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Monday, May 18, 2009
Chickpea fritters

I still have to post our pictures from our 10-day trip to Egypt. A little bit of beach, a little bit of archaeology, a little bit of cultural craziness. As a result (and with our three cameras between me, Kyle and my daughter) I have something like 1000 pics to go through, arrgh.
In the meantime, here's a recipe for chickpea fritters. I'm a big fan of falafel (which presented at breakfast once when I asked for Egyptian breakfast!) but it's kind of a pain to make during the week because you have to soak the dried chickpeas, then grind them up in a food processor that I don't have, then deep-fry them. Fine when you have some time, but when you need to make dinner in an hour? No way. As a substitute, I use canned chickpeas during the week. I mash the chickpeas with a potato masher, then add the rest of ingredients and a little bit of flour. And if you have chickpea flour? Even better. I then pan-fry them in olive oil. They're more like little veggie burgers than falafel, but they are still really good. Serve these with a cucumber or red cabbage pickle and red onions for bite. Tahini sauce is great, but I've also used tzatziki here, and will post the recipe for that soon as well. I've used store-bought pita, but it's much, much better if you toast it in the oven or also fry it in a little bit of oil. Chickpea fritters Makes about 12-14 2-inch fritters, about 2 for each sandwich Ingredients 2 15-ounce (500 g) cans chickpeas 4 garlic cloves, minced A large handful of parsley, minced 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander 1 large egg approx 1/4 cup flour or chickpea flour 1-1/2 teaspoons salt A generous sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper 6-8 pitas, warmed in the oven Tahini or tzatziki Sliced red onions Salad fixings - Drain and rinse the chickpeas in a colander. Pour them into a large bowl. Mash with a potato masher. You may have to put a towel underneath the bowl to keep it from sliding around. If you don't get all the beans mashed, don't worry; it's okay if there are a few whole ones.
- Add the garlic, parsley, cumin, coriander, salt and pepper. Mix it up really well with your hands. Add the egg and continue mixing. Add the flour and continue mashing the mixture around with your hands until all is well-combined.
- Form into 2-inch patties (smaller if you like).
- Heat an even layer of olive oil over medium heat in a large pan. When a tiny bit of the chickpea mixture starts bubbling and frying, the oil is ready.
- Fry the chickpeas until they are golden brown, about 3-4 minutes on each side. Drain on a wire rack.
- Serve in the warmed pitas with sauce and salad. I like to mash up the chickpeas just a little bit.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 8:36 PM |
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Friday, April 17, 2009
Sesame noodles with smoked eel

I love cold noodle and pasta salads. These sesame noodles are my favorite lunchbox lunch: the combination of sesame, green onion, garlic and ginger are total harmony.
Last week, I didn't have any leftover grilled chicken, or uncooked chicken that I could poach and shred into the noodle salad like I usually do. Instead, I used some smoked eel that I had in the fridge. It's available everywhere here - called gerookte paling filet - and I really like the texture and smokey taste. Luckily, the result was amazing. The saltiness and strong flavor really complimented the other strong flavors. Cold noodle zen achieved.
I like to eat this with sliced cucumber (or cucumber pickle) and shredded carrots, so you get the whole crunchy/soft contrast.
Sesame noodles with smoked eel serves 4-6 The noodle recipe is adapted from Cooks Illustrated. Here, I used Chinese fat egg noodles that you can find in Asian groceries. If you don't have those, use spaghetti. It works great, and I won't tell anyone. Note: Toast the sesame seeds, stirring constantly in a dry skillet over medium heat for 10 minutes or so, until fragrant
Ingredients 1 pound (500 g) dried noodles 1 tablespoon table salt 2 tablespoons Chinese sesame oil
For the sauce: 3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds 1/4 cup tahini (use peanut butter if you don't have tahini -- it tastes great too) 1 thumb-sized knob fresh ginger, minced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1/4 cup soy sauce (regular soy sauce, not thick 'superior') 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons lightly packed brown sugar hot water
Additions: 75 to 100 g smoked eel, shredded (this is maybe 1-2 pieces of eel) 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds 2 scallions, sliced thin 1 grated carrot 1 sliced cucumber - Prepare the noodles according to package instructions (i.e. add with the salt to boiling water for the package-defined amount of time). Drain and rinse with cold water. Toss immediately with the sesame oil in a large bowl and set aside.
- Combine all sauce ingredients in a blender or food processor, add a tablespoon of hot water, and process until smooth. (Add a bit more water and process until it is the texture of heavy cream).
- Toss the sauce with the noodles and scallions. Top with the sesame seeds, carrot and cucumber. If you like it spicy, garnish with some chile sauce.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 9:33 AM |
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Thursday, April 16, 2009
What we ate on Sunday
From Easter:
Rack of lamb with baby new potatoes. Yes this is chi-chi food (to go with the little guy who is dressed up back there), but rack of lamb is maybe the most ridiculously easy thing on earth to make. Literally, it is done in less than half an hour from start to finish, and looks and tastes amazing. I served it with new potatoes, equally ridiculously easy. I love Easter dinner!
Links:
Labels: the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 7:58 PM |
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Thursday, April 09, 2009
Fire it up: Grilled chicken with pineapple marinade
Spring is slowly arriving, so one of the first things I did was fire up the grill. Don't get me wrong, if I want barbeque enough, I will shiver out there in the middle of the winter, with snow on the ground. But it's much, much nicer when you don't need to wear a coat.
My favorite grilled food is still pork skewers, but chicken thighs are nice because I basically just use the same marinade. The marinade is based on a mixture of soy, ketchup and pineapple juice (in my other recipe, I talk about why I replaced the 7up with pineapple juice). I know not everyone is keen on ketchup, but I'm with Jamie Oliver here: the ketchup gives you that nice stick-to-your-ribs stickiness that caramelizes on the grill. (Of course, he was referring to the pig's ribs, or what used to be the pig's ribs.) One substitution I made to my previous recipe is instead of sugar, I used honey. This gave the marinade an extra stickiness.
Make sure to use chicken thighs, or at least dark meat. I never grill chicken breasts -- they dry out way too fast. The chicken thighs stay really juicy and taste the best when grilled. Serve with steamed rice, spicy duck sauce and cucumber pickle and it'll feel like yer kickin it in the islands.
Grilled chicken thighs Ingredients 2 pounds (1 kg) boneless skinless chicken thighs 1/2 head garlic, minced 1/4 cup ketchup 1/4 cup dark soy sauce (sometimes called 'dark superior') 1/4 cup pineapple juice 3 tablespoons honey 2 teaspoons palm vinegar (white wine vinegar or rice wine vinegar works here) 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper - Whisk together the ketchup, soy, pineapple juice, honey vinegar, sesame oil, salt and pepper. Set aside 1/4 cup for brushing on the chicken while you're grilling. To the remaining mixture, add the minced garlic.
- About 5 hours before grilling, place the chicken in a large bowl or ziploc bag. Add the marinade and let sit in the refrigerator until you are ready to grill.
- Prepare the grill. Remove the chicken from the marinade (discard the marinade) and grill for 6-7 minutes each side, brushing with the reserved sauce before turning.
Links

Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 8:25 PM |
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Thursday, April 02, 2009
Weekday paella with sausage

One of my favorite recipes is Mark Bittman's minimalist recipe for Paella with Tomatoes. The reason I love it so much is because it takes paella out of the realm of specialty dish with specialty cookware (paella pan) and expensive seafood ingredients, into a simple dish with simple ingredients. In a way this brings us back to the humble beginnings of paella, a laborers dish from Valencia, cooked with easily available ingredients.
This is great for a weekday because prep and cooking from beginning to end takes less than an hour. A couple things I've found that for me, make the recipe even better: it's not traditional, but I like to first fry fresh sausage (such as Italian sausage) in the pan first. You then will get a nice little fond to fry the onions with, giving the dish even more flavor. Another thing I like to do is use shrimp stock if I have it -- usually if I prepare a dish where I shell shrimp, I simmer the shells in water and salt, and get a nice, quick little stock. Save it in the freezer for a dish like this (or as a substitution for chicken stock in other recipes). Do use saffron. I don't care that other recipes (including Bittman's) consider the saffron optional. I consider it essential to give it that specifically 'paella' taste. Instead of adding it directly, I steep it in the warm cooking liquid -- this takes less saffron to give it a still potent taste. I know it's expensive, but a little goes a long way.
Most importantly, use the right rice: in order to cook correctly with these proportions of water to rice, it must be a short grain. Arborio or risotto rice is a nice substitution if you don't have access to paella rice.
Weekday paella adapted from The New York Times serves 4
Ingredients 2 cups paella rice (bomba, valencia or as a substitute, arborio rice) 3-1/2 cups seafood stock (chicken stock or water, if you don't have seafood stock) 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil sea salt and pepper 1 pound ripe tomatoes 1 pound fresh sausage 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 medium onion, minced large pinch saffron threads 1 teaspoon pimenton handful fresh parsley, minced - Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (220 C). Warm stock or water in a saucepan. Put tomatoes in a medium bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle them with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Toss to coat.
- Place the stock or water in a small saucepan and heat over medium low (the stock just needs to be warm when you add it to rice later on.) When the stock has some steam coming off of it, add the saffron and stir to combine.
- Heat a large pan over medium high. Add 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the sausage and turn to brown. Add 2 tablespoons of water and cover the pan. Lower heat to medium low and continue frying until the sausage is cooked through, about 8-10 minutes. Uncover and remove the sausage. Slice the sausage evenly.
- Add the remaining olive oil to the hot pan. Over medium heat, add the onion and garlic and cook until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the paprika and cook for another minute. Add the rice and stir until shiny. Add the liquid and stir until combined.
- Put the tomatoes and sausage on top and drizzle the tomato liquid over the whole thing. Roast, uncovered and undisturbed, for 15 minutes. Turn off oven and let the pan sit in the oven for another 10 minutes.
- Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle with parsley.

Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 9:27 PM |
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Thursday, March 26, 2009
Garlic shrimp in coconut milk

