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Monday, June 25, 2007
SHF: Chocolate malt, perfected
 My retro craving: notice that the straw stands up straight.
I like the theme of this month's Sugar High Fridays: Cravings. There are desserts I make a lot (like brownies because they are ridiculously easy and you get your chocolate and sugar fix instantly), and then there are others that if a craving hits me, I will run out -- meaning, I will make a special trip -- and get the ingredients.
Once the weather hits the no-long-sleeves point every summer, the first thing I want is a chocolate malt. I grew up in Milwaukee, where the fave frozen confection is frozen custard, a softer version of ice cream, and fattier than gelato. Man, it is soooo good. I honestly don't know why they don't have this stuff all over the U.S. (I am partial to Kopps-- this is where I would get my turtle sundae fix as a kid.) Chocolate malts are alive and well in the Midwest, like, real chocolate malts where: 1) it is so thick the straw stands up, and 2) they always, always give you the tin with the extra malt in it that was used in the shake blender. You know, because it's not fattening enough just to have the malt that's in the glass, right?
So where I live now (Europe) chocolate malts are non-existent, so I make my own. This way, I can also take total charge of the ingredients, so I'll use ice cream and chocolate syrup I made. And, of course, Horlicks malt powder which thankfully I can get at the British expat store. Don't use that Carnation stuff, which is super sweet and has chocolate powder in it and whatnot. Horlicks can be found, oddly enough, in a lot of Asian grocery stores. This is the stuff that will make you an addict. Oh, speaking of, as a kid I ate a lot of the Horlicks malt tablets, which were a type of candy. I cannot find this stuff anywhere! I wonder if anyone else craves this-- I know I didn't imagine it because my sister remembers them too.
There are purists who believe that chocolate malts should be made with vanilla ice cream, obtaining their chocolate flavor from just the syrup. I don't care either way; but I personally prefer it with vanilla ice cream just because it seems to taste like just the right ratio of chocolate to malt. Plus there's something about the chocolate that comes from a syrup that gives it that kitschy, retro soda fountain taste. (I don't know how else to explain it. But anyway, a premium, super chocolate ice cream is not going to get you that same nostalgic taste I'm talking about!)
So make a classic chocolate malt -- you won't be disappointed, even if you make it with store-bought vanilla and Hershey's syrup. For the love of Mike, don't use ice cubes. But make sure to use the Horlicks.
My ideal chocolate malt makes one large malt, or two short ones, if you want to share
Ingredients 3 scoops vanilla ice cream (my recipe for Philadelphia-style is here) 2 tablespoons chocolate syrup (recipe below) 1/2 cup whole milk (very very cold-- keep it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so) 3 tablespoons Horlicks malt powder
- Pour the ingredients into a blender and pulse for 20-30 seconds.
- Top with whipped cream and if you want to go seriously classic, a maraschino cherry.
Chocolate syrup I really like this chocolate syrup because it is not too sweet, but is still really chocolatey. I find commercial chocolate syrup too sugary. You can also use a tablespoon of this in a cup of hot milk to make quick hot chocolate. Ingredients 1 cup water 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons vanilla extract - Combine the water and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk until the sugar has dissolved and bring to a slight simmer.
- Add the cocoa and salt and whisk until smooth. Simmer lightly for about 3 minutes.
- Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Let cool to room temperature. Keep in the refrigerator.
Links: Domestic Goddess: Sugar High Friday Wikipedia: Horlicks Crispy Waffle: Vanilla bean ice cream Crispy Waffle: Super chocolatey ice cream Kopps Frozen Custard
Labels: recipes, the chocolatey, the sweet
posted by sheryl | 9:17 AM |
comments (6)
Saturday, June 16, 2007
EBBP #7: Loot update
So I got an updated package from The Passionate Cook and man, was it a loot box full of goodies! My kids almost fainted when they saw all the sweets, and I had to photograph it instantly because once they got their paws on it, it would have been impossible to list everything that was included. So here's what we got:
- Manner neopolitan wafers
- Kokos-Rollen coconut candy
- Peppermint candies filled with chocolate-- weird, but good!
- Hazelnut creme wafers (I love that she included so many waffle treats!)
- Pez, that my kids attacked immediately. I had no idea that Pez came from Austria!
- 'Weiner gebak' sugar candies
- Dragee Keksi chocolate candies
- Maoam gummies
- Manner caramels
- Banana jellies covered in chocolate
- Bonbons flavored in pina colada and coconut-rum (these were boozy and delish!)
Whew! I think that's all. It felt like Halloween at our house! My computer is acting freaky so I can't post the picture I took, but I will add the photo once I work out my techie problemas.
posted by sheryl | 9:08 AM |
comments (1)
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Super Chocolate

