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  Thursday, May 25, 2006

In which I come around on Frank Bruni

I'm not a fan of Frank Bruni, the NYT's current restaurant critic, as I made clear in a previous post. However, with his latest column, I have to say I have come around on him (a bit). He finally puts his pompousness and snobbery aside to write about sampling as much drive-thru food as possible on a cross-country road trip from New York to California. It was one of those articles that made me a little misty with American homesickness (let's just say drive-thru is not a phrase that happens too much in Europe). I'm also psyched by his reference (and praise) of one of my favorite drive-thru establishments: Culver's, straight outta Wisconsin, where I grew up. How could you not love a place that actually, shamelessly, calls their burgers "Butter Burgers"? And, he even references Culver's frozen custard (my personal favorite is Kopp's, which is only in metro Milwaukee, but close enough). Frozen custard is one of those weird Wisconsin anomolies that I rarely see outside of the Dairy State borders, but needs to be more prevalent: it's basically a creamier, fattier version of soft serve, but the word soft serve does not do frozen custard justice. Okay I have to stop talking about this right now before I start getting really homesick.

Anyway, props to Frank Bruni for eating way more grease than I could ever possibly consume in nine days.

NYTimes: Life in the Fast Food Lane

Other links:
Wikipedia: Frozen custard
Kopp's Frozen Custard
Culver's Frozen Custard and ButterBurgers


posted by sheryl | 12:43 PM | comments (1)


 

Monday, May 22, 2006

Recipes: Chickpea Stew


Drained chickpeas

After our trip to Tunisia, I made a slightly disasterous attempt at a Tunisian-style couscous (don't worry-- it was still edible, just kind of clumpy). I had found the super fine-grained couscous at the open-air market here, but I think the cooking time was off or something, not to mention that one of the handles of my couscoussier fell off while lugging a heavy load of chickpeas to the sink. Since I had purchased a huge bag of dried chickpeas, the next day I temporarily gave up on couscous and decided to make one of my favorite stews.

This has similar North African flavors, but my personal inspiration was chicken apretada, a Filipino dish I grew up with. One aspect of that dish that I never totally liked was the chicken itself; it always seemed to dry out a bit, and it also made the stew a little greasier than I would have liked. But I love the flavors of red pepper and tomato together, and had found the perfect application when I replaced chicken with chickpeas (hey, they sound the same.) In Filipino dishes, chickpeas are more commonly used in pochero, which has eggplants and pork. But this is my unusual version of apretada-- although sometimes I will add some chicken tenders toward the end to give it that classic chicken-y flavor that I grew up with.

One added bonus of making a big batch of this is that the stew is even better the next day, once the flavors have come together and it has thickened a bit. I like to add a splash of fish sauce when I'm eating it (that's my pinay side coming out!)

Chickpea Stew (or "garbanzo apretada")

Ingredients
3 tbsp olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 medium sized red bell pepper, diced
2 15-oz cans chickpeas, drained (or 1-1/4 cup dried chickpeas cooked in advance)
1 lb yellow Finn potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 15-oz can diced tomatoes
3 cups chicken stock (or if you cooked your own dried chickpeas, use cooking liquid with some salt added to taste)
3 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Handful of fresh parsley, chopped

  1. In a Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and stir until onions are a bit soft, about 4-5 minutes. Add the minced red bell pepper and continue to cook until the bell pepper softens, another 4-5 minutes.
  2. Add the potatoes, followed by the white wine. Allow the wine to reduce to about half.
  3. Add the chickpeas, tomatoes and their juice, chicken stock and salt. Stir and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer, partially covered until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. You can continue cooking a bit until the liquid is reduced to desired consistency (if you like a thicker stew).
  4. Take off the heat and add freshly ground black pepper to taste and the chopped parsley.
  5. Serve with steaming white rice and maybe a nice salad or my favorite: sweet pickled sliced cucumbers.


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posted by sheryl | 10:40 AM | comments (1)


 

Thursday, May 11, 2006

Travel: Tunisia



We just returned from a week-long holiday in Tunisia, so of course I have to report on the food!

Tunisia, located in North Africa between Algeria and Libya, has an unusual culture stemming from its indigenous Berber roots, Arabic legacy and French colonialism (which ended in 1956). The food, as a result, is an interesting mix of all of these cultures: couscous and harissa, fantastic Turkish-style desserts and mint tea, and good French pastries.