When I was a kid, one of my favorite dishes was my mom's coconut shrimp: it was super garlicky, a little bit spicy and creamy. One of the things I loved most about it is that she would cook the shrimp whole: heads, tails and shells, so you would have to eat the shrimp and rice with your hands. And the best thing? Sucking the delicious juice out of the shrimp heads. (Now THAT is a straight up Filipinas thing to do!)
Now that I'm making this on my own, I'm finding that not everyone wants the down-and-dirty, smelling-like-a-fish-market hands for three days. The problem is that without all those shells and heads, the broth won't taste as good. So I came up with an alternative way of cooking it: shell the shrimp, then put it in the coconut milk to simmer before you stir-fry everything. This gives you that prawn-y taste and still be able to eat with utensils - if that's what floats your boat.
Do make sure to buy the shrimp with the heads on: those heads contain loads of flavor.
Six cloves of garlic, ready to go in
Garlic shrimp in coconut milk serves 4 This recipe calls for a lot of garlic. If you need to do things like, I don't know, talk to people, afterwards, you can always cut down on the garlic. (Although in my opinion, it won't taste as good.)
Ingredients 1-1/2 pounds (700 g) shrimp with the heads on (the shrimp should be 16-20 count/lb) 15 ounces (500 g) coconut milk 2 dried red chile peppers 6 to 7 cloves of garlic, minced 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons fish sauce minced parsley or coriander (for garnish) - Skim about 2 tablespoons of the cream off of the top of the coconut milk and set aside (this will be used for stir-frying later)
- Remove the shells and heads from the shrimp and set in a medium saucepan. Pour the remaining coconut milk over it and add the salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and continue simmering for 15 minutes. Check it -- the coconut milk should now be slightly pink.
- Drain the coconut milk through a strainer and set aside.
- Heat a wok to medium high. Add the coconut cream, stirring until the oil separates and the coconut bits start browning (add a little vegetable oil if there is not enough oil at this point).
- Add the shrimp and chile peppers and fry for 2 minutes, until the shrimp is nice and pink. Add the garlic and stirfry for another minute. Now add the coconut milk and fish sauce and simmer for 2-3 minutes.
- Remove the shrimp to the serving dish. Continue simmering the coconut milk for a few more minutes, until it has thickened slightly (you can decide if you like it thicker or thinner at this point -- if you like it thicker, just continue to simmer for a bit longer). Taste to see if it needs more salt. Pour the coconut milk over the shrimp.
- Garnish with the parsley or coriander and serve with steamed rice.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 9:39 AM |
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Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Eating ramen in Duesseldorf
 Miso ramen with pork at Takumi
Although Duesseldorf is between 2 and 3 hours away from us (depending on 1. traffic, and 2. how fast you like to drive on the autobahn), it is worth the trip just for the Japanese ramen. It's not a huge city, but it has the largest concentration of Japanese expats in Europe.
A few years ago, our friend Steve was living in Duesseldorf and took us to a Japanese noodle shop. It was the first place I ever had tonkotsu ramen and I was hooked. Tonkotsu is the pork broth made with pork bones -- it becomes milky because it is boiled for a long period of time, and the marrow disperses through the soup, making the broth cloudy. The broth looks creamy, and tastes incredibly rich.
Unfortunately, this sort of authentic ramen soup is difficult to find in the Netherlands, so Duesseldorf is the place to get it. I couldn't remember the name of the ramen shop we had gone to in the past, but we found Takumi on Immermanstrasse (the street that is all things Japanese in Duesseldorf.) Takumi is tiny but you can't miss it. Oh yes, the line of people freezing outside is your tipoff. (By the way, the day we were there, this was not just at lunchtime. We were nearby around 3 in the afternoon -- still a long line.)
At first I was crazy disappointed because I tried to order tonkotsu and the server was like, "We don't have that." I think I may have started having palpitations, but no matter, I ordered a miso ramen with marinated egg, and a few more bowls: one of spicy soup and one of shoyu soup. They also made up for the lack of tonkotsu with housemade gyoza and karaage chicken. (Fried chicken fans, take note: karaage chicken will rock your world.)
The ramen soup was all delish (I think, not as good as tonkotsu, but it still hit the spot), and the kids couldn't get enough of the gyoza and karaage, and were almost fighting over the marinated egg. All in all, well worth the detour.
 I'd say there were about 8 tables total at Takumi. Here's the wait at 2:30 in the afternoon. A good sign that it is one of the best noodle shops is that 1) the line was almost all Japanese expats at any given time, and 2) there was always somebody in line with a suitcase. That means of course that it's the crave food: the first place one goes when returning to Duesseldorf, or the last place before leaving for somewhere else.
 Housemade gyoza
 Karaage chicken
 Cute desserts from Relax Cafe (right next to Takumi): chocolate in the back, and a pistachio mousse in the front. They weren't my favorite, but I thought they were cute.
 Our trip turned out to be seriously Japanophile -- I had to go to Muji (Duesseldorf is the closest one to us). If you haven't yet, definitely check it out for beautifully designed and affordable housewares. I bought a little slicer and a cute little cast iron mortar and pestle.
Address: Takumi Immermannstrasse 28 40210 Duesseldorf Germany +49 211 1793308
Links RecipeGullet: Tonkotsu ramen soup JustHungry: Karaage chicken MujiLabels: the savory and salty, travel
posted by sheryl | 8:24 AM |
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Monday, February 23, 2009
Weekday spaghetti and meatballs - no jars!

Spaghetti is such a great comfort food, and for those of us with kids, who hasn't made it at home? We have spaghetti on a regular basis, usually with me making ragu on the weekend -- the time it takes to simmer only makes it taste better. After I watched Hancock with the Little Guy, he became obsessed with eating spaghetti with meatballs ('Spaghetti Madness'!) I thought, why not?
I made this based on a combination of a few recipes and it came out delish. At the moment, everyone in the house prefers it to our usual ragu, which is good because this takes less than an hour to make, so you can actually make it on a weekday.
Basically, I fry the meatballs and then use the fond to start the sauce by deglazing the pan with some wine. It makes it super flavorful, even with few ingredients. A few tips: Do use the beef/pork mix. It makes the meatballs taste better and juicier. When you fry the meatballs, you can brown them on the outside, but don't worry if they don't cook all the way through -- they will finish cooking in the sauce. Also, they are a bit delicate, so be careful when turning them.
Spaghetti with meatballs serves 4
For meatballs: 1/2 cup whole milk
2 slices white bread, crusts cut off
1/2 pound ground beef 1/2 pound ground pork 1 egg 1 shallot, minced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper a handful of fresh parsley, minced very fine 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
For sauce: 1/2 cup white wine 1 shallot, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 28-ounce can of whole tomatoes (2 - 500g cans), chopped, also reserve the juice 1-1/2 teaspoons salt another handful of fresh parsley, minced fine
1 pound of spaghetti
- Tear the bread into small pieces and add the milk. Allow the mixture to soak for 5 minutes.
- Add the rest of the meatball ingredients. Mix lightly with your hands. Form into 2-inch meatballs.
- Heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil over medium-high heat in a Dutch oven. Add the meatballs and brown for 3.4 minutes, Turn over and brown on the other side. Remove to a plate and set aside.
- Pour all but 3 tablespoons of oil out of the pan. Over medium heat, add the shallots. Allow to soften for 3 minutes or so. Add the wine and scrape up all the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Allow the wine to reduce by half. Add the tomatoes and sauce, garlic, salt and pepper. Stir to combine.
- Add the meatballs to the sauce and cover. Lower the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. In the meantime, start boiling the water for the spaghetti.
- Uncover the saucepan. Simmer uncovered for another 10 minutes, until the sauce has thickened slightly.
- Make the spaghetti according to the directions.
- Add the parsley to the sauce and stir. Serve with the spaghetti and pass the Parmigiano!
Links: Crispy Waffle: Weekend raguLabels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 9:29 PM |
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Monday, January 19, 2009
Seattle trip
 Perfect coffee at Stumptown
We just got back from a whirlwind trip to Seattle a couple weeks ago and I'm finally getting around to posting some pics!
We hit our usual places (sushi, burgers, etc.) and my sis held her wedding reception at Palisades which was totally delish (this is such a great place for a reception!) A couple of my favorite new finds:
- Samurai Noodle: This place on the side of Uwajimaya totally blew my mind. I loves some noodle soup, but the pork broth seriously Knocked. Me. Out. It was that good -- creamy, salty, tasty tonkotsu broth (not to be confused with tonkatsu, which is pork cutlet). No wonder the place is jammed at all hours of the day. Thanks to my sis for the awesome tip!
- Trophy Cupcakes: Another recommendation from my sis. I am normally not super impressed with cupcake joints because usually their goods seem too sweet. (See this post for my typical opinion). Even though they were sweet, I really liked the cupcakes at Trophy. The price almost made me fall over, so at first I bought two cupcakes (at $2.99 a pop, they'd better be good!), but we gobbled them down so fast that we had to go back for more. The flavor not to miss? S'mores. This one took the cake, so to speak. And I don't even like real s'mores.
- Stumptown Coffee: This one was a tip from my friend Joseph, the best home barista I know. Here you can get the perfect latte. My brother called them "those feather coffees" because of the leaf pattern on top -- which, as I've mentioned before, is the sign that the coffee and milk were worked perfectly. Sigh, I don't find that too often here in NL, so Seattlelites, don't take your great baristas for granted!
 Delicioso tonkotsu ramen at Samurai Noodle
 Ordering fish and chips at Jack's at Pike Place Market
 A pretty little chai cardamom cupcake at Trophy (good, but the s'mores cupcakes are still my fave.)
Samurai Noodle 606 5th Ave S Seattle, WA 98104 (206) 624-9321
Trophy Cupcakes Wallingford Center 1815 N. 45th Street Seattle, WA 98103 (206) 632-7020
Stumptown Coffee 1115 12th Avenue Seattle, WA 98122 (206) 323-1544
Labels: the savory and salty, the sweet, travel
posted by sheryl | 8:25 AM |
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Saturday, January 17, 2009
Tofu with peanut sauce

A while back we were at a dinner where Kyle was discussing 'going green' with a woman at our table. She was explaining all the measures her family takes to reduce their carbon footprint: driving less, reusing and recycling, not flying as much, etc. Kyle said, "The thing that's hardest for us is eating less meat." She wasn't sure what he meant (as she continued eating the delicious steak we were served) so he mentioned about how in this NY Times article, Mark Bittman explains how global meat production actually produces more carbon than transportation. (Nothing like factoids from the NY Times to ruin a juicy steak!) She was really disheartened to hear this, just as I was when I read about it. Somehow, with all the talk about reducing carbon footprints, this aspect just doesn't get mentioned so much -- I think because it is a difficult idea to face.
I too find not eating meat to be a difficult idea. However, we've been working for a while on trying to reduce our consumption of meat for health and financial reasons anyway. I remember a few years back when Kyle was doing his internship, we were trying to save cash, so we cooked a lot and got our meat fix by flavoring the veggies and beans with bacon. (A little bit of bacon goes a long way, believe me.) For the New Year, I am trying to follow Mark Bittman's tenet about treating meat like a side dish: flavor the other stuff with meat, just like we did back then with the bacon (After all, bacon is meat candy, as my friend Ryan says, and even Rick Bayless wore one of those shirts on his show!)
The following is one of my fave dishes -- I've been making this for years, and when I bust out the block of tofu, the kids actually get excited for dinner (They don't understand tofu's bad rep because this and hotpot are the only ways they eat it). The key is to make sure and get the extra firm tofu (sometimes called 'Chinese-style'). Don't even think about making this with softer tofu -- it'll just absorb all the oil and taste gross.
One interesting takeaway from all the handwringing is that reducing one's meat consumption by just 20 percent is like switching from a regular sedan (such as a Camry) to a fuel efficient Prius. If I take this into account on a weekly basis, I can eat that barbeque pork later -- just not every day.
Tofu with peanut sauce serves 4
Ingredients 1 pound (500g) of extra-firm tofu 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 scallion, minced, white part separated from the green part 1/4 cup sesame or peanut oil For the peanut sauce: 1/2 cup boilng water 3 tablespoons natural peanut butter 2 teaspoons fish sauce 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar
- For the sauce: combine the peanut butter, fish sauce, soy sauce, rice vinegar and sugar. Pour the hot water over it, whisking with a fork. It'll take a little time for it to come together, but continue whisking until smooth. Taste for salt. Set aside.
- Pour the liquid off the tofu and press slightly to remove as much of the liquid as possible. Cut into 3/4-inch thick slabs. Blot with a paper towel to dry the tofu.
- Heat the oil over high in a large nonstick wok or skillet (you will need to be careful -- the tofu will splatter, so if you have a screen you can set over the skillet, have it ready).
- Slide the tofu pieces into the oil and let it fry, undisturbed for 3-5 minutes, or until golden. Flip over and brown on the other side. Set on a paper towel.
- Pour off all but a couple tablespoons of the oil from the skillet. Add the whites of the scallions and garlic and swirl around. Add the tofu back in and toss. Pour in the peanut sauce and toss the tofu to coat in the sauce. The sauce will thicken really fast, so do this quickly.
- Pour the mixture into a serving dish and serve with white rice.
Links NYTimes: Rethinking the Meat-Guzzler NYTimes: Putting meat back in its place NYTimes: As more eat meat, a bid to cut emissionsLabels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 12:48 PM |
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Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Divide and conquer: brussels sprouts

