more than just waffles (which are delicious, by the way)  
 
  Monday, May 28, 2007

Four ingredients = Tomato mozzarella tart



My friend Deb brought over some really nice plum tomatoes from our excellent (and huge!) market right here in Den Haag. They were so sweet, and I also had some cherry tomatoes from our vegetable subscription, so I had to make something that featured them. Salad? Too boring. I ended up making something just as easy: a tomato mozzarella tart that, besides the tomatoes, uses only three other ingredients that anyone might have on hand: fresh mozzarella, basil and frozen puff pastry. (I'm not counting olive oil or salt and pepper as ingredients though!)

One rule though: you gotta have good tomatoes, so none of those icky pink winter hothouse tomatoes here-- only the real deal will do.

Tomato mozzarella tart
adapted from Cooks Illustrated
makes one 9 x 13 tart

Ingredients
1 pound box of frozen puff pastry, thawed in refrigerator overnight
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, drained and sliced
1 pound ripe tomatoes
a handful of basil leaves, chopped

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Set parchment paper on a 13 x 9 baking sheet. Lay out the puff pastry, pressing down to seal the seams between the sheets. Cut 1-inch strips of pastry to make a frame around the tart, brushing with egg or water between the layers. Bake for 15 minutes or until puffed and golden brown.
  2. Remove tart shell from oven and cool on a cooling rack. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees F.
  3. Slice the tomatoes into rounds and set in a single layer over paper towels. Sprinkle liberally with salt and allow to sit for 30 minutes.
  4. Press down on the tomatoes with more paper towel, absorbing some of the moisture (this will prevent the tart from becoming too soggy).
  5. Place the cheese in a single layer on the pastry crust. Place the tomatoes in a single layer on top of the cheese. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Drizzle olive oil over the whole thing.
  6. Bake for 15-17 minutes. Sprinkle the basil over the tart. Cool on a cooling rack for a few minutes, transfer to cutting board or serving dish and serve warm or at room temperature.

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posted by sheryl | 2:15 PM | comments (1)


 

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

R to the izzo


Dried porcini mushrooms

While in Bergamo, Italy, I bought some local dried porcini mushrooms as recommended by our friend Donatella. (An aside: let me tell you-- it is soooo nice travelling with someone local to ask all the questions and tell you where to go! And she knows her food, so that's an added bonus.) I brought them home and what's the natural thing to do with them? Make risotto, of course.

Some notes: Risotto is usually stirred constantly while cooking. I've found that this doesn't necessarily have to be the case (although maybe some like the arm workout.) I add the first couple cups of stock straightaway, cover, and let it simmer away for eight minutes or so, until the stock is mostly absorbed. This way, it's off to a rockin start, and you just have to do the stir-and-add-stock for the last ten minutes of cooking or so. Plus, you can make a salad and slice up some bread in the meantime.

If you have a risotto method that you already like-- go for it. Just because I'm lazy doesn't mean you have to follow me!


Risotto with dried porcini mushrooms
4-5 servings

Ingredients
30 grams dried porcini mushrooms
5 cups chicken stock
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, minced
1/2 cup red wine
2 teaspoons sea salt
1-3/4 cups arborio rice
A small handful of fresh sage leaves, minced
Grana Padano, for grating

  1. Soak the porcini mushrooms in 1 cup of hot water for 30 minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid. Add the soaking liquid to the chicken stock. Chop the mushrooms very fine.
  2. Place the stock in a medium saucepan over low heat. Make sure it's on the burner next to the one you'll be using for the risotto. The stock will stay over the low heat as you cook the risotto.
  3. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Melt the butter and add the shallots, sauteing them until they are soft, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and continue stirring and cooking for a minute or two.
  4. Add the mushrooms and wine. Stir until the liquid is mostly absorbed.
  5. Add 2 cups stock and the salt, bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the liquid is mostly absorbed, 8-10 minutes.
  6. Uncover, add 1/2 cup stock and stir until, again, mostly absorbed. Continue adding the stock in 1/2 cup increments until its finished. The mixture should be quite creamy, but the rice will still have just a hint of chew. Taste for salt.
  7. Sprinkle the sage over the rice and pass the cheese for grating.

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posted by sheryl | 8:35 AM | comments (0)


 

Monday, May 21, 2007

SHF 31: Caramelize!

