windowsill until a hobo came by and stole it. So this meant making a proper lattice. What I realized is that the trick to making a proper lattice top is to not make it properly at all. I always thought I would have to weave the strips like a basket, in which case they start falling apart and before you know it, you have a disaster of little square dough pieces. The fakey lattice has a design that starts with a giant 'X' in the middle, and the rest of the strips positioned around it. (See my photo of the completed tart, since I was bad about documenting it as I was working.) Sneaky you-- no one will be the wiser! And to make things even easier, cut the dough into strips and freeze the strips for 20 minutes and you won't have any melting or frustrating tears, followed by you in frustrated tears.
Linzertorte adapted from Cooks Illustrated with modifications makes one 9-inch tart
Ingredients For the dough: 1/2 cup toasted almonds (40 grams) 1 cup toasted walnuts (about 100 grams) 1/2 cup sugar (100 grams) zest from 1 lemon 1 teaspoon salt 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour (150 grams) 1/4 teaspoon allspice 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (175 grams), cut into 1/2 cubes 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the filling: 3/4 cup raspberry preserves (about 300 grams) 1 tablespoon juice from a lemon
Glaze: 1 tablespoon cream
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Cut a round of parchment paper to fit the removable base. Place in the tart pan and butter the parchment paper as well.
Combine the walnuts, almonds, sugar and salt in a food processor and process until finely ground. Add the lemon zest and process just a bit more, until combined.
Turn the mixture into a large bowl and add the flour, allspice and cinnamon. Cut the butter into the flour mixture with a pastry knife until it resembles coarse meal. Whisk the egg and vanilla together and add to the flour mixture. Use your hand to combine until the dough comes together.
Turn the dough onto some cling wrap and divide into three equal pieces. Combine two of the pieces into a single ball, flatten into a 5-inch disk, wrap in cling wrap and place in the refrigerator.
Place the third piece on the tart pan bottom (which is lined in the parchment paper), cover with a piece of cling wrap and roll out the dough until it is the size of the tart pan bottom. Remove the cling wrap and place the tart bottom in the tart pan. Place on a baking sheet, prick holes into the dough with a fork and bake the tart bottom for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool to room temperature. (This prebaking keeps the bottom of the tart from getting soggy when the filling is added.)
For the filling, mix together the raspberry preserves with the lemon juice and set aside until needed.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Now to make the sides of the tart. Break off one-third of it and with your hands roll it into a rope about 3/8-inches in diameter. Press it into the sides of the tart pan (the dough is very forgiving) until you have the sides all the way around.
Set the remainder of the dough onto parchment paper. Roll the dough into a 9-inch square, approximately. Cut into strips that are 3/4-inches wide. You should have at least 10 strips. (You'll probably have extra just in case.) Slide the parchment paper with the dough on it onto a baking sheet, cover loosely with a sheet of parchment and freeze for 20 minutes.
Spread the preserves mixture evenly onto the tart.
Take the dough strips out of the freezer and invert. Carefully remove the dough strips as you are making the lattice on the top of the tart. Start with an 'X' in the middle, and alternate the strips around it to create the lattice pattern.
Brush with heavy cream. Place the tart on a baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes. Cool on wire rack for 1 hour and serve with vanilla whipped cream.
Instructions for creating the lattice pattern. Just overlay the strips in the order above.
The NY Times ran a story on one of my obsessions, dulce de leche, the other week. I finally got up the nerve to do the can-of-condensed-milk-boiled-til-it-turns-into-caramel trick. This is even though the story started with an account of an exploding can of condensed milk-- which has been my fear whenever I've thought about doing it. But no matter. Now I had a set of easy instructions and honestly, since having a baby, I don't have time or patience to stand around and stir a saucepan of cajeta for an hour. The can method is just as time consuming, but a lot less maintenance. I wouldn't recommend leaving the house while it's simmering away though-- unless you like the idea of caramel-colored walls in your kitchen.
Can o' dulce de leche adapted from the New York Times
Ingredients: 1 can sweetened condensed milk, label removed
Set the can of condensed milk in a large saucepan or stockpot and cover with water by at least an inch. Bring the water to a boil and reduce heat until just simmering. Simmer for 3-4 hours, making sure that the water always covers the can entirely. (I'm assuming that it is the change in pressure if the can is not completely covered that would cause it to explode.). Remove from heat and allow the can to cool for at least an hour before opening.
Use it to top something, or better yet, just eat it straight out the can. Classy!
Friday, January 05, 2007
Appeltaart: apple pie, Dutch stylie
Although this is a post from long ago, I decided it's just the thing for SHF 34: Going Local. Enjoy!
I hate to admit it, but I don't really like apple pie. I don't care how American it is. Basically, I have worked on apple pie to make it so I would like it: I perfected a butter crust, I took away all that cinnamon that usually takes over the filling (this is an improvement-- I use copious amounts of vanilla instead), and tinkered with the type of apple used. I managed to make improvements but never got around to really liking it, so on top of all that, I smother it with vanilla ice cream.
But then I met appeltaart. Appeltaart and coffee is like, practically an afternoon ritual in Holland. This is basically the Dutch version of apple pie, and it is totally Dutch in so many ways. It is totally practical; it's not pretty, like a French tart tatin. And it's basically designed to go with coffee-- and let me tell you, the Dutch? They love their coffee, man. So it has a few things going for it. But for me, what makes all the difference in the world is the crust. Rather than a traditional American style pie crust, appeltaart typically has a sugary shortbread-like crust. The filling typically has apples, huge amounts of cinnamon (again) and raisins (ickers). Because of these filling flaws, I set out to make my own appeltaart. Recipes vary hugely, much more, it seems than with American apple pie recipes. But after a lot of trial and error (such as recipes that called for self-rising flour, and one that called for zero liquid in the crust dough!) I think I've come up with the right combination. I added a bit of orange zest to the crust because I had mandarin oranges on hand, and was just like, "What the hey? Let's try this..." Turns out the taste is excellent with the apples. Serve this with sweetened whipped cream and you won't think the same way about apple pie again.
Dutch Appeltaart makes one 9-inch taart
For the crust: 2 cups all-purpose flour (300 grams) 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar (150 grams) zest from one mandarin orange 1 teaspoon salt 12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (about 175 grams), cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 egg 1 slice white bread, processed into breadcrumbs in a food processor
For the filling: 2 pounds apples (I like Granny Smith for its texture and tartness) 4 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla
The dough before it goes into the fridge.
Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper. Combine the flour, brown sugar, orange zest and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and cut it into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. (Alternatively, use a food processor.) Stir in the egg with a fork, then use your hands to knead the mixture until it resembles, well, a ball of dough. Flatten the dough into a 6-inch disk, wrap in cling wrap and place in refrigerator for at least an hour.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll out 3/4 of the dough between two sheets of cling wrap to about a 13-inch circle (set aside the other 1/4 of the dough for the top of the tart). Set it into the springform pan. Don't worry if it tears; the dough is really forgiving, so just pat it into the bottom and sides of the pan. Scatter the breadcrumbs along the bottom of the tart crust. Place it into the refrigerator while preparing the filling.
Core and peel the apples. Divide each apple into 16 slices. (Place the apples in a bowl of ice water so they don't turn brown.) Drain the apple slices and combine with the cornstarch, salt, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla.
Roll out the remaining crust dough into strips to create a lattice-like top. (Don't worry about making it perfect-- it'll sort of 'melt' in the oven anyway.)
Place the apple mixture (but make sure not to include the accumulated liquid) into the tart crust and lay the lattice-dough-strips on top.
Bake in preheated oven for 50 minutes. Remove and cool on a cooling rack-- once it's cooled to room temperature, remove the springform sides. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.
Monday, November 20, 2006
Chocolate butter cookies
Love it or dread it, Christmas cookie season is upon us. When I was growing up, my mom would go on a baking frenzy around the holidays, making dozens of different kinds of cookies: butterhorns (my absolute favorites), spritz cookies, thumbprints, crumbly almond cookies, the list goes on and on. Because I don't have the patience that my mom has (she is the most patient person in the world, but the gene pool from my dad's side is anything but), I'm not about to sit down with a cookie gun squirting out tiny little spritz cookies (I will buy those from the bakery, thank you!).