I've been really lazy about posting recipes for Thanksgiving, but here's a side dish that is super-easy and won't have you falling over after preparing another, oh, dozen or so other dishes.
Brussels sprouts is one of those vegetables, like lima beans, that has a classic much-hated-vegetable reputation. I know exactly why, in one word: boiling. I have no idea why anyone would ever boil brussels sprouts, but one taste of boiled brussels sprouts will turn you off of this veggie forever.
Thankfully, I never had brussels sprouts growing up, so it wasn't ruined for me forever. These are totally a popular seasonal vegetable here in NL -- it reminds me of fall when I start seeing them in the grocery. I split them and stirfry them with garlic. The insides get brown and crispy, and they taste delish with liberal amounts of fresh black pepper.
Stir-fried brussel sprouts with garlic serves 4 as a side dish
Ingredients 1 pound (500g) small brussels sprouts 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon butter 3 cloves garlic, minced coarse salt and black pepper to taste
- Trim the ends off the sprouts and split each one in half.
- Heat a wok over high heat. When the pan is hot, add the oil and butter, swirl it around and add the sprouts. Let the sprouts sit for 30 seconds or so, then stir them around (the ones that were on the bottom should be a bit brown). Cover, and lower heat to medium low.
- After 5-7 minutes, uncover and try to pierce a sprout with a fork. If it's still too firm for the fork to go through, cover the sprouts again and continue cooking for another 3-4 minutes. You may need even more time if the sprouts are large ones. Just keep checking in the same way every few minutes.
- Once the sprouts are fairly soft, raise the heat to high again and add another tablespoon of oil. Add the garlic and salt and pepper and stir around until the sprouts brown a little bit more. Taste for salt. Serve immediately.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 8:46 PM |
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Friday, October 31, 2008
Weekend ragú with homemade pasta

Here's a recipe for the weekend where you have time to actually cook, but don't want to spend the whole time in front of the stove. (For me, those are few and far between!) You can, in fact do this on a weekday if you don't allow the sauce to simmer so long, and if you use dried pasta (or ready-made fresh pasta) instead of making the pasta yourself, but the sauce doesn't seem to achieve that magical transformation from a long simmer. Spaghetti and sauce is one of those things that can be either really common or really special, and changing things up just a little -- making your own sauce rather than bottled, using fresh pasta rather than dried -- elevates it to the "really special" level.
Other than the time this sauce takes, it's otherwise really simple. It's not a true bolognese, by any means (there is way too much tomato for that). Rather, it takes some cues from bolognese, such as how I like adding a liver element (chicken livers are often used in bolognese; I shortcut it here by putting in just a little pate), and milk, and then I just add the other ingredients that appeal to me personally. (Spaghetti sauce is one of those things I've found is really personal when it comes to preference -- some like it sweeter, some like fewer tomatoes -- it's really up to you.) You can skip the pate if you don't like liver. The kids and I love it, but Kyle hates anything liver-y, so I don't always put it in. (Hey, I grew up eating liver pate sandwiches at lunch!) You can also adjust the meat if you prefer, say, an all-beef sauce rather than beef and pork. Definitely a recipe that is open to interpretation.
For the noodles I have a KitchenAid pasta roller. This makes it super, super easy to roll uniform fresh pasta -- and is essential if you want to make super-thin, almost transparent fresh lasagna sheets that you don't have to boil. (Lasagna, by the way, is a great use for the leftover sauce.) I haven't tried a manual pasta roller, but that would work fine too. The recipe for the pasta is just the one I got off of the KitchenAid instructions. It's worked better for me than other ingredient ratios.
This sauce either feeds a crowd, or better yet, allows you to save half of it by freezing it. Then, when you want weekend ragú during the week, just thaw it out and use dried pasta. Or, what I like to do is sometimes use the leftover sauce for a big lasagna. Lots of possibilities.
Weekend ragú makes enough to serve 8
Ingredients 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 ounces (100g) diced bacon or pancetta 2 large white onions, diced 6 cloves of garlic, minced 1 medium carrot, shredded 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 pound (500g) ground beef 1 pound (500g) ground pork (you can also use 2 pounds "meatloaf mix", which includes beef, pork and veal in substitution for the beef and pork) 1 tablespoon liver pate (optional) 1-1/2 cups (400ml) whole milk 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup (250ml) red wine 1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes (2 500g cans) 1 15-ounce can tomato sauce (500ml) 1/2 teaspoon pepper 3 teaspoons salt handful of chopped parsley
- Preheat oven to 250 degrees F (120 C). Heat a large Dutch oven on the stovetop over medium heat. Add the olive oil and the bacon. Fry until the bacon has browned a bit and some of it's fat has melted.
- Add the onions, garlic and carrots. Fry until soft, about 5 minutes.
- Add the ground meat and pate (if using). Break up the meat with a wooden spoon and fry until the meat is mostly brown.
- Add the milk and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 15-20 minutes, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the fat separates from the milk and the meat is sizzling.
- Tilt the dutch oven, and using a large spoon, spoon out as much of the fatty liquid as you can without spooning out the meat. (It's okay if it seems like a lot is remaining; this is just to keep the sauce from being really greasy).
- Return the pot to medium heat. Add the tomato paste and stir to mix. Add the red wine and allow it to simmer in the meat until it has mostly reduced.
- Add the tomatoes (with their juice), breaking it up with your hand as you add it to the sauce. Add the tomato sauce, salt and pepper and stir to combine. Bring the whole thing to a low simmer.\
- Cover the pot and place in the oven. Simmer in the oven for about 3 hours. Take it out to stir it once every hour or so, making sure the meat is not sticking to the bottom of the pan.
- After 3 hours, remove from the oven. Skim fat off the top of the sauce. Stir in the parsley and serve with noodles, passing shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Fresh spaghetti (or fettuccini or linguini, depending on your pasta cutter) makes about 1 pound
Ingredients 4 large eggs 3-1/2 cups sifted all-purpose flour (400g) 1 tablespoon water - Place the ingredients in your stand mixer. Combine the ingredients on the lowest setting.
- Put the dough hook on and beat at medium-low for two minutes. You may need to take it out and knead it by hand for a few minutes. It shouldn't feel crumbly -- rather it should feel leathery and smooth, but not sticky. If it is crumbly, add a bit more water. If it is sticky, add a bit more flour.
- Let the dough rest, covered with a dry towel, for 15 minutes.
- Run through your pasta roller as directed. (Make sure to dust the noodles with flour, otherwise they will stick together.)


Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 3:13 PM |
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Sunday, September 28, 2008
Long weekend in Italy
Villa Olmo, Lake Como
I was going through our photos recently and realized that I had never posted pics from a long weekend in Italy that the little chica and I took to visit her friend in Bergamo. Although it was a very short trip, it was good eating, as usual! We stayed in Bergamo with our friends the Myliuses, and took a couple of day trips: one to Lake Como and another to Verona, both of which are really charming places to visit (even though the day we were at Lake Como, there was a freakish rain/windstorm that seemed to catch everyone off guard!)
 Donatella made us a delicious appletart from a family recipe, among other yummy things to eat.  Of course we picked up sweets at this bakery in Citta Alta, Bergamo.  At one of the bakeries in Bergamo, Donatella pointed out a specialty: a giant croissant filled with Nutella. Bon appetito!  Donatella took us to an amazing restaurant the night before we left -- La Colombina, which specializes in la cucina bergamasca, total dishes from Bergamo. Here are casoncelli, the local filled ravioli served with butter, bacon and sage, and risotto with a red wine reduction. Very very rich but really delish. (and also affordable, with the most expensive dish being only 12 euro!)  In season peaches at the neighborhood market near the Mylius home.  The town center of Verona is really compact and walkable. Here is a statue of Berto Barbarani, a famous poet from Verona.  And of course no trip is complete without gelato! Here is the little chica's favorite flavor: yogurt. Labels: the savory and salty, the sweet, travel
posted by sheryl | 3:46 PM |
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Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Everyday salad

I will admit that I have never been big on salad. We didn't eat a lot of salad growing up because a lot of our favorite vegetable dishes were cooked. (Pinakbet, a type of vegetable stirfry is one of my all-time faves).
The reason we eat salad, like, three or four times a week now is because I've finally dialed in the easiest salad ever.
How? I finally started buying bag salad and spinning it in my trusty Oxo salad spinner. I used to buy each of the types of greens, then wash all the dirt off of them, tear the leaves into bits, rinse them again, then spin them in the salad spinner. I liked the salad in the end, but the process was a real turnoff, so odds are I would look at the lettuce in the fridge and grab the stir-fry-easy snow peas instead.
Also, I make my own dressing.
I hate bottled dressing. It always tastes kind of chemical to me, and it is always too sour, too sweet, or too creamy. I started making my own, which started out as ambitious as the lettuce I talked about above. This also had me reaching for the snow peas instead. Finally, I figured out how to reduce the ingredients to only the bare essentials. My basic rule of thumb is 4 parts oil, 2 parts vinegar, 1 part honey or other sweetness. Then, on top of that, add whatever floats your boat. I only make enough dressing to coat the greens a bit so they aren't drowning. Now salad is thrown together literally two minutes before dinner.
I personally like salad to have elements of bitter, sweet and crunch. For bitter, my favorite is arugula (otherwise known as rucola, or rocket). I basically don't make salad at home without arugula now (even though generally I find it an overused nouveau ingredient in other things). For sweet I put a bit of honey in the dressing. And for crunch I really like salted pecans.
Find a variation you like of these ingredients, and you'll probably find yourself eating salad almost every day too.
Everyday salad Serves 4
Ingredients 150-200 grams baby salad greens (I like a combination of arugula, baby chard and curly leaf lettuce -- this is what's in my fave salad mix) 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 clove garlic, minced ½ tablespoon honey a couple pinches of salt a few grinds of black pepper handful of chopped salted pecans
- Rinse the greens and spin them in a salad spinner. Add the pecans. Set in a bowl and place the bowl in the fridge.
- Place the garlic in a small bowl. Add the balsamic vinegar, then the olive oil. Pour the honey into the same measuring spoon that you used for the olive oil. (This will keep the honey from sticking to the spoon – a brilliant tip I learned from Alton Brown!) Add the salt and pepper. Whisk together the ingredients. (Alternatively, you can place all the ingredients in a small jar, close the lid and shake it like mad. All you really need is to make sure the vinegar and oil come together.)
- Pour the dressing over the greens and mix. Serve immediately.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 6:57 PM |
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Thursday, July 17, 2008
Red lentil dal