I've decided to submit this recipe for SHF 31: Neutral Territory. The theme is sweets in shades of white. To be honest, I rarely make desserts that don't involve some form of chocolate (hey, I have a house full of chocolate addicts!) but this is one of my current favorite, creamy white desserts. Plus, what's whiter than coconut and cream?

A couple of weeks ago I found unsweetened shredded coconut at the Asian grocery store. This was a big deal because 1) I wasn't sure I could get it here, without shredding it myself, and 2) it was hella cheap. A bag the size of say, a box of cereal was 1.65 euro. So I bought half that-- it was 80 cents -- and I still have a huge plastic container of it. As a result of this bounty, I decided to work on coconut cream pie.

I inserted coconut into every element of the pie: the crust, the custard, and I put toasted coconut on the top. I usually dislike American coconut cream pie because it is made with sweetened coconut flakes (gross) and it doesn't taste much like real coconut. Rather, as Cooks Illustrated put it, it tastes more like suntan lotion. (Not that I eat suntan lotion, but you know what I mean!)

The resulting tart tasted sooo good and coconut-y, but I decided I wanted to totally put this over the top. And what's more over the top than adding caramel? So first, I added dulce de leche to the custard itself. This turned out okay, but not great. What was really strange was that this version came out tasting like Girl Scout Samoas cookies for some reason, even though there was no chocolate. Tasty, but not like, 'wow' tasty.

I then was like, "Why not just set the caramel over the crust, then put the custard over it?" This simplified things because if you have caramel or dulce de leche on hand (as I usually do- yeah, that's right) then all you have to do is heat it a bit and pour it over the crust without the annoyance of adding it to the custard. Voila! This was the over-the-top tart that I was looking for, and our dinner friends, Vanja, Ruth and Rachel approved (and requested the recipe, so here you go!)



Coconut caramel cream tart
makes one 9-inch tart

Ingredients

For the coconut shortbread crust:
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (115 grams)
2 tablespoons grated coconut (NOT the sweetened kind!)
1/4 cup sugar (25 grams)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 stick butter (110 grams), cold, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 egg yolk

For the filling:
1/2 cup dulce de leche, cajeta or caramel
1 can coconut milk (a 14 oz. or 400 gram can)
1 cup milk (240 ml)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup grated coconut (50 grams) (the same unsweetened kind as above)
1/4 teaspoon salt
5 large egg yolks
1/4 cup cornstarch (30 grams)
1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the topping (this is optional; I personally like the tart without whipped cream, but most people I know prefer it with the cream):
1 cup cold heavy cream
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons grated unsweetened coconut, toasted in a dry pan until brown



  1. Preparing the shortbread crust: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (180 degrees centigrade.) Butter a 9-inch tart pan or springform pan. (If using a springform pan, you can also line the bottom with parchment paper, then butter the parchment paper.) Combine the flour, coconut, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter, and using a pastry cutter, cut the butter into the mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add the egg yolk and bring the mixture together with your hand until it forms a ball.
  2. Pat the crust in the prepared pan. (It is a soft crumbly crust, so I've found that unless it is refrigerated for several hours, it is almost impossible to roll out.) Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork. Bake for 15-17 minutes, until the crust is golden but not totally brown. Set on a cooling rack and cool to room temperature.
  3. The caramel: Warm the caramel a little and add a bit of water (if needed) to give it the consistency of honey. Pour the caramel on the cooled shortbread crust and tilt the crust so the caramel covers the entire bottom of the crust. Cool to room temperature.
  4. The custard: Bring the coconut milk, milk, shredded coconut, sugar and salt to a slight simmer in a medium saucepan.
  5. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, cornstarch and 1 tablespoon sugar together. Slowly pour the warm milk mixture over the eggs, whisking the entire time (this tempers the eggs).
  6. Transfer the mixture back to the saucepan. Stirring with a spoon or whisk, bring the mixture to a boil and boil for 1 full minute. Remove from heat and add the vanilla and butter. Stir until the vanilla is incorporated.
  7. Transfer immediately to the pie crust and smooth the surface. Cover with cling wrap directly touching the custard. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
  8. The topping: Refrigerate or freeze your mixing bowl and beaters for a half hour or so. Meanwhile, toast the coconut in a dry skillet over medium heat until golden brown. Set aside to cool.
  9. Just before serving, place the cream and sugar in the mixing bowl and beat over medium-high speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, spread over the top of the tart. Sprinkle with toasted coconut and serve immediately.

