more than just waffles (which are delicious, by the way)  
 
  Friday, January 19, 2007

Maramondo becomes UglyRipe

So last summer I took a picture of these weird tomatoes at a market in Paris. I meant to find out what they were, but never bothered. Now the NY Times has told me: they are a French heirloom variety called Maramondo. A Florida variety (that was cross-bred using the Maramondo) called UglyRipe will now be marketed in the U.S., so watch for some ugly (but apparently delicious) tomatoes to hit the shelves at places like Whole Foods.


The June tomatoes that I photographed at the market in Paris

Links
NY Times: Even for a Tomato, Looks Aren't Everything
Wikipedia: UglyRipe

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posted by sheryl | 8:19 PM | comments (2)


 

SHF 27: Droste chocolate cake



This month's theme for Sugar High Friday is Chocolate by Brand. Initially I thought I would participate by making something with one of my favorite dark chocolates, Scharffen-Berger or Valrhona (since I can't get Scharffen-Berger here in Europe. Or, at least I don't know where to get it.) Here in Holland, it seems even the most common chocolate is really good. Even the local grocery store chain, Albert Heijn, has their generic house brand of chocolate produced by Callebaut, the prominent Belgian company. That said, the secret is that the French win in the chocolate department. All the worthwhile chocolate shops here seem to make their bon bons with Valrhona, a French chocolate. The Belgians may know their bon bons, but the French know their chocolate.

But the winners when it comes to cocoa are the Dutch. Know the term "Dutch cocoa"? Yep, that's right, it was actually invented here, in the 19th century by one Coenraad J. van Houten. 'Dutching' is a method in which the cocoa is processed to create a more alkaline product. (Cocoa has a naturally high level of acidity. with a pH of about 5.4.) This creates cocoa that is darker, milder and less bitter. To 'Dutch' cocoa, cocoa nibs are soaked in an alkaline solution that raises the pH level to 7. In the process, it becomes darker as well, as opposed to the 'grayer' color of non-Dutched cocoa. (Non-Dutch-processed cocoa is also referred to as 'non-alkalized'.)

The most famous of the Dutch cocoa brands is Droste. It also has the most famous branding, the nun/nurse (all I know is she is described in Dutch as verpleegster, which is nurse. I've never seen a nurse like that, but whatever.) She stands on the box, staring at you with her steely, cold blue eyes. The box on her tray also stares at you with the box's nurse's steely cold blue eyes. And on and on. (In Dutch, this visual 'infinity' effect is even known as 'The Droste effect'. Sorry, I'm a graphic designer, so I couldn't resist this piece of visual history.) I guess she's trying to hypnotize you with her chocolate drink.

But she doesn't need to hypnotize us because Droste is excellent cocoa. In my mind, it makes the best darkest, tastiest chocolate cake. Don't bother with actual chocolate in your basic American-style chocolate cake; cocoa is the way to go. (Save the good chocolate for where it'll matter, such as a flourless chocolate cake or a souffle.) Chocolate does weird stuff to the consistency and never seems to actually make a basic cake taste the most chocolatey. Cocoa on the other hand, gives intense chocolate flavor in cake without compromising the texture.

This cake I made for my son's daycare class. It's fantastic with chocolate buttercream, but for a group of 3-year-olds, I skipped the frosting and just dusted it with powdered sugar. I then filled it with a thin layer of vanilla bean buttercream. The whole thing is not too sweet-- which is just the way I like desserts. The leftovers were great with tea that afternoon.