I'm sure nearly everyone has those evenings where you get home and there is a five minute instance, looking around in the kitchen, where you need to decide whether you will a) try to cook something, or b) take the easy route and get takeout.
This happens to me at least once or twice a week. Thankfully, I'm not that thrilled with the takeout scene near where we live, so I tend to make "what's in the house" dinners. This is the unplanned what's-in-the-fridge-and-pantry-right-now-that-I-can-use ingredient list. I have a few dishes that I can go back to, but one of the nicest -- and easiest -- is dal.
Dal is what you call the dried, split red lentils. It is great because I always have it on hand, as well as the other ingredients on the list. I make a really simple version of it (taken from one of my favorite cookbooks by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid), flavored with cinnamon, cumin, mustard seed and curry leaves. The dal turns mushy as it cooks, so it's almost like a thick gravy that you can eat with rice -- steamed rice, which cooks in the rice cooker while you are making the dal (for you lucky ones that have a rice cooker!). All in all this dish takes about 30 minutes (take that Rachael Ray!) and involves ingredients you can always have on hand. What's better than that?
 Curry leaves and mustard seeds
What's-in-the-house dal adapted from Seductions of Rice serves 4 with rice
Ingredients 1 cup dal (red split lentils) 4 cups water 1/2 stick cinnamon 2 dried bay leaves 2 teaspoons salt 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 medium white onion, chopped 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon crushed curry leaves 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro (coriander), chopped (optional)
- Place the dal in a dish and pick out any stones or sediment. Rinse under cold water in a colander. Combine the dal and the water in a medium saucepan. Add the cinnamon and bay leaves.
- Over medium high heat, bring the mixture to a simmer (make sure not to let it boil over-- this tends to boil over really easily.). Scrape the scum off the surface of the water and discard. Lower the heat and partially cover, low simmer, for 25 minutes. The dal should turn yellowish and look a bit watery/mushy. When it is done, remove and discard the cinnamon and bay leaves, and add the salt.
- While the dal is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or ghee over medium heat in a small saucepan (that has a cover). Add the mustard seeds, give it a stir to coat it in the oil and cover. Wait until you hear popping (this is why it is important to cover it). When the popping has mostly subsided, uncover and immediately add the cumin seeds and curry leaves. Stir to combine, then add the onion and garlic. Stir until the onions are soft and even a little bit brown on the edges.
- Add the onion spice mixture to the dal when it is done. Cook over medium heat to combine the flavors for 5 minutes. Sprinkle the cilantro over it and serve immediately with rice.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 9:40 PM |
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Midwest summer
Here are some more from our trip to Milwaukee and Chicago...
 Sparkly. We attended my friend Sandra's wedding in Chicago. Here's her cake, beautifully appropriate for the Fourth of July (and we even got to watch the fireworks from the boat on Lake Michigan where she had the reception!)
 Tasty. My brother's girlfriend Marnie cooked dinner for us. She is an amazing cook! Here are the brussel sprouts with Asiago (from one of her fave recipes on the excellent food blog, 101 Cookbooks.)
 Creamy. More from Marnie: creamy bacony stuffed mushrooms.
 Refreshing. My friend Jen and her little boy made ice pops for the kids and me. They were made out of a nice, not-to-sweet peach fruit juice. Perfect for a hot afternoon!
 Crispy. The great thing about being home for Fourth of July weekend is getting to have lots and lots of barbeque! Here are some of the excellent marinated bbq pork by my friend Mark's wife, Jessica and my friend Mayette. Man, that crispy fatty part is the best.
 Wisconsinite/Filipino. If you grow up in Wisconsin, you grow up on bratwurst. But being Filipino, at our house it was never served grilled on a bun. Instead we grilled them and ate it with rice and tomatoes, or pancit. Believe me, an excellent combination.
 Trashy. On the way back from Chicago I was jonesing for some Castle, the tiny steamed burgers that are ultimately, to be honest! pretty mediocre. (See my post on Kopps to read about great burgers in Wisconsin.) Of course, (as I realized all through college) you only have to have them at 1 o'clock in the morning after a night out (a la Harold and Kumar) to find out how truly outstanding they really are!
 Beefy. My mom received a bunch of steaks from my aunt, who lives in Ohio. She and my uncle donate money to their local 4H beef breeding program. Basically, the group raises a steer for beef, the meat then being divided among those supporting the program. (I believe this is how it works-- correct me if I'm wrong!) I find this program interesting for a few reasons: it seems to put children in touch with animals and how they are raised for meat -- super topical these days, especially as a backlash against industrial farming. Secondly, supporters of the program essentially get a local product, great for those who are interested in 'eating local'. When I had some of this, even before I knew, I was like, "These steaks are awesome-- where did you get them?" It doesn't hurt either that my dad is awesome at the grill.Labels: the savory and salty, the sweet, travel
posted by sheryl | 9:21 PM |
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Thursday, June 26, 2008
Barbeque pork skewers

If you go to any summertime event at which a large number of Filipino-Americans are gathered, I guarantee that you will see some version of barbeque pork skewers. Often at food stands it is listed as "pork on a stick", serving as an example of how Filipinos keep it real when it comes to food descriptions (no fancy menu language here!) Here I will just call them pork skewers as pork-on-a-stick sounds like some kind of horrible jerky or something you would feed to your dog.
When I was growing up, my uncle made the most kickass pork skewers. I remember asking him what was in it and he always said "7up!" I thought he was full of it until my mom was like, "There really is 7up in there, you know." I thought, "Awesome. Now that is totally summertime trashy!" When I began making my own marinade for pork skewers, I started out using 7up. There is science to it, not just shock value. (Speaking of which, I was making the marinade at a friend's house once and she was watching me pour half a can of Coke in it -- there wasn't any 7up -- and she was like, "That's what we're eating tomorrow??"). The carbonation helps soften the meat, and the sugar helps the meat caramelize on the grill (this is why so many bbq sauces have copious amounts of sugar). Ultimately, I replaced the 7up with pineapple juice -- this gives it a really nice 'fruity' flavor, also a boost in acidity, but still sweet. And, as we all know from Hawaii, pork and pineapple are an excellent combination.
Whenever we've had summer barbecues, and I would literally make a hundred of these and still have none left at the end. They are kind of like lumpia shanghai -- you don't know how many you've eaten until you've eaten too many.
A couple of important factors when it comes to making the skewers: Do prepare the marinade and marinate the pork the night before. I usually give it a stir in the morning to mix things up. The pork I use is pork shoulder -- it has nice amounts of fat in it that keeps the meat moist when it hits the grill. Don't use lean pork -- it'll just get dry. Also the fat itself ends up being those little crunchy bits that you hated as a kid but love as an adult. Save a bit of marinade for brushing over the meat while it's cooking (I've adjusted the recipe so you should have about 1/2 cup leftover for brushing when you are grilling). And last but not least, soak the skewers in water that day: it'll make it easier to put the pork on it without it reducing to shards. It also keeps the sticks from burning on the grill.

BBQ pork skewers makes about 20 skewers
Ingredients For marinade: 1/2 head of garlic, minced 1/2 cup pineapple juice 1/2 cup ketchup 1/3 cup dark soy sauce 1 teaspoon sesame oil 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 tablespoon honey 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt
2 pounds pork shoulder 8-inch bamboo skewers
- Combine all the marinade ingredients. Let it sit while you prepare the pork.
- Cut the pork into small pieces about ¼ inch in width. It'll feel like the pieces are too small, but this is important as huge chunks will not cook fast enough on the grill. Transfer the pork to an airtight plastic container.
- Reserve about a 1/2 cup of marinade. Pour the rest over the pork. Stir, put the cover on (make sure it is sealed, otherwise everything in your fridge will smell and taste like marinade). Set in the refrigerator for 8-24 hours.
- In the morning, give the pork a stir to make sure it's all distributed. Set your skewers in a container of water.
- About a half hour before you plan on grilling (more if you are making a lot), start skewering the pork, leaving an inch or so at the bottom of the skewer.
- Heat your grill as you normally do (relatively high if you have a gas grill). Grill the pork, brushing with the excess marinade everytime you turn them over.
- Serve with steamed rice, or, if you want to go classic pinoy fiesta-style, with pancit, lumpia shanghai and rice.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 5:17 PM |
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Monday, June 16, 2008
Stir-fried gai lan (chinese broccoli)

One of my all-time favorite vegetables is Chinese broccoli (also known as gai lan, sometimes spelled kai lan). It not only is really good for you (it's a classic leafy green, high in vitamin A and C), but it is super easy to cook and goes with just about anything. It is also really mild, absorbing the flavors of whatever you cook it in, so it is a good choice for those who are not crazy about greens. (We have this trick with my 5-year-old to get him to eat green vegetables. My daughter tells him, "It will make you really big and strong and it's good for your brain!" When he ate gai lan the other day, he said, "I can feel my brain growing!")
Classic flavors with gai lan are oyster sauce, soy, garlic and ginger. Oyster sauce is great by itself if you do a quick steam, then just pour a bit of oyster sauce over the greens. The water coming off the greens and oyster sauce will create a watery sauce that is really great on rice. My favorite though is a quick stir-fry with garlic, ginger and soy, which is how I prepare it in the recipe below.
Stir-fried gai lan serves 4
Ingredients about 200 grams gai lan 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon shredded ginger 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce, mixed with ½ cup water - Trim the ends of the stalks of the gai lan. Rinse under cold water.
- Heat a wok over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon cooking oil and swirl around to coat the pan. Add the gai lan. Fry, stirring, for 1 minute.
- Add the garlic and ginger and stir until combined (be careful not to burn the garlic). Add the soy mixture. Cover and reduce heat to medium low for 3-4 minutes.
- Uncover and stir. You might want to check the stalks to make sure they are tender enough. If they are still tough, add a bit more water and cover and cook for another minute or two. Otherwise, taste for saltiness and add a bit more soy if it's not salty enough.
- Turn out onto a plate and serve immediately.
 Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 5:08 PM |
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Saturday, June 07, 2008
Rice with everything
 Clockwise, from top left: Canarian mojo, Chickpeas stew, Homemade naan, Chicken katsu
I started a Facebook group called Rice With Everything. (In hypnotic voice, "You must join....") Basically, I realized, when I was watching Kyle eat spaghetti sauce with rice the other day, that yes, I have managed to have an impact on him. Good or bad is up to you.
In conjunction with the group creation, I've rounded up my "must-eat-with-rice" recipes. Peruse, and make sure to eat it all with rice.
Recipes that are great with rice
Rice pudding (rice for dessert-- how can you go wrong?) Chicken katsu Stir-fried snow peas Risotto with dried porcini mushrooms (okay, not with rice, but is rice itself) Quiche with bacon and cheese (yes, I do eat this with rice. Crazy, I know.) Homemade naan Butter chicken curry Chickpeas stew Canarian mojo (put this sauce on anything you want spicy. Although not traditional, it is off the hook with rice dishes.) Baked salmon with kecap manis Beef with coconut milk (ginitang)
On a related note, in all seriousness, there is a dark side. I read this article about the rising cost of rice and a worldwide shortage. If you've ever been to the Philippines, you'll understand why this situation is so dire: it is basically the only food that much of the population was able to afford. I felt the rice increase halfway across the globe-- the 20 lb bag at the Chinese grocery was nearly one-third more expensive. If I'm feeling the impact of rice prices, how much more devastating is it in the developing world? (One way to have a small impact? Play FreeRice.com.)
Even in the U.S., many people are hoarding rice because of the shortages. This may be hysteria (for now, at least), but I'll tell you what this most has to do with: rice type. For westernized Asians, this most impacts the sort of rice you buy. I gotta admit, when I have to buy anything other than jasmine rice (or even particular brands of jasmine rice) I can seriously tell the difference. I'm not exaggerating when I say I may have a freak out if the specific rice bag I normally buy is unavailable, or if the price is jacked. I'm hoping this hysteria in SF is just that: hysteria.
Links Facebook: Rice with Everything FreeRice.com NY Times: A Drought in Australia, a Global Shortage of Rice NY Times: A Run on Rice in Asian CommunitiesLabels: recipes, the savory and salty, the sweet
posted by sheryl | 8:58 PM |
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Monday, May 19, 2008
Umami burger

Earlier this month we had two weeks solid of summery weather, total no-jacket weather with absolutely no rain. Of course this got us thinking about barbecue. We went to the park and there were people barbecueing there, and Kyle was like, "Man, that is what summer smells like in the States." Most summers in Seattle, we would grill Filipino pork skewers (only the most kickass grilled item ever) and spend half the summer outside (since that is the only time of year you can spend any concentrated amount of time outside in Seattle).
We decided to grill that day, and of course it didn't occur to me that everyone and their mother would be grilling too (did I mention it was also a holiday weekend?) We found one bag of charcoal at the gas station, Kyle set it down for a second and yoink! some dude walked off with it. The last bag of charcoal in the neighborhood. Kyle had to bike to four different places before finding more.
When I forget to marinate something the day before, we'll just break out the burgers. I call these umami burgers because umami is that elusive "savouriness" taste that is most often provided by MSG (which I am definitely not opposed to because, you know, I'm Asian and all). Here it's worked in with Worcestershire sauce, and surprise, surprise, ketchup. (Why just have ketchup on top of the burger?) And seriously? It does not get any easier than grilling burgers (see 2-step process below.)
Umami burgers about 8 small burgers
Ingredients 1 kg ground beef 1 white onion, minced 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce 3 tablespoons ketchup 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- Mix all ingredients in a large bowl. Form into 8 patties.
- Grill!
Of course you'll want to go the extra yard and toast and butter the kaiser rolls (my bread of choice for this). Oh and cheese, and preferably some guac and it may just be the perfect burger.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 8:17 PM |
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Wednesday, February 06, 2008
I love guac