So here's an easy cookie with two qualities I want: 1) chocolatey goodness, and 2) ease of use. All you need is great ingredients: a good cocoa, such as Droste and good quality butter. Espresso powder and salt enhance the chocolatey flavor (whenever I bake anything with chocolate, I will almost always add either espresso or espresso powder). If you split up the dough, you can have cookies fresh out of the oven for most of the week. Yum.
Twinkle twinkle, baby, twinkle twinkle
Chocolate butter cookies Adapted from Cooks Illustrated Makes about 3 dozen cookies
Ingredients: 1/2 cup cocoa 2 teaspoons espresso powder 250 grams unsalted butter (about 2-1/4 sticks butter), at room temperature 1 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 large egg yolks 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour Chopped walnuts for decorating (optional)
Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter and stir in the cocoa and espresso powder until it forms a smooth paste. Let sit for 15 minutes to cool.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the sugar, salt, remaining butter and chocolate paste. Mix on high speed until fluffy, about 1 minute, scraping down sides when necessary. Add yolks and vanilla and mix at medium speed for 30 seconds. Scrape down sides of the bowl.
Run mixer at low and add flour in three additions, making sure mixture is combined before adding next addition, and scraping down bowl between additions.
Turn dough onto counter and divide into 3 four-inch disks. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Roll out dough disk to 1/8-inch thick between cling wrap (on the bottom) and a sheet of parchment paper (on the top). (Alternatively, you can roll the dough between two sheets of parchment paper, but I find this impossible to keep from sliding around on the counter top.) Turn the rolled-out dough over, so the parchment paper is on the bottom and the cling wrap is on the top. Peel off the cling wrap and cut the dough into shapes using cookie cutters. If you want to add walnuts (as I've done-- it's an easy way to decorate the cookie), place on the cookies before baking.
Bake on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper for 8-10 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through baking. Make sure not to overbake-- do not let the cookies become too dark on the edges. Cool on cookie sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack. When cool you can glaze or decorate with melted white chocolate.
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
Waffles, not shortcakes
The Belgians are onto something. Everywhere in Brussels you see people carrying around little plates of luikse wafels with strawberries and whipped cream on top. Messy and delicious. I bought some fresh strawberries the other day and decided to recreate this favorite street food. I usually make biscuits for strawberry shortcake, but for me, this is an even easier dessert because, naturally, I almost always have waffle batter on hand. Not to say I dislike shortcake; in fact, I love it. I just love waffles more.
Strawberry Cream Waffles serves 4
For the strawberries: 2 pints fresh strawberries 3 tablespoons sugar a pinch of sea salt
For the whipped cream: 1 cup heavy cream 2 teaspoons vanilla 1 tablespoon sugar
Quarter the strawberries, and take 1/3 of them and mash with a fork. Combine the mashed strawberries with the quartered strawberries and sprinkle with the sugar and salt. Allow to macerate for about a half hour.
Preheat your waffle iron. Prepare the waffles as directed and keep warm in a 200-degree oven.
Place the heavy cream, sugar and vanilla in a stand mixer. Mix on low speed until bubbles form, then raise the speed to medium-high. The cream will start leaving a path. Continue mixing until the cream is light and airy, but make sure not to mix too long or you'll end up with butter.
Plate the waffles and top with the strawberries and whipped cream.
Wednesday, September 20, 2006
Chocolate walnut tart with cajeta (surprise!)
For my first time participating in the Food Blogger event Sugar High Friday, I settled on a tart that I make every now and then. The theme is "surprise"-- as in surprise ingredient or filling.
What I didn't realize about this tart is that whenever I make this, guests are pleasantly surprised that what appears to be a chocolate tart with walnuts is really a caramel tart with a thin topping of chocolate ganache. And you can't beat the combination of chocolate and caramel! (And for those who love walnuts, this tart is the best.)
This was originally a recipe for a chocolate caramel walnut tart out of Cooks Illustrated (my favorite cooking mag), but I've adjusted it in a number of ways. Ever since I mastered making cajeta, the Mexican version of dulce de leche, I try to keep some on hand (for what else? waffles, of course). This is my favorite caramel: it gives an extra layer of flavor that comes from that cinnamon-y, extra-milky flavor and texture that only cajeta has (and dulce de leche possesses as well, sans cinnamon). I also salt the walnuts and the ganache because salt is soooo good with caramel, and I've cut the amounts for the ganache because, well, a 9-inch tart shell just didn't seem to have enough room for the ingredients called for.
Another thing I really like about this tart is that the crust slices perfectly. I know that seems trivial, but anyone who's tried to slice a good ol' American fruit pie in front of company will understand why this is important-- if you want actual slices rather than a pile of crust and filling on a plate, then have a go at this tart.
Chocolate walnut tart with cajeta makes one 9-inch tart
For extra tasty walnuts, take all the walnuts in the recipe and toast in a 350-degree oven for about 8 minutes.
Ingredients Tart crust: 1/2 cup toasted walnuts, chopped 1/2 cup powdered sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 large egg, separated 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
Cajeta and walnut filling: 1-1/2 cups cajeta (my recipe is here), or dulce de leche 1 cup toasted walnuts, chopped, sprinkled with a pinch of salt
Chocolate ganache: 1 egg yolk 4-ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 1 tablespoon plus 1/4-cup heavy cream 1/4 cup whole milk pinch of salt 1 tablespoon of butter 16 walnut halves, toasted and sprinkled lightly with salt
Instructions For tart crust:
Whisk the egg white in a small bowl until frothy. Lift out 1 tablespoon of the egg white and transfer to the egg yolk. Add vanilla to the egg yolk and whisk until combined. (Set aside the remaining egg white in the fridge-- you will use it later to 'seal' the crust.)
Combine the walnuts and powdered sugar in a food processor and grind until well-combined. Add the flour and salt and process until combined. Add the cold butter until it resembles coarse bread crumbs.
Add the egg yolk mixture to the food processor and run until the dough forms a ball.
Remove and shape into a 6-inch disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and set in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes, lightly flour two large sheets of cling wrap. Set the dough disk on one sheet, then cover with the other. Roll out dough with a rolling pin into a 13-inch sheet. Set on a baking sheet in the freezer for 15 minutes.
Remove dough from freezer and peel off top layer of cling wrap. Overturn into a greased 9-inch tart pan. This dough is really forgiving, so just pat it into the pan and use the scraps that hang over the edges to make sure the crust is solid without holes or patches. Refrigerate crust in tart pan for 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place refrigerated tart pan on a baking sheet. Set a piece of foil in the crust and place pie weights in it, distributing evenly. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and pie weights and bake for an additional 10 minutes.
Remove the tart shell from the oven and cool the whole thing, baking sheet and all on a cooling rack. Brush the inside of the tart shell with the reserved egg white from earlier.
For the cajeta and walnut filling:
You should have approximately 1-1/2 cups of cajeta. Either let it sit at room temperature for a half hour or so, or heat it in the microwave for about 30 seconds to soften it a bit. Add the 1 cup of toasted walnuts.
Pour the filling into the cooled tart shell, spreading evenly.
For the chocolate ganache:
Whisk the egg yolk with the one tablespoon of cream. Set aside.
Place the milk and 1/4-cup cream in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer.
Remove from heat and add the chocolate and butter. Cover for 2 minutes. Use a spatula to stir the contents until you have a smooth chocolate mixture.
Stir in the egg yolk mixture until smooth.
Pour the mixture over the caramel filling in the tart shell, covering the whole thing.
Preheat oven to 300 degrees and bake for 25 minutes until the filling is still shiny and a bit wobbly.
Arrange the salted toasted walnut halves around the perimeter of the tart.
Cool on a cooling rack for 30 minutes, then refrigerate, uncovered, for 3 hours.