Links:
Crispy waffle: Dulce de leche recipe
Crispy waffle: Cajeta recipe

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posted by sheryl | 1:15 PM | comments (5)


 

Tuesday, May 08, 2007

Milan and Bergamo, Italy


Doorknocker in Cittá Alta, Bergamo

We spent the other week in Bergamo, Italy, which is 45 kilometers outside of Milan. It was excellent to visit our friends Donatella and John and their daughter (who is good friends with my daughter), catch up, sightsee, and of course, eat.


This is what I'm still dreaming about. When we were in Milan, Donatella took us to an unassuming little bakery called Luini where they have a classic version of Italian street food: panzerotti. It is basically a yeast-risen dough, filled with mozzerella and tomato, then fried til crispy. It is so simple and unassuming. And yet, I am totally obsessed with it.


And, as you can see by this line, I'm not the only one obsessed with it.


We spent most of our time in Bergamo, where one famed local dish is casoncelli alla bergamasca. It is a pasta stuffed with meat, folded into half moons, then served in a butter, bacon and sage sauce. Oh, and then topped with Parmesan cheese. Okay, how can you go wrong: pasta? butter? bacon? For the love of Mario Batali, this was so delish, we had it at least three times.


The town is also famous for the confection called polenta e osei, a spongecake typically filled with apricot jam, rolled in sugar, and topped with a tiny chocolate bird. This is meant to resemble polenta, which is an essential Lombardian staple dish.

Donatella is a wonderful cook, so she made us risotto alla milanese, so simple and delish, and then an excellent shrimp dish with saffron. We ate way too much pizza. Yes, it is not overrated: pizza in Italy is way, way better than pizza anywhere else. It was like, every time I had pizza it was better than any pizza I've ever eaten. That's saying something!

Oh yeah, and ice cream: We naturally had ice cream every day, but the two best gelaterie that we went to were Grom in Milan and Verderosa in Bergamo. Both use organic ingredients and are artigianale, which means all-natural ingredients and made on site.

I was too distracted by the lines and the deliciousness of the gelato at Verderosa to snap any pictures, otherwise I would have tried to participate in Ms Adventures in Italy's Tour del Gelato.


The baby snacking on what's left of a cone outside of Gelateria Verderosa in Bergamo


The kids at the Piazza Santa Ana (with the little guy rocking-- what's that?-- a Crispy Waffle shirt!)


Lions at the fountain, Piazza Vecchia, Bergamo

I came back armed with dried porcini mushrooms, so next post: mushroom risotto!

Links
Gelateria Grom
Ms Adventures in Italy: Tour del Gelato

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posted by sheryl | 8:43 PM | comments (5)


 

Sunday, May 06, 2007

Gelateria Grom

The NY Times had an interesting article on Grom, a northern Italy-based gelato company that will be opening its first shop in NYC. Interesting to me, that is, probably because we were just in Milan this past week and happened to eat ice cream at Grom (which was delicious of course). I noticed that Grom had a 'Slow Food' stamp of approval on their door, and I'd probably describe the gelato as super-tasty-delish.


The little guy chows down on gelato in Milan. (His favorite flavor? Fiordilatte.)

I guess in NYC a medium cone will cost $5.75(!) according to the article. At least we were in Italy, where the real deal costs far less (and there's good ice cream on practically every corner.

Speaking of ice cream, I think I'm going to invest in a proper ice cream maker. I've used a typical freezer-bowl Krups model for years (and gallons of ice cream). It's served me well, but by cramming it into my Euro freezer drawers, I've messed up the freezer bowl and the top doesn't snap on anymore. So it's time to get a serious compressor-style maker (i.e. one that has its own freezer so I don't have to freeze the bowl overnight anymore). I'll update once I have one and make a batch of my fave vanilla.

Oh, and of course I will post more on Lombardy, Italy, where my daughter was visiting her good friend who just moved there from Seattle. Donatella and John (her parents) were fantastic hosts and we got to try some delish regional specialties. More soon!

Links
NY Times: 2 Turin Gelato Men, Hoping New York Will Melt
Crispy Waffle: Vanilla Vanilla Ice Cream
Grom website

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posted by sheryl | 7:38 PM | comments (0)


 

 

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