Last week I was in the grocery store grabbing stuff for making tacos (we do tacos stuffed with a chicken/chile/potato mixture courtesy of an old Rick Bayless recipe, sounds odd, yes but is totally delish) when I noticed green stuff next to the jars of salsa. It was jar guacamole, and it was something I hadn't noticed before. For whatever reason, I was fascinated: avocados can't possibly taste good out of a jar. I wasn't interested enough to invest in it just out of curiosity (something I often end up doing in the grocery store) and instead I grabbed the usual avocados instead.
The main reason that the jar-o-guac mystified me is because guacamole is so easy to make. I guess there are fancy lots-of-ingredients guac, but I prefer the simplest kind that you slam together right before eating. Mine has 4 ingredients: avocados, red onions, salt and vinegar. White wine vinegar works great, so does palm or rice vinegar. The onions don't even have to be red onions. If you have scallions on hand (and you probably will for the tacos anyway) use those, or even shallots, just not yellow onions. And kosher salt or sea salt is best because the texture is a bit crunchy. The only really important thing is that the avocados are ripe. If when you squeeze one at the store and it's the texture of a baseball, then it's not ripe yet-- don't use it that day. It should be a bit soft, but not too soft. And I don't care about the specific breed of avocado, a ripe one of any sort will taste good so don't spend a fortune on a Haas one or whatever, especially if it is out of season.
And maybe I'll try and post that chicken tacos recipe one of these days.
I love guac makes about 3/4 cup guacamole
Ingredients 1 medium avocado, very ripe 1/2 small red onion, minced 1-2 tablespoons white wine vinegar Salt to taste
- Halve the avocado and remove the pit. Scoop out the flesh into a medium bowl.
- Put the minced onion in a small sieve and run it under cold water. (This keeps the onion from being too sharp.) Shake off the excess water and add it to the avocado.
- Mash the mixture with a fork, adding 1 tablespoon of vinegar and a couple pinches of salt. Stir and taste, adding more vinegar if necessary.
- Serve with tortilla chips, or tacos, burritos, whatever!
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 3:40 PM |
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Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Roman holiday
 The Pantheon, as shot by the little chica
It's been a while since my previous post, but hopefully some travel pics will make up for it. During the holidays, my mom and niece came to visit, and as a treat, we went to Rome for a few days. We'll definitely have to make a return trip because three of the five days were spent tending to a sick baby with an awful stomach virus, poor thing. Thankfully, we were staying in an apartment in Prati, where there was no shortage of good takeout pizza.
I had come to Rome with a list of recommendations from various articles and blogs. But after Day 1, I came away a bit disappointed and discovered that coming with a list is totally unnecessary in Rome; I didn't need to seek out the absolute best coffee, or ice cream or pizza because if you stay in a regular, not-too-touristic neighborhood, the great stuff will just be at the place closest to your neighborhood. Within a few blocks of where we stayed, we stumbled on a really good bakery, a restaurant that was happy to do takeout pizza for us and a shop dedicated to fresh pasta of every sort (which we unfortunately did not have time to try.) The standard of things like coffee and ice cream is high everywhere, so, like Paris, it's not necessary to go across town for the one that the Times or the foodies on eGullet claim is the absolute best. Ultimately, maybe my palate isn't so refined, but who cares? We still had some great eats!
I discovered that I found central Rome to be incredibly touristic (not a surprise, but still a surprise, like the crowds at the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain, yikes!), and I also discovered that when given her own camera, my 10-year-old little chica takes some really nice pictures. In fact, while I was getting deja vu while snapping pictures of Piazza Navona and the like (you know how you feel like you've seen something 100 times before, but not in person?), she somehow captured some interesting shots of the photographed-for-the-millionth time Pantheon and Coliseum. There's something to be said for seeing something for the first time ever!
 Here's Dolce Maniera, the bakery where we picked up fruit tarts and croissants. Kyle and I stopped in here because we saw a group of old ladies standing outside with bags, so we walked down this stairs to this bakery which seemed to always be this crowded. The cornetti were really nice: sweet but not too sweet, and they had an orange taste to it. We devoured a bag of them on the plane ride back to Holland. Oh and can I talk about queuing in Rome? I got the impression that there is none. You push your way to the front, that's the queue. What was funny is that on this night, there was a group of Filipinas there (no queuing over there either, believe me), so the crowd was twice as pushy. Go to a popular Filipino seafood market sometime and you'll know what I'm talking about!
 Chestnut vendor in the Campo de' Fiori. We all loved the roasted chestnuts in the street. The smell alone was worth the trip. All the vendors used these drum grills and the same yellow paper cones.

 Another treat in the Campo de' Fiori. Pizza from the Forno Campo de' Fiori. Not quite street food like panzerotti, but still awesome. The little guy likes.
 Hot chocolate at Tazzo d'Oro, near the Pantheon. Hey, the coffee here wasn't too shabby either.
 Sundried tomatoes at the market.
 And of course, ice cream. Who cares that it's winter? I didn't have anything quite like Grom, but I didn't have anything bad either.
 Little chica's shot of the Coliseum.Labels: the chocolatey, the savory and salty, the sweet, travel
posted by sheryl | 10:55 AM |
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Friday, October 05, 2007
Wok season

One of my favorite pieces of cookware is my carbon-steel wok. You've seen these before: if you've ever walked into a Chinatown grocery store, they are in the aisle on the far wall, near the soup bowls and such, usually teetering haphazardly in stacks. They are really cheap-- usually unber 20 euros-- and come in loads of different sizes.
There are problems with these woks when you first bring them home. They have a nasty metallic smell. They rust instantly. They usually have cheap wooden handles that instantly turns black. But once properly seasoned, they are the most excellent cooking utensils for anything stir-fried.
You may ask, why go through the trouble? Why not buy a super nice non-stick wok made by All-Clad or Calphalon? I admit, I have a non-stick wok. But I use this almost exclusively for garlic fried rice (Filipino sinangang - yum) or making omelettes (yes, it sounds weird, but my non-stick wok is the easiest thing for cooking eggs-- they are really easy to flip!). However, the carbon steel wok is the hero of the stir fry-- you can use it over the highest heat you can get, and if it's well-seasoned, it will not only make the food taste better (all the little browned caramelized parts everywhere), but it'll be naturally non-stick as well. This applies as well to a well-seasoned cast iron pan: anyone who's used one knows that non-stick cookware is not a substitute.
I've actually combined two methods of seasoning: 1) rubbing oil into the wok surface, and 2) deep-frying chinese chives. I've never actually tried the deep frying of chives by itself, but I've heard that this is a good way, by itself, to cure a wok. I feel as though it gets rid of that weird metallic smell and taste. The thing to remember is to discard the chives rather than eating them.
Once you've seasoned the wok, whip up a batch of snow peas. This is one of the simplest things I know how to make, and the flavor is best in a wok. Plus it has the added value of continuing to season -- a seasoned wok only gets better with use.
How to season a carbon steel wok
- Scrub the brand new wok inside and out with hot water, dish detergent and a scouring pad. Set on a burner over medium heat.
- Using tongs, dip a wadded-up paper towel into peanut oil. Rub it around the inside of the wok until it 'drinks' up the oil.
- Switch to a new wadded-up paper towel and rub the oil all around the inside of the wok. Once it seems like it's absorbed all the oil, repeat step 2.
- Keep doing steps 2 and 3 until the paper towel no longer turns black when rubbing. This should take about 15-20 minutes, and will be about 3 or 4 repetitions of steps 2 and 3.
- You should have a blackened area in the center of the wok - after lots of use, your wok will eventually look entirely like that.
- Heat the wok again over medium heat. Add 1 cup peanut oil and a large handful of chinese chives. Fry for about 10 minutes. Discard.
To care for your wok, rinse it each time immediately after frying in it without using dish soap; just a soft sponge. Dry it on the burner rather than using towels or dish racks-- this will prevent rusting.
Stir-fried snow peas Don't substitute snap peas. Those are delicious too, but they need to be cooked differently. They will become instantly mushy in a high-heat stir fry.
Ingredients 250 grams snow peas 2 cloves garlic, minced about 1 teaspoon Maggi sauce - Rinse the snow peas and drain in a colander (it is good if they have a bit of water clinging to them.)
- Heat the wok over high heat. When it is totally hot, add 3 tablespoons peanut oil and swirl around the entire wok.
- Add the snow peas and stir fry for 2 minutes, or just until they turn bright green.
- Add the garlic and Maggi sauce, fry for another 30 seconds or so, then turn out onto a plate and serve immediately.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 9:57 AM |
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Monday, September 03, 2007
Comfort and katsu

The other day I was filling in some profile information on Chowhound, such as location, website, blah blah blah, but because it's a foodie message board, it had some interesting ones like "The best meal you ever had." I had to think for a second on the one labeled, "Favorite comfort food." What is my favorite comfort food? I guess for me, what it ultimately means is not just what gives me comfort to eat, but what dish am I happy to cook, and what does my family like to eat over and over again.
My friends Melinda and Mark just moved to Hawaii recently. After the envy subsided, I started--of course--thinking about lunch. Hawaiian plate lunch, specifically. Oh, you don't know what plate lunch is? Let me tell you-- it is basically the ultimate comfort food for an Asian. It's typically some sort of meat (you choose) served with heaps of rice and a huge scoop of mac salad. Double starching it-- oh yeah! (I love the double starch. At home whenever I make mashed potatoes, we end up eating it with rice.) The Filipino version of the ABC motto should be "Always Be Carb-loading".
I realized then that actually my favorite home-cooked comfort food is something that definitely falls into plate lunch world: Katsu chicken. This is totally my kids' favorite dish and about the easiest thing in the world to make. Basically it's chicken cutlet, but with panko breadcrumbs and served with rice and tonkatsu sauce. It's like, Asian chicken fingers or something. And it is delish. We eat so much katsu at home that when we moved to Holland, I was really worried about something that seems relatively minor to most anyone else: Where would I get tonkatsu sauce? My four-year-old basically needs to drown his rice in the sauce when we eat katsu, so you can't underestimate the importance of the sauce. (Otherwise, it's just fried chicken and rice, right?) I had an elaborate plan of asking all visitors from the States to bring us a bottle each time they visited, and then we would build up a stockpile. But no need, in the end I randomly found the famous Bulldog label glowering at me from the shelf at a Chinese grocery in the Hague. Yes, it was like 5 euros for a small bottle. But who cares at that point?
So pour on the Bulldog, and maybe even make some macaroni salad. Put on some Iz and at least you can pretend you're in the islands. And Mark and Melinda: eat some malasadas for me-- those donuts beat Crispy Creme any day!
Katsu Chicken serves 4 Don't bother if you don't have panko breadcrumbs; it absolutely will not be the same. If you can, try honey panko. It has a very subtle sweetness to it (and smells lovely when you pour it into the bowl.)
Ingredients 1-1/2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 large eggs 1 cup Japanese panko breadcrumbs 2 cups canola oil (or any other light-colored oil, such as sunflower oil, which is what I prefer)
- With a sharp chef's knife, split the chicken breasts lengthwise so you have two equal pieces. (this will make the chicken flatter so it cooks faster when you deep fry it.) Pound (but not too thin) to equal thickness all over. Pat dry with a paper towel.
- Combine the flour, salt and pepper in one bowl. Beat the eggs lightly in a second bowl. Place the panko in a large, shallow bowl or pie plate.
- Bread the chicken in the typical assembly line: flour first, then eggs, then panko. Shake off excess after each step. Place the breaded pieces on a plate.
- Heat the oil in a heavy 3 or 4-quart saucepan to 325 degrees (I always use a candy thermometer.)
- Fry the chicken in batches, 1-2 minutes on each side. Place the finished pieces on a cooling rack to stay crispy (I noticed that they get a bit soggier if you put them on paper towels, so a cooling rack does a better job.)
- Serve with tonkatsu sauce and heaps and heaps of steaming white rice.