I admit it: I'm a bit of a snob when it comes to chocolate. I love French chocolate, especially Valrhona, and will eat it whenever possible. (My favorite American chocolate is Scharffen-Berger, which I think can compete with the best of European chocolates.) However, I am also unbelievably cheap, so I don't believe in wasting an exceptional eating chocolate on just any baked good. For example, brownies and chocolate-chocolate-chip cookies benefit from a mellower chocolate such as standard semi-sweet chips because a good American brownie seems to require a bit of that sweetness. And there is too much flour in these baked goods to allow the chocolate itself to really shine. I'll stick with good ol' Ghirardelli bittersweet chips for these treats.
Souffles, on the other hand, are a different story. In a proper chocolate souffle, there is nearly nothing to compete with the flavor of the chocolate, so this is where an outstanding chocolate can really make a difference. To give it the most intense chocolate taste, it should be a bitter chocolate that has at least 70% cacao content. (For those who aren't faint of heart, gourmet chocolate manufacturers such as Dagoba, have chocolate bars with cacao content as high as 90%.) The souffle I love is traditional; it has an egg base (utilizing both yolks and whites) and some sugar, Grand Marnier and vanilla added (although the last two can be left out if all you really want is chocolate). Souffles have an unfair reputation for being difficult to make, but once you've made one, you realize that it's not difficult; it's just timing that matters-- it should be popped in the oven at once, and then when finished bakng, removed from the oven and eaten at once if you want it to maintain that grand look (it's true-- souffles deflate almost instantly once removed from the heat).
Serve it straight up if you want a head-spinning hit of chocolate. Or if that's a bit too much of an overdose, then top it with sweetened creme fraiche.
This one didn't rise as much as usual-- I think it may be because I had the rack on the lower part of the oven, rather than the middle like I usually do. But, it was good anyway.
Intense Dark Chocolate Souffle
Ingredients 1 tablespoon butter, softened, and 1 tablespoon sugar (for preparing the souffle dish) 8 oz. 70% cacao content bittersweet chocolate (I recommend Valrhona, Scharffen-Berger and Dagoba, but any of your favorite eating chocolate will do) 4 tablespoons butter 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 6 egg yolks 1/3 cup sugar 8 egg whites 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Have rack in the center of the oven.
Butter a 2-quart souffle dish with the 1 tablespoon butter. Make sure the butter covers every surface. Sprinkle the 1 tablespoon sugar over the entire inner surface and rim of the dish. Place the dish in the refrigerator while you prepare everything else.
Melt the chocolate with the 4 tablespoons butter in a double boiler over low heat. Remove from heat and add the Grand Marnier, salt and vanilla. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool to just warm.
In a standing mixer, beat the egg yolks with the sugar at medium speed for about 3-4 minutes, until pale yellow and a bit thick. Stir into the chocolate mixture.
Clean out the mixer bowl (really well) and beat the egg whites at medium-high speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat on high until it forms stiff, but not dry peaks.
Stir one-fourth of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then gently fold in the rest. Then transfer to the prepared souffle dish.
Bake until the souffle has risen and the center is moist but set, about 25 to 28 minutes. (You can check this by inserting a wooden skewer in the side at a 45 degree angle, and it should come out not wet, but with moist chocolate clinging to it.
Sprinkle powdered sugar over the top if you like, and serve immediately.
Folding the egg whites into the chocolate mixture with a spatula
Anyone who has eaten waffles with me (yes, there are enough of you out there!) knows that I am not a fan of chemical leaveners when it comes to the mighty waffle. As evidenced by my fave waffle recipes, I always use good old-fashioned yeast for an overnight rise if I want waffles in the morning (or an all-day rise if we're having waffles for dessert after dinner).
However, I understand that this is not always practical, especially when you wake up in the morning, groggy-eyed, craving waffles with your morning coffee. I make waffles at least once a week, and I still sometimes forget to put the batter on the night before. So we end up having pancakes instead, which are still delish but sadly, not the same.
I decided that I needed to find a practical wake-up-in-the-morning-craving-waffles recipe, that utilizes those very chemical leaveners (i.e. baking soda and baking powder). I've tried many recipes that have let me down-- even the typically foolproof Best Recipe had a shoddy recipe, resulting in the same dense, soggy consistency as in every other recipe. (And to make up for this, they actually suggest to use cornmeal in the batter to add crunch. Blasphemy!) I was getting desperate.
Then I came across Alton Brown's basic waffle recipe from his episode about waffles. (After I met AB, I had actually emailed his production company requesting a waffle episode, and lo and behold, they came through! However, I was extremely disappointed-- there was not a single recipe -- or mention -- of using yeast to raise waffles. Even AB let me down. I guess my crusade continues solo.) AB's basic waffle recipe uses the same basics as a good pancake: buttermilk, baking powder and baking soda acting as the raising agents. But, wisely, Alton adjusts the ratios with the understanding that a waffle is fundamentally different from a pancake. (As an aside, I had never understood the term 'waffle and pancake mix' which is used for almost all mixes you find in the grocery store -- and, no they do not typically adjust the ratios.)
Because he gets this distinction straight, his waffle recipe actually works, and produced the first genuinely crispy waffle I've ever made using buttermilk and chemical leaveners. I was psyched to have an alternative to an overnight batter. Keep in mind though: you must eat these waffles immediately, or they lose their crispness. Ten minutes out of the iron they will end up reminding you of those insipid diner waffles you were trying to avoid. As a recipe adjustment I did not use whole wheat flour-- why try to make a waffle healthy? If I want a healthy breakfast I'll eat muesli.
I know the Belgians eat waffles with powdered sugar, or whipped cream and fruit. I like it (especially as street food), but for breakfast I am American through and through: I just want to see syrup and butter on my plate. Serve these with good maple syrup. I am in paradise since our good friend Jason left Holland-- in his moving chaos, he gave Kyle a huge bottle of Grade A Dark Amber maple syrup from Trader Joe's that he had in his fridge. Maple syrup is hard to come by here (they prefer this vile molasses-like concoction called stroop instead), and dark amber is almost impossible to come by as expat and gourmet stores only seem to stock the more expensive light amber, which has less maple-y taste. So we'll miss you Jason but thanks for the syrup!
Basic Buttermilk Waffles adapted from Good Eats
2 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 3 whole eggs 1/4 cup butter (half a stick), melted and cooled slightly 2 cups buttermilk at room temperature
Preheat the waffle iron while you set about making the batter.
Whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and sugar in a large bowl.
Separate the eggs. Whisk the yolks with the melted butter in a small bowl (make sure the butter is cooled enough that it won't curdle the yolks). Whisk the egg whites into the buttermilk. Pour the butter/yolks into the buttermilk mixture and whisk well.
Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir until combined. Allow the mixture to rest for 5 minutes.
I can't believe I haven't posted in nearly a month. Well, actually, I can. My mother-in-law died a couple of weeks ago, so we made a whirlwind emergency trip to Montana, U.S. of A. (Believe me, getting an international flight from Amsterdam at the height of the tourist season, even with a bereavement reason, was no small feat.)
Her death was sudden, and related to the Type 1 diabetes she had been living with for nearly three decades. As someone who enjoys their sugar, I always felt for Yvonne, knowing that once you have diabetes, dessert is a different matter altogether (both my grandmothers had late-onset diabetes as well, so I'm unfortunately familiar with the diet changes that come with it.)
This made my mom-in-law that much more remarkable. She continued to bake tons and tons of sweet cakes and breads for the kids and me, as well as for the rest of the family and her circle of friends. The willpower that must've taken: all that sugar in the oven and not having a taste. What a great lady!
Just a few weeks ago, I tried a recipe that had been making the rounds in Seattle-- it is the rhubarb cake that China's President Hu had for dessert at Bill Gates' house. The Seattle Times published the recipe, so I tried it. Unfortunately, I have to say, it came out awful. The methodology was really unconventional from the beginning to the end, and it had kind of a weird set of ingredients (who uses that much powdered sugar within a cake? and egg whites rather than whole eggs?) Anyway, this recipe only made me long for a rhubarb bread that Yvonne would send us every few months, and after I threw out President Hu's rhubarb cake, I wished I were able to eat her delicious bread instead.