Dark Chocolate Cake made with Droste Cocoa
adapted from The Best Recipe

For the cake:
1 cup boiling water
1/2 cup Droste cocoa
2 teaspoons espresso powder
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
12 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1-1/4 cups granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1-1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
powdered sugar, for dusting
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut out 2 parchment rounds that will fit in the bottoms of your two 8-inch cake pans. Grease the pans with butter. Place the parchment rounds in the bottoms of the pans, and grease them. Dust the pans with flour and tap out the excess.
  2. Mix the cocoa and espresso powder and pour the boiling water and mix until smooth. When it's cooled to room temperature, add the vanilla.
  3. Whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
  4. Beat butter in electric mixer set to medium-high speed about 30 seconds. Gradually add sugar and beat until the mixture is fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, beating one minute after each addition. Scrape down the bowl.
  5. With mixer on the lowest speed, add 1/3 of the flour mixture, followed immediately by 1/3 of the cocoa mixture; mix until the ingredients are almost incorporated into the batter. Repeat process twice more. Scrape down the bowl and beat for another 30 seconds.
  6. Pour the batter evenly divided into the cake pans. Bake for 20 minutes until a toothpick comes out with just a few crumbs clinging to it. Cool in the pans on wire rack for 10 minutes. Run knife to loosen cake from pans and invert cakes, peeling off parchment paper. Turn the cakes right side up and cool entirely. Prepare the frosting.

Vanilla bean buttercream:
2 large eggs
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, scraped
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 8 pieces

  1. Bring a pan of water to a simmer. Combine the eggs, sugar, vanilla bean contents and salt in bowl of standing mixer and set over the simmering water. Whisk constantly to keep the eggs from curdling. Continue whisking until the mixture is foamy and is 160 degrees on an instant read thermometer.
  2. Set the bowl in the stand mixer and beat with a whisk attachment on medium-high speed until the mixture is light and airy, about 5 minutes. Reduce speed to medium, and add butter one piece at a time until each piece is incorporated. (Keep adding the butter, even if it starts looking curdled; it'll correct itself once all the butter is added.)
  3. Frost the inside layer of the cake. You can freeze the rest of the buttercream for another recipe. (To thaw, set at room temperature until softened.)
  4. Use a paper doily or cut paper into shapes for dusting powdered sugar on the top of the cake.

Links:
SHF 27: Chocolate by Brand
Wikipedia: Droste effect

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posted by sheryl | 7:30 PM | comments (6)


 

Monday, January 15, 2007

Linzertorte with cheater's lattice



Sometimes I get obsessed. Then I feel restless until I do something about it. Over the past few days it has been creating a lattice-top for a tart. I think maybe it was spurred by seeing a really awesome looking tart in one of my favorite cookbooks, Baking With Julia. Or maybe it was all the appeltaart I've been baking lately, complete with half-assed tic-tac-toe-board-looking lattices on top. Or maybe I just want all my baked goods to somehow resemble waffles. I don't know. But I decided I had to fix this trivial problem by making the most classic of lattice-topped desserts, a linzertorte. The linzertorte (according to Wikipedia, where I lazily do all my research) is generally considered "the oldest cake in the world". Yeah, I guess, if a cake looked like a pie. But whatever. After baking it for friends this weekend, I realized that a linzertorte has other things going for it, namely, the amazing smell it gives off while baking. It's all spicey and cinnamony and buttery, and there is not a Yankee damn candle in the world that can duplicate it. I decided before it even came out of the oven that I would be making this tart again, even if it tasted like cat food. But thankfully, it was delicious too (especially with vanilla whipped cream), which gave it that extra advantage as a keeper recipe.

But back to the lattice. I wanted something that didn't just smell good and taste good. I wanted to make it look good, like one of those pies in the cartoons that would be cooling on the windowsill until a hobo came by and stole it. So this meant making a proper lattice. What I realized is that the trick to making a proper lattice top is to not make it properly at all. I always thought I would have to weave the strips like a basket, in which case they start falling apart and before you know it, you have a disaster of little square dough pieces. The fakey lattice has a design that starts with a giant 'X' in the middle, and the rest of the strips positioned around it. (See my photo of the completed tart, since I was bad about documenting it as I was working.) Sneaky you-- no one will be the wiser! And to make things even easier, cut the dough into strips and freeze the strips for 20 minutes and you won't have any melting or frustrating tears, followed by you in frustrated tears.