Don't forget the Bulldog!Labels: recipes, the savory and salty, travel
posted by sheryl | 7:44 PM |
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Monday, May 28, 2007
Four ingredients = Tomato mozzarella tart

My friend Deb brought over some really nice plum tomatoes from our excellent (and huge!) market right here in Den Haag. They were so sweet, and I also had some cherry tomatoes from our vegetable subscription, so I had to make something that featured them. Salad? Too boring. I ended up making something just as easy: a tomato mozzarella tart that, besides the tomatoes, uses only three other ingredients that anyone might have on hand: fresh mozzarella, basil and frozen puff pastry. (I'm not counting olive oil or salt and pepper as ingredients though!) One rule though: you gotta have good tomatoes, so none of those icky pink winter hothouse tomatoes here-- only the real deal will do. Tomato mozzarella tart adapted from Cooks Illustrated makes one 9 x 13 tart Ingredients 1 pound box of frozen puff pastry, thawed in refrigerator overnight 8 ounces fresh mozzarella, drained and sliced 1 pound ripe tomatoes a handful of basil leaves, chopped - Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Set parchment paper on a 13 x 9 baking sheet. Lay out the puff pastry, pressing down to seal the seams between the sheets. Cut 1-inch strips of pastry to make a frame around the tart, brushing with egg or water between the layers. Bake for 15 minutes or until puffed and golden brown.
- Remove tart shell from oven and cool on a cooling rack. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees F.
- Slice the tomatoes into rounds and set in a single layer over paper towels. Sprinkle liberally with salt and allow to sit for 30 minutes.
- Press down on the tomatoes with more paper towel, absorbing some of the moisture (this will prevent the tart from becoming too soggy).
- Place the cheese in a single layer on the pastry crust. Place the tomatoes in a single layer on top of the cheese. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Drizzle olive oil over the whole thing.
- Bake for 15-17 minutes. Sprinkle the basil over the tart. Cool on a cooling rack for a few minutes, transfer to cutting board or serving dish and serve warm or at room temperature.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 2:15 PM |
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Tuesday, May 22, 2007
R to the izzo
 Dried porcini mushrooms
While in Bergamo, Italy, I bought some local dried porcini mushrooms as recommended by our friend Donatella. (An aside: let me tell you-- it is soooo nice travelling with someone local to ask all the questions and tell you where to go! And she knows her food, so that's an added bonus.) I brought them home and what's the natural thing to do with them? Make risotto, of course.
Some notes: Risotto is usually stirred constantly while cooking. I've found that this doesn't necessarily have to be the case (although maybe some like the arm workout.) I add the first couple cups of stock straightaway, cover, and let it simmer away for eight minutes or so, until the stock is mostly absorbed. This way, it's off to a rockin start, and you just have to do the stir-and-add-stock for the last ten minutes of cooking or so. Plus, you can make a salad and slice up some bread in the meantime.
If you have a risotto method that you already like-- go for it. Just because I'm lazy doesn't mean you have to follow me!
Risotto with dried porcini mushrooms 4-5 servings
Ingredients 30 grams dried porcini mushrooms 5 cups chicken stock 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 shallots, minced 1/2 cup red wine 2 teaspoons sea salt 1-3/4 cups arborio rice A small handful of fresh sage leaves, minced Grana Padano, for grating
- Soak the porcini mushrooms in 1 cup of hot water for 30 minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid. Add the soaking liquid to the chicken stock. Chop the mushrooms very fine.
- Place the stock in a medium saucepan over low heat. Make sure it's on the burner next to the one you'll be using for the risotto. The stock will stay over the low heat as you cook the risotto.
- Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Melt the butter and add the shallots, sauteing them until they are soft, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and continue stirring and cooking for a minute or two.
- Add the mushrooms and wine. Stir until the liquid is mostly absorbed.
- Add 2 cups stock and the salt, bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the liquid is mostly absorbed, 8-10 minutes.
- Uncover, add 1/2 cup stock and stir until, again, mostly absorbed. Continue adding the stock in 1/2 cup increments until its finished. The mixture should be quite creamy, but the rice will still have just a hint of chew. Taste for salt.
- Sprinkle the sage over the rice and pass the cheese for grating.
Labels: recipes, the savory and salty, travel
posted by sheryl | 8:35 AM |
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Sunday, April 15, 2007
Quiche duo

Somehow I have many friends right now expecting babies. Here's the perfect food gift to bring over for new parents who are too exhausted to cook. I don't know anyone who doesn't like quiche, and honestly, who doesn't like an all-butter pastry crust? I have two options here: one with bacon, and one with spinach and mushrooms for those that don't dig meat. But, you can basically use any savory ingredients that you would use in an omelet-- it'll all taste good.
Quiche with bacon and cheese makes one 9-inch quiche
Ingredients
For pastry crust: 1-1/4 cups flour (160 grams) 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 stick (8 tablespoons) very cold butter (110 grams), cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon creme fraiche 3 tablespoons ice water
For the filling: 150 grams bacon 1 cup shredded cheese, such as a medium Gouda or cheddar 3 large eggs 3/4 cup heavy cream (180 ml) 3/4 cup whole milk (180 ml) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon finely ground black pepper pinch of nutmeg
- For the pastry crust: Combine flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter, and using a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal, with some crumbs the size of peas. (It is important that the mixture is not totally uniform.) Combine the creme fraiche and water. Add the creme fraiche mixture to the flour mixture, stirring with a fork. The dough should still be rather dry, but add up to 2 tablespoons of water until the dough gathers into a ball, but is not sticky. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
- On a floured surface, roll the dough into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie dish or tart pan. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the dough to settle.
- Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C). Prick the crust all over the bottom with a fork. Bake for 17 minutes. (If within the first few minutes of baking, the pie crust starts to balloon a bit, just push the ballooning areas back down gently with your finger.
- For the filling: In the meantime, prepare the filling. Fry the bacon until crisp, then crumble into bite size pieces.
- Combine the eggs, milk, cream, salt pepper and nutmeg.
- When the crust is done baking, lower the oven temperature to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C). Sprinkle the shredded cheese over the bottom of the crust, making sure to cover any holes in the crust with the cheese (this will prevent the crust from leaking). Sprinkle the bacon over the crust, then pour the eggs mixture into the crust. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the crust is brown and the filling is golden and puffy.
Quiche with spinach, mushrooms and cheese makes one 9-inch quiche Ingredients 1 recipe pastry crust (above) 3-4 ounces fresh spinach (100 grams) 8 ounces sliced button mushrooms (250 grams) 1 shallot, minced 1 cup shredded cheese, such as a medium Gouda or cheddar 3 large eggs 3/4 cup heavy cream (180 ml) 3/4 cup whole milk (180 ml) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon finely ground black pepper pinch of nutmeg - Prepare the pastry crust same as above. While the crust is pre-baking, prepare the filling. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. Saute the mushrooms until they are lightly browned. Add the shallot and spinach and continue to saute until the spinach is bright green. Season with a bit of salt and pepper and set aside.
- Combine the eggs, cream, milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set aside.
- Remove the pastry crust from the oven and lower oven temperature to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C). Sprinkle the shredded cheese over the bottom of the crust, making sure to cover any holes in the crust with the cheese (this will prevent the crust from leaking). Add the spinach mushroom mixture, then pour the egg mixture over it. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the crust is brown and the filling is golden and puffy.
 Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 12:45 PM |
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Friday, March 23, 2007
Make your own naan
Yay, with this post, I'm participating for the first time in WTSIM food blogging event. The theme is Waiter, there's something in my... bread! and it's hosted by Spittoon.
This is the naan recipe to serve with butter chicken. I've tried buying the ready-made stuff at the Asian grocery store, but am generally not that excited about it. (A lot of the time, it just ends up resembling really doughy pita bread.) It is nothing like the crispy/chewy/a-bit-greasy naan that you get at the hole-in-the-wall. So I decided to make my own. Granted, this isn't really naan, which is prepared in a tandoori oven when it's the real deal, but it comes at least a bit closer than those packages at the grocery store. I've tried recipes from Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford (one of my favorite food writing teams-- Hot Sour Salty Sweet is still one of the best cookbooks out there, in my opinion), but they somehow seemed too involved, and seem to require huge amounts of bread-baking flour-- something I don't always have on hand. I found the go-to recipe in Joy of Cooking of all places (the 1997 edition, not the new one). It is easy, quick if you use a stand mixer, and it basically rises while you make the rest of dinner.
A bit like naan Makes 4 12-inch pieces of naan
Ingredients 2 cups bread flour (I usually just substitute all-purpose flour) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1-1/4 teaspoons instant yeast (the same type of yeast I use for waffles) 3/4 cups whole milk yogurt, at room temperature (if I'm in a hurry, I heat cold yogurt in the microwave for 10 seconds or so, then stir it so it's room temperature) 2 tablespoons cooking oil 2 tablespoons water
- Combine the flour, salt and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer. Stir until well-combined.
- Add the yogurt and cooking oil. Using the dough hook at medium-low speed, gradually add the water. Knead with the dough hook for 10 minutes until the dough looks nice and elastic. Form into a bowl, transfer into a large, oiled bowl and turn to coat. Cover with cling wrap and let rise for 1-1/2 hours.
- Preheat oven with baking sheet in it, at 475 degrees F. Punch down the dough and divide into 4 balls. Roll in a bit of flour and let stand, covered with cling wrap, for 10 minutes.
- On a lightly floured surface, roll or stretch the dough into pieces about 12-14 inches in length and about 6 inches in width. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with sea salt.
- Bake for 6 minutes until light golden and puffy in areas. Remove to a cloth lined dish.

Links: Crispy waffle: Butter chicken curry recipeLabels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 11:04 AM |
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Spicy kids
Kyle and I love spicy food. This is all fine and good, but things change when you have a gang of kids. Judging by the chicken fingers and mac and cheese all over childrens' menus, most North American kids aren't fans of the spicy. My kids won't eat five-alarm stuff, but they are generally okay with mildly spicy. I don't know why this is-- maybe because they were breastfed and the tastes come through? (I guess this applies to garlic too). Whatever it is, we're blessed because they can generally eat what we eat. (And if it's still not spicy enough for Kyle, he'll add a bit of that Canarian mojo to get the job done.)
I do have a couple of tricks up my little sleeve to get them to eat hotter food than general though: cream and coconut milk. When one of these ingredients are involved, we can add a bit more chile than the kiddos would like otherwise. Here's one of their favorite mildly spicy curries. (I know it's not real butter chicken-- there's no butter in sight-- but it resembles the butter chicken at my kids' favorite Indian place in Seattle.)