After the funeral, my sister-in-law Danelle was looking through Yvonne's recipe files while I was in the kitchen and she found the rhubarb bread recipe. (Unfortunately, she wasn't able to find the granola recipe, which, after Yvonne found out I loved it, would also send, along with all the rhubarb bread.) I made it a few days ago and Kyle was like, "Yeah, that's my mom's legacy, right there."
So here's the recipe from my lovely mother-in-law. We'll miss her terribly, but it's nice to know we'll have little things like this to remember her by.
Yvonne's Rhubarb Bread Makes 2 8-1/2 x 4-1/2 loaves
Ingredients 1 cup buttermilk 1/2 cup salad oil (I assumed this meant just a light-colored oil, such as canola oil) 1 egg 2-1/2 cups flour 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 cup chopped walnuts, toasted 2 cups rhubarb, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces (this is approximately 2 stalks)
For streusel topping: 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter (room temperature)
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line the bottoms of two loaf pans with parchment paper.
Combine the ingredients for the streusel topping, mashing it together with a fork until it resembles breadcrumbs. Set aside.
Combine the wet ingredients: buttermilk, oil and egg and whisk together with a fork.
Whisk together the flour, sugar, salt and baking soda. Pour in the wet ingredients and stir until combined. Fold in the rhubarb and walnuts.
Pour into the two loaf pans and sprinkle with the streusel topping (there is a lot of the topping, but use all of it because this is what makes a crispy crust on top.)
Bake for 60 minutes or until a toothpick comes out with moist crumbs clinging to it. Cool in the pans.
The resulting bread is more like a moist, sweet cake with a crispy crunch from the cinnamon topping. When served warm it is delicious with excellent vanilla ice cream.
Friday, June 09, 2006
Having your (cup)cake and eating it two (ways)
Yeah I know, terrible terrible title! But I couldn't help myself. So I apologize anyway. Sorry!
Having found cupcake wrappers at the British expat store (of course it took me a while because they call it 'muffin cases', how un-American of them!) I've been psyched to start working on cupcakes again. This baking frenzy was spurred a few weeks ago when I was asked, by a fellow Seattlelite, which cupcake at Cupcake Royale was my favorite. As always when I'm talking with Seattlelites, I had to apologetically confess that actually, no, I didn't eat cupcakes at Cupcake Royale anymore because the level of sweetness makes me incredibly sick. I am always met with a totally incredulous look, and I always feel bad about this admission because let me tell ya, Seattlelites love themselves some Cupcake Royale. The problem is that in Seattle, Cupcake Royale is the only game in town; I think there needs to be some friendly competition in that space!
That said, I actually like their cake part of the cupcake quite a bit: it's got that crispy top 'lip' that is special about cupcakes as opposed to regular cakes. The part that I can't deal with is the frosting: it is truly, stickily, sickeningly sweet. I found out that it is what is known as 'American buttercream' or for those who are sticklers about accuracy, an American butter frosting (since it doesn't involve the creaming of eggs and butter that a classic buttercream has). An American buttercream consists of butter, flavoring such as vanilla or chocolate or whatever, and copious amounts of powdered sugar to give it a creamy consistency and sweet taste. Too sweet, in my opinion. But, I know there are people out there who like it, and who've grown up on American cakes and frostings. I actually have a beautiful mother who loves to bake, so we grew up either eating her cakes, or cakes she bought at Filipino bakeries. The taste in Filipino desserts is far less sweet than the typical American dessert, so preference is basically, (literally) a matter of taste.
I made a batch of yellow cupcakes and gave them two different frosting treatments: a chocolate American buttercream, and a classic chocolate Swiss meringue buttercream. I prefer eating the meringue buttercream because you can more easily control the sugar, as the texture is not dependent on the amount of sugar used, as it is in an American buttercream. But honestly, the butter + powdered sugar method is incredibly easy and worth doing if you don't have the time to do a classic buttercream (and don't mind copious amounts of powdered sugar.)
The cake I made is a favorite: you'll find it's the easiest recipe there is (I based it on a recipe from Cooks Illustrated), and it's great especially for a meringue buttercream because the icing gives you a use for the egg whites you would otherwise discard. Also, if you fill the cups up enough you will get that crispy 'lip' on the edges of the cupcakes. Delish!
Vanilla Cupcakes makes 12 cupcakes
Ingredients 1-1/2 cups all purpose flour 3/4 cups sugar 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, room temperature 1/2 cup sour cream 1 large egg, room temperature 2 large egg yolks, room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Preheat oven to 350 degrees with the oven rack in the middle position. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with cupcake wrappers.
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.
Cream together the butter and sugar until light colored and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Add the egg, egg yolks and vanilla and beat at medium speed until thoroughly incorporated.
Add the sour cream and beat until incorporated.
Add the flour mixture and beat until just incorporated.
Spoon the mixture into the muffin cups and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean, about 20 minutes.
Remove and cool to room temperature on a rack, about 45 minutes. In the meantime, prepare the frosting of your choice.
Buttercream 1: Chocolate American Buttercream For this recipe, I tried to cut down a bit on the confectioners' sugar that is normally called for in a typical recipe, but don't take it down any further because it will affect texture. If you like a less sweet frosting, try the Meringue Buttercream below.
Ingredients 2 sticks (1 cup) butter 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted in a double boiler and cooled to room temperature 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 tablespoon milk 1-1/2 cups confectioners' sugar
In a stand mixer, beat butter until smooth and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
Add chocolate and stir until just combined with a rubber spatula.
Add milk, vanilla and sugar. Beat at medium speed until just combined. (be careful not to overbeat).
Frost the cupcakes with an offset spatula.
Cupcakes with chocolate American buttercream
Buttercream 2: Chocolate Swiss Meringue Buttercream This buttercream is definitely more of a pain in the neck to make, but it has its advantages over the easy recipe above: it has a super creamy texture that you can't achieve with confectioners' sugar, it can be adjusted for sweetness while still maintaining its creamy texture, and it doesn't get crusty like a confectioners' sugar icing. Also, it actually uses less butter because it gets a lot of volume from the egg whites. All in all, I think, worth the trouble.
Ingredients 1/4 cup fine granulated sugar 2 egg whites 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 tablespoon water 1 teaspoon vanilla 1-1/2 sticks (3/4 cups) butter 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted in a double boiler and cooled to room temperature
Combine the sugar, egg whites, cream of tartar and water in the stainless steel bowl of an electric mixer (i.e. your KitchenAid bowl). Bring a large pan of water to simmer, making sure that the water is a the same height as the egg whites in your stainless bowl. Set the bowl in the pan of simmering water and whisk constantly until the mixture reaches 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Be really careful not to curdle the egg whites-- simply remove the bowl from the heat for a bit if it feels like that's happening. Also, you'll know when it's getting close to 160 degrees; the mixture will be getting ultra foamy, like the top of a latte. (A really good latte that is-- one of those kinds where it has a leaf-pattern on top, you know what I'm talking about.)
Remove the bowl to your stand mixer and beat on high speed for 3-5 minutes, until the mixture holds glossy, marshmallowy peaks. Remove the meringue to another bowl.
In the standing mixer, beat half the butter and one-third of the meringue until well combined. Continue to add the remaining two-thirds of the meringue a dollop at a time. The mixture may look scarily curdled at this point; adding the remaining butter a tablespoon at a time will smooth things out. (Basically, just keep adding a bit of butter at a time until the curdling corrects itself.)
Using a rubber spatula, stir in the melted chocolate until well-combined.
Frost the cupcakes using an offset spatula.