Linzertorte
adapted from Cooks Illustrated with modifications
makes one 9-inch tart

Ingredients
For the dough:
1/2 cup toasted almonds (40 grams)
1 cup toasted walnuts (about 100 grams)
1/2 cup sugar (100 grams)
zest from 1 lemon
1 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour (150 grams)
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (175 grams), cut into 1/2 cubes
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the filling:
3/4 cup raspberry preserves (about 300 grams)
1 tablespoon juice from a lemon

Glaze:
1 tablespoon cream




  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Cut a round of parchment paper to fit the removable base. Place in the tart pan and butter the parchment paper as well.
  2. Combine the walnuts, almonds, sugar and salt in a food processor and process until finely ground. Add the lemon zest and process just a bit more, until combined.
  3. Turn the mixture into a large bowl and add the flour, allspice and cinnamon. Cut the butter into the flour mixture with a pastry knife until it resembles coarse meal. Whisk the egg and vanilla together and add to the flour mixture. Use your hand to combine until the dough comes together.
  4. Turn the dough onto some cling wrap and divide into three equal pieces. Combine two of the pieces into a single ball, flatten into a 5-inch disk, wrap in cling wrap and place in the refrigerator.
  5. Place the third piece on the tart pan bottom (which is lined in the parchment paper), cover with a piece of cling wrap and roll out the dough until it is the size of the tart pan bottom. Remove the cling wrap and place the tart bottom in the tart pan. Place on a baking sheet, prick holes into the dough with a fork and bake the tart bottom for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool to room temperature. (This prebaking keeps the bottom of the tart from getting soggy when the filling is added.)
  6. For the filling, mix together the raspberry preserves with the lemon juice and set aside until needed.
  7. Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Now to make the sides of the tart. Break off one-third of it and with your hands roll it into a rope about 3/8-inches in diameter. Press it into the sides of the tart pan (the dough is very forgiving) until you have the sides all the way around.
  8. Set the remainder of the dough onto parchment paper. Roll the dough into a 9-inch square, approximately. Cut into strips that are 3/4-inches wide. You should have at least 10 strips. (You'll probably have extra just in case.) Slide the parchment paper with the dough on it onto a baking sheet, cover loosely with a sheet of parchment and freeze for 20 minutes.
  9. Spread the preserves mixture evenly onto the tart.
  10. Take the dough strips out of the freezer and invert. Carefully remove the dough strips as you are making the lattice on the top of the tart. Start with an 'X' in the middle, and alternate the strips around it to create the lattice pattern.
  11. Brush with heavy cream. Place the tart on a baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes. Cool on wire rack for 1 hour and serve with vanilla whipped cream.


Instructions for creating the lattice pattern. Just overlay the strips in the order above.

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posted by sheryl | 1:56 PM | comments (4)


 

Friday, January 12, 2007

Can of goodness

The NY Times ran a story on one of my obsessions, dulce de leche, the other week. I finally got up the nerve to do the can-of-condensed-milk-boiled-til-it-turns-into-caramel trick. This is even though the story started with an account of an exploding can of condensed milk-- which has been my fear whenever I've thought about doing it. But no matter. Now I had a set of easy instructions and honestly, since having a baby, I don't have time or patience to stand around and stir a saucepan of cajeta for an hour. The can method is just as time consuming, but a lot less maintenance. I wouldn't recommend leaving the house while it's simmering away though-- unless you like the idea of caramel-colored walls in your kitchen.

Can o' dulce de leche
adapted from the New York Times

Ingredients:
1 can sweetened condensed milk, label removed

Set the can of condensed milk in a large saucepan or stockpot and cover with water by at least an inch. Bring the water to a boil and reduce heat until just simmering. Simmer for 3-4 hours, making sure that the water always covers the can entirely. (I'm assuming that it is the change in pressure if the can is not completely covered that would cause it to explode.). Remove from heat and allow the can to cool for at least an hour before opening.