After I wrecked the freezer bowl on my Krups ice cream maker, I decided to get serious and spring for an ice cream maker with a compressor. This basically translates into an ice cream maker with its own freezer, so you can make ice cream whenever you want. After some research, I ended up with a Nemox Gelatissimo, which looks like some sort of miniature toilet. Yes, not the most attractive thing to have hogging up precious space on the kitchen counter.
 Nemox Gelatissimo. Does it flush?
Anyway, it ended up being 220 euros which is a pretty good deal as this seems to usually go for about 400 euros. It seems like I'll have to make more than a few ice cream cones to make up for the cost, but hey, I have kids that loooove ice cream. Plus I can make all my weirdo flavors like corn, avocado, etc. that you can't get at the ice cream joint around the corner.
So now I am totally obsessed and have been making ice cream nearly every day. So I'm learning a lot-- I'm trying to perfect the texture, which is a much harder thing to do than get the flavorings and sweetness right. Ice cream is all about texture. So some things I've learned so far:
- Too much butterfat will taste like, well, butterfat. Some Italian machines, like Simac, Nemox, etc. will churn a super fatty mixture into basically, butter. So a good balance of milk and cream is necessary.
- Custard ice cream bases are soooo much smoother. I do like Philadelphia-style (which basically means eggless ice cream) for a basic vanilla, but in most cases, I prefer a custard that starts with egg yolks. This makes the mixture really smooth, as it is an emulsion you are starting with.
- Sugar does more than just make it sweet. Sugar also helps improve texture-- it prevents the mixture from getting too icy, and lowers the freezing point. If you are like me and are curious about food science, you can get your fill about ice cream science here. Because I live in Holland, I have access to this weird form of sugar called white basterd sugar (yes, it really is called basterd sugar, although spelled differently than, I don't know, Fat Bastard). I guess we can call this Sweet Basterd. So this Sweet Basterd is a sugar that is basically the texture of brown sugar, but white. Because it partially contains inverted sugar syrup, it makes for a 'chewier' ice cream, and this type of sweetener behaves a bit like corn syrup-- it depresses the freezing point even further. (Yes, food science again! I have to experiment with white basterd sugar for other goods that need 'chew', such as brownies. More on this later!)
 White basterd sugar-- it looks a bit like shave ice, and it feels exactly like traditional brown sugar.
With these things to remember, I've been working on the perfect custard (for me, at least). I'm not there yet, but I have been able to develop my go-to chocolate ice cream recipe. This is way over the top on the chocolate, but without being too fatty; I use more milk than cream in this recipe. Try it if you want total chocolate flavor without it being too sweet. I have been making ice cream and then letting it sit in the freezer for 2 hours before we eat it. I think it hardens up too much (our freezer is 15 degrees centigrade) past that point, but 2 hours in, the texture is that perfect chewy, a bit melty, gelato-y texture. (In the picture above, it had been in the freezer for 4-5 hours, so you can see that it has gotten more of that American style hard-scoop texture. But it was still good!) Super Chocolatey Ice Cream makes approximately 1 quart Ingredients 1-3/4 cups whole milk 1/4 cup Dutch-process cocoa, such as Droste 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 large egg yolks 1/2 cup white basterd sugar (if you don't have access to this, substitute 1/3 cup white granulated sugar) 3/4 cup heavy cream 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 2 teaspoons vodka (optional) - Combine the eggs and the sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer. Beat on medium-high speed until the mixture is lightened in color, and thickened, about 3 minutes.
- In a heavy saucepan, bring the milk and salt to a simmer, whisk in the cocoa and simmer until the cocoa is dissolved.
- Add the milk mixture to the egg mixture slowly, in a steady stream, whisking the whole time -- this tempers the eggs and keeps them from curdling. Place the milk/egg mixture back in the saucepan.
- Over low heat, stir the mixture constantly, until it reaches 180 degrees F. Pour through a strainer into a clean bowl.
- Place the chopped chocolate in a bowl. Bring the cream just barely to a boil in a saucepan and pour it over the chocolate. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir with a whisk until the mixture is totally smooth, with no chocolate pieces.
- Pour the ganache into the custard. Refrigerate until cold, then freeze in an ice cream maker according to instructions.
Links: Slate: Which machines whip up the best ice cream? Crispy Waffle: When life hands you vanilla, make ice cream UG Dairy Science and Technology: Structure of Ice Cream Labels: recipes, the chocolatey, the sweet
posted by sheryl | 6:25 PM |
comments (7)
Monday, June 04, 2007
European Blogging By Post (EBBP#7)

I participated for the first time in European Blogging by Post, hosted by The Passionate Cook. The concept goes like this: you put together a box of goodies to send to another food blogger, and in return, you get a box of goodies from someone else. What an awesome idea! I loved the theme this time around too: childhood sweets. So my lucky recipient will get a bunch of Asian kid sweets from me. (Other Asian-Americans out there-- remember Botan Rice Candy? Pocky? I loved that stuff!)
My package came the other day, and it was from The Passionate Cook herself! She is travelling in Italy, so she explained in the note that this is just a preliminary package-- but it had some great stuff nonetheless!
- She was in Austria as a kid, so Milka Zartherb was the childhood sweets theme
- A nice chocolate lolly
- A cute honey spoon that my kids went bonkers over
- Tea and honey
- Homemade spiced plum and orange preserves (this is totally delish!)

Links The Passionate Cook: European Blogging by Post #7
posted by sheryl | 6:36 PM |
comments (3)
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