Cupcakes with chocolate swiss meringue buttercream
After our trip to Tunisia, I made a slightly disasterous attempt at a Tunisian-style couscous (don't worry-- it was still edible, just kind of clumpy). I had found the super fine-grained couscous at the open-air market here, but I think the cooking time was off or something, not to mention that one of the handles of my couscoussier fell off while lugging a heavy load of chickpeas to the sink. Since I had purchased a huge bag of dried chickpeas, the next day I temporarily gave up on couscous and decided to make one of my favorite stews.
This has similar North African flavors, but my personal inspiration was chicken apretada, a Filipino dish I grew up with. One aspect of that dish that I never totally liked was the chicken itself; it always seemed to dry out a bit, and it also made the stew a little greasier than I would have liked. But I love the flavors of red pepper and tomato together, and had found the perfect application when I replaced chicken with chickpeas (hey, they sound the same.) In Filipino dishes, chickpeas are more commonly used in pochero, which has eggplants and pork. But this is my unusual version of apretada-- although sometimes I will add some chicken tenders toward the end to give it that classic chicken-y flavor that I grew up with.
One added bonus of making a big batch of this is that the stew is even better the next day, once the flavors have come together and it has thickened a bit. I like to add a splash of fish sauce when I'm eating it (that's my pinay side coming out!)
Chickpea Stew (or "garbanzo apretada")
Ingredients 3 tbsp olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced 4 cloves of garlic, minced 1 medium sized red bell pepper, diced 2 15-oz cans chickpeas, drained (or 1-1/4 cup dried chickpeas cooked in advance) 1 lb yellow Finn potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 15-oz can diced tomatoes 3 cups chicken stock (or if you cooked your own dried chickpeas, use cooking liquid with some salt added to taste) 3 tsp salt Freshly ground black pepper Handful of fresh parsley, chopped
In a Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and stir until onions are a bit soft, about 4-5 minutes. Add the minced red bell pepper and continue to cook until the bell pepper softens, another 4-5 minutes.
Add the potatoes, followed by the white wine. Allow the wine to reduce to about half.
Add the chickpeas, tomatoes and their juice, chicken stock and salt. Stir and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer, partially covered until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. You can continue cooking a bit until the liquid is reduced to desired consistency (if you like a thicker stew).
Take off the heat and add freshly ground black pepper to taste and the chopped parsley.
Serve with steaming white rice and maybe a nice salad or my favorite: sweet pickled sliced cucumbers.
Tuesday, April 25, 2006
Recipes: When life hands you vanilla, make ice cream
So the weather is finally picking up here in the Netherlands. It's about time! So what do I always think about when the weather starts getting warm? The ice cream maker that has been laying dormant in my freezer for months and months, of course.
I try to make lots of flavors that I really like, but usually aren't that good when you buy them: mango, mexican chocolate, and one of my favorites, corn ice cream (which tastes exactly like the Filipino treat, maiz con hielo, which is corn kernels with shave ice, milk and sugar, yum). But in the spring, the first I always make is good vanilla ice cream. Why? Because store-bought vanilla never seems to have enough vanilla for me. I love the crunchy bits of vanilla bean in good vanilla ice cream. Not to mention it's the perfect topping for a good apple pie, but that's a topic for another day.
My favorite recipe for vanilla (after trying many) is Alton Brown's. I don't normally like "Philadelphia" style ice cream (this means ice cream that does not include an egg custard), but for vanilla, it is really nice because it keeps the ingredients to the essentials: cream, sugar, vanilla. And when there's only cream and no custard to fight with the bean, you get a much bigger hit of vanilla. However, I do away with the peach preserves in his recipe (why dilute the vanilla-y flavor with anything else?), double the vanilla, and add a pinch of salt because I always want a bit of salt in my dessert (I am Asian, after all.) Because there is no egg to add that richness, it is essential to use really good cream. We have, generally, delicious dairy products here in the Netherlands, but when I make this ice cream in the States, I am partial to Straus Family Creamery organic whipping cream and half-and-half. The cream is delicious, and seems thicker than standard whipping cream, and trust me, for Philadelphia-style ice cream, this is essential. (For most custard-based ice cream, that contains tons of egg yolks, I just use typical grocery-store whipping cream and milk). The other essential is vanilla bean. Don't even think about using vanilla extract here. I am not a vanilla bean snob (i.e. I would never waste a good vanilla bean for baking a cookie), but for custards and ice cream, I am a believer in the superiority of The Bean.
This will take some planning, meaning, you will have to let the mixture sit overnight. But it will be worth it, and perhaps you can eat some with your breakfast waffles. :)
Ingredients 1-1/2 cups half-and-half 1-1/2 cups whipping cream 3/4 cup sugar 2 vanilla beans, split and scraped Pinch of salt
Combine all ingredients (including the beans and their pulp) in a large saucepan and place over medium heat. Attach a frying or candy thermometer to inside of pan. (see note below) Stirring occasionally, bring the mixture to 170 degrees F. (Note: do not let it boil.) Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Remove the hull of the vanilla bean, pour mixture into lidded container and refrigerate mixture overnight to mellow flavors and texture.
Freeze mixture in ice cream freezer according to unit's instructions. The mixture will not freeze hard in the machine. Once the volume has increased by 1/2 to 3/4 times, and reached a soft serve consistency, spoon the mixture back into a lidded container and harden in the freezer at least 1 hour before serving.
Mmmm, vanilla... (sorry for the horrible picture-- I was more interested in eating it than photographing it.)
As a Seattlelite, I love salmon, simply because it is so ubiquitous. It also has it's virtues as an easy food at home: super easy to cook, doesn't require a grocery list of seasonings, and is hard to screw up (unless you basically set out to overcook it, which, believe me, will ruin it). Yesterday I bought a half-kilo of salmon at the fish stand without knowing what I would do with it (it was Friday, it's Lent and it's fish), but got it home and accidentally stumbled on something really good. Out of laziness I usually broil the thing with whatever spices etc. fit the bill, but this time I put it in the oven on much lower heat and the whole thing came out really really nice. It seemed to be more tender all aroundthan when it is broiled, and had a little bit of a crust from the sweet marinade. And took less than half an hour to put on the table (take that Rachael Ray!) Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures because I didn't expect anything special, but after the fam devoured it, I decided that maybe, hey, I should post the recipe.
Baked Salmon with Kecap Manis* Ingredients: 1 pound salmon fillet 2 scallions cut in half lengthwise, and trimmed to fit your baking dish 1/2 pound spinach (or any other tender greens such as swiss chard, etc.)
For marinade: 3 tablespoons dark soy sauce (often labeled 'soy sauce superior') 2 tablespoons mirin 3 tablespoons kecap manis* 2 teaspoons sugar
For sauce: 1/2 cup stock (fish stock is nice, but chicken stock is fine) 2 teaspoons salt A few drops of sesame oil 1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 teaspoons water
Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Place the whole salmon fillet in a shallow dish. Combine the ingredients for the marinade and pour over the salmon. Leave to marinate for 10 minutes.
Arrange the scallions in a row in the bottom of an 8x8 baking dish. Remove the salmon from the marinade and set on top of the scallions. Place in the oven and bake for 12-15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet, or until an instant-read thermometer reads 120 degrees at the thickest part of the fish. (Thanks to frequent Good Eats viewership, I have a digital probe thermometer, which is really handy for everything like this, not to mention Alton Brown's excellent recipe for standing rib roast.) I had a pretty thick piece of fish the other day, so it actually ended up taking about 18 minutes to reach the 120 degrees.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Combine the marinade with the stock, salt and sesame oil and bring to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Dunk the spinach in the sauce until it wilts slightly (this should only take a few seconds) and remove the spinach (sans sauce) to your serving dish. Add the dissolved cornstarch to the simmering sauce and allow to thicken slightly.
Remove salmon from the oven and transfer it and the scallions to serving dish with the spinach. Pour the sauce over it and serve with lots of white rice.
*Kecap manis is a sweet soy sauce from Indonesia. I was introduced to its virtues ever since moving to Holland, where it is used extensively in Indonesian cooking. It's readily available in Asian grocery stores such as Uwajimaya in Seattle, and is basically the same product as Thai sweet soy sauce.