Use it to top something, or better yet, just eat it straight out the can. Classy!

Links:
Crispywaffle: Cajeta, documented
NY Times: Got leche?

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posted by sheryl | 10:41 AM | comments (3)


 

Friday, January 05, 2007

Appeltaart: apple pie, Dutch stylie

Although this is a post from long ago, I decided it's just the thing for SHF 34: Going Local. Enjoy!

I hate to admit it, but I don't really like apple pie. I don't care how American it is. Basically, I have worked on apple pie to make it so I would like it: I perfected a butter crust, I took away all that cinnamon that usually takes over the filling (this is an improvement-- I use copious amounts of vanilla instead), and tinkered with the type of apple used. I managed to make improvements but never got around to really liking it, so on top of all that, I smother it with vanilla ice cream.

But then I met appeltaart. Appeltaart and coffee is like, practically an afternoon ritual in Holland. This is basically the Dutch version of apple pie, and it is totally Dutch in so many ways. It is totally practical; it's not pretty, like a French tart tatin. And it's basically designed to go with coffee-- and let me tell you, the Dutch? They love their coffee, man. So it has a few things going for it. But for me, what makes all the difference in the world is the crust. Rather than a traditional American style pie crust, appeltaart typically has a sugary shortbread-like crust. The filling typically has apples, huge amounts of cinnamon (again) and raisins (ickers). Because of these filling flaws, I set out to make my own appeltaart. Recipes vary hugely, much more, it seems than with American apple pie recipes. But after a lot of trial and error (such as recipes that called for self-rising flour, and one that called for zero liquid in the crust dough!) I think I've come up with the right combination. I added a bit of orange zest to the crust because I had mandarin oranges on hand, and was just like, "What the hey? Let's try this..." Turns out the taste is excellent with the apples. Serve this with sweetened whipped cream and you won't think the same way about apple pie again.

Dutch Appeltaart
makes one 9-inch taart

For the crust:
2 cups all-purpose flour (300 grams)
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar (150 grams)
zest from one mandarin orange
1 teaspoon salt
12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter (about 175 grams), cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 egg
1 slice white bread, processed into breadcrumbs in a food processor

For the filling:
2 pounds apples (I like Granny Smith for its texture and tartness)
4 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla


The dough before it goes into the fridge.
  1. Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper. Combine the flour, brown sugar, orange zest and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and cut it into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. (Alternatively, use a food processor.) Stir in the egg with a fork, then use your hands to knead the mixture until it resembles, well, a ball of dough. Flatten the dough into a 6-inch disk, wrap in cling wrap and place in refrigerator for at least an hour.
  2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll out 3/4 of the dough between two sheets of cling wrap to about a 13-inch circle (set aside the other 1/4 of the dough for the top of the tart). Set it into the springform pan. Don't worry if it tears; the dough is really forgiving, so just pat it into the bottom and sides of the pan. Scatter the breadcrumbs along the bottom of the tart crust. Place it into the refrigerator while preparing the filling.
  3. Core and peel the apples. Divide each apple into 16 slices. (Place the apples in a bowl of ice water so they don't turn brown.) Drain the apple slices and combine with the cornstarch, salt, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla.
  4. Roll out the remaining crust dough into strips to create a lattice-like top. (Don't worry about making it perfect-- it'll sort of 'melt' in the oven anyway.)
  5. Place the apple mixture (but make sure not to include the accumulated liquid) into the tart crust and lay the lattice-dough-strips on top.
  6. Bake in preheated oven for 50 minutes. Remove and cool on a cooling rack-- once it's cooled to room temperature, remove the springform sides. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.


Ready to go in the oven...


Not pretty... but delish!

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posted by sheryl | 6:41 PM | comments (4)


 

 

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