Butter chicken serves 4
For the chicken: 1/2 kilo boneless skinless chicken (either chicken breasts or thighs, or a combination of the two) 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon dried turmeric
For the sauce: 1 large onion, minced 6 cloves of garlic, minced 1-inch piece of ginger, minced 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/4 teaspoon dried turmeric 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3/4 cups pureed canned tomatoes 1/4 cup whole milk yogurt 1/2 cup water 2 teaspoons salt 1/3 cup full cream 1 teaspoon garam masala 1 handful cilantro, minced
- Combine the spices for the chicken. Rub onto the chicken pieces and let sit for 1 hour.
- Meanwhile, combine the garlic, ginger and a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle and pound until a paste forms. Add 3 tablespoons of water to the paste. Set aside.
- In a small bowl, combine the cumin, coriander, cayenne pepper, black pepper and turmeric for the sauce and set aside.
- Heat 2 tablespoons sunflower oil in a large Dutch oven over high heat. Add the chicken pieces (don't crowd) and brown on both sides-- don't worry if they aren't cooked in the middle; they will finish cooking in the sauce later. Remove the chicken pieces and set aside on a plate.
- Lower the heat to medium and add the onions. Fry until the onions are just a bit browned, then add the garlic/ginger mix. Cook until the water is almost evaporated, then add the dried spice mixture. Stir carefully until the spices are fragrant, taking care not to burn them.
- Add the pureed tomatoes and lower heat to medium low. Cook, stirring for about 5 minutes until the sauce has thickened a bit.
- Add the yogurt, maybe a tablespoon at a time, making sure it is incorporated before adding more. (This prevents the yogurt from curdling.)
- Add the chicken, along with it's accumulated juices. Stir to combine, then add the 1/2 cup water and 2 teaspoons salt. Lower heat to low, cover and cook for 15 minutes. (If you are using chicken thighs, cook for 10 minutes longer.)
- Remove the chicken to a cutting board. Add the cream to the sauce, along with the garam masala and stir to combine, reducing the sauce just a bit. Cut the chicken into serving pieces and add back to the sauce, along with the cilantro. Serve right away with rice and naan (see recipe here).
Links: Crispy waffle: Naan recipe Crispy waffle: Canarian mojo recipeLabels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 10:37 AM |
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Tuesday, March 06, 2007
Canary Islands mojo
 Arid hills on Fuerteventura, Canary Islands. Many of the hills like this had goats grazing on them.
We just got back from Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands. It was really nice for a short sun and sand holiday, and better yet, we discovered a couple of local treats that we didn't previously know about. But first, here are some facts about the islands:
- There are seven major islands in the Canaries: La Palma, El Hierro, La Gomera, Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura and Lanzarote
- All canaries (the birds) descend from birds native to the Canaries (the islands). The name of the islands came first, allegedly named by the Romans when they encountered fierce dogs kept by the native population. (And so called the island 'Gran Canaria', and the people canarii, because they kept the dogs; canine being Latin for dog, of course. )
- The islands have been under Spanish rule since 1495.
- The indigenous population is called the Guanches.
- Fuerteventura, which has a dry desert climate (only 18 days of rain a year, on average), still has more goats than people.
 Some of the ingredients for mojo picón: red pepper, dried pepper, garlic
So even if my facts are iffy, no matter-- there's your primer! Anyway, back to the treats. Although the food encountered is mostly mainland Spanish (jamón serrano, tapas, bocadillos), we did find a few things unique to the Canaries. The main indigenous Canarian food staple is gofio, a toasted grain flour that is used to make porridge and desserts. You could maybe call it the poi of the Canaries. I had never seen gofio on mainland Spain, and so I bought a bag of it at the grocery, where there was an entire section of the various types of gofio. (Some consist of corn, barley, wheat, or a mixture of the different grains.) I'm going to try to reproduce the one gofio item that I ate that was delish: a dessert called mus de gofio, or gofio mousse. All the recipes I've seen so far differ immensely (some call for egg yolks, like a traditional mousse, and others call for condensed milk as a sweetener, with no egg). Hopefully I'll figure it out and post it, without wasting the whole kilo of gofio in the process! Other Canarian specialties are queso majorero (Canarian goat cheese), and anything involving goat meat, such as roasted cabrito (roasted kid goat). (Fuerteventura has a lot of goats because of the non-vegetation-friendly climate there-- there are barely any trees on the island!) The food preparation that most captured our attention was mojo. Not mojo like Austin Powers, but mojo-- pronounced 'mo-ho'-- as in a sauce. It is basically the Romesco sauce of the Canaries, and comes in different incarnations: red mojo (the most common), green mojo, goat cheese mojo, etc. It is apparently used on nearly everything, but most commonly found on papas arrugadas, or 'wrinkled potatoes'. These are small potatoes boiled in their skins in sea water then cooked dry until they gain a wrinkly appearance. Mojo is then poured on top and it is served as the most common tapa in the Canaries. I bought a bottle of the mojo picon, the red pepper mojo, but decided to just try to make my own at home. After going through various recipes (in Spanish and English!) here's what I came up with. It is actually really similar to Romesco-- many recipes even call for almonds-- but all seemed to have the North African touch of cumin, which gives it a bit of a different flavor. Many recipes seem to call for the spicy dried red pepper found in the Canaries, but as that isn't very common, I used a typical dried red pepper, like the type found in Asian grocery stores, and used a bell pepper to give it fresh flavor, color and also to control the spiciness. (There was no point in using several dried peppers-- all you would taste is spicy and nothing else.) I came pretty close to the mojos that I had while there, and you can further adjust it to taste by using more or less vinegar as well. 
Canarian Mojo Picón makes about 1 cup of sauce Ingredients: 8 cloves of garlic, minced 1 dried red pepper 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 small red bell pepper, diced, seeds and stem removed 1/4 cup white wine vinegar 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil - Remove the seeds from the dried red pepper. Soak it in boiling water for at least 2 hours.
- Mash the dried pepper in a mortar and pestle. Add the cumin seeds, garlic and salt, and pound until a paste is formed.
- Place the paste in a blender or food processor. Add the bell pepper, vinegar and olive oil, and process until smooth.
The sauce is traditionally served with papas arrugadas. You can substitute steamed or boiled new potatoes. I had larger potatoes on hand last night, so I roasted them instead, with olive oil and salt, and they tasted crazy good with the mojo.
 Labels: recipes, the savory and salty, travel
posted by sheryl | 9:25 AM |
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Monday, May 22, 2006
Recipes: Chickpea Stew
 Drained chickpeas
After our trip to Tunisia, I made a slightly disasterous attempt at a Tunisian-style couscous (don't worry-- it was still edible, just kind of clumpy). I had found the super fine-grained couscous at the open-air market here, but I think the cooking time was off or something, not to mention that one of the handles of my couscoussier fell off while lugging a heavy load of chickpeas to the sink. Since I had purchased a huge bag of dried chickpeas, the next day I temporarily gave up on couscous and decided to make one of my favorite stews.
This has similar North African flavors, but my personal inspiration was chicken apretada, a Filipino dish I grew up with. One aspect of that dish that I never totally liked was the chicken itself; it always seemed to dry out a bit, and it also made the stew a little greasier than I would have liked. But I love the flavors of red pepper and tomato together, and had found the perfect application when I replaced chicken with chickpeas (hey, they sound the same.) In Filipino dishes, chickpeas are more commonly used in pochero, which has eggplants and pork. But this is my unusual version of apretada-- although sometimes I will add some chicken tenders toward the end to give it that classic chicken-y flavor that I grew up with.
One added bonus of making a big batch of this is that the stew is even better the next day, once the flavors have come together and it has thickened a bit. I like to add a splash of fish sauce when I'm eating it (that's my pinay side coming out!)
Chickpea Stew (or "garbanzo apretada")
Ingredients 3 tbsp olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced 4 cloves of garlic, minced 1 medium sized red bell pepper, diced 2 15-oz cans chickpeas, drained (or 1-1/4 cup dried chickpeas cooked in advance) 1 lb yellow Finn potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 15-oz can diced tomatoes 3 cups chicken stock (or if you cooked your own dried chickpeas, use cooking liquid with some salt added to taste) 3 tsp salt Freshly ground black pepper Handful of fresh parsley, chopped - In a Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and stir until onions are a bit soft, about 4-5 minutes. Add the minced red bell pepper and continue to cook until the bell pepper softens, another 4-5 minutes.
- Add the potatoes, followed by the white wine. Allow the wine to reduce to about half.
- Add the chickpeas, tomatoes and their juice, chicken stock and salt. Stir and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer, partially covered until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. You can continue cooking a bit until the liquid is reduced to desired consistency (if you like a thicker stew).
- Take off the heat and add freshly ground black pepper to taste and the chopped parsley.
- Serve with steaming white rice and maybe a nice salad or my favorite: sweet pickled sliced cucumbers.

Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 10:40 AM |
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Saturday, April 08, 2006
Recipes: Super salmon
As a Seattlelite, I love salmon, simply because it is so ubiquitous. It also has it's virtues as an easy food at home: super easy to cook, doesn't require a grocery list of seasonings, and is hard to screw up (unless you basically set out to overcook it, which, believe me, will ruin it). Yesterday I bought a half-kilo of salmon at the fish stand without knowing what I would do with it (it was Friday, it's Lent and it's fish), but got it home and accidentally stumbled on something really good. Out of laziness I usually broil the thing with whatever spices etc. fit the bill, but this time I put it in the oven on much lower heat and the whole thing came out really really nice. It seemed to be more tender all aroundthan when it is broiled, and had a little bit of a crust from the sweet marinade. And took less than half an hour to put on the table (take that Rachael Ray!) Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures because I didn't expect anything special, but after the fam devoured it, I decided that maybe, hey, I should post the recipe.
Baked Salmon with Kecap Manis* Ingredients: 1 pound salmon fillet 2 scallions cut in half lengthwise, and trimmed to fit your baking dish 1/2 pound spinach (or any other tender greens such as swiss chard, etc.)
For marinade: 3 tablespoons dark soy sauce (often labeled 'soy sauce superior') 2 tablespoons mirin 3 tablespoons kecap manis* 2 teaspoons sugar
For sauce: 1/2 cup stock (fish stock is nice, but chicken stock is fine) 2 teaspoons salt A few drops of sesame oil 1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 teaspoons water
- Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
- Place the whole salmon fillet in a shallow dish. Combine the ingredients for the marinade and pour over the salmon. Leave to marinate for 10 minutes.
- Arrange the scallions in a row in the bottom of an 8x8 baking dish. Remove the salmon from the marinade and set on top of the scallions. Place in the oven and bake for 12-15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet, or until an instant-read thermometer reads 120 degrees at the thickest part of the fish. (Thanks to frequent Good Eats viewership, I have a digital probe thermometer, which is really handy for everything like this, not to mention Alton Brown's excellent recipe for standing rib roast.) I had a pretty thick piece of fish the other day, so it actually ended up taking about 18 minutes to reach the 120 degrees.
- Meanwhile, make the sauce. Combine the marinade with the stock, salt and sesame oil and bring to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Dunk the spinach in the sauce until it wilts slightly (this should only take a few seconds) and remove the spinach (sans sauce) to your serving dish. Add the dissolved cornstarch to the simmering sauce and allow to thicken slightly.
- Remove salmon from the oven and transfer it and the scallions to serving dish with the spinach. Pour the sauce over it and serve with lots of white rice.
*Kecap manis is a sweet soy sauce from Indonesia. I was introduced to its virtues ever since moving to Holland, where it is used extensively in Indonesian cooking. It's readily available in Asian grocery stores such as Uwajimaya in Seattle, and is basically the same product as Thai sweet soy sauce.Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 12:19 PM |
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Saturday, February 11, 2006
Recipes: Cheater's Soup Noodles
I've had a nagging cold lately. I haven't been, like, sick sick, just a bit under the weather-- congested and sneezing. Whenever that happens, all I seem to want are Chinese noodle soups, or mami soup, as it's known in the Philippines. The problem is when I feel that way, I don't feel like cooking, so I cheat. No homemade stock-- just (gasp) Thai boullion cubes, and (gasp) dried noodles. But, it'll taste just as good as the real deal when you're sick (and even if you're not) and if you disguise it with other ingredients. And, by the way, the whole thing takes less than 10 minutes, start to finish, so you can take a nap afterwards.
Quick Soup Noodles 2 servings I usually make this with whatever is in the house. If you have leftover chicken, add it, or if you have other vegetables such as cabbage, bok choy or any other quick-cooking leafy greens.
Ingredients: 4 cups water 2 Thai chicken boullion cubes 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon fish sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (or 1 dried whole chile) 1 garlic clove 2-3 mushrooms handful of spinach (or any other green vegetables that are in the house) 2 hard-boiled eggs 2 scallions, sliced into 1/2 inch pieces 100 grams dried Chinese egg noodles
Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Meanwhile, heat the 4 cups of water in a teakettle. When it boils, pour it into a saucepan and dissolve the boullion cubes. Add the sesame oil, fish sauce, red pepper flakes (or whole chile), and salt and pepper. Smash the garlic clove a little bit with a knife, and add it to the broth, followed by the mushrooms and spinach. Cover and simmer on low-medium heat.
Add the dried noodles to the large pot of boiling water and boil for 2 minutes. Drain, run under cold water and divide between two soup bowls.
Slice the hard-boiled eggs lengthwise and add to the soup bowls.
Pour the hot broth over the noodles and egg, and garnish with scallions.
Slurp with a soup spoon and chopsticks.
 The type of Chinese egg noodles that cook fast (this is about 4 servings)...
 ... to make soup noodles in less than 10 minutes.Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 7:29 PM |
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Monday, December 12, 2005
One of the easiest recipes I know
One of my favorite categories of foods to cook is the low-effort, high-reward dishes. And one of those, which demonstrates some of the magic that happens when simple ingredients are heated for long periods of time, is pork shoulder braised in milk.
The version I make is a slight variation of one I learned from Marcella Hazan's books. Her original is done on a stove and involves a bit more fussiness, but I prefer mine for overall simplicity -- I do it in a crock pot instead.
Here's the recipe... don't blink and miss it.
- Brown your pork shoulder (also known as a boston butt) in a bit of olive oil and butter.
- Put the pork shoulder in a crock pot.
- Pour a few cups of milk in around the pork shoulder. I use a quart of whole milk because I'm usually cooking for a crowd, but with a smaller chunk of meat you'll want to use less.
- Add salt and pepper. You could also add sage or garlic or something here -- that's what I did the last time I made this dish -- but it really doesn't need it.
- Cook on low for eight+ hours. I've let it go 12 with no ill effects.
- Remove the pork shoulder.
- De-fat the cooking liquid using whatever method you prefer, pour the remaining cooking liquid and beautiful nutty milk bits into a pan, and reduce by half.
- While the liquid is reducing, slice the pork if you can, or shred it if it's too tender to slice well.
- Pour the liquid and the beautiful nutty milk bits over the top.
- EAT
Unfortunately I was too distracted by the smell to snap a picture of the end product the last time I made this, but I can show you the beginning, at least.
 Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by david adam edelstein | 5:50 AM |
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Friday, July 15, 2005
Not lemons, but plenty of garlic
OK, so Sheryl's even stopped threatening me with bodily harm for neglecting my preserved lemon reportage. But I'm going to beg your indulgence for a bit longer because I want to talk about something possibly even more important: babaganoush.
Friends, do you buy your BBG from the grocery store? Are you regularly disappointed? I thought so. I'm here to tell you that you never need do that again, because delish homemade BBG is so easy, even I can teach you how.
First off, the ingredients list:
2 good-sized eggplants 1 lemon garlic tahini (sesame paste) salt XV olive oil
Next: Get some coals going in your barbecue. Don't tell me about your gas grill, punk, light yourself up some righteous charcoal or you might as well just bake 'em. (Which actually does work well too, in a hot oven. Or a gas grill. If you must.)
Wash your eggplants. Tear off the little crown of leaves. Take a paring knife and make several incisions in the surface of the eggplants, maybe 3/4" deep.
Peel several garlic cloves, cut them in halves or thirds depending on size, and insert your little garlic presents into the incisions in the eggplant. You may find that it's easier if you twist the paring knife a bit as you stabbity stab the eggplants.
Next, throw your eggplants on the grill:

You're going to leave them there for 30-50 minutes, with the grill cover on. Turn them occasionally, letting the skin burn and the juices ooze, until they look roughly like this:

You need to leave them until they're very soft, so that when you poke them with your tongs, they squish easily.
Done? OK, take them off the grill, slit them open to let the steam out, and let them sit while you get the food processor or blender out.
Once they've cooled (no burnt fingers!), peel and discard the charred skin. Make sure the by now deliciously steamed garlic stays behind!
Throw the eggplant and garlic into the food processor. If you like a little more garlic edge, like I do, throw in a raw clove or two.
Add the juice of the lemon, a tablespoon or so of tahini, a teaspoon of salt, and maybe a couple of teaspoons of olive oil.
Process until smooth, and taste. Here's where you come in: not sharp enough? add more lemon juice. Like it a bit creamier? Add more tahini. Going to the gym tomorrow? Add more garlic.
Serve with the usual suspects -- pita or lavash or good crusty bread. And enjoy!
I promise, this weekend, I'll drop by again with some suggestions for what to do with those preserved lemons that are hiding in the back of your fridge.Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by david adam edelstein | 6:25 AM |
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Wednesday, June 01, 2005
More bacony goodness
Bacon does make everything taste better! My kids aren't that nuts about veggies, but put in some diced bacon and they're all over it. I'm working on how many recipes I can generate that call for 3 slices of bacon... we'll see!
 Lekker!
Asparagus with bacon
1-1/2 pounds asparagus 3 slices of bacon, diced 2 tablespoons oyster sauce Salt and pepper to taste
Heat a wok over very high heat (preferably a seasoned carbon steel wok). Once it's scorching hot, add the bacon and stirring, fry until almost crispy. Remove the bacon pieces with a wire spider, leaving a couple tablespoons bacon grease in the pan. Return to high heat and add the asparagus. Don't stir it right away; just let it sit to get some nice charred flavor on it, about 2-3 minutes. Stir it and let it sit again for 2-3 minutes until it has nice charred spots all over it. Add the oyster sauce and stir to combine. Add the salt and pepper (I add probably a 1-2 teaspoons salt). Add the bacon and stir to combine. Remove to a dish and serve immediately with steamed rice.Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 4:59 PM |
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Thursday, May 19, 2005
Bacon....mmmmmm.....
Giada is my absolute favorite chef on the Food Network. Here's a recipe that I cooked for Sheryl and the fam. I used farfalle pasta because it seems to grab the sauce better. Giada uses pancetta, but i substituted bacon for the pancetta and it was just as delicious. Bacon makes everything taste yummmmy.....
Pasta with Bacon and Tomato Sauce 6 ounces bacon, diced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, chopped Sea salt 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped Pinch dried crushed red pepper flakes 1 (28-ounce) can tomato puree 1 pound farfalle, or other pasta of choice 1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
Add the bacon to a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add olive oil and saute until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Add the onion and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato puree. Simmer uncovered over medium-low heat until the sauce thickens slightly and the flavors blend, about 15 minutes. Season the sauce with salt, to taste. Meanwhile, boil the farfalle in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.
Toss the farfalle with the sauce in the skillet, adding some of the reserved cooking liquid until the pasta is moist but being careful not to dilute the sauce. Toss with the cheese. Season with salt, to taste.
it's the lekkerest!!!Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by tricia cababa | 4:19 PM |
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Tuesday, May 17, 2005
Beef and Coconut: So Happy Together....
So when Norresa and I went to see Mark Bittman speak and sign books, she asked him if he likes Filipino food. He said he doesn't know a whole lot about it, but he did say, "What I've had, I've liked." So as a nod to him, here is one of his recipes "Filipino-ized".
Beef Ginataang (based on Mark Bittman's recipe for Coconut-Braised Beef)
Ginataang is a term used for many Filipino stewed dishes that include coconut, whether sweet or salty. Usually the acidic element is vinegar or even tamarind. I prefer tamarind for it's super-tangy, slightly sweet flavor. Bittman's original recipe called for lime juice, which is also very nice for Southeast Asian recipes. I've also removed the spicy element as most Filipino stews are not spicy, but largely garlicky or gingery. To be authentically Filipino, the chili powder can be removed and annato water or achuete (achiote, as it's called in Mexican cooking) can be added.
Spice paste: 6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 1 1-inch piece of ginger, either minced or grated 2 teaspoons chili powder 3 tablespoons tamarind paste (found in Asian grocery stores) 3 teaspoons salt
Other ingredients: 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 lb chuck beef, cubed 1 can of coconut milk 2 chinese eggplants cut into large pieces 1 yellow potato, cut into chunks
- Combine the spice paste ingredients in a granite mortar and pestle, or food processor and combine until it's nearly a paste texture.
- Heat oil over medium heat in a large saucepan and fry the spice paste, being careful not to burn it. Add the beef and cook, stirring until it is coated in the spice paste. Pour in the coconut milk, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer.
- After 20 or 30 minutes, add the potato. Cover and continue to simmer.
- Meanwhile, fry the eggplant in a teaspoon of oil over high heat, until it has some charred spots. Set aside.
- The meat should be tender after 2 hours, and the coconut sauce thickened. Add the eggplant and stir to keep the sauce from burning. Let the eggplant heat through and remove from heat.
This is delicioso garnished with scallions and served with white rice (jasmine, of course, for you Filipinos out there!)
 Grubbin! Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by sheryl | 12:20 AM |
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Wednesday, April 27, 2005
The joy of lemons
My friends, I'm here to talk to you today about a serious and important issue. One that is... well, OK, it's a ways short of a tragedy, but still kind of sad.
And what is this overly dramatized issue I'm slowly getting to so slowly? Simply this:
Most of you don't have preserved lemons in your kitchen.
Now, don't protest, and don't make excuses. I'm not here to hate. I'm here to love. I was one of you, once. OK, until about January of this year. But still. On to the recipe.
Preserved lemons
There are many ways to make preserved lemons. I like this one for its simplicity, and the fact that you end up with lemon-scented olive oil at the end.
5-6 lemons 1/3 cup kosher salt 1 jar big enough to hold 2 cut-up lemons, without a metal lid. See picture below for the kind of jar I use. Olive oil
Take two of the lemons and scrub them under warm water until you're confident most of the wax they're covered with is rubbed away. But not so much that you've scrubbed the yellow off, either. Remove any stem bits.
Cut those two lemons into eigths, the long way (from pole to pole, as it were), and layer them in your jar.
Squeeze three of the remaining lemons. Mix the salt in well, and pour your lemony brine on top of the sliced lemons. If it doesn't quite cover, squeeze the remaining lemon over the top.
Cover tightly. Leave on your kitchen counter for a week, turning it over and back once a day to make sure the salt is well distributed. I generally can't resist turning it a couple of times a day, but that's because I like to fuss with things.
At the end of the week, fix a critical eye on your lemons. Have the skins started to go translucent? If you're using thicker-skinned lemons, they probably haven't, and you need to give 'em a couple more days.
Once you're satisfied with your level of translucency, pour out the brine (if you like you can clean some copper with it, or at least deodorize your sink), and replace it with a decent olive oil (not the best stuff -- the lemons will overwhelm it). Now put the whole thing in the fridge. You're ready!

If you're lucky enough to have access to Meyer lemons, this is particularly nice with them. I'd only use them for the, uh, lemon part, not the brine, since that's a bit of a waste.
OK, Mr. Wise Guy... Now that you've shown me how to make them, what am I supposed to do with them?
I'm glad you asked. But, in classic cliffhanger style, I'm afraid that's going to have to wait until next time. But in the meantime, why don't you start a batch?Labels: recipes, the savory and salty
posted by david adam edelstein | 12:54 PM |
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Welcome to Sheryl's site dedicated to the humble waffle, among other sweet, savory and delicious things. I'm based in The Hague, Netherlands, and post recipes and travel (food, of course) photos. Mmmm...photos...
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