Saturday, February 11, 2006
Recipes: Cheater's Soup Noodles
I've had a nagging cold lately. I haven't been, like, sick sick, just a bit under the weather-- congested and sneezing. Whenever that happens, all I seem to want are Chinese noodle soups, or mami soup, as it's known in the Philippines. The problem is when I feel that way, I don't feel like cooking, so I cheat. No homemade stock-- just (gasp) Thai boullion cubes, and (gasp) dried noodles. But, it'll taste just as good as the real deal when you're sick (and even if you're not) and if you disguise it with other ingredients. And, by the way, the whole thing takes less than 10 minutes, start to finish, so you can take a nap afterwards.
Quick Soup Noodles 2 servings I usually make this with whatever is in the house. If you have leftover chicken, add it, or if you have other vegetables such as cabbage, bok choy or any other quick-cooking leafy greens.
Ingredients: 4 cups water 2 Thai chicken boullion cubes 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon fish sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (or 1 dried whole chile) 1 garlic clove 2-3 mushrooms handful of spinach (or any other green vegetables that are in the house) 2 hard-boiled eggs 2 scallions, sliced into 1/2 inch pieces 100 grams dried Chinese egg noodles
Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Meanwhile, heat the 4 cups of water in a teakettle. When it boils, pour it into a saucepan and dissolve the boullion cubes. Add the sesame oil, fish sauce, red pepper flakes (or whole chile), and salt and pepper. Smash the garlic clove a little bit with a knife, and add it to the broth, followed by the mushrooms and spinach. Cover and simmer on low-medium heat.
Add the dried noodles to the large pot of boiling water and boil for 2 minutes. Drain, run under cold water and divide between two soup bowls.
Slice the hard-boiled eggs lengthwise and add to the soup bowls.
Pour the hot broth over the noodles and egg, and garnish with scallions.
Slurp with a soup spoon and chopsticks.
The type of Chinese egg noodles that cook fast (this is about 4 servings)...
Sunday, January 29, 2006
Recipes: Chewy chocolate chip cookies, by accident
One thing that annoys me about American baking recipes is that ingredients are always noted in volume. For example, rather than saying 4 ounces of butter, a typical recipe will say 8 tablespoons of butter. This is no good for an obsessive person like me. I need things to be PRECISE. (And I'm not the only one fighting this battle. Alton Brown notes items like flour in weight, as does Marion Cunningham. Jeffrey Steingarten has ranted about the weight vs. volume issue. No surprise that all three are some of my favorite cookbook authors and food writers.)
This issue is especially problematic now that I'm living in Europe. Not only do I have to deal with the imprecision of "1/2 cup" in a baking recipe, but now I have to make the volume conversion to metric. Thankfully, I don't have to do this too often because I have American measuring cups, but it's a problem with butter. Butter is an issue because it ought to be noted by weight, as it is in European recipes, but too often it's noted by tablespoon volume in American recipes. In America, you just slice the stick of butter to the "3 tablespoon" hashmark, right through the paper. Here, because it's noted in metric on the butter wrapper, I would actually have to break out the tablespoon. Have you ever put butter in a tablespoon? The consistency makes it a horrible thing to measure, and half of it stays in the tablespoon or measuring cup or whatever.
So, lazy me, I've been doing the conversions in my head and basically eyeballing the 250-gram stick of butter. Fortunately, the other day this half-witted methodology resulted in an excellent chocolate chip cookie, so I'm reproducing the accidental recipe here (complete with volume measurements for butter-- lucky you!)
Metric Mismeasurement Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies Normally my go-to recipe for chocolate chip cookies is the excellent Thick and Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies from The Best Recipe (one of my favorite cookbooks for American standards). I started mixing the ingredients before realizing that I may not have enough butter, so I added light cooking oil to make up the difference. Turns out I had too much butter, which is what ended up making the end-product so good: they were huge, flat and chewy and not overly sweet.
Ingredients 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 stick butter (4 oz.), melted and cooled until warm 1/4 cup light cooking oil (i.e. sunflower oil, which is what I used) 3/4 cup dark brown sugar 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1 large egg, and 1 large egg yolk 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1-1/2 cups bittersweet chocolate chips (i.e. Ghirardelli bittersweet) 1 cup toasted and chopped walnuts (optional)
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.
Stir together the flour, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
Combine the melted butter and cooking oil.
Beat the butter/oil and sugars at low speed in an electric mixer until combined. Beat in egg, yolk and vanilla until combined. Add the flour mixture and beat until just combined, at low speed.
Stir in the chocolate chips and nuts until just combined.
Drop the dough by the tablespoon on the cookie sheet, leaving about 2-inches space between the dough. Flatten the doughballs slightly in the center with your fingertips or the back of the tablespoon.
Bake for 8-10 minutes until the cookies are golden brown at the center, medium brown at the edges. Remove from the oven and cool on the cookie sheets, transferring to a wire rack once cooled.
Thursday, January 26, 2006
Recipes: Cajeta, documented
Caramel is delicious, any caramel. But the total take-the-cake caramel is my favorite, dulce de leche. This is an Argentinian reduced-milk caramel that is thicker and creamier than your run of the mill ice cream topping (which, by the way, is an excellent use for dulce de leche). So given my love of this Sweetener From God, what better way to improve things than to make it myself? The close-enough recipe I latched onto was Rick Bayless' for Mexican cajeta, which is basically a dulce de leche made with goat milk and cinnamon. This is apparently RB's favorite sweetener, judging by how many flippin recipes he has that include cajeta. But whatever; I guess you can't blame the guy for being obsessed with caramel.
So I got my friend Jason on the "time to make cajeta" bandwagon, we followed a recipe for it and had a Cajeta Disaster. I can't put my finger exactly on what happened, but it turned out like, grainy and a color kind of like tapioca, and a texture like Cream of Wheat.
Some comments: Jodie: "Why does this taste like lemons?" Kyle: "This looks like some sort of weird gravy." (and puts it on his ice cream anyway.)
I mean, the junk was off. It could have been a number of things: maybe it was the eyeballing of the actual amount of goat milk instead of actually, like, measuring it. Maybe it was the half cup of sugar and handful of baking soda thrown in at the end. Who knows. But anyway, it was wrong enough that after a sleepless night of Cajeta Nightmares, I had to set things right.
Not Quite Cajeta I call this Not Quite Cajeta because I didn't have any goat milk laying around the kitchen so I used good old-fashioned whole milk from a cow. And it turned out really nice anyway, with a really smooth texture. You should come out with about 3/4 cup of caramel at the end, which is delicioso on top of ice cream, or, what do you know? Waffles of course.
Ingredients 2 cups of whole milk 1/2 cup sugar 1 stick of cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1-1/2 teaspoon water pinch of salt
Place the milk, sugar, salt and cinnamon in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat.
Once it boils, take it off the heat and stir in the diluted baking soda—make sure to be ready to stir it down; it will bubble up and threaten to boil over the edge of the pan. Set it back on the burner over medium heat and keep stirring.
This next step takes forever, but if you've ever made risotto, you'll know what I'm talking about. Basically just stir the mixture over medium heat for about 35 minutes. Stir stir stir stir. And it'll threaten to boil over every now and then but just lift it off the burner until it settles down, dammit! and stir stir stir some more. Towards the end of about 35 minutes, a wonderful alchemy will take place and you'll start getting a golden color. It'll still be bubbly but thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
Once it looks sort of pudding-like, reduce the heat a bit, but keep stirring. After 5-10 minutes it will be the color of butterscotch and the thickness of something like Nutella spread. At this point, you can take it off the heat.
Let it cool a little, add a half-teaspoon of your favorite rum or liqueur (I added Grand Marnier) and thin it with warm water until you have about 3/4 cups. According to Rick, you can keep this in the fridge for up to a month (but you and I both know it won't last that long.)
Azucar!