The national dish is couscous. One of my first observations is that Tunisia doesn't have a well-established 'dining out' culture; it is known among Tunisians that the best food is had in a Tunisian home.

Thankfully, we had the excellent good fortune of being in Tunisia at the same time as my friend Naima, who lives in Seattle. She and her husband are Tunisian, and she was rounding out a three-week trip to visit her family when we were able to see her during our stay in Tunis, the capital of the country, and the city in which her family lives. So in addition to getting to go sightseeing with her and her kids (who had a great time with my kids), we also got to have a home-cooked meal prepared by her sister Bahia, who is an excellent cook. Our lunch at their family house was the best food we had during our trip. Bravo Bahia!


Bahia's excellent couscous with chicken and fava beans

This was the best couscous I've had. Naima explained that in Tunisia the main base flavor for couscous is tomato paste, so you always end up with a reddish couscous (unlike in Morocco, where other spices are often applied). This gives it a sweet flavor, and of course, heat can be added as well with the use of chiles. The couscous was so good that I ended up buying a couscoussier--a Tunisian couscous steamer for properly preparing it. (American recipes often call for couscous to simply be boiled in broth, but to obtain the lightest, melt-in-your-mouth texture, the couscous in places like Tunisia is always steamed--and sometimes even steamed twice.) Hopefully, because we have a huge Moroccan market here in Den Haag, I can also try to find the extremely fine-grained couscous that is used in Tunisia. According to Naima, many Tunisian cooks even make their own couscous, rolling the semolina with their hands. I'm hoping I don't have to resort to that!

The other Tunisian specialty, which was my absolute favorite is brik l'oeuf. I love anything with an egg in it (me being Asian and all), but this recipe takes the cake for fans of yolky, runny eggs. It is basically a fried pastry shell stuffed with tuna or seafood, herbs and vegetables, then an egg is broken into the mixture, the packet is quickly sealed and deep-fried. It takes lots of practice to keep the package sealed without it breaking open in the pan, and it takes quite a bit of skill to eat it--otherwise you end up with egg all over either your face or your clothes.


Brik l'oeuf: squeeze a bit of lemon, then pick it up and eat it, tilting it so you don't get egg yolk on your clothes

Naima also made a delicious Lebanese salad with herbs, that hopefully I can get her to post on Crispy Waffle. :)


Naima's salad with herbs

Here are some other pictures of the various things that we ate and saw in the markets. Hopefully some recipes are forthcoming, once I work them out, especially for the mint tea and for couscous.


Sandwich thon

Street food in Tunisia involves a lot of sandwiches in either flatbread, pita or even baguettes. There are even savory fillings for fried doughnuts (which I ended up not trying--I was too full after eating a huge sweet doughnut and I just couldn't do it). My favorite was the typical tuna sandwich in griddled pita. Tunisians take the use of tuna to a new level (and it also helps that their canned variety of tuna is quite different and very tasty--very much like quality Italian canned tuna varieties.) In sandwich form, the pita is filled with tuna, harissa, olives, cucumbers and onions. This I will definitely recreate. The best of these sandwiches was at Carthage. We were walking around and Naima's 2-year-old son befriended an elderly man and his friend who were having their lunch on a bench. He ran ahead of us and in a moment, the little guy was chewing something, so Naima went to investigate. (That the man was giving the little guy a snack is nothing surprising. Tunisians are unbelievably friendly with small children; my son was often picked up and hugged by strangers-- a bit alarming at first, but we got used to it pretty quickly.) Before you knew it, the man had given us half his sandwich to try. Naima said, "But this is your lunch!" and he simply said, "I'm sharing it because it's all from God anyway." The tuna sandwich he was eating had the most delicious olives and pickled cucumbers in it.



Tunisian doughnuts

The doughnuts at the street stands were also quite good. The best way to describe them is as a giant beignets covered in a sticky honey syrup. Delish. I don't know what they're called, so I did a lot of pointing and eating (as I usually do with street food!)


The little guy chowing down on a giant doughnut


Tunisian sweets. My son had to be dragged away from this stand kicking and screaming. They gave him so many samples that he thought it was all free!


Giant blocks of nougat at a sweets stand


A cow head advertising freshness at a Sousse butcher shop

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posted by sheryl | 8:45 AM | comments (15)


 

 

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