Regular old milk as it looks when you first place it in the saucepan with the cinnamon
After adding the baking soda. You may have to remove the pan from heat to prevent it from boiling over.
This is what it should look like after about a half hour of simmering and stirring
Now when it tries to boil over, it'll look shiny and thick, rather than foamy
Now it's pretty much done...
The finished product, after adding some booze and water.
Monday, December 12, 2005
One of the easiest recipes I know
One of my favorite categories of foods to cook is the low-effort, high-reward dishes. And one of those, which demonstrates some of the magic that happens when simple ingredients are heated for long periods of time, is pork shoulder braised in milk.
The version I make is a slight variation of one I learned from Marcella Hazan's books. Her original is done on a stove and involves a bit more fussiness, but I prefer mine for overall simplicity -- I do it in a crock pot instead.
Here's the recipe... don't blink and miss it.
Brown your pork shoulder (also known as a boston butt) in a bit of olive oil and butter.
Put the pork shoulder in a crock pot.
Pour a few cups of milk in around the pork shoulder. I use a quart of whole milk because I'm usually cooking for a crowd, but with a smaller chunk of meat you'll want to use less.
Add salt and pepper. You could also add sage or garlic or something here -- that's what I did the last time I made this dish -- but it really doesn't need it.
Cook on low for eight+ hours. I've let it go 12 with no ill effects.
Remove the pork shoulder.
De-fat the cooking liquid using whatever method you prefer, pour the remaining cooking liquid and beautiful nutty milk bits into a pan, and reduce by half.
While the liquid is reducing, slice the pork if you can, or shred it if it's too tender to slice well.
Pour the liquid and the beautiful nutty milk bits over the top.
EAT
Unfortunately I was too distracted by the smell to snap a picture of the end product the last time I made this, but I can show you the beginning, at least.
Friday, July 15, 2005
Not lemons, but plenty of garlic
OK, so Sheryl's even stopped threatening me with bodily harm for neglecting my preserved lemon reportage. But I'm going to beg your indulgence for a bit longer because I want to talk about something possibly even more important: babaganoush.
Friends, do you buy your BBG from the grocery store? Are you regularly disappointed? I thought so. I'm here to tell you that you never need do that again, because delish homemade BBG is so easy, even I can teach you how.
First off, the ingredients list:
2 good-sized eggplants 1 lemon garlic tahini (sesame paste) salt XV olive oil
Next: Get some coals going in your barbecue. Don't tell me about your gas grill, punk, light yourself up some righteous charcoal or you might as well just bake 'em. (Which actually does work well too, in a hot oven. Or a gas grill. If you must.)
Wash your eggplants. Tear off the little crown of leaves. Take a paring knife and make several incisions in the surface of the eggplants, maybe 3/4" deep.
Peel several garlic cloves, cut them in halves or thirds depending on size, and insert your little garlic presents into the incisions in the eggplant. You may find that it's easier if you twist the paring knife a bit as you stabbity stab the eggplants.
Next, throw your eggplants on the grill:
You're going to leave them there for 30-50 minutes, with the grill cover on. Turn them occasionally, letting the skin burn and the juices ooze, until they look roughly like this:
You need to leave them until they're very soft, so that when you poke them with your tongs, they squish easily.
Done? OK, take them off the grill, slit them open to let the steam out, and let them sit while you get the food processor or blender out.
Once they've cooled (no burnt fingers!), peel and discard the charred skin. Make sure the by now deliciously steamed garlic stays behind!
Throw the eggplant and garlic into the food processor. If you like a little more garlic edge, like I do, throw in a raw clove or two.
Add the juice of the lemon, a tablespoon or so of tahini, a teaspoon of salt, and maybe a couple of teaspoons of olive oil.
Process until smooth, and taste. Here's where you come in: not sharp enough? add more lemon juice. Like it a bit creamier? Add more tahini. Going to the gym tomorrow? Add more garlic.
Serve with the usual suspects -- pita or lavash or good crusty bread. And enjoy!
I promise, this weekend, I'll drop by again with some suggestions for what to do with those preserved lemons that are hiding in the back of your fridge.
A few weeks ago, I decided to make pancakes for breakfast (usually when I have time, we carb out at breakfast-- either pancakes or waffles are the order of the day). Halfway through the process, after mixing the dry ingredients and making 'clabbered' milk (milk curdled with a tablespoon of lemon juice; handy when buttermilk isn't available), I realized that there were no eggs in the house-- something that never happens in my house. (It's basically like, if my house didn't have butter or bacon. Never!)
So instead of panicking, I thought about making scones. I had a few scone recipes that manage without eggs, so I modified a combination of a few (and used that clabbered milk as well so it wouldn't get wasted). What resulted was an unusual scone-- not fluffy, but instead crispy and delicious. It was awesome straight out of the oven with just butter (or butter and jelly, as my kids like it).
The Accidental Scone 2 cups flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 cup cold butter, cut into small chunks 3/4 cups 'clabbered' milk (3/4 cup milk mixed with 1 tablespoon lemon juice, allowed to sit for 5 minutes until thickened)
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Combine the dry ingredients in a large shallow bowl. Toss in the chunks of cold butter and toss to combine. With a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the flour until it's the texture of course meal, with some pea sized pieces of butter. Make a well in the middle of the mixture and pour in the milk. Mix with a fork until combined. On a floured surface, turn out the mixture and pat it down until it's about 1/2-inch thick. Cut with a knife into 8 triangular pieces and transfer to a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.
Bake for 10 minutes, or until it looks brown and crispy on the top. Careful when opening the oven-- hot steam will rush out and if you want to keep your eyebrows, be careful! :)
Bacon does make everything taste better! My kids aren't that nuts about veggies, but put in some diced bacon and they're all over it. I'm working on how many recipes I can generate that call for 3 slices of bacon... we'll see!
Lekker!
Asparagus with bacon
1-1/2 pounds asparagus 3 slices of bacon, diced 2 tablespoons oyster sauce Salt and pepper to taste
Heat a wok over very high heat (preferably a seasoned carbon steel wok). Once it's scorching hot, add the bacon and stirring, fry until almost crispy. Remove the bacon pieces with a wire spider, leaving a couple tablespoons bacon grease in the pan. Return to high heat and add the asparagus. Don't stir it right away; just let it sit to get some nice charred flavor on it, about 2-3 minutes. Stir it and let it sit again for 2-3 minutes until it has nice charred spots all over it. Add the oyster sauce and stir to combine. Add the salt and pepper (I add probably a 1-2 teaspoons salt). Add the bacon and stir to combine. Remove to a dish and serve immediately with steamed rice.
Giada is my absolute favorite chef on the Food Network. Here's a recipe that I cooked for Sheryl and the fam. I used farfalle pasta because it seems to grab the sauce better. Giada uses pancetta, but i substituted bacon for the pancetta and it was just as delicious. Bacon makes everything taste yummmmy.....
Pasta with Bacon and Tomato Sauce 6 ounces bacon, diced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, chopped Sea salt 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped Pinch dried crushed red pepper flakes 1 (28-ounce) can tomato puree 1 pound farfalle, or other pasta of choice 1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
Add the bacon to a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add olive oil and saute until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Add the onion and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato puree. Simmer uncovered over medium-low heat until the sauce thickens slightly and the flavors blend, about 15 minutes. Season the sauce with salt, to taste. Meanwhile, boil the farfalle in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.
Toss the farfalle with the sauce in the skillet, adding some of the reserved cooking liquid until the pasta is moist but being careful not to dilute the sauce. Toss with the cheese. Season with salt, to taste.
Tuesday, May 17, 2005
Beef and Coconut: So Happy Together....
So when Norresa and I went to see Mark Bittman speak and sign books, she asked him if he likes Filipino food. He said he doesn't know a whole lot about it, but he did say, "What I've had, I've liked." So as a nod to him, here is one of his recipes "Filipino-ized".
Beef Ginataang (based on Mark Bittman's recipe for Coconut-Braised Beef)
Ginataang is a term used for many Filipino stewed dishes that include coconut, whether sweet or salty. Usually the acidic element is vinegar or even tamarind. I prefer tamarind for it's super-tangy, slightly sweet flavor. Bittman's original recipe called for lime juice, which is also very nice for Southeast Asian recipes. I've also removed the spicy element as most Filipino stews are not spicy, but largely garlicky or gingery. To be authentically Filipino, the chili powder can be removed and annato water or achuete (achiote, as it's called in Mexican cooking) can be added.
Spice paste: 6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 1 1-inch piece of ginger, either minced or grated 2 teaspoons chili powder 3 tablespoons tamarind paste (found in Asian grocery stores) 3 teaspoons salt
Other ingredients: 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 lb chuck beef, cubed 1 can of coconut milk 2 chinese eggplants cut into large pieces 1 yellow potato, cut into chunks
Combine the spice paste ingredients in a granite mortar and pestle, or food processor and combine until it's nearly a paste texture.
Heat oil over medium heat in a large saucepan and fry the spice paste, being careful not to burn it. Add the beef and cook, stirring until it is coated in the spice paste. Pour in the coconut milk, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer.
After 20 or 30 minutes, add the potato. Cover and continue to simmer.
Meanwhile, fry the eggplant in a teaspoon of oil over high heat, until it has some charred spots. Set aside.
The meat should be tender after 2 hours, and the coconut sauce thickened. Add the eggplant and stir to keep the sauce from burning. Let the eggplant heat through and remove from heat.
This is delicioso garnished with scallions and served with white rice (jasmine, of course, for you Filipinos out there!)
My friends, I'm here to talk to you today about a serious and important issue. One that is... well, OK, it's a ways short of a tragedy, but still kind of sad.
And what is this overly dramatized issue I'm slowly getting to so slowly? Simply this:
Most of you don't have preserved lemons in your kitchen.
Now, don't protest, and don't make excuses. I'm not here to hate. I'm here to love. I was one of you, once. OK, until about January of this year. But still. On to the recipe.
Preserved lemons
There are many ways to make preserved lemons. I like this one for its simplicity, and the fact that you end up with lemon-scented olive oil at the end.
5-6 lemons 1/3 cup kosher salt 1 jar big enough to hold 2 cut-up lemons, without a metal lid. See picture below for the kind of jar I use. Olive oil
Take two of the lemons and scrub them under warm water until you're confident most of the wax they're covered with is rubbed away. But not so much that you've scrubbed the yellow off, either. Remove any stem bits.
Cut those two lemons into eigths, the long way (from pole to pole, as it were), and layer them in your jar.
Squeeze three of the remaining lemons. Mix the salt in well, and pour your lemony brine on top of the sliced lemons. If it doesn't quite cover, squeeze the remaining lemon over the top.
Cover tightly. Leave on your kitchen counter for a week, turning it over and back once a day to make sure the salt is well distributed. I generally can't resist turning it a couple of times a day, but that's because I like to fuss with things.
At the end of the week, fix a critical eye on your lemons. Have the skins started to go translucent? If you're using thicker-skinned lemons, they probably haven't, and you need to give 'em a couple more days.
Once you're satisfied with your level of translucency, pour out the brine (if you like you can clean some copper with it, or at least deodorize your sink), and replace it with a decent olive oil (not the best stuff -- the lemons will overwhelm it). Now put the whole thing in the fridge. You're ready!
If you're lucky enough to have access to Meyer lemons, this is particularly nice with them. I'd only use them for the, uh, lemon part, not the brine, since that's a bit of a waste.
OK, Mr. Wise Guy... Now that you've shown me how to make them, what am I supposed to do with them?
I'm glad you asked. But, in classic cliffhanger style, I'm afraid that's going to have to wait until next time. But in the meantime, why don't you start a batch?
Monday, February 14, 2005
Have an outrageous Valentine's Day!
Because Valentine's Day puts chocolate on everyone's mind (and because Food TV shoves Chocolate Obsession Week at us this time of year), here's my recipe for Little Outrageous Brownies. I call them Little Outrageous Brownies because I had to adjust Ina Garten's (Barefoot Contessa) recipe for Outrageous Brownies. No wonder she's gained weight-- who makes a 13 x 18 sheet pan of brownies?! So given most people's appetites, I've been working to get this recipe down to a normal-sized 8 x 8 inch pan.
This is my favorite brownie recipe so far (and believe me, I've tried a lot!). This one finally gives you that nice crackly top that you usually only get with commercial brownie mix because it has a healthy dose of baking powder-- something that is often missing from homemade brownie recipes. This also calls for a bit of instant espresso, which does wonders for bringing out the taste of the chocolate. The great thing about brownies, including these ones, is that you don't really need a super-high-quality chocolate for it (except use some great chocolate for the chips). And I made it even easier than Ina's recipe by replacing the unsweetened chocolate with additional bittersweet. Eet smakkelijke!
Yummy crackly top
Little Outrageous Brownies adapted from The Barefoot Contessa
7 oz. bittersweet chocolate (I like Ghirardelli double chocolate chips) 3/4 cup butter (yes it's a lot, so what) 2/3 cup sugar 1-1/2 tsp instant espresso powder 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk 2 tsp. vanilla 1/3 cup all-purpose flour (plus 1 tbsp for tossing nuts and chocolate chips in) 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp baking powder 2/3 cup bittersweet chocolate chips 2/3 cup chopped roasted pecans (yeah, it's a pain, but do roast them-- it tastes much better!)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt the butter and chocolate together over low heat, or over a double-boiler. Cool until just warm. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs with the sugar and espresso. Slowly pour the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture while whisking. Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. Stir into the egg/chocolate mixture until well-blended. Toss the nuts and chocolate chips in the 1 tablespoon of flour (this will keep them from settling to the bottom of the brownies) and add to the chocolate mixture. Scrape out the mixture into a nice little 8 x 8 pan.
Bake for about 24 minutes, just, just until a toothpick inserted in center comes out with just a bits of chocolate clinging to it. Let cool, cut into squares and serve with excellent vanilla ice cream. :)
After meeting AB, my obsession with the perfect waffle continues, mostly because AB has not done a waffle show. (Amazing, I know). A few weeks after returning from Holland, I was in fact able to recreate those Brussels waffles that I looooved so much. Here's a reminder of what they look like:
Yummm...
Anyway, I'm trying to get a stove-top waffle iron on eBay so I can recreate something along these lines. I currently have a Villaware from Williams-Sonoma-- it does okay, but doesn't quite get to the heat level that I need for the ultimate super-crispy waffle.Unfortunately, I have turned into a complete waffle snob. The thing is, you can't get a decent waffle in America, once you've had a proper one. The secret ingredient: yeast. Sounds annoying, I know, but if you simply think about it the night before, yeasted waffles are just as easy to prepare as regular ol' buttermilk ones. I emailed my recipe for yeasted waffles to AB-- hopefully a waffle episode is in our future!
The Crispiest Waffle 1 tsp. instant yeast (Not to be confused with active dry yeast. Make sure it says "Instant") 2-1/4 cups flour 2 tbsp. sugar 1/2 tsp. salt 1 stick butter, melted, then cooled 2 cups warm whole milk (about 110 degrees) 2 tsp. vanilla extract 2 eggs, separated
The night before you want yummy waffles:Stir together the dry ingredients: flour, yeast, sugar and salt. Stir the melted butter into the dry ingredients. Stir in the warm milk and vanilla until combined. Cover with plastic wrap (or my favorite, Press 'n Seal, yeah!). Leave overnight out on the counter.The morning you'll eat the yummy waffles:The batter should look frothy. Heat waffle iron as you usually do. Add the egg yolks to the batter. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks and fold carefully into the batter. This batter will rise a little more than usual, so test out a waffle or two before you really get started. Eet smakelijke!
Welcome to Sheryl's site dedicated to the humble waffle, among other sweet, savory and delicious things. I'm based in The Hague, Netherlands, and post recipes and travel (food, of course) photos. Mmmm...photos...